Change Headlights WITHOUT removing bumper!!

[PINGGOLF]

Thats Right!

30 Min. TOPS for anyone who has a tid bit of common sense!

For me...22 min!! The wife was at work for the weekend and I was in charge of our 5 month old. So...it had to be quick. Luckily enough, she was content in her bouncer! YES...I had a monitor!

1.) Open Hood (If you did not think that this was the first step...STOP...do not try to do this! HA!)
2.) remove the front plastic shroud by removing 2 Screws and 6-10 fasteners. To remove the fasteners simply take an ice pick or SMALL screwdriver and push the dot DOWN and then lift the black fastener out.
3.) Remove the front AIR intake. Should just pull out...EASILY as it is not attached to anything. It may even come out when you pull off the plastic shroud.
4.) Remove the air box. Unscrew clamp, unhook the MAF by removing the GREY plastic piece FIRST on the bottom side...then pull the electrical connection! Next Remove the TOP section of the airbox and remove the filter. Next remove 1 screw in the back of the airbox and then 2 screws in the front of the box. Then pull it out.
5.) Unscrew the 2 black nuts on the power steering fluid reservoir and move it over. NOT ENOUGH TO TURN IT OVER but to get it out of the way.
6.) Unscrew the BIG BLACK PLASTIC cover on the low beam.
7.) Now your ready to R&R the HID light.

you will need:
-SMALL-1/4 ratchet
-4 inch 1/4 extension
-1/4 socket
-Hex head phillips head bit to go into the 1/4 socket.
----in place of the last 2 items, if you have a phillips head SOCKET...it would be perfect!
-TAPE...this can be gift wrap tape!

****The HID bulbs MOVE....LEFT AND RIGHT! You can move them slowly to where you can get both screws into the best position as needed for removal. Keep in mind, they will AUTO ADJUST the second you crank the car****

8.) Remove BOTH screws from the bulb retainer. (This is a BIG METAL CLIP that holds the bulbs in place) ***DO NOT DROP A SCREW...OR YOUR SCREWED*** Use your fingers along with the ratchet. Once the screw can be turned by hand, remove the ratchet and just use the extension to get it all the way loose. then carefully use your fingers to extrude the screw from the retainer. The next screw...loosen...but remove WITH THE BRACKET to aid in keeping control of the screw.

9.) Remove bulb. Once removed LOOK at the OEM bulb. You will see a Spring like SEAL. ****KEEP THIS SEAL AND INSTALL ON YOUR NEW BULBS****

10.) After spring seal is installed on new bulb, install the bulb. ****PAY CLOSE ATTENTION TO THIS STEP**** Put your first screw in the bracket and secure with a small piece of tape making sure not to cover the phillips drive of the screw...trust me, it can be done! Install the bracket as it was originally. For the other screw...PUT THE SCREW ON THE TIP OF YOUR PHILLIPS HEAD DRIVE and wrap the head with a about a 2 inch piece of tape to secure the screw to the drive. Install screw and tighten both down.

11.) Your done with the passengers side. Reinstall the plastic low beam cover, power steering fluid reservoir, and airbox.

12.) DRIVERS SIDE...remove the black cover on the fuse box located right where you need to be.

13.) Remove 2 screws in the back and 1 in the front that hold the fuse box in place. Next, slide the box to the left...towards the engine.

14.) Remove the low beam cover and proceed again with steps 8, 9, and 10.

15.) once the bulb is installed, reinstall the fuse box, the front air intake, the huge plastic shroud and your done.

****MAKE SURE BOTH LIGHTS WORK BEFORE RE-INSTALLING ANYTHING!!!***

They will not AUTO ADJUST until the car is cranked!

Any questions...Holler! I just saved you $200! Donations are accepted! HA!

 

[ilovemygenesis]

Thats Right!

30 Min. TOPS for anyone who has a tid bit of common sense!

For me...22 min!! The wife was at work for the weekend and I was in charge of our 5 month old. So...it had to be quick. Luckily enough, she was content in her bouncer! YES...I had a monitor!

