torque wrench question

[hokie1525]

Stupid question...I was looking into getting a torque wrench and I'm not sure if I want 1/2" or 3/8"? I'd rather not buy two, and I would like to use it on the oil filter socket which takes a 3/8", and the shorter handle is nice for the tight space.

My question is...Will the 3/8" work on the lug nuts? Or will it be impossible to remove them without the longer handle and additional torque provided by the 1/2" wrench? Is 90 ft lb enough for the lugs?

 

[kn5owa]

Stupid question...I was looking into getting a torque wrench and I'm not sure if I want 1/2" or 3/8"? I'd rather not buy two, and I would like to use it on the oil filter socket which takes a 3/8", and the shorter handle is nice for the tight space.

My question is...Will the 3/8" work on the lug nuts? Or will it be impossible to remove them without the longer handle and additional torque provided by the 1/2" wrench? Is 90 ft lb enough for the lugs?

I keep a spare breaker bar in my trunk with a deep socket for breaking frozen lug nuts. It's a half inch drive setup & I can't imagine using anything less.

 

[williakz]

Stupid question...I was looking into getting a torque wrench and I'm not sure if I want 1/2" or 3/8"? I'd rather not buy two, and I would like to use it on the oil filter socket which takes a 3/8", and the shorter handle is nice for the tight space.

My question is...Will the 3/8" work on the lug nuts? Or will it be impossible to remove them without the longer handle and additional torque provided by the 1/2" wrench? Is 90 ft lb enough for the lugs?

You need two torque wrenches, one 3/8" for low torque applications and a 1/2" monster for the big stuff. Right tool for the job kinda thing...

P.S. I found a couple old Craftsman Digitork wrenches online, and they've been doing their thing ever since.

 

[losboricua]

2 torque wrenches are a must. For the oil filter I don't use the torque wrenches. I go by feel.

 

[xiaphin]

Typically for oil filer you get it snug by hand and then go another 1/4 turn.

Those with the Craftsman Digitork I learned that it doesn't click when torquing bolts that are LH thread. End result was an overtorqued transmission shaft nut for an S2000.

Half inch drive for the lugnuts for sure.

 

[williakz]

Those with the Craftsman Digitork I learned [the hard way] that it doesn't click when torquing bolts that are LH thread.

You must have in mind different versions of the Sears Craftsman Digitork wrenches than I have. I just tested each of mine (1/2 and 3/8 drives), and both of them break as expected in either clockwise or counterclockwise torquing directions. I set torque at 25 ft-lbs on each, and tested their let-offs in both directions on a handy tire lug that had been torqued to well above my test setting. While I did not calibrate the let-off points in either direction, they felt qualitatively comparable to me. Below is a pic of the Digitork type I have (OLD ones I got online quite a while ago).

 

[mikec]

Generally it is not recommended to use a torque wrench to remove stuff. That's what breaker bars are for. So buy the smaller torque wrench to tighten the filter cap and possibly the lug nuts and buy a breaker bar to remove the lug nuts. Or one of those big "+" shaped lug nut wrenches instead of a breaker bar; they work quite well and can be used on different cars.

Note that a "beefy" torque wrench typically won't be very accurate at lower torque settings either. Personally I'd not trust a torque wrench when trying to use it at 25% or less of its maximum capacity. And hold the wrench properly too! A lot of folks miss this, especially when using the older deflecting beam style torque wrenches (those with a fat bar for the load and a skinny bar for the pointer). On many torque wrenches you'll notice the handle has a pivot in the center. While tightening you need to hold that handle such that the handle ends are NOT touching the main shaft of the wrench. All of your hand force must be applied through that pivot point. And the tightening should be one steady motion - from a bit below the desired torque. Even when tightening a freshly cleaned stud+nut, torque is slightly higher just getting the nut to move, then torque drops once the nut starts moving. With "clicker" style torque wrenches you want to be sure you're starting the final tightening pull a bit below the desired torque (to make sure you don't trip the clicker) and smoothly pull into the desired torque. If that last pull was less than about a quarter turn... it's probably advisable to loosen the nut and try again for accuracy.

Another thing many folks don't know about their torque wrenches: a regularly used torque wrench requires calibration every so often. Most home users don't use the torque wrench often enough to worry about calibration... quality auto shops though calibrate once or twice a year since they use torque wrenches frequently. Using a torque wrench to loosen extra-tight stuff (instead of the breaker bar) will affect the accuracy much more quickly. The "shock loads" of a tight fastener suddenly releasing hurt the calibration.

mike c.

 

[xiaphin]

You're right I've got a slightly different Torque Wrench. Crafstman 1/2-in. Dr. Digi-Click Torque Wrench, 25-250 ft. lbs.

 

[williakz]

Thanks for the great set of "Dos and Dont's" Mike. Saved to disk.

 

[Sluh]

Typically for oil filer you get it snug by hand and then go another 1/4 turn.

Woa! Not on cartridge type filter please!!!! You will break the cap in pieces if you will turn it 1/4 turn further after it bottomed out. The seal is around the cap, not at the bottom. Just screw it down till it stops and tighten a bit with reasonable force. Even if you will just hand tighten it will not leak.

As for torque wrenches - Harbor freight ones are 10$ on sale and serve me well for 7 years so far. Just never use them as a breaker bar and test them once in a while with a known weight over known leverage length if you're feel like, mine three were always within 5% tolerance. I use 300-600$ ones at work and they require annual calibration test too, just feel nicer in your hands.

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[kn5owa]

Woa! Not on cartridge type filter please!!!! You will break the cap in pieces if you will turn it 1/4 turn further after it bottomed out. The seal is around the cap, not at the bottom. Just screw it down till it stops and tighten a bit with reasonable force. Even if you will just hand tighten it will not leak.

Good point - lube the O-rings - then tighten the cap until it stops rotating - very simple. No leaks.

 

[williakz]

It's easy to remember torques for Toyota/Lexus oil changes: 10-20-30 on the filter canister cap (if supplied), the venerable filter canister itself, and the engine oil drain plug, respectively, in ft-lbs.

 

[Ntp112]

can someone tell me the size of the deep socket wrench needed for a 2016 hyundai genesis 3.8L lug nuts? I can't find in the manual and my car is in the shop.

 

[NC356]

Mine are 21mm; same car as yours