Oil!!!

EdP

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Toddasaurus

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@Alfer

There are differences in oil, significant differences. Motor oil companies constantly change their formulations as the Auto industry evolves. Forced induction is now mainstream, and with it comes increased demand on the engine, and with it, motor oil.

Modern day motor oil doesn't just get "dirty" from particulates entering the combustion chamber, and carbon deposits from the combustion process itself... Extremes in heat are common, especially with oil circulating around the turbocharger bearing(s) - the turbo shaft is in direct contact with the buildup of exhaust gasses and the heat that comes with it. Turbo flanges and downpipes are commonly heated significantly hotter than 1000°F, substantially hotter than any other part of the engine (as other components are actively cooled by coolant). This can fry your engine oil, causing breakdown, especially if driven hard, during stop and go traffic, and when shutting off the engine after getting really hot without letting things cool down first. This is especially applicable to our twin turbo engines.

If that wasn't enough, combustion blow-by is even more applicable than before forced induction was mainstream. The gasses and liquids both as components of combustion (ie air and fuel) along with products of combustion effectively mix with engine oil and, among other things, can result in shearing, which can and will reduce the oil's ability to protect the engine, or even keep it up to its advertised viscosity.

Modern certifications, like ACEA 5 and others, are intended to test the engine oil to last under conditions like this. In fact, some of the testing methods for said certifications are made public, so you can actually see how they test the oil. That said, certifications matter. Oil quality matters.

Here is a really popular YouTuber who did his own tests, comparing several popular motor oils against each other, using some testing methods that are actually similar to real world testing done by major oil companies. I'd strongly recommend watching at least a couple episodes to see not only the testing methods he uses, but also to validate the real differences between the brands he is testing - all of which are commonly considered top of the line.

Here: Motor Oil Testing - YouTube

I understand your logic and reasoning; but, oils are not created equal. Certifications matter. Lastly, using non-synthetic and non-compliant oil is putting your engine at risk, as there are testable differences between even the best synthetics - which are vastly different than some of the generic conventionals. Perhaps in the engines of yesteryear it wasn't as big of a deal, but it's an issue now more than ever.
 
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addysdaddy

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Frankly I would follow the manufacturers recommendation. Why are they recommending a blend over full synthetic? It's to their advantage to use the best "tool" for the job. Why cheap out on the lifeblood of their cars when it will cost them the difference +++ on repairing engines to save a few pennies in engine oil. YMMV.
 

danygenesis

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Frankly I would follow the manufacturers recommendation. Why are they recommending a blend over full synthetic? It's to their advantage to use the best "tool" for the job. Why cheap out on the lifeblood of their cars when it will cost them the difference +++ on repairing engines to save a few pennies in engine oil. YMMV.
The answer is simple, dealers would be the ones doing those engine repairs. That is a win-win situation for them. Less money on the oil, more profit repairing. ;)
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Rodney Dangerfield

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It does meet it. That is what my dealer uses so easy for me. . My point is, there are other oils that do not have the sticker but may be just as good.

There is no way for us to determine if there is any difference in wear 150,000 miles from now if you use a full synthetic or a blend so we tend to be cautious.
Either use conventional or full synthetic, there is no qualification for how much synthetic is in a blend. The full synthetic these days are cheap enough so it's more beneficial to use the full synthetic.

As a point of frugality, the Amazon Basics full synthetic is a very inexpensive and high quality oil that meets SN plus specs. The YouTube channel Project Farm has done some quasi scientific tests on different oils consistent with what you might find in extreme and normal usage conditions and the Amazon Basics performed very well.

I changed my oil this past weekend for the first time since owning my '11 4.6 and it wasn't that difficult compared to the Toyota I had previously. Interestingly, there was an odd part I wasn't expecting that was wedged behind the oil pan (see picture). I think it got sucked up into the hole below the drain plug.

Coming next year there will be two new oils offered which have 8 additional specs they have to pass. The new oils coming out of Japan, the 0W16 and soon 0W8, are what drove this change in US spec oils. GF-6A will be for the 0W16 and GF-6B will be the backwards compatible for all other oils of higher grade. Several YouTube channels and multiple publications have covered this topic. The 0W16 grade has been in use in Japan for over two decades and gives a 2% better fuel economy. This doesn't seem like much to the individual user, but for the manufacturer, like Toyota or Honda which has a large market share, it means a significant reduction in carbon footprint.
 

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Rodney Dangerfield

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EdP may support me on this one. When a boy I recall my father and his menfolk neighbors and such discussing cars of the time. Several men were conVINCED that one national gas company had better gas than another national company. I recall this well as I was at an impressionable age where I was learning to identify cars by make and model and pretending to know much more than I actually knew. Was it possible that one brand of gas (not octane) worked better in his car than another brand? I think so. Still, the oil discussion goes back to other petrol products, likely to kerosene and whale oil and coal and so on..
In the past, it might have been more true than it is today. These days, for the most part all major national brands are good gasolines. If you're buying from a mom and pop, there's no telling where they bought their fuel from and which detergents they have or don't have compared to major brands. If you care about the source of the crude, then brand matters. Alon and Valero are the only two I know of which use domestic crude oil only. Past that, most modern day gasolines are ok to use in just about any vehicle. Follow the manufacturer's recommendation for which grade as adding premium to a regular unleaded vehicle won't get you anything.

