09 rear dome light help

[1iwilly]

hello to all
my daughter has a 09 3.8 sedan the dome lights in rear/passenger are blown how to do you take the assembly down and are the bulbs easy to replace or solder in thanks

 

[NJTom]

My rear light also had issues. I narrowed it down to be the switch on the dome lights were the problem. The lights are LED so switching a bulb is not an option. I ended up buying a new (used) dome light from ebay from a newer model (I think 2013). Removing the plastic lens covers then the inner lenses made access to the screws easy.

 

[1iwilly]

thanks so they have to be solder where can the actual replacement be bought from.??

 

[hamed57]

I had problems with my 09 genesis too. My problem was really simple to fix. Just open the assembly and turn on the light. Then tab on the big resistor which is mounted to the heat sink right before the actual LED. If the light turns on by tapping it means that you just have to reflow the solder joint of the resistor. It is easy.

 

[G-255404]

I took apart the assembly and scraped off the epoxy coating on the resistors (one for each LED). The resistors are not what I envisioned. They're rectangular but clearly are resistors. I reflowed the solder joints and reinstalled the assembly.
Both LEDs work perfectly! Thanks so much for your help.

 

[tm20133.8]

Agree the resistor solder joints may be a common problem. Both the front and rear dome lights in my 2013 3.8 have been intermittent since I bought the car last summer. I orginally tried re-flowing numerous solder joints with no improvement but did not try the resistor joints. New units are crazy expensive so last month I bought two used units for $50 each. They were a different trim color so I put the used switch modules in the original housings to minimize the color change. The front unit appeared to be good but the rear was intermittent. After seeing the most recent and 2018 posts above, I took the original modules back off the shelf, re-flowed the resistor joints and they are now working 100% and back into the original housings. With borderline solder joints, I suspect temperature changes were contributing to the intermittent problem as the heat sink panels would expand and contract with the temperatures. If all are still working 100% when hot weather arrives this summer, I will feel confident the units are fixed for good.