Rigid Collars installation

[flynblind]

Just finished the install of the Uniq Rigid Collars on my 2013 RSpec. Here is my step by step installation. Pictures were taken with a cell phone. Please excuse the poor quality.

A couple of things to keep in mind.

• Use the proper tools for the job.
  1. Torque wrench
  2. Impact gun
  3. Impact sockets
  4. Pry bar
  5. Socket wrench
  6. Dead-blow hammer
  7. Jacks, Jack stands, hydraulic lift, transmission jack, other acceptable vehicle\engine jacking machinery
• This is my method, mileage may vary.
• If you don't want to risk damaging something, don't do it!
• I would rate this as "Intermediate" skills required.

There are 10 rigid collars. 8 are marked with R (regular), one with F (fine), one is unmarked and has a very slim collar.

1. Remove the three splash guards protecting the transmission and engine components.
   
   1. Start from the rear most splash guard.
   2. Work your way forward until removing the front most splash guard.
   3. Splash guards are held on by a mixture of regular bolts, slip nuts, and normal metal nuts.
2. Find the 6 bolts connecting the front sub-frame.
3. Picture of the sub-frame can be found at: http://www.hyundaipartsaccessories.com/auto-parts/2013/hyundai/genesis/5-0-r-spec-trim/5-0l-v8-gas-engine/suspension-cat/suspension-springs-and-related-components-scat/10755705-assy
   • Mine were marked with a distinctive pinkish mark.
     
     
     
     
     
4. Place a sturdy support under the rear portion of the sub-frame.
5. Loosen all 6 bolts slightly.
   1. Make sure not to loosen all the way
   2. Keep enough support on the sub-frame to hold it in place
   3. Use the transmission stand/jack to hold the rear portion tight against the uni-body
6. Find the rear, driver side bolt holding the sub-frame.
7. Remove this bolt.
8. Find the unmarked Uniq rigid collar.
9. Slide the collar into place (Photo shows a "R" collar in place).
   
   
   1. This is the only collar that will fit into the opening.
   2. This is the tightest tolerance of all of the mounting points.
   3. This is the only mounting point where you can not move the sub-frame to install the bolt.
10. Replace bolt and hand tighten all the way until the bolt is against the collar.
11. Find the rear, passenger side bolt holding the sub-frame.
12. Remove this bolt.
13. Find the Uniq rigid collar marked with a "F".
14. Remove the bolt completely.
    1. Make sure the rear part of the sub-frame is supported sufficiently.
15. Slide the collar into place.
16. Replace bolt and hand tighten all the way until the bolt is against the collar.
17. Release pressure on the jack holding the rear sub-frame up.
    1. Do this slowly and carefully.
    2. Double check that the front bolts are not too loose.
    3. Front bolts need to support the weight of the suspension at this point.
18. Move jack/transmission stand to the front of the sub-frame.
    1. Make sure that the jack is supporting the front of the sub-frame completely.
19. Remove and replace the other 4 bolts one by one.
    1. Find the bolt.
    2. Remove the bolt completely.
    3. Place the rigid collar marked with "R" into the hole.
    4. Hand tighten bolt against the collar.
    1. It might be necessary to move the sub-frame around to start the bolt.
    2. It might be necessary to loosen the rear, passenger side bolt slightly to give some play in the sub-frame.
    3. Use a prying tool in a safe spot.
    4. Pry again the sub-frame and uni-body.
    5. Do not pry against the motor, transmission, or any of the electric and hydraulic lines under the car.
20. Once all of the front bolts are replaced by hand, tighten each of the bolts.
    1. Impact the bolts into place.
    2. Torque the bolts to the required torque settings.
    3. Double check all 6 bolts.
21. Replace the three splash guards in opposite order of how they were removed.
22. Locate the 2 forward-most, rear suspension bolts marked with the pinkish mark.
    
