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Sedan Subwoofer install

Nabber

Been here awhile...
Joined
Nov 30, 2008
Messages
260
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Genesis Model Year
2025
Genesis Model Type
Genesis GV80
What would you guys guess an install would cost to add a sub in the trunk (including labor)? I'm too old to justify anything really expensive but would like a decent speaker and amp. TIA!
 
Its very difficult to tell what kind of output (RCA or low level) that you could even use to tie into an aftermarket amp/sub.

You find the V8 with Tech stereo not to your liking in terms of the bass?
 
What would you guys guess an install would cost to add a sub in the trunk (including labor)? I'm too old to justify anything really expensive but would like a decent speaker and amp. TIA!

Honestly I haven't purchased an amp and subs in years, but the price seems pretty reasonable now days. I have a 600W Jenson (yes, I know) amp that sucks and is 4 channel, so is terrible for using for subs. It should be used for other purposes, but has done ok for a long time. I will be replacing the amp in the spring. My friend just bought a new amp for his car and it was only $200 bones and blows my amp out of the water in terms of quality and power delivery.

Can't wait to get one.

I've noticed on this car that it's soooo well insulated (as well all know:D) that the bass has a tough time traveling through the rear seat etc. It doesn't help that the rear seat doesn't fold down, but I'm fine with that.

A decent not too expensive sub would work just fine, I just would not go too cheap such as an "off brand", but I would make sure you get a decent amp and run the sub/s into 1 channel.
 
It really depends what you want to do. I would assume you are looking to just strenghten the bottom end at bit. So what I would do is look on Crutchfield.com and look at their subs and amps. They also have some nice "combos" that include the amp, sub and enclosure.

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_10912PACK/JBL-Grand-Touring-Series-Bass-Pack.html?tp=442

Install really shouldn't be too bad. The battery is in the trunk so power connections are a snap. The only wire you need to run (through the car) is up to the fuse panel so the amp can turn on/off with the ignition. The tricky part will be a getting an input signal to the amp. They make a speaker level to line level converter so I would purchase one of those (inexpensive) and use the signal going to the factory sub.

I can't imagine for a pro this is more than a 2 - 3 hour install with a few bucks in materials. So my guess would be no more than $250 - 300 labor.

Grand total: $350 (amp/sub)
$300 (labor)
$75 (line level converter/wiring)
$725
I think this would be on the high end. When looking at amps you can also find one that has speaker level inputs and save on buying the converter.

Hope this helps out a bit.
 
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It really depends what you want to do. I would assume you are looking to just strenghten the bottom end at bit. So what I would do is look on Crutchfield.com and look at their subs and amps. They also have some nice "combos" that include the amp, sub and enclosure.

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_10912PACK/JBL-Grand-Touring-Series-Bass-Pack.html?tp=442

Install really shouldn't be too bad. The battery is in the trunk so power connections are a snap. The only wire you need to run (through the car) is up to the fuse panel so the amp can turn on/off with the ignition. The tricky part will be a getting an input signal to the amp. They make a speaker level to line level converter so I would purchase one of those (inexpensive) and use the signal going to the factory sub.

I can't imagine for a pro this is more than a 2 - 3 hour install with a few bucks in materials. So my guess would be no more than $250 - 300 labor.

Grand total: $350 (amp/sub)
$300 (labor)
$75 (line level converter/wiring)
$725
I think this would be on the high end. When looking at amps you can also find one that has speaker level inputs and save on buying the converter.

Hope this helps out a bit.


Something to keep in mind is that some stores such as Best Buy will install the product free of charge if you have purchased it from them. I paid $150 for a guy to do my entire install. Didn't take too long, maybe about 2 hours at most.
 
I would think adding a small class D amp on the line to the existing sub would be a good start and would be easy to install. Splice into the existing wiring to the sub and hook right into the battery in the trunk to boost the output of the sub.

Adding 500W through the existing sub might be all you want or need. Or maybe you could add a box around the existing sub, swap the OEM for an aftermarket the same size but with higher output and designed for more volume, or see about making a larger hole in the read deck for a bigger sub to mount where the existing one does.
 
I would think adding a small class D amp on the line to the existing sub would be a good start and would be easy to install. Splice into the existing wiring to the sub and hook right into the battery in the trunk to boost the output of the sub.

