Oil filter change - cannister mistake...it can happen!

[azgolfrat]

Well, I made a mistake that cost me some time and brain cells, but fortunately not a lot of $. I decided to write a post so that others might be helped, despite my embarrassment. :/
I did the oil change including the filter on my 2015 5.0 about 3 months ago. The car began leaking oil recently. Up on the jacks, covers off, & the oil is seen seeping from the oil filter cannister where it (the plastic cannister) contacts the metal housing that it threads into. Long story short, in a bit of a rush and not paying close enough attention (the enemy of all who work on their own car) I left the old, flattened oring in place when I did the previous oil change. It can be hard to see when it's flattened and your eyes are 60+ like mine. I also, at the same time placed the new oring in an incorrect spot, which looks like a willing circumference, near the end of the plastic cannister. This arrangement (old and misplaced new oring) was good enough to hold off a catastrophic leak, but not enough to prevent a slow leak which saturated the front undercover and a bit of the rear undercover. After a while the excess oil began to drip off the undercover. It took a while and a few cannister removals / installs for me to see the extra oring on the cannister and fix the problem. Arrrgh. I hope this helps someone!

 

[asleep@thewheel]

I'll bet you are not the only one to make that mistake. Lucky for you it was an easy fix.

I just changed the oil and filter on my 2015 5.0 the other day and I always worry about that O-ring getting twisted or misplaced as I made the final turns on the plastic housing to screw it on. Those last couple turns are when the O-ring gets seated. I always put some oil on it and after 14 oil changes it has never leaked, so I guess I shouldn't worry about it.

 

[carguy75]

Well, I made a mistake that cost me some time and brain cells, but fortunately not a lot of $. I decided to write a post so that others might be helped, despite my embarrassment. :/
I did the oil change including the filter on my 2015 5.0 about 3 months ago. The car began leaking oil recently. Up on the jacks, covers off, & the oil is seen seeping from the oil filter cannister where it (the plastic cannister) contacts the metal housing that it threads into. Long story short, in a bit of a rush and not paying close enough attention (the enemy of all who work on their own car) I left the old, flattened oring in place when I did the previous oil change. It can be hard to see when it's flattened and your eyes are 60+ like mine. I also, at the same time placed the new oring in an incorrect spot, which looks like a willing circumference, near the end of the plastic cannister. This arrangement (old and misplaced new oring) was good enough to hold off a catastrophic leak, but not enough to prevent a slow leak which saturated the front undercover and a bit of the rear undercover. After a while the excess oil began to drip off the undercover. It took a while and a few cannister removals / installs for me to see the extra oring on the cannister and fix the problem. Arrrgh. I hope this helps someone!

Happens to the best of us. Sometimes mistakes happens when working on cars even to certified mechanics. Luckily your mistake was a simple fix with no engine damage. You only just wasted some fresh oil.

 

[Kyser_Soze]

Well, I made a mistake that cost me some time and brain cells, but fortunately not a lot of $. I decided to write a post so that others might be helped, despite my embarrassment. :/
I did the oil change including the filter on my 2015 5.0 about 3 months ago. The car began leaking oil recently. Up on the jacks, covers off, & the oil is seen seeping from the oil filter cannister where it (the plastic cannister) contacts the metal housing that it threads into. Long story short, in a bit of a rush and not paying close enough attention (the enemy of all who work on their own car) I left the old, flattened oring in place when I did the previous oil change. It can be hard to see when it's flattened and your eyes are 60+ like mine. I also, at the same time placed the new oring in an incorrect spot, which looks like a willing circumference, near the end of the plastic cannister. This arrangement (old and misplaced new oring) was good enough to hold off a catastrophic leak, but not enough to prevent a slow leak which saturated the front undercover and a bit of the rear undercover. After a while the excess oil began to drip off the undercover. It took a while and a few cannister removals / installs for me to see the extra oring on the cannister and fix the problem. Arrrgh. I hope this helps someone!

I don't know how much you save by diy, or if you like to do it yourself, but another poster with the 5.0 engine had a problem that required a new engine and Hyundai agreed to replace at no charge as long as they could prove proper maintenance, but the diy oil changes weren't proof, so they were left to pay for the engine themselves! I gladly pay for a paper trail!

 

[carguy75]

I don't know how much you save by diy, or if you like to do it yourself, but another poster with the 5.0 engine had a problem that required a new engine and Hyundai agreed to replace at no charge as long as they could prove proper maintenance, but the diy oil changes weren't proof, so they were left to pay for the engine themselves! I gladly pay for a paper trail!

I am DIY owner, however if the car is under a warranty then it would be best to have a shop or dealer service department keep records. However, if you DIY the oil changes you will need receipts of the oil/oil filter purchased and a log of the oil changes.

