How to disconnect parking brake cable from EPB module?

[corneliusw]

So this cable is attached to the EPB module and the rear tire. Both ends of the cable are the same. It doesn't seem like if you fit a wrench on it that you can twist it and it'll remove, as it's not the type of nut that would secure something in place. If you look at the second picture, I can remove the 8 bolt, but it doesn't help do anything, it doesn't become loose or anything.

I've never dealt with this type of plug before so curious if anyone has some advice on removing without damaging from either the module or wheel.

 

[joegr]

The brake cables (there are two of them, one for each rear wheel) do not remove from the module. (Unless you are disassembling the module. If so, you'll have to remove the whole module first.)

To remove the cable from each rear wheel, you have to remove each rotor/drum first.
Start at about 14 minutes in.

5. Remove the parking brake cable (B).
(1) After removing the bolt (A).
Tightening torque:
6.9 ~ 10.8N.m (0.7 ~ 1.1kgf.m, 5.1 ~ 8.0lb-ft)

(2) Remove the clip (A) and then lift up the cable guide spring (B).

(3) Push the parking brake cable to arrow direction in order to remove it.

 

[arcman]

Is the EPB stuck on? If so, you've got some issues. The problem will be getting the rotors off. You can't get to the mechanism that spreads the shoes without the rotor removed.

If the EPB is junk and you're going to replace it, I'd cut the cables with a bolt cutter or hot wrench (torch) and that would release the shoes.

If you do replace it, there's a heat shield in front of it that's got to be removed to gain access.

I've never once used the EPB. If I were you, I'd just cut the cables and tie the ends out of the way. Make sure the end that goes into the rotor is tied tightly so it can't loosen its way back into the assembly or remove the rotors and remove the cable ends.

Here's what's inside of the EPB. Signal comes via CAN to the board and it powers the motor/jack screw to pull the cables inward, applying the brake shoes inside the rotors.



If you must replace it... find one cheap at car-part.com and do a search for your year under 'cruise control computer' and there's a sub category for parking brakes. If you cut your cables, make sure the replacement comes with them!

 

[corneliusw]

I was able to remove the EPB from underneath. I am curious will it be okay to turn on vehicle with it removed (not drive it of course). I'm just wondering what sort of error messages will show with it removed so I can compare to what I may get with a replacement in the future.

 

[arcman]

You're fine to drive the car with it disconnected. The EPB message will stay on.

 

[Aamir]

I was told by the dealer that they have to remove the rear subframe to replace the EPB module on a 2015 Genesis. Is this true? Does anyone have pics of the location of the EPB module?

 

[Aamir]

I was able to remove the EPB from underneath. I am curious will it be okay to turn on vehicle with it removed (not drive it of course). I'm just wondering what sort of error messages will show with it removed so I can compare to what I may get with a replacement in the future.

I was told by the dealer that they have to remove the rear subframe to replace the EPB module on a 2015 Genesis. Is this true? Does anyone have pics of the location of the EPB module?

 

[corneliusw]

I was told by the dealer that they have to remove the rear subframe to replace the EPB module on a 2015 Genesis. Is this true? Does anyone have pics of the location of the EPB module?

It's easier access to remove subframe, or you can disconnect exhaust pipes from underneath and some other parts. Alternatively you can actually just use a small wrench and do it by hand without removing any parts (which is what I did). It'll all take the same amount of time, maybe less time if you do it by just maneuvering your hands to reach the nuts.

It's located in the back of the car between the rear tires in the middle.
If you can't do it, just hire some handyman to do it for you. It's literally just reaching your hands around to find the bolts and then removing them with a wrench slowly.

 

[arcman]

The EPB is mounted on top of the rear subframe.





As I noted above, removing the small heat shield just forward of the EPB near the fuel tank makes getting to the bolts much easier. Getting the EPB nuts off (in my case... two bolts and two nuts) is a pain but two of us here have done it so it's doable. Dropping the subframe has to be a much bigger project because you'd need an extra jack of some kind to lower it.

 

[GENNY429]

I was told by the dealer that they have to remove the rear subframe to replace the EPB module on a 2015 Genesis. Is this true? Does anyone have pics of the location of the EPB module?

It’s not the subframe per se, it’s a cross member. No biggie. What is a biggie is before that you have to remove half the drive shaft. Which if don’t incorrectly will screw you up pretty good. Includes needing to make bolt markings and such. There’s a post on the forum that shows a detailed service manual on what needs to be done. I don’t know how to link it to my post though.

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[JEdwards]

There’s a post on the forum that shows a detailed service manual on what needs to be done. I don’t know how to link it to my post though.

When looking at the post you can get a URL to the post. There is a bar immediately above each post containing the date and time on the left, and an icon of three suicled connected by lines 2 positions to the left of the post number. This will give you access the the URL and a button to copy it the the clipboard.

