2015 v8 2g oil change w/mityvac

kn5owa

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2015 5.0L 2G oil change w/mityvac

Finally got around to changing the oil on this car using a MityVac - the notes below may help other DIY'ers.

First off - why vacuum the oil out? Answer is you don't have to remove the rear lower body panel or the drain plug/crush washer. And since the MityVac - or whatever you're using - is inherently a fluid vacuum device, it's actually hard to spill a single drop of oil.

A few stats: I used 1/4" o.d. semi-rigid tubing (Lowes) inserted in the dipstick tube and pulled out nine quarts of oil. A few more ounces spilled out during the filter swap. Since the dipstick had been exactly at the full mark, this reinforces the idea put forth on some other posts that this engine takes almost a quart more than the stated 8.49 quarts.

It took less than 15 minutes to remove the nine quarts of oil, using a Husky 20 gal. compressor.

Removing the bottom front panel - the fun part. It's held in place by 11 push pins and 5 10mm cap screws (10mm. head). Wasn't all that bad, except the little hard rubber push pins are hard to remove, hard to install, and make lousy panel fasteners - other than that, they are ok. I recommend tossing the old ones and using all new ones - get 'em on Ebay in quantity.

And even if the push pins fall out, the panel is still held in place by the five cap screws - two on each side and one in front.

The filter cap itself requires a 24 MM socket - The little "drain bolt" on the end must be removed first and takes a 6 mm hex wrench.

The rather stubby, smallish filter must be very carefully inserted over a retaining post in the filter ass'y before replacing the cap. Rotate & push at the same time so that the filter is properly aligned and concentric with the housing. And don't forget to lube the two O-rings.

Another thread on the forum was devoted to "crushed filter" syndrome - follow the advice above to avoid same.

Lastly - why do all this yourself? The dealers freely admit that they hate the job, and many posts on the subject indicate that they are royally screwing peoples' cars up. Also, I want to know for sure what oil goes in my car.

Have fun.
 

Mark_888

Registered Member
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Genesis Model Type
1G Genesis Sedan (2009-2014)
A few stats: I used 1/4" o.d. semi-rigid tubing (Lowes) inserted in the dipstick tube and pulled out nine quarts of oil. A few more ounces spilled out during the filter swap. Since the dipstick had been exactly at the full mark, this reinforces the idea put forth on some other posts that this engine takes almost a quart more than the stated 8.49 quarts.
Another possibility (that some will find hard to believe) is that a carefully done removal of oil via the MityVac (with attached air compressor) actually removes more oil than removing the drain plug.

Regarding the 20 gal Husky air compressor: Of course you know that the 20 gallons is the amount of stored compressed air in the compressor, but just so others know, any small or low power air compressor will work fine with the MityVac MV7300.
http://www.mityvac.com/pages/products_fee.asp
 

ntx_v8

Registered Member
67
3
8
Another possibility (that some will find hard to believe) is that a carefully done removal of oil via the MityVac (with attached air compressor) actually removes more oil than removing the drain plug.

I don't know about the V8, but on the V6---it will be approximately the same. The dipstick tube goes almost exactly to the drain plug.
 

kn5owa

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Re: 2015 5.0L 2G oil change w/mityvac

Addendum to 5.0 L oil change post above:

The so-called "drain bolt" on the filter cap serves no purpose except to block the 24 mm. socket used for cap removal. I.e., the filter cap is mounted on the engine at a 45 deg. angle so that the cap retains most of the oil ( a couple of oz.'s) even with the drain bolt removed.

Tip: Remove the filter cap with a band wrench and ignore the "drain bolt" altogether. Even if it worked right, it can be a source of problems. Altogether, a ridiculous design.
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Midnightsun

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Re: 2015 5.0L 2G oil change w/mityvac

Addendum to 5.0 L oil change post above:

The so-called "drain bolt" on the filter cap serves no purpose except to block the 24 mm. socket used for cap removal. I.e., the filter cap is mounted on the engine at a 45 deg. angle so that the cap retains most of the oil ( a couple of oz.'s) even with the drain bolt removed.

Tip: Remove the filter cap with a band wrench and ignore the "drain bolt" altogether. Even if it worked right, it can be a source of problems. Altogether, a ridiculous design.

Actually found the drain bolt does it's job in draining the filter once removed so as not to spill a bunch on you when you remove it. The 24mm socket works much better than any strap wrench can dream about. This is what I use. http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-13310-Profile-Filter-Socket/dp/B0041DODDC

The plastic push pins are like these .http://www.ebay.com/itm/50x-8mm-Hol...Auto-Fender-/272047156738?hash=item3f57462e02 Important part is that they are for an 8 mm hole.

Cannot see the point in sucking the oil out as you have to remove the panel to get to the filter regardless and there you have access to the drain bolt. I have a beast of a suction machine which I use on other cars and do net even use that. This is my suck master. :D http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200623859_200623859
 

kn5owa

Sustaining Member
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Re: 2015 5.0L 2G oil change w/mityvac

Actually found the drain bolt does it's job in draining the filter once removed so as not to spill a bunch on you when you remove it. The 24mm socket works much better than any strap wrench can dream about. This is what I use. http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-13310-Profile-Filter-Socket/dp/B0041DODDC



Cannot see the point in sucking the oil out as you have to remove the panel to get to the filter regardless and there you have access to the drain bolt. I have a beast of a suction machine which I use on other cars and do net even use that. This is my suck master. :D http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200623859_200623859

1. Drain bolt - I went by the book and removed it first - only a few drops of oil came out because the filter cap is canted at an angle and retains most of the stray oil (see thumbnail photo) So, in my view, the drain bolt is useless.

2. Type of wrench - Of course, the 24 mm socket is preferable - but you can't use it without removing the "useless" drain bolt first. The bolt has a wide "pan head" which blocks the 24 mm. socket. A cup wrench is also preferable to a band wrench, but again the drain bolt gets in the way. Lastly, Autozone sells a nice 24 mm 5 pt. socket in 1/2" drive, if you choose a socket wrench.

3. Push pins - main thing - throw the old ones away - use new ones.

4 "Sucking the oil out"? Here's why - On the 5.0 V8, the oil pan w/drain plug on that engine is behind a SECOND panel positioned to the rear of the front panel - and that second panel is a real bear to remove - almost back to the center of the car. And with the vacuum gadget, nary a drop is spilled. And you also don't have to remove and replace the pan drain plug & "crush washer".

Terminology note: I am using the term "drain bolt" to reference the little pan head plug on the filter cap because that is the term used in the shop manual.

By "drain plug", I mean the oil pan drain plug.
 

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kn5owa

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Re: 2015 5.0L 2G oil change w/mityvac

I have actually purchased some, but can you please supply the web address for comparison?
I bought mine from Ebay - 100 pc. bag for $8.64 free shipping

listing number is 371222529360
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