Nope, the CEL did not disappear yet. So I take it to teh friend of mine who has got that OBDII tool or whatever, that reads the codes, and it showed the vent valve error code. So last night I went online to see what do they do to fix the valve. And it appears, that there is a way to check whether the valve works properly (will post the steps below). First I thought I wanted to check it out, but then discovered that the new vent valve is not that expensive (I decided to grab an
aftermarket one
https://www.carid.com/fuel-tank-vent-valves/). So I'll simply do the replacement and that's it. By the way, the OE# for the valve is 311903M000, called the dealer yesterday...
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And here is an instruction on vent valve testing:
In most cars, the vent valve is normally open, meaning it should be open with no voltage and close when the voltage is applied.
The first step, as per the service manual, is to connect the vacuum gauge. We tried applying the vacuum and as you can see the valve doesn't hold it because it's fully open. The vacuum gauge immediately drops to zero.
The next step as per the service manual is to activate the valve with
scan tool called the PGM Tester. The PGM Tester commands the engine computer to apply 12 volts to the vent valve. We connected the extension wires and activated the vent valve with the tester. Immediately, the vent valve produced an audible click.
Now the manual tells us to apply the vacuum and see if the vent valve holds it.
As you can see, this valve does hold the vacuum, the needle doesn't drop. This means that this vent valve is OK. If the vent valve did not hold vacuum, the next step would be to test the power and ground at the vent valve electric connector.
