Car wont start in the afternoon but starts without fail in the mornings

[MMADAWG]

I dont claim to be a car guy or a mechanic but ive never seen anything like this if anyone is able to help with any of the symptoms id appreciate it, they are all or nothing when it comes to the symptoms of acting up

2009 HYUNDAI GENESIS 4.6L SEDAN TECHNOLOGY PACKAGE
INTERMITTENT STARTING ISSUES:
-Has no issue starting from the ignition switch button without fail but only in the mornings

-At lunch time 12pm EST sometimes the button will work, sometimes you have to put the keyfob in the key holder to start the vehicle
-Sometimes you have to open a door to get it to start
-Sometimes it will crank then shut off or feel like its going to shut off but starts
-Sometimes it will crank then shut off and continuously crank until cycled off, shows the symbol the the orange key light
-When the failure is occurring the seat will move forward and backwards, the steering wheel will move up and down
-OCCASIONALLY it will tell me to check the steering wheel lock
-When it is acting up by not starting the passive entry system will not work, keyfob will not unlock the doors with the buttons on the fob or on the handle
-When none of the above solutions work for getting it to start I have to hit the shift interlock into manual shift mode, run it in accessory mode, then switch it to neutral to get it to start (all while the keyfob is in the key holder)
-Other symptoms are the interior lights flash fast, the seat belt charm will beep fast until plugged in then its quiet, and the seat belt light will not go off even after being plugged in, passenger airbag light will flicker, radio will reboot

-(EVERYTHING WORKS WITHOUT FAIL IN THE MORNINGS NO LIGHTS, NO CHARMS, NO ISSUES AT ALL) STORED CODES: B1602 (PDC CAN ERROR) (POWER SEAT MODULE CAN ERROR)
(DRIVER DOOR MODULE CAN ERROR) (STEERING COLUMN MODULE CAN ERROR)
only other code is catalytic efficiency code, which was because i ran on bad O2 sensors for 6months when i had first got the car because I didnt have $1000 to repair them at the time

-CAR BATTERY TESTED GOOD, KEY FOB SIGNAL/BATTERY TESTED GOOD ALL THE TIMES IT HAS ACTED UP, it has been an ongoing issue since i got my car repaired 4 months ago for VC gaskets, purge valve & hoses, spark plugs, tube seals, gas cap, o2 sensors (all unrelated id assume but i didn't have these issues until after)

 

[joegr]

Is it only a problem when it is hot in the cabin?

 

[MMADAWG]

Is it only a problem when it is hot in the cabin?

Yes, it seems to be temperature based, when parked in the shade it has partial issues starting the solution is to open the driver door and press the button, when it is cold outside (rare in florida) is will start with just a push of a button regardless of the time of day, everyone ive asked says it seems to be a bad/corroded ground but this car has so many i dont know where to start

 

[joegr]

Yes, it seems to be temperature based, when parked in the shade it has partial issues starting the solution is to open the driver door and press the button, when it is cold outside (rare in florida) is will start with just a push of a button regardless of the time of day, everyone ive asked says it seems to be a bad/corroded ground but this car has so many i dont know where to start

The bad ground theory is a popular one, but it is often wrong. Since the problem is when hot, not cold, I doubt it will be a loose ground or other open circuit. I think it is more likely to be an electronic component that is near failure, in one of the electronic modules. Of course, it could still be something loose that is acting in an uncommon way.

In the morning when all is cool, you might try inducing a failure using a hair dryer (on low) pointed at different modules to try and see which one reacts. Do not use a heat gun, too hot.

 

[Gunkk]

Well based on description, engine harness issues are likely not the culprit as pretty much everything described is wired with the body harness and body side of the PDM.

As far as a diag plan, I would probably go with this:
1. Put an oscilloscope on OBD port pins 3 and 11 (CAN high and low) and observe while normal and misbehaving.
2. Begin process of elimination with jiggle test.
3. If jiggle test unsuccessful, try hair dryer.
4. Perform a careful visual inspection of all connectors, fuse blocks components top and bottom, wiring for systems that show faults when misbehaving (IMS, IPM, tilt-telescope module, steering lock, etc.). Looking for shorts, opens, blue crusties, corrosion, etc.

Wiring diagrams will be required. Download and install this zip (NOT self-installing. zip requires manual extraction and then click manuals.exe) then go to Table of contents, and you can find the wiring diagrams for your 2009 there. If the TOC is empty, you didn't extract & install correctly. This is the old 2009 manual which is a standalone application (not a pile of PDFs).

If this is beyond your ability, OP, find the best automotive electrician in your area and be prepared to spend a couple labor hours for a diagnosis. Good luck.

 

[MMADAWG]

The bad ground theory is a popular one, but it is often wrong. Since the problem is when hot, not cold, I doubt it will be a loose ground or other open circuit. I think it is more likely to be an electronic component that is near failure, in one of the electronic modules. Of course, it could still be something loose that is acting in an uncommon way.

In the morning when all is cool, you might try inducing a failure using a hair dryer (on low) pointed at different modules to try and see which one reacts. Do not use a heat gun, too hot.

I got a code for P1690 during failure (Immobilizer Smartra No Response) along with, U1000 (General Device Error) and O1623 (CAN Time-Out Steering Angle Sensor - History Code) I was removing pieces of trim to check connections and the key fob holder connector will not unplug not matter how hard i tried without breaking it, I know it used to unplug because I've replaced the head unit and wrapped the wood paneling in fake carbon fiber overlay

 

[Tinytanya]

I got a code for P1690 during failure (Immobilizer Smartra No Response) along with, U1000 (General Device Error) and O1623 (CAN Time-Out Steering Angle Sensor - History Code) I was removing pieces of trim to check connections and the key fob holder connector will not unplug not matter how hard i tried without breaking it, I know it used to unplug because I've replaced the head unit and wrapped the wood paneling in fake carbon fiber overlay

 

[Tinytanya]

I have the same exact problem with my 2010 sedan 4.6L V8 I bought used from auction last year. I thought it could possibly be a fuse because my cigarette lighter and USB ports no longer work. I have many theories but I began having this problem after I ran the vehicle out of gas. Now since I never no when it’s going to start I leave the car running everywhere I go. I now smell a strong gas smell inside the vehicle after I leave it running in park while shopping. Maybe a gas line or sensor? Is it possible to change the fuel filter in this vehicle without replacing the fuel pump? Also I read in the Manuel it also has a fuel tank air filter that they suggest to replace every 15,000 miles. Is that something easy to replace