You can insert that link in a post as follows: When editing a post, hit the icon that looks like two diagonally linked chain segments. Just paste in the URL and give it a useful name in the form that is presented.

 

[GENNY429]

I will preface this by saying I am nothing more than a shade tree mechanic, and I accept no responsibility for anything that happens based on this post, but I recently accidentally found a possible trick/diy fix for the e brake screaming/not working issue, and all the lights coming on the dash, like hold, e brake etc, etc. When I took the rear rotors off, the e brake shoes were disintegrated. Like a pile of dust on the inside of the rotors. Just the metal plates were left. I replaced the shoes (like 40 bucks and a severe case of drum brake spring frustration). Then, with the rotors off and shoes not connected, I pressed e brake button. I could see the cable going in and out, module screaming like a banshee all the way. It would only do this 3 or 4 times and then stop and the lights would come on the dash. Problem was, it always stopped the the cable retracted, ie brake on.Then, I literally timed it, and unhooked the battery when the cable was all the way out, brake completely off. I left the adjustment tensioners all the way closed too and put everything back together and left it unplugged overnight. Next day, I hooked up battery, lights were off and I went on my merry way, knowing the brake was completely off. I was scared to press the button, knowing that it could lock me up completely and having to beat the rotors off or cut the cables. I found the module with cables in AZ salvage yard and had it shipped to me for ~$200.00. (Better than $2400 from the dealership). Once it arrived, I said, I’m gonna press the button, and see what happens. If I get locked up, at least I’m in the garage, I’ll cut cables and tie them up somewhere until I find someone to install the new module. You can imagine my dismay and jubilation. It works perfectly. No screaming, it doesn’t even make the noise it made back when it did work, I can barely hear it. Holding good too. No lights on dash. Running around my garage yelling “It verks, it verks!!!” (Insert fake German accent). Probably scared the neighbors, but this was a miracle. (If this doesn’t work for you, part number is 59700-3M900). Do NOT pay the dealer price. These things are available from salvage yards. If it does work for you (or you have questions), bell me, I’m wanting to know if this is a fix or did I just get lucky.

 

[fransanti04]

I will preface this by saying I am nothing more than a shade tree mechanic, and I accept no responsibility for anything that happens based on this post, but I recently accidentally found a possible trick/diy fix for the e brake screaming/not working issue, and all the lights coming on the dash, like hold, e brake etc, etc. When I took the rear rotors off, the e brake shoes were disintegrated. Like a pile of dust on the inside of the rotors. Just the metal plates were left. I replaced the shoes (like 40 bucks and a severe case of drum brake spring frustration). Then, with the rotors off and shoes not connected, I pressed e brake button. I could see the cable going in and out, module screaming like a banshee all the way. It would only do this 3 or 4 times and then stop and the lights would come on the dash. Problem was, it always stopped the the cable retracted, ie brake on.Then, I literally timed it, and unhooked the battery when the cable was all the way out, brake completely off. I left the adjustment tensioners all the way closed too and put everything back together and left it unplugged overnight. Next day, I hooked up battery, lights were off and I went on my merry way, knowing the brake was completely off. I was scared to press the button, knowing that it could lock me up completely and having to beat the rotors off or cut the cables. I found the module with cables in AZ salvage yard and had it shipped to me for ~$200.00. (Better than $2400 from the dealership). Once it arrived, I said, I’m gonna press the button, and see what happens. If I get locked up, at least I’m in the garage, I’ll cut cables and tie them up somewhere until I find someone to install the new module. You can imagine my dismay and jubilation. It works perfectly. No screaming, it doesn’t even make the noise it made back when it did work, I can barely hear it. Holding good too. No lights on dash. Running around my garage yelling “It verks, it verks!!!” (Insert fake German accent). Probably scared the neighbors, but this was a miracle. (If this doesn’t work for you, part number is 59700-3M900). Do NOT pay the dealer price. These things are available from salvage yards. If it does work for you (or you have questions), bell me, I’m wanting to know if this is a fix or did I just get lucky.

Hello! I know this is an old thread but hoping I get a response. Reading your msg, I'm having an issue with my 2014 Equus. I need to reattach the emergency operating brake lever but I can't due to brake cable being a bit in and has tension. The brake lever fell out of place as I pryed operating the brakes a little trying to replace a stud.

 

[G-197977]

You're fine to drive the car with it disconnected. The EPB message will stay on.

how can i get the dam light to go off?

 

[corneliusw]

how can i get the dam light to go off?

I am not sure what your exact issue is that could've caused the light to come on since you did not provide any details.

However, I would suggest getting a scanner, run it for errors and then hit clear. See if that wipes the EPB light off. If not then it's possible you need to switch out the EPB module from underneath the vehicle.