Replacing the fuel tank AIR filter

Re: Fuel Tank Air Filter / Fuel Filter

crhbobby said:

Hi everyone...

I pulled the recommended maintenance schedule from Hyundai USAs website.

It says at 30K to have change the fuel tank air filter and at 37500 to change the fuel filter. For the V6...

Has anyone changed these themselves? I don't think I have seen much discussion anyone changing these..

Bob Hall

Click to expand...

I finally got around to replacing my fuel tank AIR filter today. It's a bit of a PITA, but not too bad if you don't mind hanging over the trunk sill while you're working. If you want to be more comfortable, you can pull the rear seat back out.

Step 1 - Remove the carpet from the trunk. You'll see a styrofoam pad. Remove the two plastic nuts (they were just hand tight on my car) and remove the pad (see photo 1)

Step 2 - You'll see a retangular access panel. Remove the ten 10mm bolts and remove the panel (see photo 2)

Step 3 - Disconnect the electrical connection from the solonoid valve, disconnect the hose from the charcoal canister, and remove the 10mm retaining bolt (see photo 3)

Step 4 - Disconnect the hose from the fuel tank air filter. Note: it's possible, but not easy, to disconnect it from inside the trunk. Its easier if you do it from under the car. Look for the hose and the filter just above the differential (see photo 4). You could do this before Step 3 above, but it was Step 4 for me when I realized what a pain it was to try and disconnect the hose while I was in the trunk.

Step 5 - Remove the fuel tank air filter. Note: you'll need to wriggle it around a bit to get the valve and hose clear (photo 5 shows how things look with the filter out. You can see the hose that was disconnected from under the car. It doesn't pull up into the trunk area very far. If you've got small hands, you can probably work it from inside the trunk to get it disconnected. Otherwise, just jack up the car, put it on stands, and crawl underneath. It's a LOT easier.)

Step 6 - Remove the two 10mm bolts that mount the solonoid valve and hose to the fuel tank air filter (see photo 6)

Step 7 - Remove the rubber grommet and metal sleeve from the fuel tank air filter (see photo 7)

Installation is the reverse of the above steps.

I don't know why they call for a fuel tank air filter change at 30K? Photo 8 shows the old and new filters side-by-side. I'll let you guess which one is which. The old filter looked brand spanking new to me. Overall it took about an hour to do the job. Now that I know what I'm doing, I could probably do it in 25-30 minutes.

Hope this helps folks

Can someone post the Hyundai part number for the fuel tank air filter? Thanks!

Philth said:

Can someone post the Hyundai part number for the fuel tank air filter? Thanks!

Click to expand...

Try this pic on found Part number shows on filte bag.

EDIT - Something is jacked up, because I checked the pic earlier and I was able to expand/enhance, but now I can't.

The part number should be 31453 3M100, but just in case I'm wrong i'd feel better to post the pic larger this time.

OK - Just confirmed with the sites below, but they show for the 4.6L, I'm not sure if this works with the 3.8L???? They probably use the same filter, but I would confirm from the store you purchase from 1st to ensure.

http://www.oehyundaiparts.com/oem-p...sion-system/vapor-canister/filter/31453-3m100

http://www.hyundaipartssource.com/o...ion-system/emission-system/filter/31453-3m100

I cant expand the pic. Maybe just post the part number?

According to the website below the same model number filter is used on the 3.8 Coupe and Sedan as the 4.6L. See my corrections above....

http://www.oehyundaiparts.com/oem-p...ion-system/emission-system/filter/31453-3m100

Thanks! I found it in the 3.8L Sedan section. Same part number: 31453-3M100

Well, I finally got around to my second replacement of the fuel tank air filter. You'll find my step-by-step instructions posted back on 4/28/2012. I'm happy to report that I completed the filter replacement in about 30 minutes this time.

I had noted back then that the old filter did not look like it was even dirty when I looked through the hole, and I mentioned that the next time I did a filter replacement, I'd cut the old filter open and see what I found.

The attached photos are of the "New" and "Old" filter looking into the hole. As you can see, there is little difference in color. I then cut the old one open and found that the airflow is from the port on the side of the filter (the port that is accessed from under the car) to the port that goes to the charcoal canister.

As you can see from the "Back" photo, the filter is not all that dirty. The "Front" side is perfectly white. I banged it against my work bench on a white sheet of paper to see what came out and there was virtually nothing.

I also tried blowing through the new and old filters to see if there was an appreciable difference in flow resistance, but there was none that I could discern.

Other posters have noted that the filter paper in their old filter looked brown when they looked through the hole. I'm wondering if their filter used a brown colored filter paper or if something had so thoroughly "gunked up" the other side that it turned the filter paper brown?

HI
This has been up for lots of discussion with the dealership. They now do not advocate replacing the fuel tank air filter but the Canister Close Valve (CCV) instead. It seems to be a little bit easier. I am going to attempt it soon.

I think that dealers don't want their techs spending the time to replace the fuel tank air filter. It does need to be replaced as any air filter does. It traps dirt and in time will stop air flow.

I was going to add to this that I was able to move the filter slightly sideways to get the clamp on the left hose that goes under the trunk sheetmetal. I did not have to go under the car. Reinstallation was the same way. Thanks for the DIY instructions.