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Cabin air recirculation doesn't work 100% of the time

rogerroger

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Has anyone noticed if their air recirculation system doesn't work 100% of the time? I typically recirculate cabin air all the time because I don't care to smell the exhaust from other cars. I have noticed on a few occasions that it isn't working. My car fills with exhaust smell even though the button is pushed and the recirculating light is on. I end up having to roll the windows down to vent out the exhaust air, and then it starts working again.
 
Has anyone noticed if their air recirculation system doesn't work 100% of the time? I typically recirculate cabin air all the time because I don't care to smell the exhaust from other cars. I have noticed on a few occasions that it isn't working. My car fills with exhaust smell even though the button is pushed and the recirculating light is on. I end up having to roll the windows down to vent out the exhaust air, and then it starts working again.

Your system is working as designed. The system will only recirculate for a certain amount of time (20 min?) before fresh air is forced in the vehicle. The purpose of this is to ensure the humidy level doesn't get too high and fog up the windows, and also to avoid drowsiness from extra Co2. I believe this info is in your owners manual in more detail.
 
Thanks for the response Scott. I actually did look in the manual but didn't see this mentioned. Guess I need to read better.
 
Are you sure about that Scott?

My '12 stays on all the time when I press it. And when in traffic, I get no exhaust smell in the car.

I do know that the car has a sensor that if you are not on recirc and in traffic, the car will automatically switch to recirc to prevent the exhaust fumes in the car.

I know they said for the '15 model, they have a sensor for the CO2 to add in fresh air when the level gets too high to avoid the drowsiness.

You may want to take it in and have it checked.
 
I remember reading something in the manual about a sensor, but maybe that's the "A" button.

I'm not a home to check the OM.......
 
I just noticed today in my 2012 that it won't let you recirculate the air when you select the mode that forces air to the floor and the windshield at the same time. I suspect for the same reason described earlier, they don't want to risk fogging up the windshield, although running the A/C with it ought to help prevent that.
 
Maybe that's the difference. I run mine in auto all the time. But even in auto, I can select the closed air option. I do not run mine in manual mode. It's so much easier to set the temp and let the system do the work.

On a side note, it may also depend on which system you have. Mine is an R Spec so it has all of the options.
 
.02. When in any setting, auto, or auto where you cut the compressor off, if the outside temp, and outdoor/indoor humidity hits a certain level, HVAC takes over. You lose the auto filter function, recirculation control. It goes to a "defroster"mode and show a symbol blinking on DIS screen when I try to override the settings. Also, it forces the AC compressor on. No way to have non AC air.

I live in Midwest where Climate change happens every day. The systems seems to do this mostly between between 35-60 degrees, cloudy moist days, and evenings where dew point is close to converging.

Last week in a 643 mile round trip with a evening snow/ice storm (one way), temp varied between 24-35f, and this "feature" kicked on all the time. AC compressor running no matter what, no recirculation, no auto filter.

Oh, and the Blizzaks were amazing. More stable than the Expedition because if low profile in high winds. Plenty of traction.
 
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Same problem. Temperature outside 30-40F and calling for heat. Then for some reason I get cold air. Had it in the shop twice and found nothing. After continual complaining and a 3rd trip to the dealer the foreman final realized that the Genesis has Auto Defogging logic in its software and if it senses that windshield defrosting is needed it takes control and does whatever it thinks it needs to do. Unfortunately, their algorithm is pretty flaky and turns on the windshield defrost and bottom vent even when it is sunny and 70 degrees. Anyway, Hyundai didn't have much faith in their Auto-Defogging logic as they give instruction in the owner's manual (I believe page 98 of the Auto-Defogging Logic) as to how to disable it. After 3 visits to the dealer and multiple emails to Hyundai California, some how someone finally realized that this vehicle has this logic and what I was experiencing appears to be what the Auto-Defogging logic was supposed to do. Hopefully the Disable function works better that the Auto-Defogging logic.
 
I reside in the "Camp Fire"-Paradise-2018 area and the air is almost toxic! On my way home in my '17 G80, the recirculate light went out and outside contaminated air came in! I had to stop and put on my N-95 mask Tried to re initiate to no avail! 40 K miles on the ride!
 
I reside in the "Camp Fire"-Paradise-2018 area and the air is almost toxic! On my way home in my '17 G80, the recirculate light went out and outside contaminated air came in! I had to stop and put on my N-95 mask Tried to re initiate to no avail! 40 K miles on the ride!
Some models have a CO2 sensor. If the cabin builds up too high a level of CO2 it brings in fresh air. That normally happens when you have a few people breathing for a time.

I wonder if under the air quality of your area it may have sense the level changing so it brought in what it normally would be fresh air.
 
Maybe that's the difference. I run mine in auto all the time. But even in auto, I can select the closed air option. I do not run mine in manual mode. It's so much easier to set the temp and let the system do the work.

On a side note, it may also depend on which system you have. Mine is an R Spec so it has all of the options.
I have the R Spec too. Very often it calculates the inside temperature cooler than it really is. In other words, the heater can activate when it is 85 degrees inside and the auto is set to 72.
 
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