1.) Open Hood (If you did not think that this was the first step...STOP...do not try to do this! HA!)
2.) remove the front plastic shroud by removing 2 Screws and 6-10 fasteners. To remove the fasteners simply take an ice pick or SMALL screwdriver and push the dot DOWN and then lift the black fastener out.
3.) Remove the front AIR intake. Should just pull out...EASILY as it is not attached to anything. It may even come out when you pull off the plastic shroud.
4.) Remove the air box. Unscrew clamp, unhook the MAF by removing the GREY plastic piece FIRST on the bottom side...then pull the electrical connection! Next Remove the TOP section of the airbox and remove the filter. Next remove 1 screw in the back of the airbox and then 2 screws in the front of the box. Then pull it out.
5.) Unscrew the 2 black nuts on the power steering fluid reservoir and move it over. NOT ENOUGH TO TURN IT OVER but to get it out of the way.
6.) Unscrew the BIG BLACK PLASTIC cover on the low beam.
7.) Now your ready to R&R the HID light.

you will need:
-SMALL-1/4 ratchet
-4 inch 1/4 extension
-1/4 socket
-Hex head phillips head bit to go into the 1/4 socket.
----in place of the last 2 items, if you have a phillips head SOCKET...it would be perfect!
-TAPE...this can be gift wrap tape!

****The HID bulbs MOVE....LEFT AND RIGHT! You can move them slowly to where you can get both screws into the best position as needed for removal. Keep in mind, they will AUTO ADJUST the second you crank the car****

8.) Remove BOTH screws from the bulb retainer. (This is a BIG METAL CLIP that holds the bulbs in place) ***DO NOT DROP A SCREW...OR YOUR SCREWED*** Use your fingers along with the ratchet. Once the screw can be turned by hand, remove the ratchet and just use the extension to get it all the way loose. then carefully use your fingers to extrude the screw from the retainer. The next screw...loosen...but remove WITH THE BRACKET to aid in keeping control of the screw.

9.) Remove bulb. Once removed LOOK at the OEM bulb. You will see a Spring like SEAL. ****KEEP THIS SEAL AND INSTALL ON YOUR NEW BULBS****

10.) After spring seal is installed on new bulb, install the bulb. ****PAY CLOSE ATTENTION TO THIS STEP**** Put your first screw in the bracket and secure with a small piece of tape making sure not to cover the phillips drive of the screw...trust me, it can be done! Install the bracket as it was originally. For the other screw...PUT THE SCREW ON THE TIP OF YOUR PHILLIPS HEAD DRIVE and wrap the head with a about a 2 inch piece of tape to secure the screw to the drive. Install screw and tighten both down.

11.) Your done with the passengers side. Reinstall the plastic low beam cover, power steering fluid reservoir, and airbox.

12.) DRIVERS SIDE...remove the black cover on the fuse box located right where you need to be.

13.) Remove 2 screws in the back and 1 in the front that hold the fuse box in place. Next, slide the box to the left...towards the engine.

14.) Remove the low beam cover and proceed again with steps 8, 9, and 10.

15.) once the bulb is installed, reinstall the fuse box, the front air intake, the huge plastic shroud and your done.

****MAKE SURE BOTH LIGHTS WORK BEFORE RE-INSTALLING ANYTHING!!!***

They will not AUTO ADJUST until the car is cranked!

Any questions...Holler! I just saved you $200! Donations are accepted! HA!

Thaks for the detailed instructions, i'm not into changing the lights myself but it's good to know i can if needed. One question, can i use the same steps to raise the lights? As it is now, the lights shine more to the ground then i want, i want to raise it a couple of inches but i'm concerned about messing something up.


Thanks,

 

[PINGGOLF]

Thaks for the detailed instructions, i'm not into changing the lights myself but it's good to know i can if needed. One question, can i use the same steps to raise the lights? As it is now, the lights shine more to the ground then i want, i want to raise it a couple of inches but i'm concerned about messing something up.


Thanks,

Sure!

Non of these steps will help you adjust your headlights!

ITS EVEN EASIER!

Just get a LONG Phillips head screwdriver! 12 inches PLUS!

Open the hood and look on both sides. You will see a hole in the vicinity of the headlights. On the plastic you will see the letters U and D with arrows.

Insert your LONG driver and twist accordingly.

***BE MINDFUL that the gears are plastic. Make sure the Phillips head is seated securely before turning. If you feel as if you are not seated well...STOP! and re-insert the driver again.***

Hope this helps!

 

[ilovemygenesis]

Sure!

Non of these steps will help you adjust your headlights!

ITS EVEN EASIER!