The dealer should not just decline you warranty repair because you change the oil yourself. The dealer also perform oil analysis(like Blackstone) that can tell if the oil has been ran for too long or if the wrong oil was used in the engine.

 

[G-57941]

I don't know how much you save by diy, or if you like to do it yourself, but another poster with the 5.0 engine had a problem that required a new engine and Hyundai agreed to replace at no charge as long as they could prove proper maintenance, but the diy oil changes weren't proof, so they were left to pay for the engine themselves! I gladly pay for a paper trail!

My 2015, at 116k miles is no longer under warranty. None the less, If I can do the repair, I will, due to the fact that I have ZERO trust in 99% of others who would put a wrench on my car. I have gone so far as to pull an engine out of a car to repair it myself, and would do so again to avoid mechanics ( especially at dealerships) who care little about getting everything correct.

 

[Kyser_Soze]

I am DIY owner, however if the car is under a warranty then it would be best to have a shop or dealer service department keep records. However, if you DIY the oil changes you will need receipts of the oil/oil filter purchased and a log of the oil changes.

The dealer should not just decline you warranty repair because you change the oil yourself. The dealer also perform oil analysis(like Blackstone) that can tell if the oil has been ran for too long or if the wrong oil was used in the engine.

This was a manufacturer decision, not the dealer. You're telling me what should happen. I'm telling you what did happen. For you to get what you think should happen, you're going to need to hire a lawyer and go up against an army of corporate lawyers. I'll just keep my hands clean and have extra peace of mind in case something happens. The odds are in our favor that nothing will happen, so there's that.

 

[skipgen]

My 2015, at 116k miles is no longer under warranty. None the less, If I can do the repair, I will, due to the fact that I have ZERO trust in 99% of others who would put a wrench on my car. I have gone so far as to pull an engine out of a car to repair it myself, and would do so again to avoid mechanics ( especially at dealerships) who care little about getting everything correct.

It took me forever to find a good Indie garage that I trust - They are definitely far & few between!

 

[Kyser_Soze]

My 2015, at 116k miles is no longer under warranty. None the less, If I can do the repair, I will, due to the fact that I have ZERO trust in 99% of others who would put a wrench on my car. I have gone so far as to pull an engine out of a car to repair it myself, and would do so again to avoid mechanics ( especially at dealerships) who care little about getting everything correct.

I get that. One major mistake every place makes that I've seen is the refill on an oil change. They use the dry fill amount listed by the manufacturer which will in most cases overfill a vehicle by about 1/2 quart. When I took my wife's Rav4 in, I told them the quantity to put in and they said "So you're going to put in an additive?" And I explained they have no idea what they are doing. They made notes that I requested it 1/2 quart low and when I pulled the dip stick, it's EXACTLY on the full line! When the oil is really clean, you might have to turn the stick sideways to see the break in the oil where the level is. Overfilling can cause the oil to get air mixed in and it doesn't lubricate properly with air.

My other fear is that they aren't going to install my under car panels properly. My car doesn't have the trap doors that open to make it easier to change the oil.

At 42,000 miles, I just tell them everything else they recommend isn't on the manufacturer's schedule. My car still looks new!

 

[carguy75]

This was a manufacturer decision, not the dealer. You're telling me what should happen. I'm telling you what did happen. For you to get what you think should happen, you're going to need to hire a lawyer and go up against an army of corporate lawyers. I'll just keep my hands clean and have extra peace of mind in case something happens. The odds are in our favor that nothing will happen, so there's that.

So there's that?

Well you told me

I have been DIY my engines for decades and never had an issue with any warranty coverage because of it. However, I never dealt with a bad dealership that would try anything to not perform warranty work on a car due to it having DIY oil changes performed by the owner or none dealer service centers. But it can happen I suppose.

Like I mentioned, it will always be best to have a dealer perform and log the oil changes while the engine is under warranty to avoid giving a dealer( or manufacturer) a reason to deny your claim.

For all we know the poster you are referring to that had a claim denied did not have great records of the oil changes performed with all the receipts; even if they posted that they did have the records they may not have had them really. Not everyone post factual information on a forum when the go on a rant about something they are not happy about; if it ever happen at all.

Note: Good record keeping would be spreadsheets or word documents files that are individually saved for each oil change that will have saved(or creation) dates for each oil change including scanned receipts. All the oil change files will then be placed in one oil change folder.

Some owners may try to create a new file that list all the oil changes in one file, but the file history would be too new after every save and look like you just created the file recently if an issue occurs. Not a good history or record for years worth of oil changes; and a possible claim denial.

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[joegr]

It's pretty easy to see, once looking inside the engine, if regular oil changes with good oil were done or not.
And then there's this:

 

[carguy75]

It's pretty easy to see, once looking inside the engine, if regular oil changes with good oil were done or not.
And then there's this:

That engine failure in the video is why I change my oil in all my cars every 4k miles. Newer engines are not very tolerant to running low on oil. Longer oil change intervals may work when the engine is new, but older engines usually start burning oil by 100k miles due to sticking piston rings, bad PCV valves, valve seals, etc. which can just allow an engine to run very low on oil by these 7k-10k oil changes and then the engine is toast like in the video.