    
23. The suspension is held by the pinkish marked bolt.
24. The uni-body the connected with the yellow marked nuts.
25. Place a jack/transmission jack on the rear cross member which supports the suspension near to the side where you are working.
26. Remove the bolt and nuts holding the bracket in place.
    1. It might be necessary to remove the splash guards covering the yellow marked nuts.
    
27. Place the collar between the bracket and the mounting point.
28. Replace the bracket and bolts/nuts.
29. Impact the bolt/nuts into place.
30. Torque the bolt/nuts to the required torque settings.
31. Find the rear-most, rear suspension bolts marked with the pinkish mark.
    
    
32. Remove the nut.
33. Remove the cupped stopper.
    
    
    
    
    
34. Place the collar between the stopper and the cross member bushing.
35. Replace the stopper and the nut.
36. Torque the nut to the required torque settings.
37. Repeat the same process for the other side of the vehicle.
38. Be sure to support the side of the suspension that you are working on with a jack.
39. Double check all torque settings on all of the bolts and nut.
40. Take your vehicle in for a 4 wheel alignment!!

 

[Hazim]

Nice write up. But you did not mention the proper torque for each bolt ?

 

[flynblind]

I was not going to mention the exact torque settings as I did an unscientific method to determine how tight to torque them.

I used a torque wrench calibrated to different settings and physically felt where it would turn the bolt 1/8th of a rotation before it would click, then upped it 10lbs (done before removing any of the bolts). I repeated this process on several bolts before decided on a torque setting that was consistent.

Since I am unsure of the exact, proper torque settings, I am not going to post them to avoid the inevitable backlash.

 

[Hazim]

Thank you for your respond

 

[R-Spectable]

Thanks flynblind for the guide! I just received my set and was going to have my dealership install these and then perform a 4 wheel alignment. But my question is, do you think the techs at the dealer know which collar to put in which location? Or do you think I should print out your detailed instructions and bring them along before they do the install? I'd be able to do this, myself, in my youth. But I'm too old now to be rolling around on the garage floor with all that jack-action going on. Thank you sir!

 

[flynblind]

Thanks flynblind for the guide! I just received my set and was going to have my dealership install these and then perform a 4 wheel alignment. But my question is, do you think the techs at the dealer know which collar to put in which location? Or do you think I should print out your detailed instructions and bring them along before they do the install? I'd be able to do this, myself, in my youth. But I'm too old now to be rolling around on the garage floor with all that jack-action going on. Thank you sir!

The collars themselves do not indicate location. The dealership could probably figure it out with a little trial and error like I did. But, like us, they also use reference guides to make the installation easier.

If I had this information when I did mine and was going to have anyone else do it, I would have these handy to give the installer an edge on getting the job done. Since these cars are not a "dime a dozen" and the dealership probably rarely removes anything from the frame, I would be surprised if the mechanics there have ever removed a sub-frame bolt from the engine cradle on a Genesis.

 

[amartz]

I would be surprised if the mechanics there have ever removed a sub-frame bolt from the engine cradle on a Genesis.

That was certainly the case where I took mine to be done.

 

[R-Spectable]

That was certainly the case where I took mine to be done.

If you don't mind me asking amartz, where did you get your's done? I work in High Point.

 

[amartz]

If you don't mind me asking amartz, where did you get your's done? I work in High Point.

Carolina Kia on North Main. The Genesis tech had never seen these, but I brought in the instructions from the thread, and he put it up in the air, and we worked it out. He should ought to remember me and my car. I had this done sometime around January, I think. He took it out and drove it afterwards, and was impressed with the handling.

 

[R-Spectable]

Thanks amartz! This is where I was going to take my car. I'll see if I can get the same guy to do my car.

 

[amartz]

I used to remember his name, but it escapes me now. But the service writers should also remember me getting this done, it's not exactly an everyday event.

 

[R-Spectable]

What did they charge you for installation? Did you get the 4 wheel alignment through them too?

 

[amartz]

What did they charge you for installation? Did you get the 4 wheel alignment through them too?

