Alignment Issues and Tires having to be replaced

[Mo in Texas]

I currently have two G70's a 2019 3T and a 2021 3.3T. Both within 8 months had to have the tires replaced COMPLETELY, because of alignment. Both cars had under 10,000 miles and were in the shop every 4000k for check ups include alignment check.

These cars have cost me two new sets of tires. I had tire warranty Gold but it only covers road hazard, not alignment issues that cause the tires to wear. I have been told by three different dealers, Burleson, Tx, Irving, TX and Laguna in San Diego this is a known problem. This is not acceptable and Genesis needs to step up to the plate. Trying to reach them .. IMPOSSIBLE, dealers wont help either. As a matter a fact Burleson as well as Irving told me that that Hyundai was going to stop servicing Genesis all together.

I am really ticked, I have one with his car going to School in AZ, and One in the Marine Corp in San Diego. Both drive very little as there is not a need for lots of mileage, but it makes it very hard for one to help them with this cars. I picked Genesis because I was told reliable car, service and warranty. So far I see $$$

I should have stuck with Audi at this point. If this site gets me anything I would love to hear from the Corporation and possibly get some resolution.

Signed is Everyone Dishonest?

 

[jfo]

What's the nature of the problem? Excessive toe, camber, etc? What do the dealers say about the cause.

 

[dxtra196]

Having the same issue I'm on my third set of tires. The rear end dances a little going over really bad pavement or over manholes. Both rear tires are completely gone, the front ones are within milage wear. I'm in the process of replacing the front right strut assembly and right rear shocks the left strut was replaced last year after hitting a couple bad potholes which help with the rear dancing and it's less pronounce but is lightly there. Check your suspension components

 

[Volfy]

I currently have two G70's a 2019 3T and a 2021 3.3T. Both within 8 months had to have the tires replaced COMPLETELY, because of alignment. Both cars had under 10,000 miles and were in the shop every 4000k for check ups include alignment check.

What exactly was the alignment issue? Were they out of spec at any of the 4000 mile alignment checks?

I've had both Stinger and G70 alignment checked/adjusted just recently, and both came in within spec. Firestone has life-time alignment for $179 - well worth it.

G70 stock front suspension's camber and caster are non-adjustable. Both my cars were still within spec after Eibach lowering spring install. Unless the car is crash damaged, I don't see how the front could go out-of-spec. Rears are fully adjustable.

 

[Husky]

I haven't had any unusual wear issues with my G70. I should probably get the alignment checked, it's got 22k miles, but it drives straight and the wear is even. (I do wish the dampers were firmer, but that's a different issue, haha.)

 

[Volfy]

I do wish the dampers were firmer,

Spot on. When we were changing out springs, I "squished" both the front and rear dampers and were shocked (pun fully intended) at just how soft they are. Then again, I'm not at all surprised. Partly to blame is the OEM 19" tire fitment. Tire/wheel are integral part of the suspension system. Since low profile tires have very little compliance, factory engineers were forced to soften the shock absorbers, in an attempt to achieve a level of ride comfort that is acceptable to most buyers of this luxury compact car category.

At least those G70s with electronic suspension can be set to sportier (firmer) settings, but even then, from the G70 with ESA I've test driven, it isn't all that much firmer.

I've searched but have yet to find aftermarket adjustable shocks for our fitment. As soon as I find them, I'm buyin'.

 

[Husky]

Yes, my F30 BMW had a similar problem. Soft dampers to compensate for short sidewalls. Not good.
My G70 has the 18" wheels, so it's even softer. I've been wondering if there were aftermarket ones that would be better.

 

[Volfy]

Believe me... I've looked and have found none so far. Other than coilovers, of course. Problem is most folks these days are suspension modding mostly for aesthetics reasons. Back in the "good ol' days", it was quite common to replace the shocks with adjustable ones when installing lowering springs. The talk was typically about whether to go with Koni, Bilstein, or KYB.

Now, it seems that the aftermarketeers don't offer much support on shocks, cus folks don't bother buying them any more. Sad.



LOL... just realized OP wrote that post back in March 15 and never bothered to check back in after 1 day. Yeah...

