Car Wax

[Kemp]

What are any of you all using to wax your equus? Any suggestions?

 

[homeofstone]

Well I have a Genesis and I use Nu-Finish car polish in the orange bottle. I have tried many waxes over the years but for ease of application, shine and long lasting, I prefer the Nu-Finish. After each wash I use Nu-finish spray wax. There are going to be a lot of different opinions on wax and some waxes are bad but most are good. I have one that I will never, never use again and that is Black Magic; it was very difficult to wipe off and leaves streaks and haze that requires a lot of buffing and rubbing.

 

[Mark_888]

Car Wax generates a lot mythology and very strong emotional opinions, but it is very hard to find the actual facts. Sort of resembles discussions about motor oil in that respect. Car Wax manufacturers contribute to the confusion. I don't claim to be an expert, but here is what I have found out after researching the subject:

A true car polish is not something you want to use on a regular basis since it actually removes a very thin layer of the clear coat or paint (although not nearly as much as rubbing compound, which should only be used once on a very old and oxidized paint service). Whether or not Nu Finish is actually a polish is hard to say, but I would be bet that is does have some cleaning ability, and ability to remove some very fine scratches or paint irregularities that may be present. Meguiar's Cleaner Wax is a similar product. Neither of these probably need to used on a continuous basis for the life of your car (unless used sporadically). Probably OK to use a product like this one time when the car is new (after paint has cured) and then follow-up with a traditional wax product after that. It can be used again if you need repair areas where the paint or clear-coat has been lightly scratched or is very dirty (road tar, bird droppings, etc). After that, you probably want to use a car wax on a regular basis.

Most decent modern car waxes no longer actually contain natural waxes, but are actually synthetic polymers. True waxes (especially carnuba wax) are typically only used on show-cars to provide visual depth, but they don't last very long and are easily removed with a detergent (and they have a very low melting point). Even most carnuba car waxes are mixed with some synthetic ingredients these days. Generally, a true natural wax (as opposed to a synthetic polymer) is not for the overwhelming majority of car owners. Henceforth in this post, the term wax will be used to refer to all products, even those that don't actually contain natural waxes.

Synthetic polymers have sealant properties and have the ability to physically bond to the paint or clear coat that most people are looking for, and last a reasonably long time. They are so hard to completely remove (unlike a true natural wax), that body shops have to use special chemicals to remove it when repainting a car. They typically come in one of three forms:

• One-step liquid sprays
• Liquid wipe-on/let dry/wipe-off
• Paste wipe-on/let dry/wipe-off

One-step sprays are typically used on a wet car (right after a car wash but before it is dry), but these typically don't last as long as the kind you apply, let dry, and wipe off. But they may be OK in-between regular waxing, especially if it is the exact same brand/formula of liquid or paste wax that you used previously with traditional application methods.

Paste wax products tend to have fillers in them that make it difficult to remove the residue from plastic or rubber parts. This is even true when the exact same brand/model car wax comes in both paste wax or liquid forms, so liquid is probably best for most non-professionals.

There are some internet-only synthetic polymer products like Zaino that have a cult-like status. These products usually involve a multiple step (multiple product) application, similar in concept to what was mentioned above in using a cleaner/polish, and then a synthetic polymer after that (often preceded by a clay bar application).

After doing a lot of research, I think there are some off-the-shelf products (available at any discount or auto parts store) such as Meguiar's that are probably just as good (or nearly as good) as Zaino, and they generally have the full range of products (clay-bar, cleaner/polish, wax, etc) that a multi-step system like Zaino has (if you actually need all of them).

Meguiar's has two very good synthetic polymers:

• NxT 2.0
• Ultimate

Supposedly the newer Meguiar's Ultimate lasts a little longer than NxT 2.0 and looks better on dark colors, but some say NxT 2.0 looks better on lighter metallic paint finishes. In either case, use the liquid versions for ease of removal from plastic or rubber parts. If you wax with these once or twice per year, you should be able to get by without using a cleaner or polish type wax every time you wax, unless you have some special areas that need extra cleaning and restoration (not just wax).

There are other off-the-shelf brands besides Meguiar's that are probably just as good, but I don't know as much about them.

 

[Southern Boy]

You might try this site www.detailedimage.com for advice and reviews of all car waxes and products use by professional detailers.

