Genesis Sedan A/C fan not working...

[jasminecharl90]

Hi, my 2013 Genesis just started having this issue with the A/C fan. It works for a few days and all of a sudden it stops working. Usually keeps working while the car is on but when the fan decides to stop working is usually when I start the car. After an hour or two, it starts working after I get on the Highway and have outside air coming into the cabin.
Any advice on how to get it fixed as cheaply as possible will be appreciated

 

[joegr]

You or someone else needs to do some troubleshooting.
The first step is to determine if there is power at the blower motor when it is not blowing.

 

[mikec]

DC motors use a bunch of wire coils around the rotating armature, they get power sequentially via the brushes. Eventually the brushes wear down or one (or more) coils develops a broken wire/connection. When this happens the motor has a "dead spot" at some point in the rotation. If the motor is not at that dead spot when you try to run it, it will start and work fairly normally, coasting past the dead spot each rotation. If the motor is at the dead spot though when you try to turn it on... nothing happens.

Next time it happens: give the under-dash cover on the passenger side a solid upwards whack with the fan power ON and full speed. If that makes the fan run, you either have a bad connection at the motor (unlikely) or a motor with a dead spot. Replacing the motor is the only option. It's not difficult - a few screws to slowly/carefully remove the lower dash cover and the motor and a few electrical connectors to unplug including sensors on the cover - but you do have to contort yourself into the passenger side footwell. Aftermarket motors are available including several from RockAuto.com. Get a name brand motor... cheapie motors won't last.

mike c.

 

[MBFire11]

Has anyone ever come across an issue with the A/C compressor clutch not kicking in. System is showing Freon @ 98psi and holding but a/c unit will not kick on to cool the vehicle. On a 2013 G1 3.8L sedan.

Thanks for assistance in advance

 

[toxicavenger70]

Has anyone ever come across an issue with the A/C compressor clutch not kicking in. System is showing Freon @ 98psi and holding but a/c unit will not kick on to cool the vehicle. On a 2013 G1 3.8L sedan.

Thanks for assistance in advance

Locate the compressor replay and see if you can test it.

 

[mikec]

The factory service manual (FSM) suggests:
1: refrigerant capacity. Your pressures are plenty high enough so this should not be the issue.
2: A/C system fuse.
3: Magnetic clutch itself is bad. Not uncommon on cars.
4: Compressor is kaput.
5: Dual pressure switch is kaput. Such switch style sensors detect too-low refrigerant pressures (keeping the system from turning ON if there is little/no refrigerant which would kill the compressor) and detect too-high pressures (before hoses burst). The FSM troubleshooting section calls this a "Dual pressure switch" but no such wording exists elsewhere in the manual. An electronic pressure sensor though is installed into the high pressure line on the driver side of the vehicle; it outputs a varying voltage depending on system pressure. It has 3 wires: ground, output, and +5volt power. So you could unplug the connector, rig up jumper wires, and test the voltage from the ground to output side. Output voltage should be Voltage=0.00878835*pressure in psia + 0.37081095
6: A/C switch in dash
7: Evaporator temp sensor says the evaporator core (the radiator that chills the air) is too cold. Compressor won't run to avoid ice build-up on the evaporator. This is a simple thermister. The evaporator is in the center of the dash, above the transmission tunnel. The sensor is on the passenger side in the footwell area; look for a 2-wire sensor after removing the lower dash panel. The sensor resistance should be 4000 ohms @122 degrees to 46350 ohms @14 degrees; for typical ambient temps in the 68 to 86 degree range the resistance should be between 12000 and 830 ohms.
8: Wire harness.

The FSM describes a test procedure for the A/C computer... I tried in my (fully working) 2009 V8/Tech Genesis and did not get the expected blinking. See if anything happens when you:
1: ignition key/FOB from OFF to ON.
2: press the A/C system OFF switch 4 times while holding the MODE switch. The manual doesn't say which side of the MODE switch needs to be pressed... I tried this test both ways. Nothing.
3: The expected response: "All graphics on the display blinks three times per 0.5 seconds and start self diagnostics." Hyundai's exact words.
4: Diagnostics start and will continue until you press the OFF switch again.
5: Codes should display on the temp readout. Which on Tech package cars is the main LCD display. As I said, nothing seemed to happen when I tried this on my car. Maybe non-Tech cars have a dedicated temp display?
6: Pressing the AUTO switch should cause the diagnostics to quit looping and instead stop at a particular test. Pushing the A/C switch moves to the next step.
7: Pressing OFF gets out of diagnostic mode, returning the a/c computer to normal operation.

The error codes flashed/displayed correspond to various sensors and switches in the system being open or shorted - i.e. the signal is way outside the expected range.

Can you get the compressor to engage with the temp selected as low as it goes? I.e. put the system into "max cool" mode so it ignores some temp sensors?

mike c.

 

[G-131045]

Hi, my 2013 Genesis just started having this issue with the A/C fan. It works for a few days and all of a sudden it stops working. Usually keeps working while the car is on but when the fan decides to stop working is usually when I start the car. After an hour or two, it starts working after I get on the Highway and have outside air coming into the cabin.
Any advice on how to get it fixed as cheaply as possible will be appreciated

I have this same problem with mine. Did you ever get a response or fixed?

 

[amartz]

DC motors use a bunch of wire coils around the rotating armature, they get power sequentially via the brushes. Eventually the brushes wear down or one (or more) coils develops a broken wire/connection. When this happens the motor has a "dead spot" at some point in the rotation. If the motor is not at that dead spot when you try to run it, it will start and work fairly normally, coasting past the dead spot each rotation. If the motor is at the dead spot though when you try to turn it on... nothing happens.

Next time it happens: give the under-dash cover on the passenger side a solid upwards whack with the fan power ON and full speed. If that makes the fan run, you either have a bad connection at the motor (unlikely) or a motor with a dead spot. Replacing the motor is the only option. It's not difficult - a few screws to slowly/carefully remove the lower dash cover and the motor and a few electrical connectors to unplug including sensors on the cover - but you do have to contort yourself into the passenger side footwell. Aftermarket motors are available including several from RockAuto.com. Get a name brand motor... cheapie motors won't last.

mike c.

Assuming we are talking about the squirrel fan under the glove box, you can test it fairly easily by doing like you were replacing the cabin filter, only leave it all open. You can see the top of the fan. If it stops when it should be running, reach in and give the fan a little nudge. If it takes off running, it's a problem with the brushes in the motor. I had to replace mine, it was fairly easy, and the replacement fan/motor assembly I found new online for a whole lot cheaper than dealer parts. The replacement fan was a perfect match to the one I took out, and fixed the problem permanently.