Air Silencer Removal 4.6L

[2ez24get]

Today I pulled the air filter and replaced it with a K&N panel filter. While I was there I see the 4.6L has a air silencer in the form of a hinged door which opens under intake vacuum. Seems like a potential problem if the door ever got stuck you would be way down on power. One screw holds the plastic door onto the air box. I removed it and now the air restriction is gone. I now feel the engine pull much better under all throttle conditions. The mod took about 15 min and it really made a difference!

Thanks

 

[TJPark01]

which piece are you talking about?

 

[2ez24get]

The picture you posted does not show the air restrictor I removed from my 2010. The part has a number of DK116-3M102. This part has a magnet that keeps the door closed until there is enough air flow to open it. I took a pic of it below. Sorry I did not take a pic of it in the air box before removal.

 

[ctrcbob]

I don't know if that thing is a silencer, however it is located in the bottom of piece #8, although you can't see it in the parts diagram. I've seen the flap every time I check the air filter, and clean the crud on the bottom of the housing. (Don't get crud in the housing anymore - see paragraph below). Never gave a thought to remove the flap, as I'm sure the designers have a good reason to place it there. In addition, the car has so much power as it is, anymore will just scare me, as it already scares me every time I tromp on it to pass.

Not to change the subject, but while on the subject of the Air Filter. Every time I check mine now, it is clean. Reason?? Well back in April, I drove out to Phoenix and while there, I heard about dust storms between Flagstaff and Albuquerque, so I built a "Pre-Filter" using quarter inch coarse window a/c filter material. Placed it in front of the air intake, located above the radiator. I oiled this pre-filter, first with filter oil (now just with WD-40). Drove through four dust storms on I-40. The pre-filter was red with dust, as was the entire engine, but it kept all that red dust off the regular engine air filter. When I arrived in Roswell, I removed the pre-filter, washed all the red dust off the engine and off the entire engine compartment. Then I washed the pre-filter, and put it back in front of the air intake over the radiator. I oil it every so often with WD-40. Catches a lot of grit and dust, but does not stop the air from getting to the stock air filter. Also, because it is so far BEFORE the stock air filter, oil does not get to the stock filter, much less past it, to the air flow meters. I still get GREAT gas milage.

 

[2ez24get]

That flapper gate is a restriction anyway you look at it. It blocks about 25% of the opening. I use to sell performance parts for Ford Thunderbird/Mustangs and a easy mod was to pull the air restrictor aka air silencer from the air box to allow better air flow to the air filter. Try it and see for yourself if you notice better throttle response and better gas milage.

Thanks

 

[ctrcbob]

I'm not going to do anything that could cause warranty issues.

 

[PINGGOLF]

I'm not going to do anything that could cause warranty issues.

Well...I did it...for the heck of it. I would say that removing the ECS fuse is probably more damaging than this little flap...warranty wise.

The flap opens when the suction/vacuum becomes strong enough to open it from the magnetic base. So...in reality, it is ALWAYS open in my car.

I dont think it did to much performance wise but it definitely sounds impressive! I now get that deep throaty sound that the V8 deserves.

Thanks for finding this one!

 

[2ez24get]

The engine sounds a tic louder and I have noticed upshifts are crisper.

 

[ASHDUMP]

OK - I'm mechanically inclined but don't work or tweak cars a lot. Any way to get a step by step on this one? Do I have to get under the engine at all or is the work from above? I'd love to do this little mod.

EDIT: OK, it appears that all I need to do is check the air filter area which I have never done before. I'll check it tomorrow and if I'm missing anything you all can chime in!

 

[2ez24get]

Open air box by releasing the two clips on the top then loosen intake hose to top of air box using phillips head screwdriver then set top aside then look down into the air box bottom then using a phillips head screwdriver remove the one screw and pull the restrictor out. Reinstall air box top and tighten the intake hose clamp.

Done.

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[scotttisha]

i did the same thing while i was in changing out my high beams...it wasn't actuated by anything electrical or pneumatic, so i figured as long as hot air was entering the air box, it couldn't hurt to take it out....

along these lines I'm starting another thread regarding intake temps..

scott

 

[2ez24get]

which piece are you talking about?

I meant to ask before. What is the filter above the air filter in the top of the air box? Seems strange to have two filters in the air box. I may try removing the upper filter and see how just the K&N does. How much they restricted the intake makes me think there was more HP Hyundai left in the engine.