Also http://www.autogeek.net has a good how to section with products evaluations.

 

[Mark_888]

You might try this site www.detailimage.com for advice and reviews of all car waxes and products use by professional detailers.

Website appears to be "parked" by Go-Daddy.

One of the problems I had with advice from "professional detailers" is that they often use products that are buffed with professional buffing machines, and that is not something most car owners want to do for themselves.

 

[Kemp]

Thanks for all the information. Sounds like NXT is popular. Over at the Mercedes blog they like it too. Anyone use Zymol? I used it on my Porsche and it lasted forever. I still have some that I kept in the refrigerator. Hand packed Carbon wax?

 

[homeofstone]

Thanks for all the information. Sounds like NXT is popular. Over at the Mercedes blog they like it too. Anyone use Zymol? I used it on my Porsche and it lasted forever. I still have some that I kept in the refrigerator. Hand packed Carbon wax?

I have used Zymol and its very good, still have an old bottle in my shop. However the Nu finish lasted longer for me. The NU-finish liquid is not very abrasive and their spray is not abrasive at all. Check consumer reports tests, that also may help you deside.

 

[Mark_888]

I have used Zymol and its very good, still have an old bottle in my shop. However the Nu finish lasted longer for me. The NU-finish liquid is not very abrasive and their spray is not abrasive at all. Check consumer reports tests, that also may help you deside.

Looks to me like Zymol is a true wax product (not synthetic polymer) so it may look great, but won't last nearly as long.

 

[Kemp]

Thanks, I knew Consumer Reports liked Nu Finish, but I think they were impressed with how long it lasts. I have used it before.

 

[Southern Boy]

Website appears to be "parked" by Go-Daddy.

One of the problems I had with advice from "professional detailers" is that they often use products that are buffed with professional buffing machines, and that is not something most car owners want to do for themselves.

Sorry I blew it and corrected web site address evidently after you read it. The correct address is www.detailedimage.com

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[tbently]

Has anyone used LustreLab LXR? On line it is $60 a gallon.

 

[Top Gear]

BTW, there is already a thread where product and techniques are being discussed, the ultimate detailing thread.

Car Wax generates a lot mythology and very strong emotional opinions, but it is very hard to find the actual facts.

Actually, Mark, your post has plenty of mythology and opinion, much of which I used to share until I got schooled. Meguiar's reps on their discussion site will tell you that as long as the paint is properly prepped (wash, clay, cut, polish before waxing), the wax selected does not matter, as it's just a protective layer. Meguiar's carnauba waxes (#26 Yellow and Gold Class) last perhaps a week or so less than the synwaxes (Ultimate or NXT, for example), or about a month. That is all anyone need expect from a wax, as it's not meant to be permanent. However, a boost wax like their "quick wax" matched to the wax type (Ultimate for synthetic, or Gold Class for carnauba) used after washes or quick details will extend the wax application for a much longer time, as will avoiding washes when a quick detail will do, so the "correction" process might only need doing two or three times a year. The carnauba waxes will look deeper and richer by comparison, and both claying and true polish (Ultimate Polish) are non-abrasive, so you can do them anytime you wax. It's the cutting/leveling with compound that can be mildly abrasive. However, if you use Ultimate Compound and a Mirror Glaze cutting pad for a dual action machine, there is no danger of paint damage.

If you're like I was and just wash the car and then slab some wax on it and buff it off, patting ourselves on the back of course, the results will be totally hit or miss depending on the car and each panel, which hasn't been "prepped" at all, really. We can get away with this on a new car or new paint for a while, but sooner or later, the paint needs as much prep and "correction" as an older car. The wax itself is less important than the condition of the paint with regular maintenance and the prepping before wax. Check out my own post breaking down some of this, from days ago in the same thread linked above. My car is about a year old now, and I'm doing my first full paint correction today and this week, weather permitting. The car looks great from a few feet away, but feeling the paint and looking at various areas reveals a rough surface, swirls from over-washing and wiping, holograms from polishing small areas, etc.

Obviously, I suggest Meguiar's as well They have a complete system and multiple lines of product, but there are many great brands, like Mothers, Adams, and Chemical Guys.

 

[Kemp]

Excellent post. I talked to the Zmol guys and they basically said the same thing. Before you put it on, strip off whatever is on the car, then start with the base.

