Might have pushed the engine a little too much....

[mikejaret]

Hey guys

I'm new here, just bought my Genesis 3.8. I have never really dealt with a break in period, and am not quite up on my engine knowledge. I have sort of inadvertantly sped up a little too much in my car (< 500 miles). I can smell the burning when I got out of the car shortly after....it has only happened twice and I keep meaning not to do it....

what are the long term effects of this? and will it matter if I am leasing the car.....

 

[maxmar04]

possibly just your oil heating up?? and yeah break in period is very important. some car manufacturers pre-break-in their motors at the factory, but this isnt the case with hyundai :/

oh and congrats on your new gen

 

[Polen]

You should be fine. You just got the engine hot. Even after breakin you will notice this after running your car hard and then parking. Drive it slowly for now.

 

[Potty_Pants]

Hey guys

I'm new here, just bought my Genesis 3.8. I have never really dealt with a break in period, and am not quite up on my engine knowledge. I have sort of inadvertantly sped up a little too much in my car (< 500 miles). I can smell the burning when I got out of the car shortly after....it has only happened twice and I keep meaning not to do it....

what are the long term effects of this? and will it matter if I am leasing the car.....

honestly i'm not too concerned theres anything broken, could be trans oil smell,tires or even some oil spilled on the engine.

long term, too hard to tell. if your car allowed you to manually row thru the gears and seat the valves properly it wouldnt be an issue. most of the valve seating takes place < 50 miles... which is usually when the dealer beats up the car. however the trans from my research does need at least 1000 miles or more to get broken in.

will it matter if your leasing a car... hell no. its under warranty and failed. as long as you didnt exceed redline and implode the engine your fine.

ppp

 

[Crusty Old Shellback]

Engine break in procedures.

Very first start of the engine:
1. Set timming and fuel. (done by computer)

2. Run at 2000 RPM for 15 Min. (sets cam, followers, and rings)

3. Drive it like you normally will.

4. Change oil and filter at 500 miles.


Your OK.

 

[TJPark01]

what are the long term effects of this? and will it matter if I am leasing the car.....

None. Don't worry about it. My car smelled like burned plastic for about a month after I shut it off. It goes away

Engine break in procedures.

Very first start of the engine:
1. Set timming and fuel. (done by computer)

2. Run at 2000 RPM for 15 Min. (sets cam, followers, and rings)

3. Drive it like you normally will.

4. Change oil and filter at 500 miles.


Your OK.

According to who?

 

[Glashub]

Ditto TJ

 

[ShadowScoobySTi]

You're fine. I would suggest to change the oil if you got it new. And drive it normally. Not like you stole it

 

[Crusty Old Shellback]

According to several engine builders I've worked with, as well as aftermarket engine parts suppliers.

Read any cam break in procedures from the manufacture, it says exactly what I wrote. First few runs on the engine will also set the rings. All the rest is old hearsay.

When I built a 600 HP blown 383 stroker Chevy motor, I too was worried about break in. I asked my machinist, who builds race engines for several top races, about breakin period and should I do the breakin without the blower. His response, was exactly what I posted above. I had no problems with the engine and when I tore it down after 20K miles of hard driving, everything looked like brand new inside.

The engien is bascially broke in by the time you get the car. They do that at the factory when they test the vechicle before it ever drives out of the factory. But follow the old wives tales if you will. In the last 20 years, I haven't had any engine failures due to not folloing some weired breakin that seems to continue to perpetuate on the web. Oils, metals, addatives have changed a lot over the years. What was once a rule back 50 years ago dosen't still apply today.

YMMV.

 

[CanukV6]

I'd agree that specific "Break-in" procedures are not usually required for modern engines like they were (are?) for older design engines. One reason is that modern machining tolerances are far more repeatable so you don't get the range of clearances you did in older engines that could cause tight fits that required some "bedding-in".

One thing that was mentioned above "2. Run at 2000 RPM for 15 Min. (sets cam, followers, and rings)" was one of the things I was always told should be avoided way back when, as constant engine rpm could cause bearings and rings to take a certain 'set' that might be a problem at different rpm's.
From what I remember the recommendations for cars in the 1960's & '70's was:

• Refrain from high rpm (above 4000?) for the first 200 miles.
• Vary engine speed as much as possible for first 500 miles.
• Don't 'lug' the engine - low rpm & high load.
• Change the oil & filter after 500 miles (on older cars they would also change the transmission & rear axle oils)

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[scottdk]

Vary engine speed as much as possible for first 500 miles.

