Crankshaft pulley sheared off

[Smoekim]

So my harmonic balancer decided it wanted to part ways with my 2013 Genesis 5.0 r-spec. Has anyone experienced this problem? Should I be worried there may be internal engine damage?

Yesterday on the way to work the battery light started blinking and the charging system warning popped up. Everything else was working as it should and the car had no loss of power so I assumed the alternator went bad. After work I drove it 15 miles back home, again no issues except the battery light.

I get to the exit before my house and start to smell coolant, my temp gauge was below the halfway mark, turn onto my street and I hear a clunk. I popped the hood saw that the belt had slipped off the pulley and left it for the night since it was getting dark. This morning I did some investigating and found the harmonic balancer had sheared off.

The car only has 82k miles and I do keep up on the maintenance.

 

[Husky]

Wow! I've never seen that before. Your title says "Under drive pulley". Was this an aftermarket piece?
The harmonic balancer, as you probably know, is required to prevent damage to the crankshaft due to rotational harmonics, but I don't know how long that takes to be an issue (or at what RPMs). My guess is you'll probably be fine after replacing the balancer.

 

[joegr]

I would be concerned about the possibility that it overheated. With the water pump not being driven, the coolant temperature on the gauge may not have represented the actual engine temperature, since coolant was not circulating. Ford switched to using (on some engines anyway) a cylinder head temperature sensor for the gauge so that there would still be accurate temp readings with no coolant or no circulation. They also added failsafe cooling, something I wish that all engines had.

 

[Smoekim]

Wow! I've never seen that before. Your title says "Under drive pulley". Was this an aftermarket piece?
The harmonic balancer, as you probably know, is required to prevent damage to the crankshaft due to rotational harmonics, but I don't know how long that takes to be an issue (or at what RPMs). My guess is you'll probably be fine after replacing the balancer.n

No, it's not aftermarket. My worry is that it may have damaged the crankshaft. I'm going to take a closer look this weekend.

 

[Smoekim]

I would be concerned about the possibility that it overheated. With the water pump not being driven, the coolant temperature on the gauge may not have represented the actual engine temperature, since coolant was not circulating. Ford switched to using (on some engines anyway) a cylinder head temperature sensor for the gauge so that there would still be accurate temp readings with no coolant or no circulation. They also added failsafe cooling, something I wish that all engines had.

I'm assuming it did overheat a bit - some coolant puked out of the overflow. It was about a 15 mile drive home and was around 55 degrees, so hopefully bo damage done.

I'm kicking myself in the ass for not simply checking under the hood before leaving work. If I saw the damn belt was off I would have had her towed home.

 

[joegr]

No, it's not aftermarket. My worry is that it may have damaged the crankshaft. I'm going to take a closer look this weekend.

I'm curious as to why you said under drive then?

 

[Smoekim]

I'm curious as to why you said under drive then?

I'm curious as to why you said under drive then?

Just a mistake, I edited the title for you buddy.

 

[JEBIV]

The center piece seems like it would still be bolted to the crank. That's a good thing because there is unlikely any damage to the crank.

 

[joegr]

The center piece seems like it would still be bolted to the crank. That's a good thing because there is unlikely any damage to the crank.

I found these pictures of what it is supposed to look like.

Did it break off at startup? It seems like it would have done a lot of damage if it had flown apart at speed. I've seen dampers (other car brands) separate where the rubber part in the middle is, and they often do some damage to the nearby parts. This is the first that I've seen where the inner part broke.

 

[Smoekim]

I found these pictures of what it is supposed to look like.

Did it break off at startup? It seems like it would have done a lot of damage if it had flown apart at speed. I've seen dampers (other car brands) separate where the rubber part in the middle is, and they often do some damage to the nearby parts. This is the first that I've seen where the inner part broke.

The center hub with the bolt is still attached to the crank.

It didn't break off at startup or at least I'm not aware it did. I didn't hear a loud noise at startup and there isn't any damage to the nearby pulleys or in the engine bay.

I heard a clunk as I was turning onto my street going about 5 mph. I'm assuming it broke off at that point.

After taking a closer look at the pulley it looks like it was hanging on by 1 of the 4 connections at hub. If you take a look at my original photo the top connector is clean, the one to the right is a bit dirty and the lower and left
look like they may have been broken for awhile.

