Traction Control 70+

[onecrappie]

First post, new to the G70. Have the 3.3T. Under hard acceleration getting onto the highway in comfort mode the car loses power. I noticed the traction control started coming on. This has happened a couple times so far.

Is this a "feature", known issue, or an annoyance? Yesterday it shut me down at 99 mph. After work today I'll try it in sport and see if I can replicate the issue. Thanks in advance!

 

[dareckibmw]

"Wrong size" of the tires would actually trigger a traction control. It happened to me a few times, when getting on on ramp curve. (2018 G80 sport awd)

 

[Genny Guy]

First post, new to the G70. Have the 3.3T. Under hard acceleration getting onto the highway in comfort mode the car loses power. I noticed the traction control started coming on. This has happened a couple times so far.

Is this a "feature", known issue, or an annoyance? Yesterday it shut me down at 99 mph. After work today I'll try it in sport and see if I can replicate the issue. Thanks in advance!

Was it wet out?

 

[onecrappie]

It wasn't wet out. I'll have to check to see if the tire size is the same as stock. Just kind of strange issue to have. I also read that the wheel speed sensor may be dirty.

 

[onecrappie]

After some investigation I found that the front tires are supposed to be 225 and there are 235s installed. It's only 1" difference but equates to 10 more revolutions/mi. I suspect you're correct that the tire size difference is the culprit. Looks like I'll be buying 2 front tires for my car to see if that fixes the issue. Thanks

 

[Genny Guy]

After some investigation I found that the front tires are supposed to be 225 and there are 235s installed. It's only 1" difference but equates to 10 more revolutions/mi. I suspect you're correct that the tire size difference is the culprit. Looks like I'll be buying 2 front tires for my car to see if that fixes the issue. Thanks

I'm surprised that that small of a difference is affecting you in this way. I run 245s in the front and 275s on the back and haven't had this happen. I'm not saying that it isn't the culprit though. Keep us posted.

 

[JCtx]

After some investigation I found that the front tires are supposed to be 225 and there are 235s installed. It's only 1" difference but equates to 10 more revolutions/mi.

The difference is 1 CM in WIDTH, not 1 inch . And assuming the same aspect ratio of 40%, the difference in diameter is 8mm more (4mm more in radius), so the difference in circumference (and revolutions per mile) is minimal. It could still have an impact on TC, but really doubt it's that sensitive. What's most likely happening is you have cold tires, so they're real easy to slip under power, especially if RWD only. And if you're turning at the same time, that'd explain that as well. You could also select sport mode, to lessen intervention threshold. Hope this helps.

 

[slimjim2525]

The tires are not the issue. Have over sized tires onmine and track it. Hit 133mph with no issues.

 

[onecrappie]

Hmmm, I'm not sure then. The TC shouldn't be going off 70+ (intermittent). I can regularly reproduce it at 95+, it's annoying when you're in it and all the sudden you lose power. Either the wheel speed sensor isn't reading or tires size is causing it. Need to find a friend with an odb or something to get real time readings.

I'll figure it out eventually. On another note, TIFU and ground a rim... really ticked me off. I'm used to driving a lifted Z71 on 35s where I just run over everything. Such is life...

 

[Nameneeded]

A bit late to the party but what is the full size of the tire? you mention 235/?/? on teh front. What's on the rear?

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[onecrappie]

A bit late to the party but what is the full size of the tire? you mention 235/?/? on teh front. What's on the rear?

255/35 I believe. Whatever stock is

 

[onecrappie]

The difference is 1 CM in WIDTH, not 1 inch . And assuming the same aspect ratio of 40%, the difference in diameter is 8mm more (4mm more in radius), so the difference in circumference (and revolutions per mile) is minimal. It could still have an impact on TC, but really doubt it's that sensitive. What's most likely happening is you have cold tires, so they're real easy to slip under power, especially if RWD only. And if you're turning at the same time, that'd explain that as well. You could also select sport mode, to lessen intervention threshold. Hope this helps.

Yes, I know it's 1 CM in width but translates to 1" difference in circumference. See screen shot.

I've been researching more, maybe it's wheel hop? In any case TC kicks on at 100 90% of the time. The tires are relatively new.

 

[Nameneeded]

The diff in diameter between your front and rear may be the issue. Width doesn't matter. Diameter does and right now it is out of spec vs your rears.

Stock setup has the diameters at .4% difference. Right now witht he 235/40/19's on teh front and the 255/35/19's on teh rear you are at a 1.5% difference. May be enough to set off the TC.