So far the engine shows better acceleration.

 

[TJPark01]

I meant to ask before. What is the filter above the air filter in the top of the air box? Seems strange to have two filters in the air box. I may try removing the upper filter and see how just the K&N does. How much they restricted the intake makes me think there was more HP Hyundai left in the engine.

So far the engine shows better acceleration.

I'm not 100% sure what you're looking at is a filter. I know there is a secondary filter in between the air box and the throttle, but there are also a few components that are described below. I'm not an engineer, but common sense dictates that if you change flow rates the computer is going to react, whether it's good or bad is indeterminable.
This is from the HMA website.
General Information'>GENESIS(BH) >2009 > G 4.6 DOHC > Engine > Engine Control > P0101 Mass or Volume Air Flow \'A\' Circuit Range / Performance > General Information
The Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAFS) is located between the air cleaner assembly and the throttle body. The MAFS uses a hot film type sensing element to measure the mass of intake air entering the engine. This hot film type air flow sensor consists of a hot film sensor, housing and metering ducts. Mass air flow rate is measured by detection of heat transfer from a hot film probe. The change in air flow rate causes change in the amount of heat being transferred from the hot film probe surface to the air. A large amount of intake air represents acceleration or high load conditions while a small amount of intake air represents deceleration or idle. The mass of intake air should increase at acceleration and be stable during constant engine speed. The ECM uses this information to determine the injection duration and ignition timing for the desired air/fuel ratio.

 

[2ez24get]

I know what a mass air meter is and how it works. Mass air equipped engines will adapt for increase air flow. Ford MAS would accept a 15% increase air flow before maxing out the flow table in the ECU. I am going to assume the Hyundai MAS will accept a simular air flow increase. Air flow is usually restricted by the diameter of the smallest opening in the intake (throttle body) air box system (MAS). I was not looking for discussion of MAS, I just wanted to know if anyone had removed the upper filter in the air box?

Thanks

 

[Rey]

Are you referring to a "screen" at the MAF when you write about a secondary filter? I haven't checked mine to determine if their is a screen. Mfgs usually have a screen to catch any debris that gets past the air filter. It is a bit of overkill in my opinion.
My experience is with GM products, particularly the recent Corvette LS series motor. We routinely remove the MAF screen in these cars. HP increase is small, like less than 5 hp. But every little bit counts.

 

[PINGGOLF]

Are you referring to a "screen" at the MAF when you write about a secondary filter? I haven't checked mine to determine if their is a screen. Mfgs usually have a screen to catch any debris that gets past the air filter. It is a bit of overkill in my opinion.
My experience is with GM products, particularly the recent Corvette LS series motor. We routinely remove the MAF screen in these cars. HP increase is small, like less than 5 hp. But every little bit counts.

I removed that screen in my old Tundra and Silverado. I have not checked to see if the Genny has one.

What they are talking about is a yellowish grid-like filter in the top of the airbox.

The only way it is held in place is by hot shots. This is where they have a plastic peg and touch it with a hot iron and melt the plastic to hold it in place. You can practically thump the melted plastic off and pull the filter out. I did, noticed no improvements, and so I laid it back inside. The next time I went for an oil change they secured it again by melting the plastic.

 

[motorsportsauthority]

1/2 hp increase on the dyno using this "mod". I'd chalk that to margin of error, so I'd say this does nothing for the car but make a different in sound.

 

[flyboy2]

Today I replaced the airfilter with a K&N and removed the "no suck tube". Back pressure on down shifting was greatly reduced which I enjoyed. I'm sure the air/fuel ratio has changed but my initial response was very positive. I feel I have more hp on acceleration. Possibly a 3-5 hp increase-- A dyno would confirm. It's a very economic fix for more hp with little or no engine warranty consequences. This makes this car a true BMW beater or better yet... raper.

 

[scottdk]

1/2 hp increase on the dyno using this "mod". I'd chalk that to margin of error, so I'd say this does nothing for the car but make a different in sound.

I agree completely. This will do pretty much nothing imo. Even if it did produce a couple of HP's, it is not physically possible to feel 5 hp increase at all. 25 HP, absolutely. As some would say, "It's all in your head"

 

[flyboy2]

Yes possibly. We'll next check mph reading--