FWIW, Between the Stinger and G70, we've had zero sign of abnormal tire wear. Even the extremely aggressive compound AutoX tires have worn very evenly, after some serious thrashing about in Houston Summer heat by both me and my son at no less than 4 events.

 

[Husky]

Thanks for the info, and for saving me the time to look. Yeah, over the years I've used KYB, Koni and Bilstein in various cars. I don't have an interest in going the coilover route, so I guess I'm stuck.
Stiffer/shorter springs might help (some are very happy with them), but a stiffer spring generally needs to be matched with an even firmer damper. Also, since I drive it in the winter up here, I don't really want to lose ground clearance, even if it might look a bit better.
On the plus side, it sure rides nice than my old M3 (with Bilstein Sports), haha.

 

[Husky]

Believe me... I've looked and have found none so far. Other than coilovers, of course. Problem is most folks these days are suspension modding mostly for aesthetics reasons. Back in the "good ol' days", it was quite common to replace the shocks with adjustable ones when installing lowering springs. The talk was typically about whether to go with Koni, Bilstein, or KYB.

Now, it seems that the aftermarketeers don't offer much support on shocks, cus folks don't bother buying them any more. Sad.



LOL... just realized OP wrote that post back in March 15 and never bothered to check back in after 1 day. Yeah...

FWIW, Between the Stinger and G70, we've had zero sign of abnormal tire wear. Even the extremely aggressive compound AutoX tires have worn very evenly, after some serious thrashing about in Houston Summer heat by both me and my son at no less than 4 events.

I've been meaning to ask, how does your Stinger or G70 do against other similar (or similarly modified) cars at AutoX? Of course, I realize it's hard to compare car times with different drivers, since that's a big part of the equation. It sounds like you have a lot of track experience.

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[Volfy]

I've been meaning to ask, how does your Stinger or G70 do against other similar (or similarly modified) cars at AutoX? Of course, I realize it's hard to compare car times with different drivers, since that's a big part of the equation. It sounds like you have a lot of track experience.

Good question. In our last event back in August, my son ranked 2nd in the Novice class out of 15 entries, losing only to a Corvette Z06. If he didn't knock down 1 cone, he would've been within 0.3 sec of the Z06. Me with my old reflexes came in 6th, about a sec behind my son.

That was our last novice run. Next event will get interesting. Stinger 2.0T is explicitly listed under G Street, while Stinger 3.3T is listed under F Street. I would've thought G70 would be treated the same, but no. SCCA listed all G70 under F Street, which is patently unfair to us 2.0T guys, as we are pitted against M3's, V8 muscle cars like Shelby GT350, and a bunch of fast turbo V6s. Even then, our last event's times with the G70 6MT Sport were actually within competitive range with the 9 entries in F Street class. With some more practice, I'm sure we can easily be in the middle of the pack in F Street.

So yes, proper prepped, G70 can be quite competitive.

FWIW, I sent a petition to change classification for the 2.0T G70 to the SCCA Solo Review Board. They've agreed to put the issue up for comment. See the latest SCCA Fast Track publication: https://cdn.connectsites.net/user_files/scca/downloads/000/063/812/SEB_September_2022.pdf?1660946399 I see no reason why anyone would object, but it may be some time before the motion is formally passed, then codified.

Stinger? Not quite as good compared to the G70. My 2.0T Stinger is 100 lbs heavier and has a longer wheelbase. The hatchback chassis is also torsionally less stiff. However, mine now has both Brembos and LSD, so at least it will be a bit more evenly matched with our G70.

That said, both cars now have Whiteline anti-roll bars, Eibach lowered springs, CAI, and JB4, so we will no longer be in the Solo Street class, but Street Touring. The reason for us deciding on these mods actually have nothing to do with AutoX. We did them mostly because we wanted to get into SCCA Time Trials, which are run on actual race tracks. These mods are all allowed in the Sport Category. There is an event coming up on Oct 22nd at Motorsport Ranch at Cresson. We will be running both Stinger and G70. The higher speeds and more sweeping turns mean the longer wheelbase won't be as much a disadvantage as in the typical tight AutoX course. IMO, Time Trials are better suited for these cars. But, we will still do as many Solo events as we can. At $35/entry, it's a hard-to-beat venue for sharpening skills.