I don't remember exactly, I think it was their standard rate for 1 hour shop time, if I remember correctly. With an $80 4 wheel alignment, I don't think the bill was over $200, but I won't swear to it. And he showed me the alignment specs after the install, before the alignment. It was *way* out of spec, you wouldn't want to drive it at all until the alignment was done. I'd consider that a *mandatory* part of the install.

 

[R-Spectable]

Thanks for the info! I've already set up an appointment for next week.

 

[amartz]

Tell 'em Hey for me! Let us know how it goes, and how you like the collars. Ask about the little side road loop out behind the dealership, it's got a few nice curves and a sharp right angle. You might even try driving that before the install, and then after.

 

[srobak]

2 questions regarding this...

Please pardon the bluntness - but is this for real? Does it truly make that much of a difference? It does have a pretty strong hint of snake-oil odor to it.... seems a bit gimmicky... but I am also an optimist and would love to be convinced otherwise. What differences can I seriously and HONESTLY expect to see/have/feel?

Second - if indeed this does turn out to be all that and a bag of chips - is it available for the 15 G2 sedan? Is it appropriate for such a car - keeping in mind that it will NOT be used for performance driving, but mostly for long-distance commuting and touring.

Thanks

 

[amartz]

This has been much discussed earlier. I can only speak for the Gen1, I would assume the Gen2 would benefit also. The change does not make the suspension "stiffer" or negatively affect the ride quality. What it does is make the front and back sub-frames more solidly connected to the body, and reduces flexing in the body, resulting in a much more solid and noticeably more sure-footed car. And it's not like you are spending thousands of $$s to buy and install them.

For example, I used to drive every day on a rural road where I make a rolling stop and a 90-degree turn, immediately giving it throttle to climb a hill. As is normal for a rwd car, the right-rear tire would want to lift and spin. Then the ESC would kick in, and abruptly shut me down for a long second or two (seemed like for-ever), and then after the car settled down, give me some throttle back to climb the hill. It caused me to be fairly cautious with the throttle for a couple seconds, to avoid the ESC nanny.

After the rigid collars were installed, the ESC nanny hardly ever kicked in any more, and if it did, was very brief. Why? Because it didn't see the wheel spin any more. Because the rear wheel was staying much more firmly planted now. Because the body wasn't flexing like it used to. Making for a much more enjoyable drive at that particular intersection. But the sure-footedness is noticeable cruising down the interstate as well.

Having lived with it for more than a half year now, it's well worth the modest cost in my book.

 

[R-Spectable]

The reduced wheel spin and less and nanny-ism from the ESC is the kicker for me. On my way home from work I have to take left turn from Clinard Farms road onto Sandy Ridge Road which is a busy SOB!
I did the flapper mod to get the juice to the wheels faster and it does. But now I get the wheel spin and ESC bog when I do. So, I'm hoping the collars seal the deal and get me up and moving out of the turn. Plus we are taking a road trip to IL and I want to get the most out that ride. I will definitely post my experiences after the install.

 

[amartz]

The reduced wheel spin and less and nanny-ism from the ESC is the kicker for me. On my way home from work I have to take left turn from Clinard Farms road onto Sandy Ridge Road which is a busy SOB!

If I told you I have a house in Colfax (Oakridge eventually), then you'd know I know the intersection you are talking about! I'm usually the one going by in front of you, to Johnson to High Point! Small World! The turn I was talking about was off Ballard, right onto Cude, north of the Airport.

 

[R-Spectable]

I might have seen you the other day at that intersection. I was sitting a couple back and saw a black Genesis heading up Sandy Ridge. Next time I'll expect you to let me out!

Still haven't gotten the collars on. I had to put it off as it was time for my wife to get the timing belt/water pump done on her Pilot.
And our dog needs surgery done on a partial tear on his ACL...NOT CHEAP!
I'll do it soon enough and post my feedback.