Just get a LONG Phillips head screwdriver! 12 inches PLUS!

Open the hood and look on both sides. You will see a hole in the vicinity of the headlights. On the plastic you will see the letters U and D with arrows.

Insert your LONG driver and twist accordingly.

***BE MINDFUL that the gears are plastic. Make sure the Phillips head is seated securely before turning. If you feel as if you are not seated well...STOP! and re-insert the driver again.***

Hope this helps!

Sounds great, i'll check it out tonight when i get home

______________________________

 

[jonah]

wow good info PINGGOLF! I always thought it was probably possible to get to the D1S bulbs without removing the whole bumper. Especially after I did take the whole bumper off to get to them. Your procedure sounds involved but I might give it a try if I decide to go back to the factory bulbs. My 6000K burners are still working fine and look good but are definitely dimmer. Without the fog lights (also HID now) they really aren't bright enough for me.

You mentioned a "Spring like SEAL" that was on the factory bulbs. Do you mean that coil going around the black plastic base of the bulb? I didn't put that on the new ones I installed; do you think it supports the bulb? I haven't noticed a problem.

What kind of bulbs did you put in!?

I notice that the factory bulbs say Philips XenStart. The pair I got from Ebay don't say anything on them. I have always wondered if I really got a cheap pair and that is contributing to the dim light, or if all 6000Ks are going to be the same.

Good to hear from you again, been a while since I've been on the boards.

 

[blasterguam]

6000K refers to 6000 Kelvin color temperature, designating ONLY the color of the light and has nothing to do with the amount of light it generates. Your 6000K lights should be slightly blue in color based on their temperature rating.

The amount of light output will have a significant impact on the price, so if you think you really took a killer offer, then I'm guessing they don't look real bright because they probably are not. Just off the top of my head I'm thinking that you should be careful that the lights you put in meet both OEM and NTSC standards for the lumens or foot candles of brightness they put out. I'd hate for you to get in trouble for them, or worse yet have a problem because your path wasn't well illuminated.

By the way - thanks for making the post...I agree this has been a good subject while it lasted.

 

[PINGGOLF]

You mentioned a "Spring like SEAL" that was on the factory bulbs. Do you mean that coil going around the black plastic base of the bulb? I didn't put that on the new ones I installed; do you think it supports the bulb? I haven't noticed a problem.

Yes! Im not sure as to the purpose of it...but I put it back. I reckon that if you got a tight fit on the clip without it...than you shouldnt need it.

What kind of bulbs did you put in!?

Well...I went the super cheap route. I also got the 6000k as well from http://www.65dollarhidkits.com

The look GREAT...but the light output SUCKS!

Then I went cruising around the forum here and found that someone had mentioned that the Genesis uses the 55W version of HID's. Now I wonder if that is the reason they are so dim. I put the exact same lights in my RX400h that evening as well and they are 10 times as bright.

I will see what I can dig up on this.

I notice that the factory bulbs say Philips XenStart. The pair I got from Ebay don't say anything on them. I have always wondered if I really got a cheap pair and that is contributing to the dim light, or if all 6000Ks are going to be the same.

Yeah, mine said 6000K but that was about it.

On a side note...we are headed up to Olive Branch during Christmas...that is, if my wife can get off work for the Holidays....

 

[scottdk]

wow good info PINGGOLF! I always thought it was probably possible to get to the D1S bulbs without removing the whole bumper. Especially after I did take the whole bumper off to get to them. Your procedure sounds involved but I might give it a try if I decide to go back to the factory bulbs. My 6000K burners are still working fine and look good but are definitely dimmer. Without the fog lights (also HID now) they really aren't bright enough for me.

You mentioned a "Spring like SEAL" that was on the factory bulbs. Do you mean that coil going around the black plastic base of the bulb? I didn't put that on the new ones I installed; do you think it supports the bulb? I haven't noticed a problem.

What kind of bulbs did you put in!?

I notice that the factory bulbs say Philips XenStart. The pair I got from Ebay don't say anything on them. I have always wondered if I really got a cheap pair and that is contributing to the dim light, or if all 6000Ks are going to be the same.

Good to hear from you again, been a while since I've been on the boards.