The new hub came in and I'll post more photos and an update once I swap them - if anyone is looking for Hyundai oem parts Albert Hwang on Facebook can get parts for a damn good deal.

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[jimmy buoy]

How are you going to get a puller onto the remaining part of the balancer to remove it? Could be a challenge...

 

[Smoekim]

How are you going to get a puller onto the remaining part of the balancer to remove it? Could be a challenge...

The remainder of the pulley slid right off with no issues. The new one slid right on as well and rhe bolt gets torqued down to 296 ft-lbs to keep the pulley from going anywhere.

 

[jimmy buoy]

The remainder of the pulley slid right off with no issues. The new one slid right on as well and rhe bolt gets torqued down to 296 ft-lbs to keep the pulley from going anywhere'

Glad to hear it was that easy! Assumed it was like most that are a press fit and need a puller to be removed.

 

[tCizzler]

I'm curious as to why you said under drive then?

It's clearly not an underdrive pulley. There's a picture of it. Underdrive pulleys are generally just aluminum. This is steel with a rubber damper ring built in. Not something the aftermarket concerns themselves with.

 

[joegr]

It's clearly not an underdrive pulley. There's a picture of it. Underdrive pulleys are generally just aluminum. This is steel with a rubber damper ring built in. Not something the aftermarket concerns themselves with.

Did you read the whole thread? I never thought it was underdrive, and the OP sort of explained that he made a bad assumption about what the damper pulley was called.
AFAIK, no one does the crankshaft damper as an underdrive. That wouldn't make any sense. Some replace the water pump, alternator, other driven pulleys with undersized pulleys, not the drive pulley. That would be going in the wrong direction for what they are trying to achieve.

 

[tCizzler]

Did you read the whole thread? I never thought it was underdrive, and the OP sort of explained that he made a bad assumption about what the damper pulley was called.
AFAIK, no one does the crankshaft damper as an underdrive. That wouldn't make any sense. Some replace the water pump, alternator, other driven pulleys with undersized pulleys, not the drive pulley. That would be going in the wrong direction for what they are trying to achieve.

Yes, I read the whole thread. And maybe edits were made for clarification before I read it that could explain why there was confusion. But when I started reading, I saw "crankshaft pulley", "harmonic balancer", and even showed a picture of it, and there were still posts questioning if it was aftermarket, and why did he call it an underdrive pulley.

 

[Husky]

Did you read the whole thread? I never thought it was underdrive, and the OP sort of explained that he made a bad assumption about what the damper pulley was called.
AFAIK, no one does the crankshaft damper as an underdrive. That wouldn't make any sense. Some replace the water pump, alternator, other driven pulleys with undersized pulleys, not the drive pulley. That would be going in the wrong direction for what they are trying to achieve.

Correction. Assuming that the desired effect is more HP, and that by undersized you mean smaller diameter, then yes, you would want to undersize the crank pulley, which would slow down the speed of all the accessory drives, like alternator and PS pump. Plenty of aftermarket kits do just that.
The alternative is to increase the diameter of the various accessory pulleys in order to slow them down.

 

[pulsar]

Getting the bolt off and then retorq to specs should be fun. Let us know how that goes. I use a 3/4 inch impact to remove stubborn bolts and such, but keeping the crank from rotating to ease up to 296ft pounds with a torq wrench won’t be fun. You may have to wedge something on the flywheel end to hold things. I’ve seen little gizmos where you remove the starter and use the starter bolts to mount this gizmo that locks the flywheel from rotating. Hopefully you can find something like that.

 

[Smoekim]

Getting the bolt off and then retorq to specs should be fun. Let us know how that goes. I use a 3/4 inch impact to remove stubborn bolts and such, but keeping the crank from rotating to ease up to 296ft pounds with a torq wrench won’t be fun. You may have to wedge something on the flywheel end to hold things. I’ve seen little gizmos where you remove the starter and use the starter bolts to mount this gizmo that locks the flywheel from rotating. Hopefully you can find something like that.

I was able to get the bolt off using a milwaukee mid torque impact wrench with a Lisle 22mm harmonic balancer socket. To get it back on I did find a flywheel locking tool that bolts where the starter goes from Freedom Racing on eBay.