- Genesis Model Type
- 2G Genesis Sedan (2015-2016)
I agree with you if you are selling the car at 100k miles or soon after, however 10k mile oil changes will most likely cause the plastic timing chain guides to wear down and crack which will require an replacement near 150k miles. BMW had problems for a while(up to 2013 V8 engines) with their timing chain guides due to lengthy oil change intervals. The same for Audi, Land Rover, Jaguar, etc. Just look it up.Never seen the point of changing the oil at less than the recommended intervals unless you are keeping the car till it falls apart, I'll be selling the car long before any engine problems manifest themselves, an oil change every year, or 10k miles is fine.
We only have emission testing in Georgia. Therefore, you can drive any car you want no matter the age if it can pass an emission test. Even though I like to own late model cars; I have noticed that it is cheaper to own a older car that is paid off if it is in good mechanical condition. Hence, why I am taking good care of the engine and transmission in my 2015 Genesis before it gets to 100k miles. Whats cheaper? Paying $500 or more a month plus auto insurance or just paying auto insurance and zero car payments?Interesting reply, and I can see the logic.
Not sure what legislation you have in Georgia, but an annual road-worthiness test is compulsory in the UK for cars of 3 years and older.
Even taking into account the average annual mileage is probably higher in the US than the UK even if a car could reach 200k miles with original trans and engine, stringent exhaust emission tests, braking tests, body rot due to our UK weather and component wear makes keeping a daily used commuting car longer than 10 years prohibitive financially, it's not worth saving the engine from wear if the cost of passing the annual test gets more expensive year on year.
I feel you. I have been trying to stop buying new and semi-new cars for a while now. New cars has been my most unwise purchases since I see how much the cars I buy new depreciate in only three years.Smart thing to do. I'm on my third "last car" and yes, I'm taking care of it just in case it is. Since I retired the miles have gone way down so that is in my favor.
Buying used is generally a better fiscal decision, but i wanted what I wanted and have been buying new and taking the depreciation hits. The best value is to buy new, get what you want, drive it for as long as it runs and take the scrap value when it finally dies. I have done that with a couple of cars.
You should be able to get the 200k and with a few bigger repairs along the way, 500k in not impossible.
I understand. I did the same type of oil change to my last engine that I purchased new. I changed my 2014 Optima SXL 2.0T oil at 2k miles just after the break-in to remove the factory filled oil. I babied that engine even though I sold it three years later to buy a larger 2014 buick Lacrosse Premium that was priced to move.break in change, some do it at 600 (as many hyundai manuals state the break in period is), I just happened to do it at 1k
How do you like the Weathertech mats? Good fit and feel?Recently acquired (new to me CPO) 2015 3.8 AWD Ultimate, Black w/Black int.
Wishlist: convert center rad grill to G80 Sport mesh style, Sport quad exhaust tips, paint calipers
- debadged, added new '17 wing emblems only
- WeatherTech floor mats, cargo liner
- Diamond Gloss polish/detail
Thanks for the responses. You guys are awesome!!!i didnt go underr in that particular case, you can slip a little tin foil pn under the filter and get it out from the top, but it's all just not worth it. I'm not THAT busy, so my last two have been at a local shop and I use their 4 post to just do it normally, costs less than 20 bux for the garage time and ive gotten pretty quick at it. More than anything else it is just tedious, but it really is good to get under the car periodically and do a visual check on things. Having that pump is still quite useful, excellent buy imo