The most light output/Lumens is 4300K which is the OEM HID in cars equipped with HID. THis is due to having the most light output at this color temp. This is why I went with 4300K for my fog lights. I couldn't see crap from my stock fogs which i had a 5500K bulb installed. Terrible. One thing that is amazing is my high beams. I swapped them out for a pair of Sylvania Silverstar Ultra's from amazon for $20 and wow. The best light for just a bulb change. Perfect for the high beams.

______________________________

 

[jonah]

Well...I went the super cheap route. I also got the 6000k as well from http://www.65dollarhidkits.com

The look GREAT...but the light output SUCKS!

Then I went cruising around the forum here and found that someone had mentioned that the Genesis uses the 55W version of HID's. Now I wonder if that is the reason they are so dim. I put the exact same lights in my RX400h that evening as well and they are 10 times as bright.

I will see what I can dig up on this.

This definitely has my attention now. I just bet that there is something going on here, something more than just the reduced light output that you'd expect going from 4300K to 6000K. I always suspected there had to be a reason why my 6000K fog light are SUPER BRIGHT, but the 6000K D1S (much more expensive, I might add) are dim dim dim. Somewhere, someone knows the answer to this one, now we just have to find out.

I'll go back and buy a slightly more expensive 6000K D1S bulb if that's the problem, but only if we can be sure it is. I'm still using the factory ballast, as I'm sure you are, so maybe there is some incompatability between bulb and ballast? 35W vs. 55W? Or maybe we both got old bulbs? I've learned that all HIDs get dimmer, bluer with age...

As I side note, I'm going to look into the Sylvania bulbs mentioned above, I changed my high beams out with a HID kit and I DON'T RECOMMEND it! It was hard to do, isn't a whole lot brighter, takes 5 seconds to light up (so no flash-to-pass), and chages the radio source to the USB drive every time I light them (even after changing from old large ballast to new digital ones). I am taking them out, might use the kit on something else or just eat it. It was a little experiment and the results are in, don't waste your time!

If you do end up in Olive Branch around xmas, let me know! Maybe we can meet for dinner at your favorite japanese restaurant

 

[jonah]

Well I finally gave up on the dopey 6000K D1S bulbs and tried your method, PINGGOLF, for replacing them without taking off the bumper. I went back to the factory Xenstart 4300Ks.

It was pretty tight, very delicate and nerve wracking at times, but I managed to change them out without dropping a screw or anything. I can see again! I don't have to have the fogs on just go get around town. The white color is gone but I don't really care much about that anymore. The factory bulbs also produce a smoother light pattern than my 6000Ks did.

I want LED main beam lights now Like the Escalade Platinum... Guess it may be a few years before that technology is ready for Genesis-level cars...


p.s. if anybody wants a set of gently used 6000K D1S bulbs I'll make you a great deal.

 

[PINGGOLF]

Well I finally gave up on the dopey 6000K D1S bulbs and tried your method, PINGGOLF, for replacing them without taking off the bumper. I went back to the factory Xenstart 4300Ks.

It was pretty tight, very delicate and nerve wracking at times, but I managed to change them out without dropping a screw or anything. I can see again! I don't have to have the fogs on just go get around town. The white color is gone but I don't really care much about that anymore. The factory bulbs also produce a smoother light pattern than my 6000Ks did.

I want LED main beam lights now Like the Escalade Platinum... Guess it may be a few years before that technology is ready for Genesis-level cars...


p.s. if anybody wants a set of gently used 6000K D1S bulbs I'll make you a great deal.

I dumped mine too and put the stocks back in. The difference is AMAZING! However, I am still perplexed as to why they were not as bright... As a refresher, I purchased the same bulbs for my RX400h and they are only SLIGHTLY dimmer than stock but in the Genesis, it is night and day????

Merry Christmas!

 

[Sayantsi]

For one, manufacturers and resellers seem to claim a bit of leeway in their actual bulb temps, but the bigger factor is that the brightest bulbs are between 4300K and 5000K - they best imitate natural daylight and intensity. As you go higher in the temp range, 6000k=12000k the bulbs get bluer and the actual lumens decreases. 3000k-4000k are yellower but put off better light. I have 5000K in my Genesis and 4300K in my other car, and I think the 4300K are noticeably brighter (and yellower) even in this small range. Its like the difference between the sun at early morning (5000K) and mid afternoon (4300K).

There's also the possibility that the Lexus system uses 55W while the Hyundai uses 35W, I don't know, so that would explain brightness differences.

