5.0 Engine Removal Write Up

[12Rspec50]

So, your 5.0 gave up the ghost, and you don't have a warranty and don't want to pay a shop/dealership to do your engine swap.

This swap isn't for the faint of heart, or the inexperienced. That being said, if you have general knowledge of mechanics and general mechanical ability, accompanied with this write up, the engine swap should be a breeze.


Parts list: replace at your discretion, I figure if you're already in there, you might as well replace easily accessed items.

I sourced my parts through Rock Auto, my local Hyundai dealership, and local parts stores (autozone, oreilly auto, napa etc.)

Radiator hoses.
Main drive belt.
Engine plastic cover clips.

Tools list: I used only basic hand tools, nothing I did required any air tools or power tools. If you have access to power tools USE them.

Shallow and deep Metric socket sets that go up to 25mm. 10mm 12mm 14mm 18mm will be your best friends.
Metric wrench set up to 19mm.
Pry bar set.
Phillips and flat blade assorted screw drivers.
Ratchets, both 6" and 10" (socket wrench)
Extensions 3" 6" 18"
Drain pans for oil and coolant.
Engine hoist/cherry picker
Engine leveler or chain as level as you can manage.

TAKE LOTS OF REFERENCE PICTURES AND NOTES

ORGANIZE ALL OF YOUR HARDWARE BY LOCATION OF REMOVAL.

The more care you take with your notes, pictures and organization, the smoother this whole operation will go.

Disconnect positive battery terminal.
1. Jack the car up. (Use appropriately rated jacks, and jack stands to ensure safety).

2. Support the front of the car with the jack stands at their highest safe positions. (This will aid you in under car movement and access to bolts).

3. Remove all skid plates and under trays. (Most of these you will be using a 10mm socket because they are recessed). Remove the hood. it is fastened with 4 12mm bolts, and one strut.


4. Drain all fluids from the engine and radiator. (Once fluids are drained, close drains.)


5. Remove engine plastics/covers. There are small tabs that fasten the plastics down that I have yet to figure out how to remove without breaking them. I bought new ones from Hyundai. (all engine plastics and covers use 10mm bolts)

6. Remove airbox and air intake ducting. (all use 10mm bolts)


7. Remove radiator. (I have a write up on radiator replacement on here, just search it up.)


8. Begin disconnecting the engine harness. Disconnect all connectors that attach to the engine.

9. LABEL ALL ENGINE HARNESS CONNECTORS.

10. There are Ground points on the rear of the valve covers at the bottoms of the connector banks, they come off with a 10mm. The connector banks are difficult to get to the clips, if you've got a friend with thin hands, utilize him here.

11. Disconnect fuel supply. This is located on the driver's side of the engine on the rear (firewall side) of the valve cover. This is push to connect style fitting. Push in on the connector, and press the clip in, the connection should release easily.

12. Remove the Serpentine belt. (NOTE THE BELT ROUTE WITH PICTURES, NOTES, DRAWINGS)

13. Remove the A/C compressor, there are 4 14mm bolts, 2 are accesible from the top, and 2 from underneath.

14. Pull the A/C compressor from its spot and move it clear of the engine bay. (I didn't have to evacuate the A/C system)

15. Remove the Alternator. (There are write ups on how to do this job. I can do a write up of my process if necessary.)

At this point, both motor mounts are accessible.

16. Unbolt both brackets that connect from the body to the exhaust.

17. Unbolt the exhaust from the manifolds at the flexpipe joint. These are on with 2 goofy looking 17mm bolts.

18. Remove inspection cover from the transmission. (a 2"x3" rectangular piece of plastic) to gain access to the flexplate-torque converter connection.

19. Using a ratchet and 22mm socket, turn engine over clockwise, by hand to expose each of the 6 14mm bolts. Remove all 6 bolts.

20. Remove all accessible bellhousing bolts from underneath the vehicle. There are 6 14mm bolts. (NOTE THEIR LENGTH AND LOCATION)

21. Unbolt the steering shaft at the steering rack. it is 1 12mm bolt. Shimmy the coupler off of the steering rack splines. (NOTE AND MARK THE ORIENTATION OF THE STEERING SHAFT IN RELATION TO THE STEERING RACK AND SPLINES)

22. Inside the car, locate the steering shaft. remove the 3 12mm bolts fastening the steering shaft boot to the firewall. Remove the 1 12mm thru bolt at the steering shaft connection to the steering wheel. (same removal method as at the rack.) Remove the steering shaft and pull it into the car. It will make the engine come out a lot easier.

