Genesis Sedan bulb sizes

Gimli

Banned
260
2
0
Alright, I'd like to start a thread about the bulb sizes in the Genesis. Unfortunately Hyundai didn't think it may be useful for drivers to know what size bulbs they use so they haven't documented it anywhere.
Hopefully we can make this sticky-material so we can all be properly informed.
If you have questions about how to change bulbs, etc please do not post in this thread but start your own thread instead. I'd like to keep this clean with just bulb size info.

Here's what I have so far:

High beam halogen: H7
Low beam halogen (non-HID models): H11
Fog lights: H8
Front "parking" light (next to the high beam bulb): 168/194
Front blinkers: 2357. 1157 replacement bulbs will fit right in and work just as well.
Rear blinkers: PY21W/7507 (looks like an 1156 BUT IT IS NOT ONE!!!)
Back-up lights: 921
License plate: 2x 37mm festoon
Courtesy lights (under doors): 194/168
Trunk: 2x 31mm festoon (6418)
Glove box: 31mm festoon (6418)
Vanity mirror: 31mm festoon (6418)
Inside ceiling lights: appear to be custom lights, each with 1 high-power LED
Front footwell area: 194/168
 
Last edited by a moderator:

scottdk

Registered Member
3,186
28
48
Minnesota
Re: Genesis bulb sizes

What about the Fog Lights? (Probably H3's but if H7's, I will replace with two Yellow H7 bulbs that I have.

I wish the Fog Lights would come on with the Parking lights, but Hyundai has it set up so they only come on with the headlights on.
You can!;) All you have to do is turn on the parking lights and than makes sure the fog light switch is turned on.
______________________________
 

Gimli

Banned
260
2
0
Re: Genesis bulb sizes

Add:

Low beam (non-HID models): H11

Back-up lights: 921

Front "parking" light (next to the high beam bulb): 168/194

Official bulb number for the front blinkers is 2357 but an 1157 will work just as well. The only difference between a 2357 and an 1157 is that on the high-intensity setting the 2357 is slightly brighter than an 1157. 2357 also tend to have a shorter life because of it.

Official bulb number for 31mm festoon bulbs is 6418.
 
Last edited:

Gimli

Banned
260
2
0
Although my car does not use the H11, I'd love to see what they look like also.
H8, H9 and H11 all look like this:


Only their wattage is different. H8 is 35w, H9 is 65w and H11 is 55w.
H9 and H11 can probably be used interchangeably as the wattage is only 20% higher but I would be wary of using H11 or H9 in place of H8. At almost twice the wattage I would expect the wiring and wiring harness not to be able to sustain extended use and may cause the wiring harness to melt or catch on fire (I have seen that before).
 

MattP

Getting familiar with the group...
73
0
0
Lucas, TX
Has anyone taken apart the headlamp assembly to change the high beam or side light bulb yet. I have a V6 Tech package with the HID low beams.

There appears to be a plastic cover across the top of the unit with odd hold downs. I certainly don't want to force any of these and break them. (Any photos of removing the covers would be great !).

The HMA service website did not seem to give a lot of detail on this step.
 

Gimli

Banned
260
2
0
Has anyone taken apart the headlamp assembly to change the high beam or side light bulb yet. I have a V6 Tech package with the HID low beams.

There appears to be a plastic cover across the top of the unit with odd hold downs. I certainly don't want to force any of these and break them. (Any photos of removing the covers would be great !).

The HMA service website did not seem to give a lot of detail on this step.
The best way to remove the small round push-pins was to push in the center piece and then lift the outside ring gently using a screwdriver. Before you re-install them you have to push the center piece the other way so it's pushed-up about a quarter-inch, put the whole assembly in place then push the center pin in flush with the rest of it to fix it in place.

After all of the push-pins are removed there is still one 10mm bolt to remove and then there are pins attaching the shroud to the center portion of the bumper (that covers the radiator area). Those pins are actually molded into the shroud and can be quite difficult to push in to allow the shroud to be disconnected from the bumper part and be removed. There's two sets of two opposite pins on each side of the grill. Just forcing them out runs the risk of breaking the pins although it doesnt, seem to really affect anything if you do (don't ask me how I know).

