'12 CPO non RSpec 5.0 - advice?

[P4D]

It is my first post after spending several weeks lurking and reading the content here. I appreciate all the contributions already made, as there is a ton of great advice here. I'm hoping you all can help me out on a purchase I'm about to make. I am looking at a 2012 certified 5.0 without R-Spec. It has 30k miles with 16 months of service, and runs and looks great. It is not plated, so I believe it was a dealership car. I'm hoping to learn what, aside from typical used car considerations, I should be looking at or for before I make the purchase. Thanks in advance!

 

[Mark_888]

It is my first post after spending several weeks lurking and reading the content here. I appreciate all the contributions already made, as there is a ton of great advice here. I'm hoping you all can help me out on a purchase I'm about to make. I am looking at a 2012 certified 5.0 without R-Spec. It has 30k miles with 16 months of service, and runs and looks great. It is not plated, so I believe it was a dealership car. I'm hoping to learn what, aside from typical used car considerations, I should be looking at or for before I make the purchase. Thanks in advance!

I would not assume it was a dealership car. Have a CarFax done (or demand that the dealer have it done and show you). In may cases, they have already done a CarFax if they took it in trade.

Only problem I know of that has been reported on some Tau 5.0 engines (mostly R-Specs) is excess oil consumption, but you would probably have to rack up 500-1000 test drive miles to notice it.

 

[P4D]

I forgot to ask a question, because I read quite a few threads and got confused...Is it worthwhile to buy a Platinum warranty on top of the CPO warranty or see if they will swap Platinum instead of CPO?

 

[wd40]

It is my first post after spending several weeks lurking and reading the content here. I appreciate all the contributions already made, as there is a ton of great advice here. I'm hoping you all can help me out on a purchase I'm about to make. I am looking at a 2012 certified 5.0 without R-Spec. It has 30k miles with 16 months of service, and runs and looks great. It is not plated, so I believe it was a dealership car. I'm hoping to learn what, aside from typical used car considerations, I should be looking at or for before I make the purchase. Thanks in advance!

I've never been a big fan of extended warranties, but I suppose you could shop around and add it if you purchase the vehicle. Carfax (IMO) is not that good. Do you know any insurance investigators in your area? There is a data base called ISO (Insurance Service Organizations), an all claims database that has vehicle shipping information and covers the vast majority of claims including minor claims like glass replacement. They also have a flood database. Also try http://www.vehiclehistory.gov/nmvtis_consumers.html. Good luck.

 

[Mark_888]

I forgot to ask a question, because I read quite a few threads and got confused...Is it worthwhile to buy a Platinum warranty on top of the CPO warranty or see if they will swap Platinum instead of CPO?

The main consideration for the Genesis is the audio/video/nav system, which only has a 3 yr / 36K mile warranty. Since you have the Tech Package (which is standard on the V8) then the extended warranty is recommended because it can be extremely expensive to fix the Tech Package audio/video/nav problems (they only swap out units, they don't fix them), and there have been an above average number of reported problems. So bottom line is that I would ask them to swap out the warranties, and even pay more for the Platinum. They usually ask outrageous prices for the Platinum extended warranty, but you should be able to get one for about $1200-$1300 with some negotiation. Not sure if you can swap out the CPO, but worth a try.

 

[Mark_888]

I've never been a big fan of extended warranties, but I suppose you could shop around and add it if you purchase the vehicle. Carfax (IMO) is not that good. Do you know any insurance investigators in your area? There is a data base called ISO (Insurance Service Organizations), an all claims database that has vehicle shipping information and covers the vast majority of claims including minor claims like glass replacement. They also have a flood database. Also try http://www.vehiclehistory.gov/nmvtis_consumers.html. Good luck.

I agree that CarFax does not have a record of all accidents, but I assume they know whether the car has been titled before (but I don't really know for sure).

