What’s the move to fix the brake pad issue?

[Slick7]

Good evening, I have a 2022 G70 3.3t Prestige with 32,160 miles on her. Had issues with the shuttering rotors. Had the rotors turned at Brakemaster 5k miles ago.

Shutter is back. This is my daily driver, I drive hard and high speed. Tremendous feedback when braking at 90-100mph. I live in the southwest where posted speed limit is 75mph so speeds on the interstate and open road are often 95-100mph.

Would someone please be kind enough to share their choice for the permanent fix? Do I need to change pads and rotors or just pads and if so what rotors and or pads do you recommend?

Thank you.

 

[blnewto]

I went with Dynamic Friction 5000 series low-metallic pads for my Brembos
Front

Amazon.com

Rear

Amazon.com

They have them at rockauto.com too for $46 for the front and $43 for the rear
These have performed well w/ no brake judder, have improved bite over oem pads but dust a bit more, great tradeoff IMO, just need to clean up your rotors prior to install.

 

[Slick7]

I went with Dynamic Friction 5000 series low-metallic pads for my Brembos
Front

Amazon.com

Rear

Amazon.com

They have them at rockauto.com too for $46 for the front and $43 for the rear
These have performed well w/ no brake judder, have improved bite over oem pads but dust a bit more, great tradeoff IMO, just need to clean up your rotors prior to install.

Thank you for your response and recommendations! I need to get this fixed. I also replaced the tires with the same original Michelins. Having the high speed vibration there too. Going to go back to Discount Tire this week for a rebalance. Thanks again.

 

[Husky]

Good evening, I have a 2022 G70 3.3t Prestige with 32,160 miles on her. Had issues with the shuttering rotors. Had the rotors turned at Brakemaster 5k miles ago.

Shutter is back. This is my daily driver, I drive hard and high speed. Tremendous feedback when braking at 90-100mph. I live in the southwest where posted speed limit is 75mph so speeds on the interstate and open road are often 95-100mph.

Would someone please be kind enough to share their choice for the permanent fix? Do I need to change pads and rotors or just pads and if so what rotors and or pads do you recommend?

Thank you.

This one's been beaten to death. Search the threads on brakes and brake pads.
The problem is the crappy factory pads. There are about half a dozen good alternatives that are up to the task. Get used to brake dust; it's the price you pay.

 

[Slick7]

This one's been beaten to death. Search the threads on brakes and brake pads.
The problem is the crappy factory pads. There are about half a dozen good alternatives that are up to the task. Get used to brake dust; it's the price you pay.

I’ve read quite a few threads and definitely agree this is old news. Thank you for your response and honest opinion. Are there any special tools needed to change the pads myself?

 

[Slick7]

I went with Dynamic Friction 5000 series low-metallic pads for my Brembos
Front

Amazon.com

Rear

Amazon.com

They have them at rockauto.com too for $46 for the front and $43 for the rear
These have performed well w/ no brake judder, have improved bite over oem pads but dust a bit more, great tradeoff IMO, just need to clean up your rotors prior to install.

Can i clean the rotors myself or do i need to have them done again?

 

[Husky]

I’ve read quite a few threads and definitely agree this is old news. Thank you for your response and honest opinion. Are there any special tools needed to change the pads myself?

No

 

[Husky]

Can i clean the rotors myself or do i need to have them done again?

Some people have sanded them, but I think most have had luck cleaning the deposits off with some repeated hard stops once you get good pads. Others have replaced the rotors, but since they're not the problem, this is a waste unless they've already been turned too many times.

 

[Volfy]

Can i clean the rotors myself or do i need to have them done again?

Ideally, when you change brake pads, the rotors need to be turned so they are as "square" as possible for best contact with the brand new pads. That is the whole purpose of turning rotors. If yours were done 5k miles ago, depending on how you drive, you might be able to get away with not turning the rotors.

Resurfacing rotors is a pointless exercise with OEM pads, the deposits will just happen again... and again.

With a good set of brake pads, any deposit left on the rotors would be swept clean in one drive. Same thing happens when rust form on the rotor surface after the car sits idle for a while.

 

[blnewto]

Can i clean the rotors myself or do i need to have them done again?

You can wet some 3m green scrub pads w/ brake cleaner and scrub them as best you can, really depends if you have a lot of baked in deposits though. Like @Husky and @Volfy said, the remaining deposits will be cleaned up w/ a new set of pads, I'd just try to get them cleaned up as best you can so you can bed your new pads w/ a reasonably clean surface.

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[Slick7]

You can wet some 3m green scrub pads w/ brake cleaner and scrub them as best you can, really depends if you have a lot of baked in deposits though. Like @Husky and @Volfy said, the remaining deposits will be cleaned up w/ a new set of pads, I'd just try to get them cleaned up as best you can so you can bed your new pads w/ a reasonably clean surface.

