Changing spark plugs

[chrev]

I have a 2011 4.6 with 110K miles and I am just now getting around to changing the spark plugs. To those that have done this before were the plugs hard to remove. I have only done 3 so far and they were tough to get out. Almost had to get a 1/2 inch wrench for leverage.

 

[OUsig]

I did in my car about 1 year ago and it was very easy, used a 3/8 wrench for it all

 

[Ducatislave]

If they were the factory original plugs (or someone changed them without thread lube) then a hard removal at that mileage is not surprising. Factory assembly lines rarely use anti seize on items like that. Fords were the worst for that. So steel into an AL head and no lube = hard to loosen. Remember for spark plugs and exhaust fasteners use the copper anti-seize not the silver crap. and dont forget a liberal amount of dielectric grease inside of the CoP boot as well as the connector, it keeps moisture out, prevents arching, keeps the boot rubber soft and helps with ease of removal the next time. Hope this helps.

 

[OUsig]

If they were the factory original plugs (or someone changed them without thread lube) then a hard removal at that mileage is not surprising. Factory assembly lines rarely use anti seize on items like that. Fords were the worst for that. So steel into an AL head and no lube = hard to loosen. Remember for spark plugs and exhaust fasteners use the copper anti-seize not the silver crap. and dont forget a liberal amount of dielectric grease inside of the CoP boot as well as the connector, it keeps moisture out, prevents arching, keeps the boot rubber soft and helps with ease of removal the next time. Hope this helps.

Not sure why you would think these are tough unless you have done them also? Honestly again, I did mine at about 90,000 miles and the only hard part was getting to the plug on the passenger side against the firewall. None of them were very tight, same as I would replace with new plugs. I agree with putting some dielectric lube inside the boot

I used the OEM plugs (NGK is the maker) and here is a picture of my OEM plugs after I removed them.

 

[chrev]

By tough i meant they were stuck in the head. I had to use liquid wrench and a pipe on spark plug #7 on the driver side. Overall the engine layout is well designed. In my experience none of them were hard to remove. The mofo in cylinder 7 on was the hardest due to that little bracket on the end.