 

[futur3stig15]

Having the same issue I'm on my third set of tires. The rear end dances a little going over really bad pavement or over manholes. Both rear tires are completely gone, the front ones are within milage wear. I'm in the process of replacing the front right strut assembly and right rear shocks the left strut was replaced last year after hitting a couple bad potholes which help with the rear dancing and it's less pronounce but is lightly there. Check your suspension components

Have this same issue. I have a 20 RWD sport and my rears are almost gone but fronts are fine. Car has 34k miles on it and it did this to the last set as well. But I did get this set replaced for half price because the fronts of the last set started throwing chunks of the tread off exposing the wires. To be fair, the PS4S on now are only meant to last about 10,000 miles and ive put about 13k on them since december. That being said the fronts still have maybe a little less than half the tread where as the rears are pretty close to being slicks. I drive hard but ive maybe lit these tires 4 time and that should not at all take off that much tread.

 

[Husky]

That sounds pretty good actually. I never got more than about 9k miles on the rear summer tires of my M3(s), even less on the 911. That's without any track time or burnouts. That extra bit of traction summer tires provide comes at a price.

 

[Husky]

Good question. In our last event back in August, my son ranked 2nd in the Novice class out of 15 entries, losing only to a Corvette Z06. If he didn't knock down 1 cone, he would've been within 0.3 sec of the Z06. Me with my old reflexes came in 6th, about a sec behind my son.

That was our last novice run. Next event will get interesting. Stinger 2.0T is explicitly listed under G Street, while Stinger 3.3T is listed under F Street. I would've thought G70 would be treated the same, but no. SCCA listed all G70 under F Street, which is patently unfair to us 2.0T guys, as we are pitted against M3's, V8 muscle cars like Shelby GT350, and a bunch of fast turbo V6s. Even then, our last event's times with the G70 6MT Sport were actually within competitive range with the 9 entries in F Street class. With some more practice, I'm sure we can easily be in the middle of the pack in F Street.

So yes, proper prepped, G70 can be quite competitive.

FWIW, I sent a petition to change classification for the 2.0T G70 to the SCCA Solo Review Board. They've agreed to put the issue up for comment. See the latest SCCA Fast Track publication: https://cdn.connectsites.net/user_files/scca/downloads/000/063/812/SEB_September_2022.pdf?1660946399 I see no reason why anyone would object, but it may be some time before the motion is formally passed, then codified.

Stinger? Not quite as good compared to the G70. My 2.0T Stinger is 100 lbs heavier and has a longer wheelbase. The hatchback chassis is also torsionally less stiff. However, mine now has both Brembos and LSD, so at least it will be a bit more evenly matched with our G70.

That said, both cars now have Whiteline anti-roll bars, Eibach lowered springs, CAI, and JB4, so we will no longer be in the Solo Street class, but Street Touring. The reason for us deciding on these mods actually have nothing to do with AutoX. We did them mostly because we wanted to get into SCCA Time Trials, which are run on actual race tracks. These mods are all allowed in the Sport Category. There is an event coming up on Oct 22nd at Motorsport Ranch at Cresson. We will be running both Stinger and G70. The higher speeds and more sweeping turns mean the longer wheelbase won't be as much a disadvantage as in the typical tight AutoX course. IMO, Time Trials are better suited for these cars. But, we will still do as many Solo events as we can. At $35/entry, it's a hard-to-beat venue for sharpening skills.

Interesting, thanks. Sounds like you and your son are doing quite well and having fun with the cars.
Good luck at Motorsport Ranch, and with your request for re-classification.
How do you like the sway bars?

 

[Volfy]

Interesting, thanks. Sounds like you and your son are doing quite well and having fun with the cars.
Good luck at Motorsport Ranch, and with your request for re-classification.
How do you like the sway bars?