______________________________

 

[ck2118]

Does anyone have pics of this they can post?

Thanks!

 

[anewway]

Thats Right!

30 Min. TOPS for anyone who has a tid bit of common sense!

For me...22 min!! The wife was at work for the weekend and I was in charge of our 5 month old. So...it had to be quick. Luckily enough, she was content in her bouncer! YES...I had a monitor!

1.) Open Hood (If you did not think that this was the first step...STOP...do not try to do this! HA!)
2.) remove the front plastic shroud by removing 2 Screws and 6-10 fasteners. To remove the fasteners simply take an ice pick or SMALL screwdriver and push the dot DOWN and then lift the black fastener out.
3.) Remove the front AIR intake. Should just pull out...EASILY as it is not attached to anything. It may even come out when you pull off the plastic shroud.
4.) Remove the air box. Unscrew clamp, unhook the MAF by removing the GREY plastic piece FIRST on the bottom side...then pull the electrical connection! Next Remove the TOP section of the airbox and remove the filter. Next remove 1 screw in the back of the airbox and then 2 screws in the front of the box. Then pull it out.
5.) Unscrew the 2 black nuts on the power steering fluid reservoir and move it over. NOT ENOUGH TO TURN IT OVER but to get it out of the way.
6.) Unscrew the BIG BLACK PLASTIC cover on the low beam.
7.) Now your ready to R&R the HID light.

you will need:
-SMALL-1/4 ratchet
-4 inch 1/4 extension
-1/4 socket
-Hex head phillips head bit to go into the 1/4 socket.
----in place of the last 2 items, if you have a phillips head SOCKET...it would be perfect!
-TAPE...this can be gift wrap tape!

****The HID bulbs MOVE....LEFT AND RIGHT! You can move them slowly to where you can get both screws into the best position as needed for removal. Keep in mind, they will AUTO ADJUST the second you crank the car****

8.) Remove BOTH screws from the bulb retainer. (This is a BIG METAL CLIP that holds the bulbs in place) ***DO NOT DROP A SCREW...OR YOUR SCREWED*** Use your fingers along with the ratchet. Once the screw can be turned by hand, remove the ratchet and just use the extension to get it all the way loose. then carefully use your fingers to extrude the screw from the retainer. The next screw...loosen...but remove WITH THE BRACKET to aid in keeping control of the screw.

9.) Remove bulb. Once removed LOOK at the OEM bulb. You will see a Spring like SEAL. ****KEEP THIS SEAL AND INSTALL ON YOUR NEW BULBS****

10.) After spring seal is installed on new bulb, install the bulb. ****PAY CLOSE ATTENTION TO THIS STEP**** Put your first screw in the bracket and secure with a small piece of tape making sure not to cover the phillips drive of the screw...trust me, it can be done! Install the bracket as it was originally. For the other screw...PUT THE SCREW ON THE TIP OF YOUR PHILLIPS HEAD DRIVE and wrap the head with a about a 2 inch piece of tape to secure the screw to the drive. Install screw and tighten both down.

11.) Your done with the passengers side. Reinstall the plastic low beam cover, power steering fluid reservoir, and airbox.

12.) DRIVERS SIDE...remove the black cover on the fuse box located right where you need to be.

13.) Remove 2 screws in the back and 1 in the front that hold the fuse box in place. Next, slide the box to the left...towards the engine.

14.) Remove the low beam cover and proceed again with steps 8, 9, and 10.

15.) once the bulb is installed, reinstall the fuse box, the front air intake, the huge plastic shroud and your done.

****MAKE SURE BOTH LIGHTS WORK BEFORE RE-INSTALLING ANYTHING!!!***

They will not AUTO ADJUST until the car is cranked!

Any questions...Holler! I just saved you $200! Donations are accepted! HA!

The phillips driver in a 1/4 inch ratchet is the key, those are self tapping screws, and they are TIGHT from the factory! And of course the stupid housing moves on you, so if you try to push hard with a regular screw driver, the unit will rotate out of your way and you risk scripping the screw head.

Unfortunately for me, replacing the light didn't do the trick! I still have a low beam out (driver's side) and the AFLS light is blinking on the dash.

I noticed that the parking light is temperamental as well, I have to hit the headlight housing to get it to come on. The high beams work, and the side light works.