Too much damn work!

 

[Mark_888]

Actually, Mark, your post has plenty of mythology and opinion, much of which I used to share until I got schooled. Meguiar's reps on their discussion site will tell you that as long as the paint is properly prepped (wash, clay, cut, polish before waxing), the wax selected does not matter, as it's just a protective layer. Meguiar's carnauba waxes (#26 Yellow and Gold Class) last perhaps a week or so less than the synwaxes (Ultimate or NXT, for example), or about a month. That is all anyone need expect from a wax, as it's not meant to be permanent.

I will stand by my original post. I use Meguiar's myself (Cleaner Wax and NXT), but I don't believe:

1. That a carnauba wax will last nearly as long as synthetic. Perhaps Meguiar's carnauba waxes are blends of carnauba and synthetics, and they last longer than pure carnauba.
2. That a good quality synthetic wax lasts only about 5 weeks as you imply above. Most good synthetic car waxes will last up to year, depending on how often they are washed and what kind of wash detergent is used. I am sure that Meguiar's would like its customers to wax every 4-5 weeks, but that is a different subject. But I use a car as transportation, and I am not obsessed about how much it shines. I also don't have a black car, which needs a lot more attention.

 

[Top Gear]

Mark, here's why I questioned your advice:

...A true car polish is not something you want to use on a regular basis since it actually removes a very thin layer of the clear coat or paint (although not nearly as much as rubbing compound, which should only be used once on a very old and oxidized paint service)...

No, true polishes are non-abrasive, merely creating a bright shine a wax then adds to and protects. A polish like Meg's Ultimate Polish can be used everytime you wax with no ill effects whatsoever (assuming it's applied correctly). Quality compounds, like Meg's Ultimate Compound, are also very mild micro-abrasives (SMAT) that you'd have to go well out of your way to do any harm with, like using lots of pressure and staying a long time on one spot on a plastic painted bumper, for example. Otherwise, it can be used everytime you wax, though it might not be necesary, depending on swirls, etc.

...Meguiar's Cleaner Wax...probably [does not] need to [be] used on a continuous basis for the life of your car (unless used sporadically). Probably OK to use a product like this one time when the car is new (after paint has cured) and then follow-up with a traditional wax product after that.

Misleading. Paint on new cars is already cured by the time we buy them, and (although I haven't used MCW in a long while) you can use such a product every single time, and probably need to if all you're otherwise doing is old school waxing, because just washing and waxing will not be good enough after a few months to a year of gunk building up on a daily driver non-garaged, especially if you're only waxing once a year because you think wax lasts that long

...Most decent modern car waxes no longer actually contain natural waxes, but are actually synthetic polymers. True waxes (especially carnuba wax) are typically only used on show-cars to provide visual depth, but they don't last very long and are easily removed with a detergent...

Well, there is less real difference visually between any wax compared with another, even on a black car, than some people seem to think. The real differences are in the prep or condition or polish of a panel or area. It also depends greatly on what "detergent" you're talking about.

...Synthetic polymers have sealant properties and have the ability to physically bond to the paint or clear coat that most people are looking for, and last a reasonably long time. They are so hard to completely remove (unlike a true natural wax), that body shops have to use special chemicals to remove it when repainting a car.

Misleading. It sounds like you are talking about those dealer sealants which are more akin to clear coats, and that is not the same thing at all as a synthetic wax.

...One-step sprays are typically used on a wet car (right after a car wash but before it is dry), but these typically don't last as long as the kind you apply, let dry, and wipe off. But they may be OK in-between regular waxing, especially if it is the exact same brand/formula of liquid or paste wax that you used previously with traditional application methods.

Sorta, as least with Meguiar's. Quick Detailer is a non-abrasive cleaner-polish for water-less washing, Quick Wax is a non-abrasive booster for the proper wax, and both should be matched to your wax's product line, as you said.

...One of the problems I had with advice from "professional detailers" is that they often use products that are buffed with professional buffing machines, and that is not something most car owners want to do for themselves.

You no longer need a rotary buffer to get that look (which carries more risk of paint burn). You do need a 3-step process, though, and a DA is definitely the way to go. I remove product and buff by hand, although, I might get a buff pad here soon. Still, professional detailing advice is not something to ignore just because you don't want to use a machine (if I understood you, correctly). Some detailers can surely be wrong about a lot, but I've been very impressed with the Meg's forum.

