Cyrus90210
New member
- Joined
- Nov 5, 2022
- Messages
- 3
- Reaction score
- 1
- Points
- 3
- Genesis Model Year
- 2015
- Genesis Model Type
- 2G Genesis Sedan (2015-2016)
2015 Hyundai Genesis 3.8 AWD Sedan
115k miles
Sorry in advance if I am posting in the wrong section of the forum. 6 months ago the CEL popped up with dtc P0302 accompanied by a grotesque decrease in power and piss poor acceleration that would get dusted in a 1/4 mi against a car that is stuck in limp mode. After that 1/4 mi it would all of a sudden wake up in a sense and take tf off as if there just was not anything wrong. Replacing the plug and clearing the code didn’t change power or performance and the CEL and dtc came right back. The starter went out about 150mi from home in a Wendy’s parking lot. I ordered the starter off Amazon had it delivered Wendy’s. While waiting for the starter I decided to look at the plugs everything seemed fine looked at the valves and they were caked in carbon so I cleaned those up as best as possible. I replaced the starter with just the mechanics tool set I had got back on the road after a couple days and I had noticed the the acceleration was much better I would it was at least half as fast as where it should be no difference in power when going up hill as I couldn’t maintain speed unless in 3rd gear. Since then I have had a flashing CEL, misfire codes, and intermittent misfire codes. Now as of recently have had fuel system/pressure issues to the point where I can start the car in the morning let it warm up and if not driven shortly after warming up my car would stall and wouldn’t be able to restart unless at least 45mins has passed to cool down and I have starting fluid to help get it to start. Cylinders #2 and #6 are where it is misfiring and I have done a voltage test, resistance test, and spark test. Cylinders #2 and #6 coils are getting power and are within specs, but no spark. I checked cylinder #4 and it has the same readings and values as cylinder #2 and #6. So I just took both the ignition coil and spark plug from cylinders #2 and #6 and individually tested each set in cylinder #4 and got spark from each set. I then did a voltage drop test on cylinders #2, #4, and #6 and it came back roughly 9.4v for all 3 cylinders, but only cylinder #4 can spark. So assuming the plugs and coils are good and the powers good then what else could be preventing cylinder #2 and #6 from sparking? I will attach the saved reports I have. I do not own any real diagnostic tools or equipment other then a multimeter and the blue driver diagnostic code scanner which is why within the last 3 months these are the following parts I’ve installed/replaced based off of research, recommendations and Hyundai’s shop repair manual:
- 6 NGK Ruthenium HX Spark Plugs LKR7AHXS
- 6 brand new ignition coils
- 6 new Hyundai oem injectors
- new oem HPFP
- New purge control solenoid valve
- 4 new oem camshaft sensors
- New oem Crankshaft Postion Sensor
- 4 New oem O2 sensors both upstream and downstream for R/H and L/H
- New oem on tank fuel pump filter
- Oil change, Hyundai oem oil filter, and I had dropped the lower oil pan to check for signs of metal shavings or anything foreign but it good just black and dirty.
- Coolant flush and refill
- New starter installed a second time
- New battery
Also, just yesterday I had installed the high pressure full pump and while I was removing and installing I had hooked the negative and positive battery cables together to reset the computer. After install I needed starting fluid or equivalent start aid to get the car to start. It is still misfiring or rough idling and stalling, but now there is no check engine light at all I drove it 50miles yesterday too where now it had stalled while stopped at the light which it had not done before unless I had just parked and left it idling for a couple minutes then it would stall. At the end of the drive still no check engine light.
Sorry it’s a lengthy post, but it’s now become quite aggravating and absolutely any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
115k miles
Sorry in advance if I am posting in the wrong section of the forum. 6 months ago the CEL popped up with dtc P0302 accompanied by a grotesque decrease in power and piss poor acceleration that would get dusted in a 1/4 mi against a car that is stuck in limp mode. After that 1/4 mi it would all of a sudden wake up in a sense and take tf off as if there just was not anything wrong. Replacing the plug and clearing the code didn’t change power or performance and the CEL and dtc came right back. The starter went out about 150mi from home in a Wendy’s parking lot. I ordered the starter off Amazon had it delivered Wendy’s. While waiting for the starter I decided to look at the plugs everything seemed fine looked at the valves and they were caked in carbon so I cleaned those up as best as possible. I replaced the starter with just the mechanics tool set I had got back on the road after a couple days and I had noticed the the acceleration was much better I would it was at least half as fast as where it should be no difference in power when going up hill as I couldn’t maintain speed unless in 3rd gear. Since then I have had a flashing CEL, misfire codes, and intermittent misfire codes. Now as of recently have had fuel system/pressure issues to the point where I can start the car in the morning let it warm up and if not driven shortly after warming up my car would stall and wouldn’t be able to restart unless at least 45mins has passed to cool down and I have starting fluid to help get it to start. Cylinders #2 and #6 are where it is misfiring and I have done a voltage test, resistance test, and spark test. Cylinders #2 and #6 coils are getting power and are within specs, but no spark. I checked cylinder #4 and it has the same readings and values as cylinder #2 and #6. So I just took both the ignition coil and spark plug from cylinders #2 and #6 and individually tested each set in cylinder #4 and got spark from each set. I then did a voltage drop test on cylinders #2, #4, and #6 and it came back roughly 9.4v for all 3 cylinders, but only cylinder #4 can spark. So assuming the plugs and coils are good and the powers good then what else could be preventing cylinder #2 and #6 from sparking? I will attach the saved reports I have. I do not own any real diagnostic tools or equipment other then a multimeter and the blue driver diagnostic code scanner which is why within the last 3 months these are the following parts I’ve installed/replaced based off of research, recommendations and Hyundai’s shop repair manual:
- 6 NGK Ruthenium HX Spark Plugs LKR7AHXS
- 6 brand new ignition coils
- 6 new Hyundai oem injectors
- new oem HPFP
- New purge control solenoid valve
- 4 new oem camshaft sensors
- New oem Crankshaft Postion Sensor
- 4 New oem O2 sensors both upstream and downstream for R/H and L/H
- New oem on tank fuel pump filter
- Oil change, Hyundai oem oil filter, and I had dropped the lower oil pan to check for signs of metal shavings or anything foreign but it good just black and dirty.
- Coolant flush and refill
- New starter installed a second time
- New battery
Also, just yesterday I had installed the high pressure full pump and while I was removing and installing I had hooked the negative and positive battery cables together to reset the computer. After install I needed starting fluid or equivalent start aid to get the car to start. It is still misfiring or rough idling and stalling, but now there is no check engine light at all I drove it 50miles yesterday too where now it had stalled while stopped at the light which it had not done before unless I had just parked and left it idling for a couple minutes then it would stall. At the end of the drive still no check engine light.
Sorry it’s a lengthy post, but it’s now become quite aggravating and absolutely any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
