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Please Read.....Dangerous 8-Speed Transmission

Did they flush the tranny cooler lines? I have seen this before where the tech will change the transmission, but fail to get the metal out from the failed transmission. They often will try to blow air through the transmission cooler on the radiator to get the metal out. But that often doesn't work and they actually need to change the transmission cooler and/or radiator because the old transmission dumped a bunch of fragments into the cooler. Then what happens is the new transmission goes in, they drive it and all is good. But the metal has now moved into the new transmission and throughout the entire system again. Then you get in and the metal plugs up the valve body and you end up with another failed transmission. This is a common occurrence I have seen before.

On the other point - This is NOT Hyundai's fault and there is no reason to question the 8 speed reliability. You bought a used car. The previous owner could have been a total goon and power braked, neutral dropped, and who knows what all happened to the poor thing before you got it. The fact that the dealer changed the transmission at their cost when they didn't have to do so, speaks volumes to the good for the dealer and Hyundai.

Some techs don't check to see what specific fluid is needed depending on year model of Genesis. I caught one that did not know about the 7 and 8 speed transmissions using different fluids. Nor did they know the transmission filter was built into the pan; they claimed it had no filter. To change the filter in the 2011 ZF 7 speed V8 the pan has to be replaced same as with some BMW, Jaguars etc.

There is no 7 speed in the Hyundai. It is a 6 speed.

On the "filter" in the pan. These are usually just screens. Normally you should not mess with it because taking the pan down, many techs will wipe it out with a rag and they introduce small thread/cloth fragments into the system that actually then cause transmission failure. This is why the best way to service a transmission is to use a machine to change the fluid through the lines and never open the pan up.
 
Yeah I have noticed some weirdness from my trans on my 12 spec.seems to hesitate and slip just a tad...then days go by and it doesn't.......this is exactly why I got the extended insurance.
 
Did they flush the tranny cooler lines? I have seen this before where the tech will change the transmission, but fail to get the metal out from the failed transmission. They often will try to blow air through the transmission cooler on the radiator to get the metal out. But that often doesn't work and they actually need to change the transmission cooler and/or radiator because the old transmission dumped a bunch of fragments into the cooler. Then what happens is the new transmission goes in, they drive it and all is good. But the metal has now moved into the new transmission and throughout the entire system again. Then you get in and the metal plugs up the valve body and you end up with another failed transmission. This is a common occurrence I have seen before.

On the other point - This is NOT Hyundai's fault and there is no reason to question the 8 speed reliability. You bought a used car. The previous owner could have been a total goon and power braked, neutral dropped, and who knows what all happened to the poor thing before you got it. The fact that the dealer changed the transmission at their cost when they didn't have to do so, speaks volumes to the good for the dealer and Hyundai.



There is no 7 speed in the Hyundai. It is a 6 speed.

On the "filter" in the pan. These are usually just screens. Normally you should not mess with it because taking the pan down, many techs will wipe it out with a rag and they introduce small thread/cloth fragments into the system that actually then cause transmission failure. This is why the best way to service a transmission is to use a machine to change the fluid through the lines and never open the pan up.

Correct on the 6 speed I was thinking of my Merc. The pan on the Genesis ZF transmission has a filter not a screen.
 
Yeah I have noticed some weirdness from my trans on my 12 spec.seems to hesitate and slip just a tad...then days go by and it doesn't.......this is exactly why I got the extended insurance.

Based upon many comments from owners that is normal (unless, of course, it is severe and then it isn't normal). My '12 R-spec also hesitates a fraction of a second when opening the throttle. It has always done that from new. Once it hooks up it does not slip or hesitate so I just figured it was the nature of the beast. I have plenty of warranty left so am not worried about it.
 
My 2014 does not hesitate or slip. If I am running 70 and floor it, the trans jumps down and it hauls ass right out to 110 or more if I keep in it. The car is a rocket and the transmission shifts tight and quick.

I have read that the calibration improved over the years..... But I don't know. The 2014 R-Spec is quick to shift and go.
 
...the transmission shifts tight and quick.
Definitely not characteristics of the 8 speed transmission. :)

I have no complains about the transmission itself. It is the programming that hinders the car during low speed maneuvers, as it loves to stay in 3rd when almost coming to a complete stop, and then if you want to gun it, it takes its sweet time downshifting to 1 to get moving.
 
👆👍 good point. Something to consider they did not sweat detail on fluid type.
 
Yeah maybe it is the programming....either way, not gonna even worry about it. The extended warrenty helps me sleep like a baby. I may never use it, and the dealership will come out a head or the trans drops one day and they can spend 10-15 grand or whatever.
 
Definitely not characteristics of the 8 speed transmission. :)

I have no complains about the transmission itself. It is the programming that hinders the car during low speed maneuvers, as it loves to stay in 3rd when almost coming to a complete stop, and then if you want to gun it, it takes its sweet time downshifting to 1 to get moving.

I completely agree on low speed. But on high speed at 70 to 80 if I floor it the trans is sharp. No hesitation at all.
 
Definitely not characteristics of the 8 speed transmission. :)

I have no complains about the transmission itself. It is the programming that hinders the car during low speed maneuvers, as it loves to stay in 3rd when almost coming to a complete stop, and then if you want to gun it, it takes its sweet time downshifting to 1 to get moving.