 

[Vince2]

P4D you are "ahead of the curve" by checking with the forum before buying. I didn't read this forum until after buying my car...never again. I would buy the warranty and for exactly the reasons already given by Mark888. I'm afraid of having an electrical issue without a warranty. No one fixes electronics. They are replaced and the replacement costs are frightening. I paid about 1200 for my 10yr/100k warranty. I wasn't smart just lucky. I bought other policies that are just pure junk (um dealer profit)...too ashamed to name them.

 

[P4D]

I did some digging on the HPP website and found they have a CPO Wrap in gold and platinum. It appears the coverage is the same as the extended good and platinum, so I am going to try and sort out the cost differences. Has anyone had any experience with the CPO Wrap?

 

[Rey]

Suggest you obtain a full copy of the warranty, take it home and read it completely. Most of these aftermarket warranties are written by insurance companies who treat them like insurance policies. You will find in the small print some very important exclusions, which just coincidentally describe potential problem areas......

 

[shagnat]

That's a good many miles for a 1 y/o car. I'd be concerned it was a rental and NEVER buy a rental car. Most folks beat on 'em like a rented mule!!

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[P4D]

It was registered as a personal vehicle, and maintained on schedule at the same dealership where it was sold and is being resold. I was worried about it being a rental too, but it doesn't appear so based on what I can see. I asked for a copy of the CPO, the CPO Platiunum, and the alternative Platinum warranties. I'll share if they are provided.

 

[P4D]

So, any other thoughts or things I should consider before I go pick this car up?

 

[GenesisCaptain]

So, any other thoughts or things I should consider before I go pick this car up?

Sounds like a good one. Assuming that the price fairly represents the mileage, I would go for it.

 

[DRS]

I live my non R-Spec 5.0. Not too many made. A real sleeper. Has all the bits of a R-Spec except for the wheels and trim. I prefer the 18" wheels as tires are much lower cost to replace. And if you are not hard on all the time, enjoy the good handling (.9 of a R-Spec).

I agree with the consensus to get a full warranty extension. IF oil consumption pops up, from what I see around here, with pressure and not taking a dealer no for an answer, Hyundai replaces the engines.

 

[DRS]

What is the price?

 

[Amrath]

All great advice. It is a given that the map for the Nav unit is badly out of date. Negotiate having the dealer update it before you take delivery (in case they brick it while doing the update).

 

[P4D]

Price is $31k plus ttl. California, so about $34k all in but before the extended warranty. I've been shopping for a while, and I think the price is good. Is it?

 

[WowCool]

Stand Back, You are going to overpay by at least $3000 + Interest.
$31000 All In..That includes Taxes/Titles & Top Additional Warranty.
The dealer knows you are hooked..
A big car with excessive miles ==== Beware..

Tell the Dealer $31000 All In..Give him your number and walk away...............

 

[P4D]

Really, price is over by that much? There are two other non R-Spec 5.0 around here. One has 10k miles ans is at $35k from an independent lot. The other is at a dealer and that dealer won't move off of $38k, plus ttl (only has 5k miles). Help me understand how to value these cars the right way, please.

 

[WowCool]

The dealers always ask Top Dollar, they know the cars are sought after, they also read the forums. I have bought so many cars, they also make money via the finance company.
No dealer will discuss lowering the price until (A) he sees you "The Deal" ready to walk away (B) just asking a dealer for a lower price forget it..
Go in with a friend and a calculator, work out your running costs, insurance, fuel & servicing etc.. How much are your payments going to be?
Remember in town you could get as little as 12mpg.. How are the tires/brakes with that high mileage? Have all the recalls been done?
Ask the dealer for an overnight/extended test drive..
Put 6 gallons in and go drive with a salesman..see how the car performs, the mpg it returns and if everything works OK.. Run it thro' a car wash to check if it's water tight..However much you want the car, be prepared to nitpick,
shrug your shoulders and walk away. There is ALWAYS another car out there..As a dealer, it was accepted that any used vehicle would cost anywhere from $200-500 to get the vehicle ready for resale.. And they do the bare minimum. After that it's your baby...Take Care..