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Deprecation value

dudmleh522

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I own 2015 3.8 awd with 90k miles. I leased it out and purchased the lease. Currently i have $23k left on my loan And my car is worth about $14k my commute everyday is about 120 milles round trip. I am really considering getting a Tesla model 3. I know i am upside down at least $9k. Would i ever meet breaking even point? Or will my car depreciate even more if i continue to put those miles on?

If you compare it car for car

Genesis car payment + gas + maintance + registration + insurance costs more than tesla payment + electricity to charge at home + registration +
 
I own 2015 3.8 awd with 90k miles. I leased it out and purchased the lease. Currently i have $23k left on my loan And my car is worth about $14k my commute everyday is about 120 milles round trip. I am really considering getting a Tesla model 3. I know i am upside down at least $9k. Would i ever meet breaking even point? Or will my car depreciate even more if i continue to put those miles on?

If you compare it car for car

Genesis car payment + gas + maintance + registration + insurance costs more than tesla payment + electricity to charge at home + registration +
On the surface the Tesla seems cheaper. What about depreciation on it? What is the length of the loan for the Tesla? At 30K a year, will it last as long as the loan? What will it be worth at the end of the loan term?

What will you do with the Genesis? If you keep it as a second car you can catch up on the portion under water or you can wrap that into the Tesla loan and be even deeper, swimming with submarines.

There is not enough information to give you solid advice, but do be careful. You can end up in a few years driving a used Elantra and owing $50,000. I've seen similar situations and no easy way out.

I know what I would do. I'd pay as much as I could every month and retire the loan in about 18 months. You have a paid for Genesis with 135,000 miles. I'd continue to put money away for a good down payment on a car with a maximum of 48 payments.

Maybe for a few years the sensible thing is to drive a lower priced car with no more than a 48 month loan. I'd not lease with that many miles to prevent the situation you have now. Be careful, that low, low, monthly payment can be very expensive when you drive a lot of miles.
 
The problem IMO was buying out the lease. The lease was what 36 months, and then you financed it for another 60? Making it an 8 year loan on the vehicle.

Most vehicles lose 50%-60% by year 3 so if your lease buy out was more than 50% of the trade value at that point you were already upside down.

I feel for you, I got stuck in a Chrysler 300c SRT8 for the same reasons, a $45K car that I was barely able to get $10K for by year 7 and I still owed $9,500 on it. Lesson learned, never buy out a lease if it is worth less than the buyout amount, just get another car.

At this point you won’t be out from under the vehicle until probably year 6, so you either have to try and sell private, or cut your loses and take the hit.

If it were me I would hold out and bench the Tesla dream, while the monthly cost at this point might be less to own the Tesla if all things were equal, they are not and if you factor in the $9K you are upside down I suspect you will find that you aren’t really saving that much in the long term,.

And before you jump the gun, find out if charging at home is really cheaper, I did a fair amount of research on the Model S and Model 3 and the costs of ownership and found that for me it didn’t make sense, my overall savings was very minimal, in my area we have the 2nd highest per kWh rates in the country, my average electric bill without an electric car is $500 a month, my fuel is about $150. With 40 solar panels on my roof I reduced my electric bill to $10-$30 a month, but that was with a $30K investment up front that took me 5 years to re-coup. It’s all gravy now as far and house power is concerned.

Adding an Electric car to the mix for me would put my electric bill up to about $150-$180 a month, and I spend that in fuel for my car now, so not much savings there, but the cost of a Tesla for payment and insurance in significantly more than my G80, the insurance alone is nearly double as the Tesla’s are hella expensive to repair int he event of an accident, and the insurance nails you for it.
 
And before you jump the gun, find out if charging at home is really cheaper, I
Don’t forget the cost of installing 220 fast charging in your garage unless you are content waiting “forever” for it to recharge before you can drive again.
 
Yea when i leased the genesis i only had 20 miles one way commute but by year 2 i had to relocate so one way commute is 55 miles now and if i turned the lease i had to pay about $7000 in penalty and at that point i had no idea about tesla and was loved with the car so bought the car at residual price which was around 24k and i so have solar panels at home and if i charge during off peak hours it will be $0.05/kilowatt. I think if i am going to keep the genesis until it dies than i will be saving money but if i am planning to get tesla now or in near future either way i will be paying for it. Here is the chart i figured out take a look and see what you guys think.
4105D189-3E15-4987-BC16-B9F1BBAA73FD.webp
 
Fantastic Excel work! A few assumptions you need to resolve: service required on the Model 3 and any repairs needed outside of warranty.
 
