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Complete loss of power (electrical )

Rob C

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Genesis Model Type
2G Genesis Sedan (2015-2016)
anyone ever come up with an answer to this intermittent electrical shut down, and then it comes back on later.
 
Replace the visible link box on the positive battery post
Thanks for your reply, I see two a 60 and a 100 which one did you change, Thanks again Rob
 
Thanks for your reply, I see two a 60 and a 100 which one did you change, Thanks again Rob
I should have said 80 nd 100, where did you find these fuses, local dealer said you cant buy them, parts stores to
 
Its the box attached to the positive battery terminal. It will have a couple wires connected to it along with the positive battery cable. Not sure of the part number but its definitely a weak point and a cause for a lot of problems.
 
Did you end up replacing this and has it worked?
These fuses usually are not the issue. They can be sourced on Amazon from Blue Sea if you really want to replace them, called MIDI/AMI fuses.

The most likely cause is your positive battery ring has worn out and doesn't maintain contact correctly.
 
These fuses usually are not the issue. They can be sourced on Amazon from Blue Sea if you really want to replace them, called MIDI/AMI fuses.

The most likely cause is your positive battery ring has worn out and
These fuses usually are not the issue. They can be sourced on Amazon from Blue Sea if you really want to replace them, called MIDI/AMI fuses.

The most likely cause is your positive battery ring has worn out and doesn't maintain contact correctly.
This issue will be fine for months... then reappears as is worse when stealing wheel is turned fast when stopped or almost stopped. I can't see why that would lead to the battery ring. So frustrating... been chasing this for 4 years now
 
What you are describing is the ring terminal being defective. If your power steering is shuddering, car electronics cutting out or otherwise not working perfectly, you have a battery power problem. The terminal has little teeth that are supposed to engage the battery post, but after years of vibrations and large power draws they break down and the terminal will never be able to tighten enough. The easiest solution is to replace the terminal- a $20 part but some modification may be required because what you can source will not be the same as what's in the box (Hyundai sells it for $1400).

Your power steering runs off the battery, not the engine. It also does not go through the fuses on the battery, it goes down the big fat cable to the front of the car.

 
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What you are describing is the ring terminal being defective. If your power steering is shuddering, car electronics cutting out or otherwise not working perfectly, you have a battery power problem. The terminal has little teeth that are supposed to engage the battery post, but after years of vibrations and large power draws they break down and the terminal will never be able to tighten enough. The easiest solution is to replace the terminal- a $20 part but some modification may be required because what you can source will not be the same as what's in the box (Hyundai sells it for $1400).

Your power steering runs off the battery, not the engine. It also does not go through the fuses on the battery, it goes down the big fat cable to the front of the car.

Yeah. That makes sense. Will give that a go. Thanks for the follow-up.
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@Suburbazine - did you try adding some metal to the OEM part to help with the slack before swapping out the entire terminal? I wonder if some copper around the battery post would suffice
 
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@Suburbazine - did you try adding some metal to the OEM part to help with the slack before swapping out the entire terminal? I wonder if some copper around the battery post would suffice
The battery terminal carries weight of anything in the trunk. So adding copper wrap just makes it slip more frequently- and the conductivity of the foil isn't high enough and causes more arcing. The power steering is a constant surging 100+ amps of current draw at low speeds and any inefficiency shows up quickly.
 
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