That’s great advice. I will scrub the rotors and hopefully the new pads will clean off the rest. Appreciate the guidance!

 

[Slick7]

No

Okay great, I’m gonna order the pads and tackle this weekend.

 

[steveinarizona]

I also replaced the tires with the same original Michelins.

Did you already do this? I believe the OEM tires for your vehicle are the Michelin Primacy Tour All Season tires. If I am wrong about the OEM tires, stop reading my post. But if you do...I have the Primacy Tour All Season on my GV60 Performance and I am going to get rid of them. They are excellent tires for what they are designed for but performance is not one of them. I am planning, sometime in the next few months, to replace them with either the Michelin Pilot Sport 4S or, if I chicken out on going with a summer tire, the Michelin Pilot Sport All Season.

Either way...the Pilot Sport is a way better choice than the OEM Primacy tires for your kind of driving. The tradeoff for a performance tire is much shorter range...you will be replacing them more often.

 

[Slick7]

Did you already do this? I believe the OEM tires for your vehicle are the Michelin Primacy Tour All Season tires. If I am wrong about the OEM tires, stop reading my post. But if you do...I have the Primacy Tour All Season on my GV60 Performance and I am going to get rid of them. They are excellent tires for what they are designed for but performance is not one of them. I am planning, sometime in the next few months, to replace them with either the Michelin Pilot Sport 4S or, if I chicken out on going with a summer tire, the Michelin Pilot Sport All Season.

Either way...the Pilot Sport is a way better choice than the OEM Primacy tires for your kind of driving. The tradeoff for a performance tire is much shorter range...you will be replacing them more often.

Hey Steve, so I believe I did have the OEM tires on board and then I did in fact replace them with the Michelin Pilot Sport All Seasons. I took the car to Discount today and asked for a rebalance. They said the passenger front needed some balancing. After that I was on the interstate for a few miles and was doing 75 ish. On Friday I’ll be on the road for a few hours and will definitely be going much faster. I’ll let you know how it goes. Thanks for the tip!

 

[blnewto]

@Slick7 here's a good youtube on the Brembo pad change

 

[Slick7]

@Slick7 here's a good youtube on the Brembo pad change

This video is very helpful. I ordered the pads you suggested and they’ll be in next week. Looking forward to changing the old ones out. Thank you.

 

[Husky]

Unless you're replacing the rotors or turning them, I'd be careful about using a screwdriver or pry bar against the rotor to push the pistons back in. If you push too hard, it's not that hard to leave a small divot in the rotor that you'll feel when braking.
Also, if you're not taking off the rotor, it's very quick and easy (with these fixed position calipers) to just pull the pads out the top and replace them - as shown towards the end of that video.
You may want to put a little brake grease on the back of the pads where the pistons contact it (or on the face of the pistons), and on the long pins that slide in through the top of the pads - just be careful not to get any on the pads or rotor. Many pad manufacturers will include this with the pads.

 

[blnewto]

Unless you're replacing the rotors or turning them, I'd be careful about using a screwdriver or pry bar against the rotor to push the pistons back in. If you push too hard, it's not that hard to leave a small divot in the rotor that you'll feel when braking.
Also, if you're not taking off the rotor, it's very quick and easy (with these fixed position calipers) to just pull the pads out the top and replace them - as shown towards the end of that video.
You may want to put a little brake grease on the back of the pads where the pistons contact it (or on the face of the pistons), and on the long pins that slide in through the top of the pads - just be careful not to get any on the pads or rotor. Many pad manufacturers will include this with the pads.

Yeah, there's a few things I would do, like torque the fasteners, I know he goes by feel but I still like a consistent torque down, and adding grease to the pad backs. I also use copper anti-sieze on the rotor positioning screws, wheel lugs, and the hub to rotor contact area~keeps it so much better over time.

 

[Husky]

Yeah, that guy probably has a lot of experience with his gun and it's settings, but using a gun kind of eliminates any feel.

 

[Slick7]

Unless you're replacing the rotors or turning them, I'd be careful about using a screwdriver or pry bar against the rotor to push the pistons back in. If you push too hard, it's not that hard to leave a small divot in the rotor that you'll feel when braking.
Also, if you're not taking off the rotor, it's very quick and easy (with these fixed position calipers) to just pull the pads out the top and replace them - as shown towards the end of that video.
You may want to put a little brake grease on the back of the pads where the pistons contact it (or on the face of the pistons), and on the long pins that slide in through the top of the pads - just be careful not to get any on the pads or rotor. Many pad manufacturers will include this with the pads.

I wasn’t planning to take the rotors off. Just clean them up a little. Yeah I was thinking about that guy scratching the rotor. I’ll now leave the rotors on and pull the pins to change the pads.