In all my years I never had an engine fail due to changing the oil every 4k miles. Heck most of my old and current engines look new on the inside with over 100k miles on them when I pull the valve covers off to change a leaky gasket.

If you are keeping a car pass 100k miles, just change the oil every 4k miles and the engine will run forever or until you dump it mostly likely. Unless, you get one of the poorly manufactured 2.0 or 2.4 engines Hyundai/KIA put out back in 2011-2016. However, one of those would be knocking about 60k miles anyway if they were part of the recall.

 

[joegr]

I generally keep cars till at least 200K miles. I've never had an internal engine problem. I change oil at least every 5K miles, and use the best full synthetic I can find at a reasonable price. I also check the oil level every so often. This may be monthly (or longer) for low mileage engines that have never had any detectable oil usage, or weekly for the high mileage ones that tended to use a half quart or more between changes. My daughter had a 2012 Sonata 2.0t. She traded it at just under 200K. We never had any engine problems with it. I used 0W40 oil and changed every 4K miles.
I really wish I could convince my daughter and son-in-law of the importance of checking the oil level. He claims he has never heard of such...

 

[Bakonyi]

Personally, I prefer to perform my own maintenance on my vehicles. However, when I wanted to change the oil on my new G70, 3.3T, I couldn't for the life of me get the drain-plug out. I had a 12 point 17mm wrench would should be fine, but NOOOOOooooooo. Whomever put the drain-plug in my engine from the factory had used an air-gun. I was able to change out the filter, but couldn't drain the oil. I took it to the Hyundai/Genesis dealership, explaining the situation. They had to use a hammer and chisel to get the plug to come out. I paid for the new drain-plug. However, the service person told me, if damage occurs to the aluminum block in our effort to remove that plug, it won't be covered under warranty. I didn't reply to his bull$hit comment, since I knew the drain-plug over torque problem occurred during the time of manufacturing. I also knew, the drain-plug would come out eventually, without any damage to the block. I was employed as a mechanic for 27 years. It's just that now that I'm retired, I have no access to a lift for working on my vehicles. I've dealt with damaged engine drain-plugs, transfer-case plugs, differential plugs, and they are not a problem even when over torqued, unless you have to lay on the floor using low car ramps...with no room to work. The dealership will be performing my next oil/oil-filter change, but after that, it's all me.

 

[carguy75]

Personally, I prefer to perform my own maintenance on my vehicles. However, when I wanted to change the oil on my new G70, 3.3T, I couldn't for the life of me get the drain-plug out. I had a 12 point 17mm wrench would should be fine, but NOOOOOooooooo. Whomever put the drain-plug in my engine from the factory had used an air-gun. I was able to change out the filter, but couldn't drain the oil. I took it to the Hyundai/Genesis dealership, explaining the situation. They had to use a hammer and chisel to get the plug to come out. I paid for the new drain-plug. However, the service person told me, if damage occurs to the aluminum block in our effort to remove that plug, it won't be covered under warranty. I didn't reply to his bull$hit comment, since I knew the drain-plug over torque problem occurred during the time of manufacturing. I also knew, the drain-plug would come out eventually, without any damage to the block. I was employed as a mechanic for 27 years. It's just that now that I'm retired, I have no access to a lift for working on my vehicles. I've dealt with damaged engine drain-plugs, transfer-case plugs, differential plugs, and they are not a problem even when over torqued, unless you have to lay on the floor using low car ramps...with no room to work. The dealership will be performing my next oil/oil-filter change, but after that, it's all me.

I had similar issues with over-tighten drain plugs on cars that someone else changed the oil on. It is always best to use a six point socket(or wrench) for proper grip as not to round off the nut as 12 point sockets tend to do. And use a long breaker bar or strong air impact to break the bolt loose. Works every time.

I only used the hammer and chisel method before I learned better methods of removing stuck drain bolt. I am surprised a dealership service department used that method with better tools available.

Note: You can also use a bolt extractor tool for rounded nuts with and impact or breaker bar if the drain bolts rounds off. H

 

[lobsenza]

I am DIY owner, however if the car is under a warranty then it would be best to have a shop or dealer service department keep records. However, if you DIY the oil changes you will need receipts of the oil/oil filter purchased and a log of the oil changes.

The dealer should not just decline you warranty repair because you change the oil yourself. The dealer also perform oil analysis(like Blackstone) that can tell if the oil has been ran for too long or if the wrong oil was used in the engine.

I also keep part of the oil filter box for each oil change and mark the date and mileage on it. I do the same for air filter changes. It also impresses the buyer when you sell the car.