Yea when i leased the genesis i only had 20 miles one way commute but by year 2 i had to relocate so one way commute is 55 miles now and if i turned the lease i had to pay about $7000 in penalty and at that point i had no idea about tesla and was loved with the car so bought the car at residual price which was around 24k and i so have solar panels at home and if i charge during off peak hours it will be $0.05/kilowatt. I think if i am going to keep the genesis until it dies than i will be saving money but if i am planning to get tesla now or in near future either way i will be paying for it. Here is the chart i figured out take a look and see what you guys think.
View attachment 22368

Something seems WAY off on your fuel pricing. 28,108 on fuel at 2.90/gal is 9692 gallons. Figure 23 MPG average, 24*9692: 222,916 miles? So keeping the car to 300,000 miles?

And take it or leave it...but I do not buy the Tesla cool aid. The only way their own cost of ownership estimates work out is if you assume the model 3 is going to depreciate like the S has over the past few years. But the S didn't depreciate because there simply was no other car you could buy remotely like it, and Tesla only made them in limited numbers. The 3 is mass produced, they are going to release the Y ( and the public just doesn't buy cars like they do crossovers) and every major manufacturer has a sedan and crossover coming in 2-4 years. They will not come close to the depreciation estimates Tesla is using.

And that's on top of the laundry list of quality issues they have, longevity issues, poor or total lack of service as the service centers are overwhelmed, and possibility you are buying a future orphan (if Tesla folds which is a real possibility) that will be worth virtually nothing as there is zero aftermarket parts support.


To each his own, but IMO it's a huge risk all around.
 
Something seems WAY off on your fuel pricing. 28,108 on fuel at 2.90/gal is 9692 gallons. Figure 23 MPG average, 24*9692: 222,916 miles? So keeping the car to 300,000 miles?

And take it or leave it...but I do not buy the Tesla cool aid. The only way their own cost of ownership estimates work out is if you assume the model 3 is going to depreciate like the S has over the past few years. But the S didn't depreciate because there simply was no other car you could buy remotely like it, and Tesla only made them in limited numbers. The 3 is mass produced, they are going to release the Y ( and the public just doesn't buy cars like they do crossovers) and every major manufacturer has a sedan and crossover coming in 2-4 years. They will not come close to the depreciation estimates Tesla is using.

And that's on top of the laundry list of quality issues they have, longevity issues, poor or total lack of service as the service centers are overwhelmed, and possibility you are buying a future orphan (if Tesla folds which is a real possibility) that will be worth virtually nothing as there is zero aftermarket parts support.


To each his own, but IMO it's a huge risk all around.

exactly, 300k miles later what can go wrong with the genesis and repair cost? Thats more money out of my pocket. Seems like either way i go i have to pay/make up extra $9000 in negative equity upfront or in payments
 
There is a LOT of chatter on the web about Tesla (as well as in the news). There are some youtube videos talking about common failures and a lot of apathy from Tesla. Teslas don't strike me as good high mileage cars. In a hybrid, WHEN the battery starts to wear down, you use more and more fuel but it will be slow and you might not notice for a while. On an all electric car, you'll certainly notice!

Yes it's a pain but you should be able to get THOUSANDS more if you sell your car yourself. I shopped for 3 months and found that dealers are shooting for $4000 to $5000 over true wholesale and until very recently have stuck to it. Take some nice pics and throw it up on Craigslist and a free ad on Cars.com.
 
Don't know about other states but in IL where they add taxes on top of taxes they are looking at adding a $1,000 annual EV tax to all the Tesla owners here. This is what bothers me about the EV's. I don't want to buy one and then down the road have the state start charging me a fee increasing my monthly cost.
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exactly, 300k miles later what can go wrong with the genesis and repair cost? Thats more money out of my pocket. Seems like either way i go i have to pay/make up extra $9000 in negative equity upfront or in payments

I think you are missing my point. Do you really plan to take any car to 300,000 miles? Have you ever before? 300k at your daily drive is nearly 10 years of life out of the car. Do you keep cars for 10 years? And Tesla fantasy resale or no...a 300K car from Tesla is worth the same as any other 300k car...close to nothing. nobody will want to buy it, it's used up.

TBH, and I have been in a close position to yours so far as commute in the past, if you really are concerned about these costs and really are going to put 30k+ miles on a car a year just for work, you aren't making a great decision buying any 20 or 30k USD car to do it in. Guess what I'm saying is, if cost is your primary concern why are you not buying a used Camry/sonata/Elantra/etc and getting 35+ mpg out of a 12-15K USD car that you know will be dead nuts reliable, cheap on insurance, etc etc?

I'm not saying you are wrong for wanting to spend that much time in a nicer car, but then if that's the motivation money is obviously less important.

I can tell you what I did, and what I would do again, if my commute went back to ,100~ miles a day. I bought a 13K Toyota and drove the tires off of it for 7 years, while having a weekend car in the garage for my fun/nice car. I didn't put a thing into it other than oil/tires and I didn't care when it got door dinged, if it wasn't waxed, or when the interior started showing wear etc.
 
I'm not saying you are wrong for wanting to spend that much time in a nicer car, but then if that's the motivation money is obviously less important.