The Whiteline anti-roll bar kits are of excellent quality. Fitment is also superb. Bushings and brackets are tight and exact fit. They didn't come with grease fittings, like Eibach does, but I drilled and tapped the brackets to add my own for less than $20. Bar end clearances are good for both holes - cleared suspension components no problem. I didn't bother with the optional adjustable link, as the OEM links work just fine... no need to link length adjustment. Right now, both F+R are both in the "mild" settings. Haven't had a chance to test the limits extensively just yet, but the both chassis feel fairly neutral on corner tip in. We'll have to wait till the track day to see how well they rotate through long sweepers with varying amounts of throttle input. May need to fine tune between sessions.

I'm pleasantly surprised ride quality isn't much noticeably worse than before lowering springs + anti-roll bars. The only times I sense any difference is when going over bumps on one side at a time. There is a more pronounced "clunk", which I'm pretty sure is due to the stiffer polyurethane anti-roll bar bushings transmitting road shock into the unibody chassis. It is fairly mild and hardly worth calling "harsh'. I'm, or course, rolling on 18"s, both road and track. They do make a substantial difference compared to heavy 19" stock.

Normally, for most production cars, my philosophy on suspension upgrade is in the following order:

1. Upgrade tires
2. Upgrade to lighter wheels
3. Stiffer spring, lowering ride height
4. Anti-roll bars

Reason is that Stiffer springs and lowering ride height improve both lateral (cornering) stability and longitudinal weight transfer (squat/dive on accel/decel). However, if you prefer not to lower ride height - and I don't blame you because of your location and climate - anti-roll bars would still make a worthy standalone upgrade.

 

[ephone1]

The Whiteline anti-roll bar kits are of excellent quality. Fitment is also superb. Bushings and brackets are tight and exact fit. They didn't come with grease fittings, like Eibach does, but I drilled and tapped the brackets to add my own for less than $20. Bar end clearances are good for both holes - cleared suspension components no problem. I didn't bother with the optional adjustable link, as the OEM links work just fine... no need to link length adjustment. Right now, both F+R are both in the "mild" settings. Haven't had a chance to test the limits extensively just yet, but the both chassis feel fairly neutral on corner tip in. We'll have to wait till the track day to see how well they rotate through long sweepers with varying amounts of throttle input. May need to fine tune between sessions.

I'm pleasantly surprised ride quality isn't much noticeably worse than before lowering springs + anti-roll bars. The only times I sense any difference is when going over bumps on one side at a time. There is a more pronounced "clunk", which I'm pretty sure is due to the stiffer polyurethane anti-roll bar bushings transmitting road shock into the unibody chassis. It is fairly mild and hardly worth calling "harsh'. I'm, or course, rolling on 18"s, both road and track. They do make a substantial difference compared to heavy 19" stock.

Normally, for most production cars, my philosophy on suspension upgrade is in the following order:

1. Upgrade tires
2. Upgrade to lighter wheels
3. Stiffer spring, lowering ride height
4. Anti-roll bars

Reason is that Stiffer springs and lowering ride height improve both lateral (cornering) stability and longitudinal weight transfer (squat/dive on accel/decel). However, if you prefer not to lower ride height - and I don't blame you because of your location and climate - anti-roll bars would still make a worthy standalone upgrade.

I've had Eibach F/R sway bars for over 2 years. Ironically, I was thinking about switching to a Whitetline front bar to see if I could get rid of the thunk when going over bumps on one side. It drives me nuts. In my case, it always happens when I go over a bump on the passenger side, the sound comes from the driver side. I've readjusted the bar many times, and had limited success. My latest theory is that the bar moves slightly side-to-side despite having a built-in collar on the bar - there is still about .5" of lateral play that I can test when I'm under the car with cover off. I was hoping to dial that out with the Whiteline collars. It may be the case that this isn't fixable.

 

[Volfy]

I would say the best course of action is to remove the front anti-roll bar to check if THAT really is what's causing the thunk noise. The front bar comes off easily enough. The bushing brackets are right out in the open.

Test drive briefly to see if the noise is gone. With the Eibach, it's kinda hard to install it wrong. With my Whiteline, I had to measure and eyeball the bar to make sure it is centered properly, before I install the end-stop collars.

