Cold startup sputter/shutter

[blubyu]

Does anyone else have this type issue? Its not major but I don't feel like its normal. My car is an 2012 3.8l.

If I got into reverse or forward right after a cold start the car will also faintly buck as well. Not sure if its some GDI symptoms or not, I didn't really find anything by searching.

Thanks!

 

[wchettel]

Does anyone else have this type issue? Its not major but I don't feel like its normal. My car is an 2012 3.8l.

If I got into reverse or forward right after a cold start the car will also faintly buck as well. Not sure if its some GDI symptoms or not, I didn't really find anything by searching.

Thanks!

At what air temp does this "cold start" problem occur? I don't have this problem on my Genesis.

 

[Cut-Throat]

Does anyone else have this type issue? Its not major but I don't feel like its normal. My car is an 2012 3.8l.

If I got into reverse or forward right after a cold start the car will also faintly buck as well. Not sure if its some GDI symptoms or not, I didn't really find anything by searching.

Thanks!

Does it do this every time?

Or only after a previous start up, where you did not warm up the car completely. (e.g. just backing it out of the garage and shutting it off, without a complete warm up).

 

[drewbie]

Saw this in the candian winter with my 2009 4.6
GDI + cold weather was the cause.

Nothing to be alarmed by at all.

 

[Epiphany]

Saw this in the candian winter with my 2009 4.6
GDI + cold weather was the cause.

Nothing to be alarmed by at all.

The 4.6 is MPI isn't it? And there are some on the forum including myself with weird noises at startup on these cars. Hyundai says it's normal even though it sounds terrible.

 

[katman0]

I have not experienced this at all even over the winter. In cold weather , the engine is a bit loud on first start up, but operation is smooth. At least on my car.

 

[Mark_888]

Does it do this every time?

Or only after a previous start up, where you did not warm up the car completely. (e.g. just backing it out of the garage and shutting it off, without a complete warm up).

This was a common problem with early versions of the 4.6 V8, but have never heard it happening on the 3.8 V6.

 

[Mark_888]

Does anyone else have this type issue? Its not major but I don't feel like its normal. My car is an 2012 3.8l.

If I got into reverse or forward right after a cold start the car will also faintly buck as well. Not sure if its some GDI symptoms or not, I didn't really find anything by searching.

Thanks!

One possible problem is using the wrong oil filter and the engine is oil starved at startup. Using the wrong oil filter happens quite a bit, even at dealers. Many dealers are using the oil filter meant for the V8 on the V6. The V6 should use the OEM filter with hard plastic black end caps and green internal O-rings (in addition to external O-rings). The one with softer white end caps is for the V8 and is not the right filter for the V6.

Also, I would strongly recommend 0W-30 or 5W-30 synthetic oil for you engine, especially since you have been experiencing some problems at start up. Mobil 1 0W-30 Advanced Fuel Economy would be an excellent choice.

 

[shaggydee]

"The V6 should use the OEM filter with hard plastic black end caps and green internal O-rings (in addition to external O-rings). The one with softer white end caps is for the V8 and is not the right filter for the V6."

I've scoured the manuals, both maintenance and owner's, and I'm not able to find the part number for the oil filter V6. Is there a mention of the part number in the manual(s) that I overlooked?

 

[Mark_888]

I've scoured the manuals, both maintenance and owner's, and I'm not able to find the part number for the oil filter V6. Is there a mention of the part number in the manual(s) that I overlooked?

Owner's manual does not have part numbers. Here is a quote from another forum discussing the problem of two different filters for the Hyundai 3.8 V6. The part numbers are listed, but there is still confusion about which is the correct filter:

I just had an interesting conversation at my local Hyundai Dealership Parts Dept. I decided to start doing my own oil changes and went to get an oil filter cartridge at the local dealership.

I went in to buy an oil filter cartridge (26320-3C30A) and the guy says which one. I said for the 3.8 and he said, yes … but there are two different oil filter cartridges for the 3.8. He said that Hyundai had told them (Parts Dept.) that they had two different suppliers for the 3.8 cartridge and there was no way to tell which one was for any specific 3.8 vehicle.

That I had to take it out and see which one I needed. So they are telling all the owners that the first time you come in, we have to sell you both and then you bring back the one you don’t use for a refund. Both cartridge boxes are labeled Genuine Hyundai Parts.

The other cartridge is a 26320-3C250, which has hard black plastic end piece on both ends; that is raised on both ends by a ¼ inch lip with an one (1) inch opening.

As opposed to the 26320-3C30A, which is flat on both ends and has a ¾ inch opening. The design does not look like they would be interchangeable. If they are interchangeable, does anyone know which one is a better fit or better performing … other than one costing $10.89 & the other $6.85 does it matter?

If the filter is on the top of the engine (2009-2011), the $6.85 filter with hard plastic black end caps should be used (26320-3C250). For 2012+ models with filter on bottom of engine, some Hyundai websites say to use the 26320-3C250 and some say to use 26320-3C30A (which has soft white end caps and costs $10.89).

______________________________

Help support this site so it can continue supporting you!

 

[shaggydee]

"If the filter is on the top of the engine (2009-2011), the $6.85 filter with hard plastic black end caps should be used (26320-3C250). For 2012+ models with filter on bottom of engine, some Hyundai websites say to use the 26320-3C250 and some say to use 26320-3C30A (which has soft white end caps and costs $10.89)."

That clears that up....LOL..........just kidding. It would appear then, that any confusion starts with the 2012 while prior years oil filter p/n's are cut and dry...............thanks for the info.

 

[oklawall]

My 2014 5.0 will do this when it is below 50 deg and it has set for several hours (over night or 9 hours at work) will sputter until the engine temp get up to normal, the engine will even act like it is missing when under a load during this time. Hyundai said it was normal

 

[blubyu]

Does it do this every time?