I can tell you what I did, and what I would do again, if my commute went back to ,100~ miles a day. I bought a 13K Toyota and drove the tires off of it for 7 years, while having a weekend car in the garage for my fun/nice car. I didn't put a thing into it other than oil/tires and I didn't care when it got door dinged, if it wasn't waxed, or when the interior started showing wear etc.

Yep, unless money is not a concern, the cheap car is the best solution. I know one guy that finally got rid of his Corolla at 345,000 miles. I did the same with an Olds Cutlass. Not sure of the miles as the odometer stopped working at 182,000. Left work one day and it started, went 10 feet and died. Grabbed the company pickup and stopped and bought a new car on the way home.

As for Tesla, a German company, Next Move cancelled their 100 car order after taking delivery of 15. Quality problems.
 
I own 2015 3.8 awd with 90k miles. I leased it out and purchased the lease. Currently i have $23k left on my loan And my car is worth about $14k my commute everyday is about 120 milles round trip. I am really considering getting a Tesla model 3. I know i am upside down at least $9k. Would i ever meet breaking even point? Or will my car depreciate even more if i continue to put those miles on?

If you compare it car for car

Genesis car payment + gas + maintance + registration + insurance costs more than tesla payment + electricity to charge at home + registration +

Bro, what follows may sound preachy, and please forgive me if it does.

Some old adages apply here: (1) If you find yourself in a deep hole, stop digging. (2) (paraphrase from Dave Ramsey) "When you are young, live like nobody else so, when you are old, you can live like nobody else."

Back when J. Paul Getty was the world's richest man, a reporter asked him "Why do you drive a Chevy Bel Air when you can afford a Cadillac."
His response: "I didn't become the world's richest man by purchasing fast-depreciating assets."

Buying more (new) car than you can afford is one of the biggest financial mistakes you can make. And you made it once. Don't make it twice!

It seems like you chose 3 years ago to drive a car you probably shouldn't have bought. You leased the car, paid a ton of interest, and now find yourself underwater. So stop digging! Distinguish between your wants and your needs. You *want* the technology/hype Tesla. The reality is that
the car offers a very significant probability of lemon-hood, and has (as others have pointed out) significant hidden cost potential, not to mention a'
non-negligible potential for becoming an orphan. What you *need* is a safe, reliable car. Kia makes some cars that are great looking, reliable, and cheap. So does Honda.

In my youth, I drove incredible beaters until I could pay cash for a car. Then, when I could afford to cash buy, I drove Accords and a Maxima. At age 53 I was in a terrific Buick Park Avenue Ultra which I drove for 6 years, followed by an Accord 6 which I paid $21,300 for and drove for 6 years, and when it was totaled by another driver in 2010, State Farm gave me $13,000.

I paid $31,000 cash for a new 2010 base Genesis 3.8, drove it 5.5 years, and sold it to CarMax for $15,000. It was garaged indoors, washed every week or two, and looked (literally!) like new when I sold it. Now I'm in my second 2015 Genesis. Mine cost me $40,000US in Canada. Other than one parking lot ding, (easily fixed with paintless dent removal), it looks like new.

If you are on the highway for 100 miles a day, you need a safe, reliable car. Period. Create a 6 year plan. Buy an Accord and slap a Honda Care warranty on it, or drive your Genny until it drops. Do not incur any more debt. Pay down your current loan as fast as you can.

Because I "lived like nobody else" in my neighborhood and income bracket when I was young, I'm now able to pay cash, literally, for virtually any car on the market. I have no debts, not one penny. I choose to drive a Genesis because it is built like a Sherman tank, offers great comfort for a tall man, and has adequate performance in a suburban city environment. But if I was in my 20's, I'd be driving a 5 year old Corolla or Camry.
 
Yep, unless money is not a concern, the cheap car is the best solution. I know one guy that finally got rid of his Corolla at 345,000 miles. I did the same with an Olds Cutlass. Not sure of the miles as the odometer stopped working at 182,000. Left work one day and it started, went 10 feet and died. Grabbed the company pickup and stopped and bought a new car on the way home.

As for Tesla, a German company, Next Move cancelled their 100 car order after taking delivery of 15. Quality problems.
A relative of mine had a Camry that had close to a million miles on it, and was still "running fine." Those cars are effing unbelievable!
 
is your commute stop and go or all highway.

a Camry Hybrid gets 40-45 city (stop and go) and 35-40 Highway. the new Corolla Hybrid is supposed to get 50+ city 40+ highway.

just tossing out alternatives to the Tesla that might be more cost effective, but personally I agree with JimInNashville.
 
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is your commute stop and go or all highway.

a Camry Hybrid gets 40-45 city (stop and go) and 35-40 Highway. the new Corolla Hybrid is supposed to get 50+ city 40+ highway.

just tossing out alternatives to the Tesla that might be more cost effective, but personally I agree with JimInNashville.
My commute is 90% all highway
 
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