Maybe the bushings are wearing a bit loose?

 

[ephone1]

I would say the best course of action is to remove the front anti-roll bar to check if THAT really is what's causing the thunk noise. The front bar comes off easily enough. The bushing brackets are right out in the open.

Test drive briefly to see if the noise is gone. With the Eibach, it's kinda hard to install it wrong. With my Whiteline, I had to measure and eyeball the bar to make sure it is centered properly, before I install the end-stop collars.

Maybe the bushings are wearing a bit loose?

I did put the original OEM bar back on at one point (left it on during Winter) and the noise went away. I am going to see about getting new bushings. I would love to get rubber bushings, but none of the aftermarket suspension companies have an option. Take this with a grain of salt, but I read somewhere while looking into all this over the past couple years that even Porsche, Ferrari, etc don't use urethane bushing on anything but track focused cars due the noise.

I did notice that Whiteline has you use the OEM brackets with their bushings. It may be possible to find rubber bushings that fit my bar, and then use OEM brackets over them. Eibach ships with their own brackets.

 

[Volfy]

Yeah, sounds like it is the Eibach then.

Whiteline front anti-roll bar does reuse the OEM bracket, though I doubt I could find rubber bushings that fit the larger diameter Whiteline bar. I do like the OEM front brackets, which are quite wide and provide a lot of load bearing surface. That is another reason I prefer Whiteline's design.

Polyurethane bushings are noisier than rubber. Not only do they transmit more road shock and vibration to the chassis, they also tend to squeak if allow to dry. That's why Eibach has grease nipple on their brackets and why I added them to my brackets. That said, the added NVH isn't that much worse. Even with the stiffer Eibach lowering springs, both our Stinger/G70 remain very compliant and pleasant overall. Most of the time, it is essentially as quiet as stock. I do feel a bit more suspension noise/harshness over rough pavement, but nothing close to bad enough to be "thunks" or "clunks".

I too would prefer OEM-style rubber bushings, but I understand the stiffer the anti-roll bar, the more force will be exerted on the bushings to resist twisting of the anti-roll bar. Pretty sure that's why polyurethane are used.

 

[G-56912]

What exactly was the alignment issue? Were they out of spec at any of the 4000 mile alignment checks?

I've had both Stinger and G70 alignment checked/adjusted just recently, and both came in within spec. Firestone has life-time alignment for $179 - well worth it.

G70 stock front suspension's camber and caster are non-adjustable. Both my cars were still within spec after Eibach lowering spring install. Unless the car is crash damaged, I don't see how the front could go out-of-spec. Rears are fully adjustable.

I currently have two G70's a 2019 3T and a 2021 3.3T. Both within 8 months had to have the tires replaced COMPLETELY, because of alignment. Both cars had under 10,000 miles and were in the shop every 4000k for check ups include alignment check.

These cars have cost me two new sets of tires. I had tire warranty Gold but it only covers road hazard, not alignment issues that cause the tires to wear. I have been told by three different dealers, Burleson, Tx, Irving, TX and Laguna in San Diego this is a known problem. This is not acceptable and Genesis needs to step up to the plate. Trying to reach them .. IMPOSSIBLE, dealers wont help either. As a matter a fact Burleson as well as Irving told me that that Hyundai was going to stop servicing Genesis all together.

I am really ticked, I have one with his car going to School in AZ, and One in the Marine Corp in San Diego. Both drive very little as there is not a need for lots of mileage, but it makes it very hard for one to help them with this cars. I picked Genesis because I was told reliable car, service and warranty. So far I see $$$

I should have stuck with Audi at this point. If this site gets me anything I would love to hear from the Corporation and possibly get some resolution.

Signed is Everyone Dishonest?

I don't know either, my michelin sport tires lasted a whopping 6k miles on a g70 2.4 sports package. That is pathetic, under warranty but I have to pay $150 every three months to get tires replaced? Front tires are fine, back are bald... I'll be writing reviews in quite a few places, I've replaced my tires way too many times already...