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**HELP** The Dreaded CEL!! - 2015 5.0 Sedan - Code P2098

Attached are the documents the dealer provided me while I wait for the catalytic converter to arrive. (Feel free to view attachments. However I have outlined the items of importance below w/ exception of Repair Estimate breakdown.)

The Service Invoice notes exactly what my local mechanic and I noticed when we looked at the live data. Hyundai tech noted: "performed diagnosis on fuel system and found bank 2 rear o2 sensor going lean at idle. mimicing front o2 sensor catalyst converter is bad". (Obviously their system does not have spellcheck)

As for the Multi-Point Inspection, the dealer has noted the following "requires immediate attention":

Cabin / HEPA Filter
Fluids: Oil / Coolant / Power Steering / Brake Fluid / Washer
Engine Air Filter
Tread Depth: Left Rear Tire - 3 (measured in 1/32")
Tread Depth: Right Rear Tire - 3 (measured in 1/32")
Brake Linings: Left Front - 3 (measured in mm)
Brake Linings: Right Front - 3 (measured in mm)
Brake Linings: Left Rear - 3 (measured in mm)
Brake Linings: Right Rear - 3 (measured in mm)

The Repair Estimate (attached) states the cost to address the issues listed in the inspection is a flat $996.00. The line item that has me scratching my head is "Tires -4" and cost is listed at "$78.14". There is absolutely no way the dealer is going to give me 4 brand new Michelin PS4 tires for that price. What could this line item possibly indicate?

To note once more, I find it odd this repair estimate does not include an oil change because that is the one service that I know for a fact the vehicle needs. I am certain they can tell by the VIN that I have had zero service performed on the vehicle since I purchased in June.

I would like to get the community's thoughts and input on the Repair Estimate. Not only opinion regarding the cost but the necessity of the work the dealer states "requires immediate attention". I do not want to have the dealer laughing all the way to the bank.
 

Attachments

  • Service_Invoice.webp
    Service_Invoice.webp
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  • Mulitpoint_Inspection.webp
    Mulitpoint_Inspection.webp
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  • Repair_Estimate.webp
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-Cabin and engine filters you can do yourself.
-Wait, did the dealer just say you needed Power Steering Fluid changed? You have Electric Power Steering (EPS), there IS no fluid nor pump.
-$78.14 FOR TIRES? How is that possible??? I'd go to Discount Tire and buy them there. Sales are going on as we speak along with 12 months to pay off using their credit card.
-Coolant change is crap. You have 10 years / 120,000 fluid. Any shop can use the test strips to confirm.
-Fuel induction service is more crap. You don't need that.

Brakes can be done almost anywhere. Shop around. If you decide to go aftermarket, AKEBONO has some good pads. Lots of positive comments on other boards.
 
-Cabin and engine filters you can do yourself.
-Wait, did the dealer just say you needed Power Steering Fluid changed? You have Electric Power Steering (EPS), there IS no fluid nor pump.
-$78.14 FOR TIRES? How is that possible??? I'd go to Discount Tire and buy them there. Sales are going on as we speak along with 12 months to pay off using their credit card.
-Coolant change is crap. You have 10 years / 120,000 fluid. Any shop can use the test strips to confirm.
-Fuel induction service is more crap. You don't need that.

Brakes can be done almost anywhere. Shop around. If you decide to go aftermarket, AKEBONO has some good pads. Lots of positive comments on other boards.

Fuel Induction sounded silly. Multiple community users have mentioned that the filters were DIY and to pass on Coolant. Tires for $78.14 got my head spinning.

Now that I think about it... That could be mounting and balancing, they must have forgot to add the actual tire line item and description. I’ll ask tomorrow as the part (cat) has arrived.

I will mention the Service Advisor has been extremely prompt in response and incredibly polite. I would bet dollars to donuts she is just taking the mechanics word for what needs to be maintained or replaced. I will leave it at that.

I greatly appreciate your advice on shopping for brake pads. I figured there was a reputable brand other than trusting a local brake shop. So thank you for that info about AKEBONO.

As far as the resurfacing rotors goes, needed or not needed? (Audi, or any Audi mechanic would want me to replace both rotors and pads everytime). Resurfacing was never an option. 🤦‍♂️

Thank you for your input glennk. Much appreciated.
 
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Resurfacing these already inexpensive rotors is an utter waste of time and money, not to mention that since they're on the inexpensive side they'll warp right after a turning.

 
Fuel Induction sounded silly. Multiple community users have mentioned that the filters were DIY and to pass on Coolant. Tires for $78.14 got my head spinning.

Now that I think about it... That could be mounting and balancing, they must have forgot to add the actual tire line item and description. I’ll ask tomorrow as the part (cat) has arrived.

I will mention the Service Advisor has been extremely prompt in response and incredibly polite. I would bet dollars to donuts she is just taking the mechanics word for what needs to be maintained or replaced. I will leave it at that.

I greatly appreciate your advice on shopping for brake pads. I figured there was a reputable brand other than trusting a local brake shop. So thank you for that info about AKEBONO.

As far as the resurfacing rotors goes, needed or not needed? (Audi, or any Audi mechanic would want me to replace both rotors and pads everytime). Resurfacing was never an option. 🤦‍♂️

Thank you for your input glennk. Much appreciated.