The octane rating only deals with the potential for detonation, or knock. VVT systems make it so you can run regular or premium and the VVT system will adjust so you don't experience knock. The fuel economy and power may be slightly affected, but you may not notice it. I fill up with 87 octane in my '11 4.6 because I checked the mileage on both 87 and 91 with a 0.5 mpg difference. Power differential is something like 10 hp so you won't even notice it. I still have plenty of power when I need it and it runs quietly. With the price difference from regular to premium widening by the day, it doesn't make sense to spend the money if you don't need to and it doesn't get you anything in the end.
 

Rodney Dangerfield

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First oil change I had them use Quaker State Ultimate Durability 5W-30 (or so they said they did). Didn't pay a dime. This time I was supposed to be charged $20.59 for the full synthetic. Dealer said Genesis only covers synthetic blended oil. I asked for the same oil, but this time the invoice says Mobil One was used. Not a fan of that stuff. Oh well I guess. They reimbursed me this time for the oil. Sounds like all they carry now is Mobil One.

First time I used the valet service too. I wasn't in their system, they said they had issues a few months ago but thought it was resolved. Guess not, glad I called them this morning asking where the driver was! They got here within 1/2 an hour and car was done within two hours.
If you have the ability once your service contract ends, change your own oil. It shouldn't take more than 30 minutes to do yourself and you can save a lot of money and you'll know what you're getting. The filters are very economical if you get them from RockAuto and Amazon Basics oil is high quality and inexpensive. Total cost for the 6.5 qts and filter is less than $50 with tax and shipping. I've seen as much as $100 quoted for oil changes after the service contract ends.
 

Michael_V

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Odds are dealers aren't going to toss in some cheapo depot oil so I'm not worried about that (and have no desire to bring my own and trust they use it).

If they use theirs and do the work, they are 100% liable for any issues. If I bring mine, that guarantee is wiped out.
I'm pretty sure guarantee is wiped out only if it's determined that your oil is the cause of the failure.
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Michael_V

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Yes, and agree with you and Alfer. I don't think any of us can truthfully say Quaker State is better or worse than Castrol or any other brand. Unless you do a test under controlled condition you have no idea how well it is performing. Even cheap oils today are pretty good.

When I was a teenager and cars tended to use more oil than today, I'd often add a quart of re-refined oil from the Merit gas station. I think it was about 25 cents. I burned/leaked about a quart every 500 miles.
The Merit station in my home town had what they called Houston Oil, back in the day. Came in clear glass containers with metal funnels.
 

CannonballRun

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I understand that everything will be fine if we use oil specified by Hyundai/Genesis to meet the weight and other certs...and that we change our oil at the required time/mileage...

Just curious, has anyone done research or an actual test on the major 5w30 brands (Castrol Edge, Mobil1, PP, Amsoil, RP, etc) to look at their additive package, VOA to test whether the oil stands up to what is advertised, and possible UOA? Yeah, I know, this would be an effort for sure but it would be interesting to see if there actually is an oil that comes out on top in the Genesis engine despite manufacturer requirements and certs.
 

EdP

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Rodney Dangerfield

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Most oils these days are very similar in what additives and amounts of those additives are put into them. Look for the circle which will say SN or SN Plus. Go for the SN Plus if possible. Doesn't really matter the name on the bottle. Most all of the store brands are made by just a handful of manufacturers. As long as they meet the spec specified by the manufacturer there should be no issue. You shouldn't have to get LiquiMoly or Motul racing oil for anything you'd be doing in a Genesis.
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Toddasaurus

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I believe @EdP is referring to this oil test found on YouTube.

Motor Oil Testing - YouTube

The videos are worth watching - though the testing environment may not be perfect, it does shed some light on the differences between oils. Many certs mean something, some certifications are just essentially receipt of payment. It's nice to see some real world, 3rd party testing like the ones above.
 

Rodney Dangerfield

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[/QUOTE]
The videos are worth watching - though the testing environment may not be perfect, it does shed some light on the differences between oils. Many certs mean something, some certifications are just essentially receipt of payment. It's nice to see some real world, 3rd party testing like the ones above.
[/QUOTE]

Yeah, Project Farm is pretty good about how he sets up the experiments so they’re all being tested the same and going through some real world use and abuse.
 

CoconutRob

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I researched oil several years ago for my Harley and decided on amsoil. For all other vehicles Mobile 1. Now with my G70 decided on amsoil signature series seems to outperform in all categories and with the ILSAC GF-5 Plus rating that is good for our engines. I didnt realize Mobilr 1 didnt have this rating

 

CVODON

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EdP the Shell station across the street from the old DeSears bldg in Palmetto used to have a decal on the pumps proclaiming Top Tier. Haven't been there in a minute so it may no longer have that but at one time it did.
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TinsleyC

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Yup, simple and easy to read.

It is interesting that our cars have a Quaker State recommendation sticker under the hood, but require ACEA A5 oil, but Quaker State's best Full Synthetic doesn't meet the spec.

I'll stick to Pennzoil Platinum or Ultra Platinum.

Edit: attaching specs
 

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Husky

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Yup, simple and easy to read.

It is interesting that our cars have a Quaker State recommendation sticker under the hood, but require ACEA A5 oil, but Quaker State's best Full Synthetic doesn't meet the spec.

I'll stick to Pennzoil Platinum or Ultra Platinum.
I thought I saw a recommendation or sticker for Shell Helix oil, but not only is it expensive and hard to find, it doesn't meet ACEA 5 either.
 

EdP

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