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Before and after of my professional paint correction (PICS)

scottdk

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My detailer has put a thread together on autopia.org of my car before and after including steps and products used for the correction. LOOKS AMAZING!!! Here are a few preview pics Click the link for the thread.

http://www.autopia.org/forum/click-...sedan-major-paint-correction.html#post1502896


bad.jpg



gloss.jpg



http://www.autopia.org/forum/click-...sedan-major-paint-correction.html#post1502896


Process:

Wash - Foamed with OPC/CGCW followed by 2BM wash and CGCW
Wheels - P21S Gel and various brushes
Tires - OPC, dressed with Hyper Dressing 3:1
Clay - Blackfire Clay and M34 as lube
Initial Correction Step - M105 on the GG6 with Surbuf pads
Intermediate polishing step - D300/MF on the GG6
Finishing Step - 106fa via rotary and Blue LC pads
Exhaust tips - Optimum Metal Polish
Protection - Blackfire Wet Diamond
 
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That looks awesome...

Congrats!
 
Wow! I'm a believer...a lot can be done to correct a damaged finish. It would have never occurred to me that it was possible
 
I am surprise that it has that much damage to the paint already. Do you normally wash it yourself?
 
I am surprise that it has that much damage to the paint already. Do you normally wash it yourself?

Washed it myself, but not the 1st winter (the only winter I drove it) when I bought it. Plus the dealer installed swirls were already there when I bought it too. I will never use a drive though car wash again, except on the wifes car and my Sonata where the Opti-coat 2.0 has been installed (permanant coating).

I've also changed my wash methods and use multiple buckets and have been advised NOT to use wash media from local stores like Target. I guess their microfiber towels etc. are still too abrasive and will scratch. I have ordered a bunch of stuff through my detailer because of this.
 
Wow! Gorgeous. Don't know whether it's art or science.
That settles it! I'm going to have to visit Rasky. I'm 10 minutes from Shakopee.
 
Wow! Gorgeous. Don't know whether it's art or science.
That settles it! I'm going to have to visit Rasky. I'm 10 minutes from Shakopee.

He's got my new Optima right now actually. Dropped it off yesterday. Having him apply the Opti-coat 2.0 permanant coating. Than I don't have to baby this car like the Genesis will be. You can run though the auto washes with the coating and it will not mar the finish, and it beads water just like a wax, but it's permanant.
 
He's got my new Optima right now actually. Dropped it off yesterday. Having him apply the Opti-coat 2.0 permanant coating. Than I don't have to baby this car like the Genesis will be. You can run though the auto washes with the coating and it will not mar the finish, and it beads water just like a wax, but it's permanant.


Just to clarify on that one, Scott....you can run it through touch-less washes and the harsh pre-rinse chemicals as well as other strong cleaners and chemicals will have zero effect on the coatings durability. However, auto washes with brushes or mops can and will still instill scratches and swirls, but they will likely be less severe then if you didn't have the coating. Ideally you still want to hand wash the car, but in the MN winters that is not always an option. I run mine through the touch-less and then do an ONR wash at home. ;)

I use Opti-Guard BTW. Same basic stuff as the 2.0, but it has far less solvents then the 2.0 which allows it to cure much faster and it also leaves behind a thicker layer of product, but the end result is still the same. :)


Rasky
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Just to clarify on that one, Scott....you can run it through touch-less washes and the harsh pre-rinse chemicals as well as other strong cleaners and chemicals will have zero effect on the coatings durability. However, auto washes with brushes or mops can and will still instill scratches and swirls, but they will likely be less severe then if you didn't have the coating. Ideally you still want to hand wash the car, but in the MN winters that is not always an option. I run mine through the touch-less and then do an ONR wash at home. ;)

I use Opti-Guard BTW. Same basic stuff as the 2.0, but it has far less solvents then the 2.0 which allows it to cure much faster and it also leaves behind a thicker layer of product, but the end result is still the same. :)


Rasky

Thanks for clarifying, and I will pass the info to the wifey:) Very glad to know ONLY the touch-less washes, although she only uses Kwik Trip which is touchless. This product is truly amazing!
 
Scott, just out of curiosity, what did the paint correction and detailing cost?
 
Scott, just out of curiosity, what did the paint correction and detailing cost?

Price varies by region, and typically areas such as Florida you will pay almost double compared to areas in the West or North (exclude Cali).

Mine was way underbid, so I paid $500 and the detailer had a ton of hours into this project. I want to say about 22 hours if I remember correctly.

The price of detail really depends on how much correction you desire. The more correction = the more time and more $.

I would say for most people in my region the spending $500-$600 would surpass their expections.
 
Getting my car back today from my detailer -

I had the Opti Coat put on my car, so I'm excited to see the results:)

Cell phone pic from detailer last night....

Opticoat_zps91eaee38.jpg
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Looking forward to seeing pics, Scott! :)

Just looked at the link above; man you had some paint issues! You detailer did a phenomenal job! :)
 
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Very Nice...

Is opti coat about the same @ $500 ?
 
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Very Nice...

Is opti coat about the same @ $500 ?

Depends if your paint needs a correction or not before having the coat applied... it is highly recommended to do a paint correction (as you're basically putting a nano hydrophobic shield on your paint that can last 2-3 yrs - claim is longer, all depending on weather exposure - but I'd be getting it redone after about that time period myself).

Same goes for Cquartz, EXO, and 22ple ..all competitors in the '100-110 degree water contact angle rating' hydrophobic realm . Personally, I'd go w/ OptiCoat as I love my Optimum products through and through and use Opti-Seal (less permanent consumer protection product they offer) already. AG forums have plenty on the differences between all the products..EXO seems to leave a bit more shine, but it's pricy product and really requires two diff products for the best output. Opti-Coat seems to just be great in all the measurement categories or endurance and results.
 
Depends if your paint needs a correction or not before having the coat applied... it is highly recommended to do a paint correction (as you're basically putting a nano hydrophobic shield on your paint that can last 2-3 yrs - claim is longer, all depending on weather exposure - but I'd be getting it redone after about that time period myself).

Same goes for Cquartz, EXO, and 22ple ..all competitors in the '100-110 degree water contact angle rating' hydrophobic realm . Personally, I'd go w/ OptiCoat as I love my Optimum products through and through and use Opti-Seal (less permanent consumer protection product they offer) already. AG forums have plenty on the differences between all the products..EXO seems to leave a bit more shine, but it's pricy product and really requires two diff products for the best output. Opti-Coat seems to just be great in all the measurement categories or endurance and results.

+1 ^

Well said. This was my 3rd car I have brought in for detail, plus 2nd time on the Genesis, so I was given a discount. I should have done the Opti Coat last year, but at that time I didn't really know much about it.

I will throw up a video on here once I give my car the 1st wash. NOTE, that a link to a video of the Opti Coat is in my signature below. BTW, DAMN the car looks amazing right now I can't believe it.

On a side note the Hyundai techs that did my coolant flush, brake TSB, and oil change, a few weeks ago marred the shit out of my passenger fender. This was correctly by my detailer, so everything turned out well. I should have known better then to give a mechanic a dirty car:)
 
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