Once the shroud is removed the blinkers are fairly easy to access but the high beams are a *****. Apparently you can remove the headlight assembly to make it easier but it still wouldn't move after I removed the two 10mm bolts that hold them to the frame of the car so there must be some other hidden bolt(s) to remove to accomplish that.
 

MattP

Getting familiar with the group...
73
0
0
Lucas, TX
The best way to remove the small round push-pins was to push in the center piece and then lift the outside ring gently using a screwdriver. Before you re-install them you have to push the center piece the other way so it's pushed-up about a quarter-inch, put the whole assembly in place then push the center pin in flush with the rest of it to fix it in place.

After all of the push-pins are removed there is still one 10mm bolt to remove and then there are pins attaching the shroud to the center portion of the bumper (that covers the radiator area). Those pins are actually molded into the shroud and can be quite difficult to push in to allow the shroud to be disconnected from the bumper part and be removed. There's two sets of two opposite pins on each side of the grill. Just forcing them out runs the risk of breaking the pins although it doesnt, seem to really affect anything if you do (don't ask me how I know).

Once the shroud is removed the blinkers are fairly easy to access but the high beams are a *****. Apparently you can remove the headlight assembly to make it easier but it still wouldn't move after I removed the two 10mm bolts that hold them to the frame of the car so there must be some other hidden bolt(s) to remove to accomplish that.
Thank you. Very useful when someone has already "pioneered" and tried the disassembly. I was planning on changing out the high beam and the bulb next to it (referred to as "parking" bulb above , 194). Did you try changing this too? Is it as hard as the high beam given its proximity? I am assuming the difficultly is due to a lack of physical room to get your hand into position and remove the bulb covers?
 

Gimli

Banned
260
2
0
Thank you. Very useful when someone has already "pioneered" and tried the disassembly. I was planning on changing out the high beam and the bulb next to it (referred to as "parking" bulb above , 194). Did you try changing this too? Is it as hard as the high beam given its proximity? I am assuming the difficultly is due to a lack of physical room to get your hand into position and remove the bulb covers?
Yeah, it's pretty tight in there if you don't remove the headlight assembly and it was about -20 degrees and light was going down when I did it so I didn't exactly hang around to figure out everything ;)

From what I saw the parking light would be very difficult to get to without removing the headlight assembly because not only is it "deeper" than the high beam light but there's also a lot of wiring in the way. Even the high beam was very difficult to take out. even though the cover is somewhat easy to remove the clamping system they use is not intuitive at all and gets caught on wiring, all of that at angles that would make a Cirque du Soleil contorsionist blush.

Maybe someone with 5-year-old hands and arms could do it but I wouldn't even try.
______________________________
 
Last edited:

Gimli

Banned
260
2
0
ok...

according to http://www.sylvania.com/ConsumerProducts/AutomotiveLighting/LampReplacementGuide/AutoLRG-Results.htm the fog lights are H11b...

What kind of bulb is that?? I pulled 2 German made H8's out of my housing!
Sylvania is wrong. See http://genesisowners.com/hyundai-genesis-forum/showpost.php?p=14719&postcount=11

The only reason Sylvania says they are H11b is because it's the same format/size as the proper H8 but they don't offer the 35w H8, only the 55w H11.

I would definitely not run 55w bulbs in a socket designed for a 35w bulb. That's just calling for the wiring harness to melt.
 

Gimli

Banned
260
2
0
Alright, here's another bad news. The rear blinker bulbs are NOT standard 1156 bulbs. The little side posts on the base of the bulb used to keep it in housing (push-and-twist) are not at a 180 degree angle from each other, like standard 1156 bulbs. They're at approx. 170 degree instead so when you slip the bulb into the socket the one post keeps it from being turned so it won't lock in place. I also think they might have reversed the polarity of the socket because even with the bulb completely pushed-in it won't light up.

I haven't had time to really look into it and figure it all out (weather is quite messy out here today) but hold off on buying LED blinkers for the rear unless you're willing to take the risk of the bulbs not working properly.

I haven't tried the front bulbs yet, I hope they don't also have some weird base.
 
Top