 

[geh70]

FINALLY, someone else has the same issue... CAN CONFIRM...

• the flashing TC light occurred prior to new tires when i had the OE tires still at 225/40r19....
• AND now that I upgraded to the MICHELIN® CrossClimate2 @235/40r19.... it still occurs just as frequently.
• That is in "Smart, ECO, Comfort, and Custom (sport steering, comfort drivetrain)".

I will admit the roads i currently drive are not the smoothest. However, there have been times on freshly paved roads... with warm tires (post 30 minutes of 50+ mph driving) that I have gone to overtake another vehicle.. and the power has done the cut-off mess. On several instances this has cause a less than ideal amount of room to complete the overtake IMO.

For now the only "solution" is to switch to SPORT... Overtake the vehicle.. then go back to eco/smart.

My experience typically happens with starting speeds of 50-60 so typical highway speed... then I accelerate maybe 5/8ths from the pedal being 100% floored.... the car will increase about 5-7mph, then essentially loose 90-95% of power. Since I'm typically overtaking a car.. haven't been able to check if the Traction Control light flashes prior.. but I do know it flashes during the power loss.

One of two ways to get the power restored is to completely let off the accelerator (my least favorite option particularly for overtaking a car on a 2-lane highway).. then gradually press the accelerator again. This option works about 60-70% of the time. Although the accelerator release step, in some cases, has to be done Twice. Hence the dislike. Be that as it may, my brain often defaults to this one because coming from a 2012 3.6 Chrysler 200... I didn't have the "mode" switching... so turning a dial during/prior to acceleration to make sure i don't collide with oncoming traffic has not been a regular step in the "step-on-it" process.

The other option is to... switch to SPORT mode... although the accelerator still has to be released long enough for the TC flashing light to stop before you can accelerate like normal again. (If i didn't initiate the overtake with SPORT mode selected)

Brought it in to the dealership... to take care of the Trunk latch recall... and potentially get the rotors resurfaced after reading about the TSB somewhere else on the forums. Recall done... basically a no due to a lack of severity on the resurface.. essentially it will need to be worse before they can submit it under a warranty request (meh... its getting worse so in another month it should qualify)

While it was there I got to do a test drive to show the brake wobble from the rotors.. and also attempted to replicate the power-cut.. but typical as dealership drives go.. couldn't get it to replicate and daughter was in the car-seat so wasn't taking any chances in the DFW traffic.

Apologies for the long windedness. Just glad I'm not the only one... and hopefully someone can figure all this out. with a 100 mile round trip commute.. plenty of opportunity to keep attempting to annotate other random details of when this sketchy TC flashing occurs... Curious if more people are experiencing this.. saw a similar post on the Stinger Forums related to a faulty fuel pump. But dealership said they didn't see any codes during their scan. Of course...

Anyways details always help. So wanted to add mine.

 

[onecrappie]

FINALLY, someone else has the same issue... CAN CONFIRM...

• the flashing TC light occurred prior to new tires when i had the OE tires still at 225/40r19....
• AND now that I upgraded to the MICHELIN® CrossClimate2 @235/40r19.... it still occurs just as frequently.
• That is in "Smart, ECO, Comfort, and Custom (sport steering, comfort drivetrain)".

I will admit the roads i currently drive are not the smoothest. However, there have been times on freshly paved roads... with warm tires (post 30 minutes of 50+ mph driving) that I have gone to overtake another vehicle.. and the power has done the cut-off mess. On several instances this has cause a less than ideal amount of room to complete the overtake IMO.

For now the only "solution" is to switch to SPORT... Overtake the vehicle.. then go back to eco/smart.

My experience typically happens with starting speeds of 50-60 so typical highway speed... then I accelerate maybe 5/8ths from the pedal being 100% floored.... the car will increase about 5-7mph, then essentially loose 90-95% of power. Since I'm typically overtaking a car.. haven't been able to check if the Traction Control light flashes prior.. but I do know it flashes during the power loss.

One of two ways to get the power restored is to completely let off the accelerator (my least favorite option particularly for overtaking a car on a 2-lane highway).. then gradually press the accelerator again. This option works about 60-70% of the time. Although the accelerator release step, in some cases, has to be done Twice. Hence the dislike. Be that as it may, my brain often defaults to this one because coming from a 2012 3.6 Chrysler 200... I didn't have the "mode" switching... so turning a dial during/prior to acceleration to make sure i don't collide with oncoming traffic has not been a regular step in the "step-on-it" process.

