2013 sedan Tech package No audio from radio

[Northern_Genesis]

Good day everyone

I have a 2013 Tech Package Sedan with 61000km on the clock. I winter store this vehicle and have since 2016 so it does not get driven except once the snow melts away.

When I picked this up in Jan 2015 I had an intermittent issue where the radio would lose all audio and the volume knob would do nothing regardless of the direction it was turned.

I had bought the car used from Hyundai and paid extra for the extended warranty. Fast forward to mid 2016 the radio just no longer works. I brought it to the dealership which replaced the entire system at a total invoice cost of $19000.
I was never happier to have bought a warranty.

Now in Sept 2023 after a 3 hour drive I parked it and lost all audio again. This time I located a blown 40amp fuse in the engine bay fuse panel.
I replaced the fuse and it instantly blew.

I did some research and bought a replacement amplifier off ebay.

I installed that amp this past December 2023, replaced the 40amp fuse and it worked flawlessly.

Now today, I started the car up no problem, it was parked for a month or so, and I idled it to circulate everything and to get warm.
I drove it about 3km, stopped at the post office, the radio was working perfectly. I got back into the car, turned it on and no audio again. I checked all the fuses, none are blown.


Does anyone know what is going on with this "Logic 7" amplifiers? How can they just suddenly grenade without warning?
I did not have the volume up past 7 and I turned the car on and heard the radio and then poof...dead.

I can access the ENG menu however I cannot reset the UTA (same issue when I needed to replace the prior amp). Again, they're are no blown fuses and I've done all the common fixes (disconnect the battery, remove the yellow fuse from the driver side interior etc.) all without solving this matter.

Does anyone know what goes wrong in this stupid Logic 7 amps and how to go about fixing them? I touched the amp in my car after driving, its warm but not hot and certainly not scalding hot like I would expect from a catastrophically failed unit.


If anyone knows what to do to fix this or knows of someone that fixes them I'd be more than thankful.

Cheers

Mike

 

[Gunkk]

Check the fuse and bus-bar block on top of the battery positive terminal. IIRC the amp takes its power from here, and the fuse links are known to fail with hairline cracks from fatigue, resulting in intermittent electrical issues. Also check wiring and connector integrity. Whatever caused that 40A fuse to blow might also have taken something else with it; 500W is a lot of power.

Failing that, a shop with a GDS can pull DTCs (if present) for troubleshooting. Not sure if Autel or other 3rd party scan tools can see these. The table below is for the head unit (which includes a few self-tests on the amp).



Here's a few more U DTCs that apply to the head unit:

 

[Northern_Genesis]

Check the fuse and bus-bar block on top of the battery positive terminal. IIRC the amp takes its power from here, and the fuse links are known to fail with hairline cracks from fatigue, resulting in intermittent electrical issues. Also check wiring and connector integrity. Whatever caused that 40A fuse to blow might also have taken something else with it; 500W is a lot of power.

Failing that, a shop with a GDS can pull DTCs (if present) for troubleshooting. Not sure if Autel or other 3rd party scan tools can see these. The table below is for the head unit (which includes a few self-tests on the amp).

View attachment 58474

Here's a few more U DTCs that apply to the head unit:
View attachment 58475

Thank you so much for the reply and I am sorry for the delay in getting back to you.

I checked all the fuses you mentioned, I'll have to have another look at those fuse links, I had my suspicions about them but they didn't have any noticeable cracks in them, I'll figure out a better way of checking.

The fuses on the battery itself are perfectly fine, no issues and no signs of them getting hot. The connector and its wires look in fantastic shape too.

I have the old amp I replaced with this used one and I took it apart to see if there was anything of note. It is remarkably clean inside and nothing appears obvious to me.

I used a multimeter and a wiring diagram and was able to ohm out the power hot and ground connections on the amp I replaced (this is the one from hyundai that replaced the original one, I have now replaced it with amp #3). In checking those two connections it produced 0 ohms which I believe means a short.
That would explain why it blew the 40amp fuse the second it was connected.


NOW, I went out today and moved the car in the garage and the radio works perfectly fine, I think it has to be those bus bar blocks. This car has never been driven in the winter, has under 65K on it and is basically a summer touring car.
At this point I'm at a loss

 

[pacificwoods]

Thank you so much for the reply and I am sorry for the delay in getting back to you.

I checked all the fuses you mentioned, I'll have to have another look at those fuse links, I had my suspicions about them but they didn't have any noticeable cracks in them, I'll figure out a better way of checking.

The fuses on the battery itself are perfectly fine, no issues and no signs of them getting hot. The connector and its wires look in fantastic shape too.

I have the old amp I replaced with this used one and I took it apart to see if there was anything of note. It is remarkably clean inside and nothing appears obvious to me.

I used a multimeter and a wiring diagram and was able to ohm out the power hot and ground connections on the amp I replaced (this is the one from hyundai that replaced the original one, I have now replaced it with amp #3). In checking those two connections it produced 0 ohms which I believe means a short.
That would explain why it blew the 40amp fuse the second it was connected.


NOW, I went out today and moved the car in the garage and the radio works perfectly fine, I think it has to be those bus bar blocks. This car has never been driven in the winter, has under 65K on it and is basically a summer touring car.
At this point I'm at a loss

Did you find the solution? I too having no sound after intermittent on/off. TIA

 

[Northern_Genesis]

Did you find the solution? I too having no sound after intermittent on/off. TIA

Sorry this took me so long to get back to you.

In short no, I think there’s a loose ground somewhere on the pigtail. That will be a summer chore