Adding 500W through the existing sub might be all you want or need. Or maybe you could add a box around the existing sub, swap the OEM for an aftermarket the same size but with higher output and designed for more volume, or see about making a larger hole in the read deck for a bigger sub to mount where the existing one does.

I have my sub and amp hooked up in-line with my factory sub. Easy and sounds good.

What sucks is that we are unable to just swap out the stock sub and install and different sub. I was going to do this with my girlfriends Sonata, and the shop said that it was not just a drop in procedure like I thought it was. Her 8 inch sub and amp were so much different then aftermarket products and the installer said that the stock system is not compatable with an after market sub hooked up to the factory sub wires. This is also true with the Genesis.
 
Did the installer say why? Sounds fishy to me...

If you're doing a whole install with RCAs I can see incompatibility, but for a sub you can get away with the factory wires since you're basically just boosting lo fidelity bass.
 
Stopped by our local pro-audio shop today. He suggested this 12" package which is new and from JL Audio

c44f825fa48a6c32956c54e3430c817c.jpg
x2_c44f825fa48a6c32956c54e3430c817c.jpg


Quote:

  1. $399 for the unit
  2. $65 labor
  3. $30 Line-out pot
  4. $75 Wires
  • $569 Total

Seems about right and I can move it to my Equus to boot! ;)
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Can't go wrong with JL Audio Subs. Looks like the labor is more than fair. I guess these guys don't charge what they used to. I remember years ago paying alot more than $65.00 for a sub install.
 
Something to keep in mind is that some stores such as Best Buy will install the product free of charge if you have purchased it from them. I paid $150 for a guy to do my entire install. Didn't take too long, maybe about 2 hours at most.

The nice thing about Best Buy is that they will remove and reinstall the factory stuff if you are selling the vehicle (free of charge) I just have a tough time trusting them over a good independent shop.
 
The nice thing about Best Buy is that they will remove and reinstall the factory stuff if you are selling the vehicle (free of charge) I just have a tough time trusting them over a good independent shop.

Maybe it's a little MN nice:)
 
I asked my installer about adding to our system with the 7.1 and said impossible.
You could do it if you remove the 7.1 system and start fresh.
If possible, I would love to add more bass and louder.
 
I asked my installer about adding to our system with the 7.1 and said impossible.
You could do it if you remove the 7.1 system and start fresh.
If possible, I would love to add more bass and louder.

I may just end up having this installed so I'll let you know if it's "possible" or not. ;)
 
It's simple!

1. Pick the woofer you want.
2. Install it where your present woofer is. Some mod of space and mounting may be required depending on diameter. ( remember you can get more base with same diameter if the "throw" is longer.
3. select and install a "inline amp" between the speaker wires going to the old (present ) woofer. This will be powered by a separate 12 volt source. Usually these amps turn on and off when sensing the audio signal coming in.
4. This will allow the current system to unchanged except the wires to the speaker.
5. Use can adjust the gain of the new inline amp to controll the amount of bass being produced by the .2 part of the 7.2 system.

I did this on three different cars. Works great!
 
IIRC, the sub in the Genesis is a free-air sub. If this is taken into consideration while executing GripperDon's list, you have yourself a modified stereo with the low end you desire.

Keep us informed Nabber!
 
I also have a 2012 genesis r type. I had my local installer add a high low pass filter and connect a alpine 500 watt amp to 2 Rockford r2 12in subs, but it seems like the signal it is getting sound horrible. I have even replaced the high low filter with a lc2 line out converter and it made a small difference. I can barley here the bass in the car. I know it is well insulated but I would think 2 12s @ 500 watt rms would sound good. So I have know purchase a new dual amp not the cheap dual amps it was 250 and it produces 2500 watt at 1ohm rms and have ordered 3 Alpine type r subs and they will be wired for a 1.3ohm load. But I don't know if that is going to fix the problem. The place that installed it said they tapped into the subwoofer from the factory amp but is it possible they tapped into a mid or high level output? I will double check tonight as I am going to install the new stuff and double check the old install.
 
With todays line converters you can get one that will also power the remote power wire to the amp, when signal is detected it turns on the amp, that is what I have in my car the line converter is connected to the sub wiring and I am running 1 memphis 12" sub in a decent ported box I have a 600w kenwood mono amp. it puts the right amount of thump into the car.
my sub is over 12 years old.
 
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