...I don't believe:

1. That a carnauba wax will last nearly as long as synthetic. Perhaps Meguiar's carnauba waxes are blends of carnauba and synthetics, and they last longer than pure carnauba.
2. That a good quality synthetic wax lasts only about 5 weeks as you imply above. Most good synthetic car waxes will last up to year, depending on how often they are washed and what kind of wash detergent is used.

Yes, Gold Class is a blend, some others aren't. Some people in the forums report NXT lasting as little as 3 weeks and Deep Crystal as long as 6 months, and of course, the reverse, and so on. Again, it totally depends. I'd used a synwax before (First Place Finish) and it only lasted a few weeks at best, but then I was washing a lot. I've used others over the years, and not washed as much, and never got anything like a year out of them as you're claiming. Now, the basic polish or finish itself (not the wax) can certainly last a long time. I mean, if paint is in great condition and washed with a quality wash-n-wax soap, you can sometimes barely tell the applied wax has actually worn off. I really don't think anyone is getting a year out of any wax job, unless it's a garage-kept car under a soft cover that only comes out for a few hours at a time and thus never needs much actual cleaning For us DD'ers, the "finish" might last a year, but the wax would have long since washed off.

...But I use a car as transportation, and I am not obsessed about how much it shines. I also don't have a black car, which needs a lot more attention.

Yep, so it all depends on how it's prepped, how it's driven and stored, washed, etc. In my case, my goal has been to basically stop washing the car unless I really have to. Since changing my gameplan, I'm using the "duster" and QD/QW now, saving water, time, effort, and of course more work correcting swirls from the washing.

It's been two weeks since I corrected the Coupe and I see and feel no loss of wax yet. Just today I did the 3-step DA correction on another car and the feel of the two paints is the same, that velvet-like near wet feel. The Coupe has been rained on several different days, driven in the rain and sleet, and been out on the interstate a good bit. I've not washed it the old way in two weeks, and have only applied QD/QW three times. The gloss factor is the same as when I'd corrected (stunning!), and the same as the other car today. I'd say another few weeks is no problem at all, maybe 6 weeks total or more - but I might re-correct before then, anyway. So, we'll see

 

[Mark_888]

Some people in the forums report NXT lasting as little as 3 weeks and Deep Crystal as long as 6 months, and of course, the reverse, and so on.

The only way NXT can last only 3 weeks would be if the car is washed almost daily and/or if the wrong kind of wash detergent was used (not using a detergent specifically designed for cars that does not remove the wax).

The other variable is that some people are perfectionists when it comes to their car finish and shine, and some just want it to look good and bead water.

 

[geomon]

Thanks for your very detailed post. I just picked up my new 2013 Genesis last week and was wondering if it is a good idea to have a wax job now and if so what would be the best product to use?

 

[Mark_888]

Thanks for your very detailed post. I just picked up my new 2013 Genesis last week and was wondering if it is a good idea to have a wax job now and if so what would be the best product to use?

If you have a Genesis, it was made in Korea and can be waxed by the time you get it. How often do plan on waxing your car? If it will be once or twice a year, I would suggest a long-lasting synthetic car wax like Meguiar's Utlimate Meguiar's NXT Generation Tech Wax 2.0, or other equivalent wax from another brand.

 

[Top Gear]

Looking at this thread again, I have to say, it's only now, nearly a full year later, that I need to "re-correct" the paint (compound, polish, carnauba wax, using a DA). With the exception of the front nose which I touched up a couple of months ago, I've gone all this time by washing about once a month (carnauba wash-n-wax product, two buckets), and cleaning using Meguiar's Gold Class Quik Detailer and Quik Wax (matching my carnauba liquid wax).

My Coupe looks show-car stunning even at nearly two years old, with a deep, wet black look, and I haven't used a drop of synthetic wax since I gave that up that in 2012. Meguiar's Gold Class is the bomb. You're gonna want that carnauba

 

[patrick]

What are any of you all using to wax your equus? Any suggestions?

I use Rejex on my white 2014 Genesis, have used in the past on my Venza and this is truly one of the best, costly but the best...