Mine used to do exactly that, and I always thought it was the programming also. After doing the air-box flapper door fix, I no longer think that. I think the transmission was so slow shifting into 1st at a rolling stop *because* the motor was taking so long to get the ponies up and running. Now that my motor gets up and goes promptly, the transmission follows suit and is just as prompt.
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The 8 speed from 2012-2014 them have gotten better with the programing. There is a different for the 3.8, 4.6, 5.0 and the 5.0R. Some people have issue with trans some don't. I finally got my Trans replaces after 10 trips to the dealers and 5-6 call to corporate about my trays slipping and slamming into gears, and power stalls. I strongly believe that Hyundai dose not really have great mechanic in their shops. I know that that the 3 dealers I went to. They are just young kids and if there is no code telling them what is wrong with the car. They said its working good. I asked for the data log and what was some of the PID info. They just looked at me like what… I ask them to install and data logger and set it up to recorded the data through the CAN network so they can see what I’m talking about. So I can drive the car and have it record r it when it happens they tell me we don’t have that or know what that is. I worked as a mechanic for years and I am more old school. I showed them vid proof of the Trans slipping with 5 different vid. They were like there no codes so we can’t do anything. The 8 speed has its flaws and a lot has to do with how it was made and the TCM and the Torque management system built into Delphi ECU that is limiting the power to the ground (Even with traction control off). It also has to do with traction control/tire pressure sensor that ECU will automatically limit off the power if it detects any loose tractions. The electronics on the car a way to sensitive and dangerous when you are trying to make turns or over take someone quickly. It kills the power to the wheels.
 
The 8 speed from 2012-2014 them have gotten better with the programing. There is a different for the 3.8, 4.6, 5.0 and the 5.0R. Some people have issue with trans some don't. I finally got my Trans replaces after 10 trips to the dealers and 5-6 call to corporate about my trays slipping and slamming into gears, and power stalls. I strongly believe that Hyundai dose not really have great mechanic in their shops. I know that that the 3 dealers I went to. They are just young kids and if there is no code telling them what is wrong with the car. They said its working good. I asked for the data log and what was some of the PID info. They just looked at me like what… I ask them to install and data logger and set it up to recorded the data through the CAN network so they can see what I’m talking about. So I can drive the car and have it record r it when it happens they tell me we don’t have that or know what that is. I worked as a mechanic for years and I am more old school. I showed them vid proof of the Trans slipping with 5 different vid. They were like there no codes so we can’t do anything. The 8 speed has its flaws and a lot has to do with how it was made and the TCM and the Torque management system built into Delphi ECU that is limiting the power to the ground (Even with traction control off). It also has to do with traction control/tire pressure sensor that ECU will automatically limit off the power if it detects any loose tractions. The electronics on the car a way to sensitive and dangerous when you are trying to make turns or over take someone quickly. It kills the power to the wheels.

👆👍 great observation and Intel. If I ever have problems, will refer to your comment. Thanks for taking the time to put this together.

Mine used to do exactly that, and I always thought it was the programming also. After doing the air-box flapper door fix, I no longer think that. I think the transmission was so slow shifting into 1st at a rolling stop *because* the motor was taking so long to get the ponies up and running. Now that my motor gets up and goes promptly, the transmission follows suit and is just as prompt.

Remind me again... Do you use a weakened magnet method, or take the flapper completely out? Thanks.
 
Mine used to do exactly that, and I always thought it was the programming also. After doing the air-box flapper door fix, I no longer think that. I think the transmission was so slow shifting into 1st at a rolling stop *because* the motor was taking so long to get the ponies up and running. Now that my motor gets up and goes promptly, the transmission follows suit and is just as prompt.
ditto for me in this specific issue on my 12.
 
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Mine used to do exactly that, and I always thought it was the programming also. After doing the air-box flapper door fix, I no longer think that. I think the transmission was so slow shifting into 1st at a rolling stop *because* the motor was taking so long to get the ponies up and running. Now that my motor gets up and goes promptly, the transmission follows suit and is just as prompt.
I did the air-box flapper mod. It has no effect at all in the scenario described when the transmission is in "Drive". If using the manual mode, and keep the gear in 1, slow down to 5, and punch it, the response is immediate. That scenario is helped by the air-box mod.

The transmission delay in "drive" is programming.
 
I did the air-box flapper mod. It has no effect at all in the scenario described when the transmission is in "Drive". If using the manual mode, and keep the gear in 1, slow down to 5, and punch it, the response is immediate. That scenario is helped by the air-box mod.

Odd that. Because in Drive is exactly where the mod made a Big difference for me. But the speeds you quote are about right, maybe more like 10. I can't imagine there is any significant different between my 2012 and your 2013.
 
Ok guys.. Which "mod" did you do? Remove the flapper completely, or make the magnets weaker?
 
Making the magnets weaker. 4 or 5 layers of gorilla tape.

Removing the flapper was determined to not be a good idea for a few reasons. The main thread has the details.

IMO, by replicating the scenario that causes the hesitation but keeping the transmission in 1 is a good test for engine response, as it takes the transmission programming out of the equation. I have no issues with engine response.
 
Making the magnets weaker. 4 or 5 layers of gorilla tape.

Removing the flapper was determined to not be a good idea for a few reasons. The main thread has the details.

IMO, by replicating the scenario that causes the hesitation but keeping the transmission in 1 is a good test for engine response, as it takes the transmission programming out of the equation. I have no issues with engine response.

Thanks... Yes, I was aware of building consensus of using weakened magnets over pulling out the flapper entirely. I was seeking confirmation of what you two had used.
 
Get an intake, makes a world of a difference. R2C performance sells one. I removed the flapper at first and it helped but went with the intake and have not looked back. it really opens up the engine!!
 
Thanks... Yes, I was aware of building consensus of using weakened magnets over pulling out the flapper entirely. I was seeking confirmation of what you two had used.

I went the Gorilla tape route on my 3.8. The difference was immediate and obvious, and I've been very happy with the results.
 
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