^This is also very similar to what my Dad's Azera's OM says, but I believe it's for 700 miles. I believe the Genesis is the same info, but don't have the OM with me.

 

[Crusty Old Shellback]

The "run engine at 2000 RPM for 15 min" is straight off of the install instructions from the cam manufacture. It sets the wear patteren for the cam lobes and lifters.

The do not lug the engine you mention is so that you don't "float" the rings. It's a bad idea to lug any engine. The varying the engine speed is to help set the rings the rest of the way and is usually only needed for chrome rings which are harder and take longer to seat.

 

[TJPark01]

Here is what the MANUAL states:

VEHICLE BREAK-IN PROCESS
No special break-in period is needed. By
following a few simple precautions for the
first 600 miles (1,000 km) you may add to
the performance, economy and life of
your vehicle.
&#8226; Do not race the engine.
&#8226; While driving, keep your engine speed
(rpm, or revolutions per minute)
between 2,000 rpm and 4,000 rpm.
&#8226; Do not maintain a single speed for long
periods of time, either fast or slow.
Varying engine speed is needed to
properly break-in the engine.
&#8226; Avoid hard stops, except in emergencies,
to allow the brakes to seat properly.
&#8226; Don't let the engine idle longer than 3
minutes at one time.
&#8226; Don't tow a trailer during the first 1,200
miles (2,000 km) of operation.

If you plan on keeping the car for a very long time past 100k miles than changing the oil early for the first few oil changes is a strategic move with an eye towards long term usability. If you are gonna flip the car <100k miles, then probably no need to do this, but it may be a nice selling point for the next guy if you sell to a private party.


Total Mileage 6820
Oil was in car for 10 months/5600 miles
Mixed use city and highway.
Mobil1 5W-30, replaced factory fill at 1200 miles.
__________________

 

[scottdk]

^What TJ said. I sold my beater (1993 Taurus wagon) for 3.5 times as much as I paid for it. When I handed him the slips for proper maintanance and the BlackStone oil analysis he said, "Damn, you really are detailed aren't you?"

either way, I got what I wanted, and he got piece of mind and a well cared for automobile.

 

[radicaltimes]

When I worked at Honda of America in Marysville Ohio as soon as the car was driven off the line it went to a dyno and they floored it. Then after a few more tests it went out to the test track and they floored it as much as they could . The drivers drove it like they stole it. And Honda motors live forever after this.

 

[TJPark01]

When I worked at Honda of America in Marysville Ohio as soon as the car was driven off the line it went to a dyno and they floored it. Then after a few more tests it went out to the test track and they floored it as much as they could . The drivers drove it like they stole it. And Honda motors live forever after this.

This doesn't surprise me. Evidence suggests that cars that are driven in slow urban environments short distances can be in worse condition than high mileage cars driven aggressively on a more regular basis. I've heard it's good to occasionally get on the open highway and when the engine is at operating temp, to get the engine speeds up to 4-6k rpm. This will burn off contamination in the lubrication system, and more importantly, it's fun.

 

[GJEMD]

My 2010 4.6 has 31000 miles. About a month ago I came off the Interstate. Often I will shift manually up to 3rd gear in traffic.
So, I took off and got distracted by a gorgeous woman and forgot to shift. I finally heard a unusual sound and looked down and was just shy of 6000 rpm. This might have gone on for 5 seconds or so.
So I figured well there you go, done in by a beautiful woman again!! But, I swear the engine is stronger and smoother than before. I can sit at idle and I can't tell the engine is running. Now I had no issues with how this Gem ran before. I don't recommend it and no longer use manual much at all. This engine is boiler plate so far.

 

[Crusty Old Shellback]

Sounds like you hit the Rev limiter which keeps you from over reving the engine. No big deal. All the rev limiter does is pull the spark on random cylinders to keep the engne from turning any faster. Most factory rev limiters are set fairly conseratavley.