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DI Problems??

427435

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I read that. I noticed that they said Kia issued a TSB on it. Same engines as Hyundai. I try to use Shell gas most of the time, it's just a penny or two above Raceway & Walmart here. I also ordered a case of Techron to add every 3000 miles. Don't know what else to do.
 
I had a sonata turbo before my Genesis and the 2.0T is direct injection running a small twin scroll turbo. Reliability has been suspect with those engines, but they hadn't seen many carbon deposit issues.
The Ford ecoboost engines on the other hand are having some issues with carbon build up if the engines aren't allowed to heat up. It seems these engines really like one or two 15-20 minute drives a week to keep the valves clean using engine heat. Ford's repair has not been to clean the valves, but rather replace the entire cylinder head lol...
 
This is not news at all. There are many posts on this forum, (and hundreds of Google hits), although the good news is that few Hyundai owners have had the horrific problems experienced by Audi, VW, Ford and, to a lesser extent, BMW.

It's a simple problem: the detergents in fuel can never come into contact with the intake valves because the fuel is injected downstream of the intake system. Therefore, carbon deposits are created that cannot be washed away with fuel system cleaners or detergent fuel. The article mentions BMW service centers blasting intake valves with walnut shells as a recommended service. They like to do that every 50-60 thousand miles. It's one of the few things that works well. Top tier gas is always recommended, but that's because of the requirements of the High Pressure Fuel Pump, not the DI problem.

Installing a catch can and using full synthetic oil can reduce the problem and might be good for people who want to run high miles in their DI engine-equipped cars.
 
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We've known about carbon build up on DI engines for years. BMWs are supposed to have their valves removed and cleaned every 30k miles. We've taken a look a low mileage Subaru valves recently and seen significant deposits as well. It's just a fact of DI ownership. An air-oil separate would certainly help reduce it, but it's unavoidable.
 
This is not news at all. There are many posts on this forum, (and hundreds of Google hits), although the good news is that few Hyundai owners have had the horrific problems experienced by Audi, VW, Ford and, to a lesser extent, BMW.

It's a simple problem: the detergents in fuel can never come into contact with the intake valves because the fuel is injected downstream of the intake system. Therefore, carbon deposits are created that cannot be washed away with fuel system cleaners or detergent fuel. The article mentions BMW service centers blasting intake valves with walnut shells as a recommended service. They like to do that every 50-60 thousand miles. It's one of the few things that works well. Top tier gas is always recommended, but that's because of the requirements of the High Pressure Fuel Pump, not the DI problem.

Installing a catch can and using full synthetic oil can reduce the problem and might be good for people who want to run high miles in their DI engine-equipped cars.


^^ +1. And BG is supposed to have a "IV" based system that is inserted in the intake. Let it run for 20 minutes, it showers the intake valves with heavy duty intake valve cleaner. Should be done about every 7500-10,000 miles. I use this system every 10k... It is a IV drip system that is fed into the intake while engine is idling for 20 minutes. It seems to work. They placed a scope into the intake and up to the valves. They were clean on the video.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1424622143.100469.webp
 
Isn't this why Hyundai recommends a fuel additive be added every oil change, unless you use a top tier gas? I would still recommend adding the additive once a year no matter what brand of gas you use.
 
Isn't this why Hyundai recommends a fuel additive be added every oil change, unless you use a top tier gas? I would still recommend adding the additive once a year no matter what brand of gas you use.

No point in wasting money on that.
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...the detergents in fuel can never come into contact with the intake valves because the fuel is injected downstream of the intake system. Therefore, carbon deposits are created that cannot be washed away with fuel system cleaners or detergent fuel....
 
Installing a catch can and using full synthetic oil can reduce the problem and might be good for people who want to run high miles in their DI engine-equipped cars.

I highly recommend the catch can for the DI engines. I catch a large amount of viscous gunk in mine in between oil changes. Viscous gunk that would otherwise be passing over the intake valves.
 
I highly recommend the catch can for the DI engines. I catch a large amount of viscous gunk in mine in between oil changes. Viscous gunk that would otherwise be passing over the intake valves.

Do you have a catch can "kit" that you can recommend for this exact application along with info on where and how it's installed?

Thanks ... RonJ, 2013 3.8
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Has anyone come up with a catch can for the 5.0?
 
Do you have a catch can "kit" that you can recommend for this exact application along with info on where and how it's installed?

Thanks ... RonJ, 2013 3.8
http://www.Genesis Coupe.com/engine-drivetrain/132080-diy-2013-3-8-dual-catch-can-install.html
 
Has anyone here ever had an engine problems because of GDI??
Genesis started GDI in 2012. I've read that most GDI problems happened earlier than that.
 
From what I read on that link, and the comments, The carbon build up is caused by the pcv system pulling waste products, including vaporized oil, in through the air intake system. Easy solution is remove that system and run catch can.
Granted that will mean a bit of extra maintenance keeping that catch can from overfilling. but small amount of time/money vs $1000's rebuilding/cleaning the heads and valves.
 
is there a write up for our cars?
 
My shitty 335i was direct injection and had this issue. I had a catch can and some people run water methanol (the mist goes over the intake valves like regular port injection). I took the intake manifold off and tried cleaning them physically. I used a gun cleaning kit and let the valves soak overnight in carbon cleaner before attempting to free up the carbon buildup. I can verify it didn't 100% clean the valves and there was still build up left. I think it is more of an issue on turbo engines but I know it's a problem on all GDI engines. The only real solution is to take it into a mechanic/DIY and media blast the intake valves with walnut shells.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NnMhNXXawjk
 
Do you have a catch can "kit" that you can recommend for this exact application along with info on where and how it's installed?

Thanks ... RonJ, 2013 3.8

I installed an oil catch can on my 2012 3.8 V6. I used a CC (catch can) I found online at gogoautoshop.com. It is very solid, built from T6061aluminum, is baffled, and there is a dip stick on the top so you can tell when it needs to be dumped. Probably at each oil change. It comes in five colors: black, silver, blue, purple, or red. It is small, which made my installation very easy. INSTALLATION: I removed the mounting bracket from the CC. The existing factory tube connected at the PCV valve will ALWAYS remain connected to the PCV valve for installation or removal. I disconnected the other end from the intake manifold and reconnected to the INPUT side of the CC. I purchased a vacuum line with a pre-formed 90° bend at one end (NAPA #7151820). I connected the 90° end to the intake manifold and the other end to the OUTPUT side of the CC. (I removed 9 ¾” to get the correct length) The existing length of the factory PCV tubing positioned the CC so that it fits snuggly against the firewall and relay/fuse housing. I found no need to secure it with hardware. Although it is baffled, I added a small piece of a stainless steel scrubber into the baffle cup to help separate the incoming oil and gunk. I also added a small o-ring on the dip stick. Mounting it this way requires removal in order to dump it. It is very easy to remove or reconnect to factory spec. To do so, disconnect at the intake manifold. Then disconnect the CC INPUT side and reconnect that end to the intake manifold. All connections are accessible without removing the air intake tubing coming from the air filter box.
http://gogoautoshop.com/oil-breather-baffled-catch-tank-can.html
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Result.aspx?Ntt%3d7151820%26Ntk%3dKeyword%26Nty%3d1%26Dn%3d0%26D%3d7151820%26Dk%3d1%26Dp%3d3%26N%3d0
1a.webp

3.webp
 
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Thanks PaPa, I saved the info for later use.

RonJ
 
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