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Cracked Cylinder head 2013 Genesis 125k miles

  • Thread author Thread author G-115935
  • Start date Start date
G

G-115935

Went in for a repair for cyliner 6 misfire. After spark plug and coil replacement, still had same issue. Next step was to replace fuel injector but still had same issue. Now dealer is saying potential cracked cylinder head is the issue. $4-7k to fix. Does this sound right? Am I screwed? Is the car toast? Seems to me that Hyundai would have some culpability in this, but maybe I am wrong?
 
Has the car ever overheated? Also a salvage part or engine may be cheaper along with an indie shop doing the repair.
 
Cracked heads are not a common problem on our cars. In fact I don't remember any time such a problem has ever been posted on these forums in 8 years. If a head was cracked you would see milky oil, coolant smell in the exhaust, coolant loss, oil loss, or an external oil or water leak... all of them verifiable by you without a mechanic.

Broken valve spring (most probable) or bad head gasket (less probable) is more likely. I presume you are not the original owner and did not purchase an extended warranty? If so, then forget the dealer; they're just gouging you because they think you'll let them. Remember, in modern times dealers make zilch on new car sales, so such repairs are HUGE profit centers for dealers.

Just find a competent local shop... might poke around in the Genny COUPE forums and social media sites for intel. Lots more aftermarket engine mod work is done on V6 coupes than our luxobarges. Any good mechanic can change a head gasket or replace a valve spring on any car. The ones with more experience working on Hyundais will take less time (not learning on your car) and thus cost you less.
 
+1 on valve spring probably being the culprit, don't use the dealer for repair
 
Several fairly simple tests can be done by any repair shop to verify head or head gasket issues:
1: basic compression test. If one cylinder is markedly lower than others that indicates a mechanical problem. A leak-down test can narrow the possibilities. Usually though significant labor is involved in the repair.

2: cylinder leak-down test: like a compression test but done slower. Air is pumped into the spark plug hole while the piston is at Top Dead Center (TDC) - i.e. at the very top of the compression stroke and ready for the spark to start the combustion stroke. The rate the air leaks out indicates if there are problems. If the leaking air comes out the tailpipe, that indicates a bad or poor-sealing exhaust valve. Air coming out the oil fill port indicates piston ring issues or leaks in the head gasket. Air bubbles appearing in the radiator indicate cracks in the head or a leaking head gasket. Air coming out the throttle inlet points to intake valve issues. A cylinder with poor leak-down results indicates mechanical failures that, again, are labor intensive to repair.

3: cooling system pressure test: pressurize the cooling system and see if it holds pressure... if not, where is it going? Into the engine via cracks? The leak could dump coolant into the oil which will kill an engine quickly. The leak could be into one cylinder... that should result in a really clean (steam-cleaned) spark plug. If either is true, it again indicates mechanical failures and costly repairs.

Valve spring issues are fairly obvious once the valve covers are removed. That's not too much work to do/to check and would be part of repairs for the above tests anyways.

Without doing those tests, anything else is guesswork. Other things that can trigger a misfire OBD-II error code are:
1: spark plug wire or wire feeding the coil bad.

2: coil pack or ignition coil for that cylinder. Replaced already yet problem persists? Swap with another cylinder to see if the error code follows. If so, it's the swapped parts. If not, it's something else. New parts can be defective too. Rare but it does happen, or they could have been improperly installed.

3: poor electrical connections at injectors, at the PCM (engine computer), at the coils, etc. Just re-seating connectors often helps but really eyeballing them for corrosion is better. Verify the metal parts have enough "spring" to grip tightly too. Bad crimps between the individual wires and the connector parts are difficult to locate and are not uncommon.

4: failing PCM. My 2009 V8/Tech just experienced this. Intermittent misfires and stalling when cold. Then a mega-rich event (filled my garage with black smoke). It took a couple weeks to even locate a new PCM which,. for a 10 year old car, is not encouraging. So far (two days now) my car has been okay again. Dirty contacts on the PCM itself can lead to issues as well. I'm wondering if lousy solder joints (cold solder joints) and/or vibration may have caused my PCM issue. Each fuel injector and ignition coil connects to a "driver" circuit in the PCM; the "computer" part of the PCM can be 100% healthy but a bad driver will result in one problematic cylinder. The PCM can't detect if the misfire is a PCM-issue or an issue in the injectors, ignition coil, wiring, head gasket, etc. It can only detect "something ain't right with cylinder x."

mike c.
 
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