The other option is to... switch to SPORT mode... although the accelerator still has to be released long enough for the TC flashing light to stop before you can accelerate like normal again. (If i didn't initiate the overtake with SPORT mode selected)

Brought it in to the dealership... to take care of the Trunk latch recall... and potentially get the rotors resurfaced after reading about the TSB somewhere else on the forums. Recall done... basically a no due to a lack of severity on the resurface.. essentially it will need to be worse before they can submit it under a warranty request (meh... its getting worse so in another month it should qualify)

While it was there I got to do a test drive to show the brake wobble from the rotors.. and also attempted to replicate the power-cut.. but typical as dealership drives go.. couldn't get it to replicate and daughter was in the car-seat so wasn't taking any chances in the DFW traffic.

Apologies for the long windedness. Just glad I'm not the only one... and hopefully someone can figure all this out. with a 100 mile round trip commute.. plenty of opportunity to keep attempting to annotate other random details of when this sketchy TC flashing occurs... Curious if more people are experiencing this.. saw a similar post on the Stinger Forums related to a faulty fuel pump. But dealership said they didn't see any codes during their scan. Of course...

Anyways details always help. So wanted to add

OP here, there are a couple things I'm going to try. One, I'm going to put on the factory size tires up front and see if that fixes the issue. If it doesn't, I'll just have spare tires.

Next, I'm going to take it to a small shop and have them watch the wheel speed sensors, see if they are bad. A wheel speed sensor is just a prox switch (magnet gets close to metal closes the circuit). Maybe the switch isn't opening fast enough at high speed? Even a slight delay would cause issues at high speed.

Third, I'm wondering if there isn't some kind of wheel hop happening. At those speeds there shouldn't be enough torque to cause issues like that, but maybe bumpy road???

 

[JCtx]

Why not just put it in sport mode, and call it a day? Even in sport mode, mine shifts like a grandma, still lugging the engine sometimes. And TCS is quite intrusive, even if in some cars, like yours, is a little bit more than others. So even in sport mode, I'm almost always driving with the paddles. If you want to make aggressive passes, it absolutely should be in sport mode. The difference in fuel consumption with other modes is reportedly minimal when driving at the same pace. And if fuel consumption was your absolute priority, maybe a Prius would have been a better purchase. Or the more fuel efficient 2.0T SP I ended up buying (after returning a defective 3.3T SP). Anyway, if I was having that issue in sport mode, maybe I'd try to find a solution. But if sport mode solves it, there's no problem in my book, since Hyundai is not going to change the TC programming in the 'easy' modes when sport does what you want.

 

[Husky]

OP here, there are a couple things I'm going to try. One, I'm going to put on the factory size tires up front and see if that fixes the issue. If it doesn't, I'll just have spare tires.

Next, I'm going to take it to a small shop and have them watch the wheel speed sensors, see if they are bad. A wheel speed sensor is just a prox switch (magnet gets close to metal closes the circuit). Maybe the switch isn't opening fast enough at high speed? Even a slight delay would cause issues at high speed.

Third, I'm wondering if there isn't some kind of wheel hop happening. At those speeds there shouldn't be enough torque to cause issues like that, but maybe bumpy road???

The wheel speed sensors are probably Hall Effect sensors, so a bit more advanced than a switch and a magnet, but your point is still valid; you could have a bad sensor.

 

[onecrappie]

Why not just put it in sport mode, and call it a day? Even in sport mode, mine shifts like a grandma, still lugging the engine sometimes. And TCS is quite intrusive, even if in some cars, like yours, is a little bit more than others. So even in sport mode, I'm almost always driving with the paddles. If you want to make aggressive passes, it absolutely should be in sport mode. The difference in fuel consumption with other modes is reportedly minimal when driving at the same pace. And if fuel consumption was your absolute priority, maybe a Prius would have been a better purchase. Or the more fuel efficient 2.0T SP I ended up buying (after returning a defective 3.3T SP). Anyway, if I was having that issue in sport mode, maybe I'd try to find a solution. But if sport mode solves it, there's no problem in my book, since Hyundai is not going to change the TC programming in the 'easy' modes when sport does what you want.

Sport mode doesn't effect the TC issue I'm having. It could be in any mode and it still happens.

 

[onecrappie]

Fixed it! Yeah it was the tires. The collision avoidance alarm goes off sooner now too. I'm guessing bigger tires are fine as long as they maintain the correct ratio with the rear tires.Thanks nameneeded and others

I guess that one extra inch DOES make a difference!

 

[Husky]

For sure. Glad it's fixed. You can have different widths, but not diameters with AWD.