As quoted above by Suburbazine, I wouldn't resurface. I'd just replace them. If you're mechanically inclined, you can do them yourself and save $$$. If not, look online. There are many places selling OE rotors right at $100/piece. If you go aftermarket, even less.

Can anyone else provide further feedback on this?
 
Check with PepBoys. Right now, they have a 20% sale on parts. Their brand rotors are $66/piece front and $44/piece rear. AKEBONO pads are $75 for the fronts (ACT1799) and $62 for the rear (ACT1551).
 
So I dropped the vehicle back off this morning now that the Cat has arrived. Was originally told this would be an easy job and I could pickup my car later in the day. (Keep in mind this is the second time I have taken the car to the dealer this week).

They call me back a few hours later to now tell me that they need to keep the car for 2 days because the installation requires the engine to be lowered out of the car. To make matters more complicated, they gave me a long string of excuses why they could not provide a loaner.

The only options they gave me was to come back for the car and try again next week or leave it with them and they would try to get it done by 4pm tomorrow.

Needless to say, I am now very unhappy and my patience has grown a bit thin. I needed the car this weekend to travel for a wedding, but I sure as hell don't want to drive the car as I am getting 5 mpg and burning through fuel. IDK why that is but it must due to the post cat o2 sensor and the computer trying to compensate.

I decided to just let them keep the car and bite my tongue for now... I really hope they don't call me back with anymore excuses. Overall my dealership experience seems to be going downhill fast.
 
So I dropped the vehicle back off this morning now that the Cat has arrived. Was originally told this would be an easy job and I could pickup my car later in the day. (Keep in mind this is the second time I have taken the car to the dealer this week).

They call me back a few hours later to now tell me that they need to keep the car for 2 days because the installation requires the engine to be lowered out of the car. To make matters more complicated, they gave me a long string of excuses why they could not provide a loaner.

The only options they gave me was to come back for the car and try again next week or leave it with them and they would try to get it done by 4pm tomorrow.

Needless to say, I am now very unhappy and my patience has grown a bit thin. I needed the car this weekend to travel for a wedding, but I sure as hell don't want to drive the car as I am getting 5 mpg and burning through fuel. IDK why that is but it must due to the post cat o2 sensor and the computer trying to compensate.

I decided to just let them keep the car and bite my tongue for now... I really hope they don't call me back with anymore excuses. Overall my dealership experience seems to be going downhill fast.

Holy crap. The engine needs to be removed!
Can the cognoscenti weigh in?
 
Holy crap. The engine needs to be removed!
Can the cognoscenti weigh in?

I am headed back up to the dealer now to get my suit and luggage out of the car that I need for this weekend. I guess we will find out if they are actually, or have begun to remove the engine. What a colossal headache!

Hopefully someone with extensive knowledge of this vehicle can weigh in.
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The car was on the lift and the mechanic appeared to be removing components. I didn't press him with questions. However, he voluntarily stated that since I had a V8, a large number of components had to be removed. He did not mention anything about lowering the engine. I did notice my front tires had been removed. Other than that I do not know what I was looking at.

I also attempted to sweet talk the service manager. Told her this was my first dealership experience and was willing to work with them if they would meet me halfway. I asked her if there was any possible outcome where the dealer could make some sort of accommodations rather than demanding anything. This seems to have worked. She now told me that she would ask her boss if they could allocate a loaner. Fingers crossed they accommodate.
 
I have less than 50k on my 16 awd v6 and I too had my cat replaced. My CEL code was p0420. The work only took one day. The car and manifold are one piece so there is some extra added to replace this part.
 
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This is why you don’t jump to conclusions that the cat is bad. They are a royal pain to replace.

I hope they find an issue with the cat after all that effort.
 
This is why you don’t jump to conclusions that the cat is bad. They are a royal pain to replace.

I hope they find an issue with the cat after all that effort.

You and me both! I assumed it was the cat but never mentioned any of my suspicions to the dealer or tech. I just said I have a CEL and the car is under warranty. Felt no reason to tell them I’d hooked it up to a computer elsewhere other than Hyundai. Also I’m no mechanic. Everyone here seems to be highly knowledgeable. I’m hoping, like you the mechanic didn’t jump to that conclusion without replacing O2 sensors (in the order you mentioned earlier).

Dealer said tomorrow at 2pm either I get my car back or loaner. I’ll be sure to update this thread.
 
Cabin air filter is like $13 at Autozone. Why would you even need rear brakes at 48k? I'm doing mine myself when the time comes. Coolant flush: NO. Fuel induction cleaning: NO. Key does good work, but they'll also try to up sell you things like fuel system cleaning. Just say NO. Ask for Rob.
 
Why would you even need rear brakes at 48k?
When I lived in the city at 48K I'd be replacing them the second time. Stop sign or traffic light most every corner.
 
Resurfacing these already inexpensive rotors is an utter waste of time and money, not to mention that since they're on the inexpensive side they'll warp right after a turning.

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Agreed. I made the mistake of trying to have these rotors turned... it was horrible. I turned around & went straight back to the shop before I made it a half block & requested new rotors be fitted.
 
So any update to this 4 year old thread? Did the cat replacement resolve the issue? My 2015 3.8 rwd just started to throw a P0420 code at 73000 miles and it may be the cat or the 02 sensors. I do have a 10/100K CPO powertrain warranty from the local dealer I purchased the car from. A bit nervous about taking it in to them for a $180 diagnosis if it's just am 02 sensor or if the cat is not covered
 
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