Or only after a previous start up, where you did not warm up the car completely. (e.g. just backing it out of the garage and shutting it off, without a complete warm up).

The car resides in an unheated detached garage but it does it at every start up no matter the temp once the car sits overnight. Right now its in the mid 50's in the mornings but probably 70+ in the garage so its not the cold air causing it. I never run any of my vehicles for short bursts like that.

One possible problem is using the wrong oil filter and the engine is oil starved at startup. Using the wrong oil filter happens quite a bit, even at dealers. Many dealers are using the oil filter meant for the V8 on the V6. The V6 should use the OEM filter with hard plastic black end caps and green internal O-rings (in addition to external O-rings). The one with softer white end caps is for the V8 and is not the right filter for the V6.

Also, I would strongly recommend 0W-30 or 5W-30 synthetic oil for you engine, especially since you have been experiencing some problems at start up. Mobil 1 0W-30 Advanced Fuel Economy would be an excellent choice.

I use synthetic in all of my vehicles, most of the time I use Mobil 1 0w-40 euro blend as its a true synthetic and always tests great. I know its not recommended but I have also used Penz Platinum 5w-30 in my previous Lexus is350.

I have only had this car a short time and haven't put 500 miles on it yet and the dealer I bought it from out of state did the oil change before shipping the car. The oil is definitely fresh as I checked it upon taking delivery.

I will look into the filter when I get home and can inspect to see which one is installed.

 

[landtuna]

Not sure my symptoms fit the ones being discussed on this thread but I will toss it out there and see if perhaps there is some commonality.

Yesterday afternoon hopped in the Genny ('12 R-spec) for a drive up the freeway to son's hockey game. Ambient temp was in the high 70's/low 80's. Car had been sitting for about a day and a half after having been moved from garage to street and back while cleaning out the garage.

When the car first starts it has been normal for the initial idle to set at about 1200 RPM for 20-ish seconds or so then it drops down to about 800 (car in neutral). I wait until the RPM's drop before shifting into gear.

Yesterday the RPM's immediately went to 700-800, felt rough and the engine lamp blinked on and off. I gave it a few seconds to see if it would change but it didn't so I backed out and continued down the street.

The car acted as if it wasn't getting fuel. It bucked slightly from time to time and when I approached the stop sign on my street it felt like the engine died (it didn't but everything got real quiet).

After the stop sign things seemed normal. I stopped at my cousin's house and we had dinner then back in the car and up the freeway. No dash lights or other unusual conditions until one solitary buck at about 70 MPH halfway there - and that was the end of it. Engine temp, MPG indications are normal. No idiot lights or messages.

Gas tank is half full so no new gas. Very dry here in the desert so I don't suspect water in gas either. In 18 months with this car this is the only time anything like this has happened.

Thoughts?

 

[Alwaysforward]

Do you burn regular unleaded or super? It sounds like possible bad gas.

 

[blubyu]

Do you burn regular unleaded or super? It sounds like possible bad gas.

I run 93 octane in all my vehicles. $5-6 extra piece of mind is well worth it to me.

 

[Mark_888]

I use synthetic in all of my vehicles, most of the time I use Mobil 1 0w-40 euro blend as its a true synthetic and always tests great. I know its not recommended but I have also used Penz Platinum 5w-30 in my previous Lexus is350.

I would strongly recommend against a European Formula Oil in the Genesis (or any Japanese car, and most American cars unless they have engine technology from Germany). There is a common misperception that the only difference between European Formula Oil and other synthetic oil sold in the USA is that the European Formula Oil is made from 100% group IV PAO base stocks, and that most USA synthetic formulas are Group III Hydrocracked mineral oil (or a blend of Group III and Group IV PAO). But aside from the base stock differences, European Formula oils have some additives (or lack other additives) that make it not suitable for Hyundai engines and emission systems. European Formula oils do not meet API specs determined by Hyundai for their engines, and could void your warranty if there were any internal engine problems and Hyundai had the oil analyzed (or reviewed your oil change receipts).

I also think that a 0W-40 is probably too high of a viscosity for a Hyundai in most situations. Hyundai recommends 5W-20, so a 5W-30 or 0W-30 should be more than enough viscosity. The main exception would be if there was significant engine wear that has occurred, and needs to be remedied with something higher than 5W-30.

If for some reason you feel the need for 0W-40 in a Hyundai, Pennzoil now makes a 0W-40 that is not European Formula oil, called Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0W-40, although not sure how easy it is to get ahold of right now since it is new.

Oils like Mobil 1 EP and Mobil 1 0W-30 AFE have about 60% Group IV PAO base stock (the rest is Group III synthetics) that is better than the average synthetic sold in the USA and should far exceed the requirements of an oil for a 7500 mile oil change interval (as specified by the Hyundai warranty in best case situations).

 

[Mark_888]

I run 93 octane in all my vehicles. $5-6 extra piece of mind is well worth it to me.

I don't think it would hurt at all to use a mid-grade gas on the 3.8 engine, but 93 octane may be a little too high, not sure. The engine is designed to run on regular. The 4.6/5.0 Genesis engine is designed to run on regular or premium.

 

[Epiphany]

I run 93 octane in all my vehicles. $5-6 extra piece of mind is well worth it to me.

I wish that's all the difference it was here. Full tank would be $10-$13 difference between regular and premium.

 

[blubyu]

I don't think it would hurt at all to use a mid-grade gas on the 3.8 engine, but 93 octane may be a little too high, not sure. The engine is designed to run on regular. The 4.6/5.0 Genesis engine is designed to run on regular or premium.

There is no way pump 93 is too high of octane for any factory car especially not a Genesis. I will be making an appointment with the dealer soon to get the issues addressed.