Sub and Amp Install

ncrashb

Registered Member
77
46
18
MB, Canada
Genesis Model Year
2020
Genesis Model Type
Genesis G70
So.. dumb question
Are you saying you just cut those sub wires and then added wires that run to the powered sub (in my case a powered sub)?
You could cut them to piggyback your wires off of them, or if you have the patience and hands for it, I'd recommend just stripping a small section of the OEM wire shielding to expose the wires, insert your amp signal wire and then solder them together. Then tape up that section with electrical tape. Or just snip them, strip back a bit of wire, twist em together then tape. That method tends to come undone over time though and is not as solid of a connection signal-wise (potential voltage loss/waste).

Then yes, those wires you splice into the OEM ones then connect to your sub amp's input/line-in. The OEM voltage is high enough to not require a powered PAC module in between the OEM wire and the amp thankfully.
Try to ensure your amp has built in "Auto On/Off" support for sensing signal and turning on so that it doesn't just stay powered on 24/7; aftermarket head units have a signal wire for that specifically however since we're not replacing the head unit, you'll need to cover that another way. If your amp doesn't support that, you could run a wire from your amp's "Remote turn on" port up to the cabin and have a On/Off switch to manually control the amp's power.
 

Jedclampet

New member
13
0
1
Genesis Model Year
2022
Genesis Model Type
Genesis G70
You could cut them to piggyback your wires off of them, or if you have the patience and hands for it, I'd recommend just stripping a small section of the OEM wire shielding to expose the wires, insert your amp signal wire and then solder them together. Then tape up that section with electrical tape. Or just snip them, strip back a bit of wire, twist em together then tape. That method tends to come undone over time though and is not as solid of a connection signal-wise (potential voltage loss/waste).

Then yes, those wires you splice into the OEM ones then connect to your sub amp's input/line-in. The OEM voltage is high enough to not require a powered PAC module in between the OEM wire and the amp thankfully.
Try to ensure your amp has built in "Auto On/Off" support for sensing signal and turning on so that it doesn't just stay powered on 24/7; aftermarket head units have a signal wire for that specifically however since we're not replacing the head unit, you'll need to cover that another way. If your amp doesn't support that, you could run a wire from your amp's "Remote turn on" port up to the cabin and have a On/Off switch to manually control the amp's power.
Question my plan would be to avoid removing the seats and the stock subs to disconnect them and tap the wires for my powered sub from the current speaker leads . With that said on the previous page the wire colors Brown and White for drivers side and Blue and Red for the passenger side are they at that point exiting the amp and heading towards the subs? So I would cut them and splice my connection to the connector side ? Does that sound right just wanting to confirm. I plan to add a 10 inch powered

Audison APBX10AS2​

 

ncrashb

Registered Member
77
46
18
MB, Canada
Genesis Model Year
2020
Genesis Model Type
Genesis G70
Question my plan would be to avoid removing the seats and the stock subs to disconnect them and tap the wires for my powered sub from the current speaker leads . With that said on the previous page the wire colors Brown and White for drivers side and Blue and Red for the passenger side are they at that point exiting the amp and heading towards the subs? So I would cut them and splice my connection to the connector side ? Does that sound right just wanting to confirm. I plan to add a 10 inch powered

Audison APBX10AS2​


I didn't touch my seats or stock subs. My buddy suggested disconnecting them when tapping the lines to get our signal but I decided to keep them wired (prob better without them, but meh, didn't want to unbalance the oem amp or anything if it expects to see that resistance). So we stripped the oem sub wires in the rear of the car near the amp to connect our wiring which provides my aftermarket amp with signal.

I cannot recall any details regarding the wire colours or orientation other than what I have in photos. You can always test them with a 9V battery (Google this) to determine if you have the correct wires in hand. Just need someone up front to listen to hear where the pop comes from when testing.
 
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