23. Remove the 4 remaining bellhousing bolts from inside the engine bay. They are 17mm. (NOTE THEIR LENGTH AND LOCATION)

24. Using the cleared out space from removing the A/C and the Alternator, you will have access to the 18mm motor mount bolts.

25. DOUBLE CHECK ALL CONNECTORS, WIRING HARNESS, GROUND POINTS, BOLTS, FASTENERS TO ENSURE EVERYTHING HAS BEEN REMOVED.

26. Hook up your engine hoist/cherry picker and chain or engine leveler to the engine pickup points on the driver's side front of the engine and the passenger's side rear of the engine.

27. Lower your jack stands to their lowest point. (makes for less work when lifting the engine out)

28. Support the transmission with a block of wood and a jack to prevent it lowering. (use gentle pressure, no need to jack it up.)

29. Hoist the engine upwards and towards the front of the car. (get a friend to help with this process for safety and ease of removal.)

30. Double check again for any potential hang ups. (this is where I ran into issues with my steering shaft, and is why I suggest removing the shaft entirely)

31. Lift the engine up and out of the engine bay.

This process took me a total of about 30 hours. My engine from a recycler cost me around $3500 USD.

Bare with me as I collect pictures of specific trouble points. Feel free to reach out for specific descriptions if you intend on doing this job.

My write up was my process, and will definitely vary from the dealer, but at least proves that a regular guy without any special tools can do it in his garage in his spare time.

 

[Cali Gen]

5. Remove engine plastics/covers. There are small tabs that fasten the plastics down that I have yet to figure out how to remove without breaking them. I bought new ones from Hyundai. (all engine plastics and covers use 10mm bolts)

If youre talking about the little round ones that are all along the fron and sides of the engine bay.. You push down on the center slightly and then you should be able to pull them right out. I want in the future to swap the 5.0 for my 3.8.

I figure engine mounts and as you mentioned before engine and tranny harness. I would purchase a new Tuned ECU and ECU for 5.0 from BTR.. are there any things off the top of your head that id want to check for compatibility between the two. What parts from the 3.8 can be used in the swap and what wont? or does it depend on how much the engine i would be buying comes with?

It's a great write up and again truly appreciate that fact that:
1) you even did this and
2) you made the write up

If you dont mind me asking where about are you loacated?

 

[12Rspec50]

If youre talking about the little round ones that are all along the fron and sides of the engine bay.. You push down on the center slightly and then you should be able to pull them right out. I want in the future to swap the 5.0 for my 3.8.

I figure engine mounts and as you mentioned before engine and tranny harness. I would purchase a new Tuned ECU and ECU for 5.0 from BTR.. are there any things off the top of your head that id want to check for compatibility between the two. What parts from the 3.8 can be used in the swap and what wont? or does it depend on how much the engine i would be buying comes with?

It's a great write up and again truly appreciate that fact that:
1) you even did this and
2) you made the write up

If you dont mind me asking where about are you loacated?

As far as the small push in plastic clips, they don't work exactly as designed. Even with pushing the centers in, the little bastards break.

As far as the swap goes from 3.8 to 5.0, I think you'd be best off buying a wrecked donor car to source your 5.0, transmission, harness, and even exhaust.

I'm located in Reno, NV.

 

[12Rspec50]

Most engines you buy come complete from valve covers to oil pan. No accesories, no intake manifold, no exhaust manifolds, no harness. All sensors come with, most of the time.

 

[Cali Gen]

As far as the small push in plastic clips, they don't work exactly as designed. Even with pushing the centers in, the little bastards break.

As far as the swap goes from 3.8 to 5.0, I think you'd be best off buying a wrecked donor car to source your 5.0, transmission, harness, and even exhaust.

I'm located in Reno, NV.

You cant push them In too far it's just a slight pressure if you push them farther than Intended you end up expanding the prongs making them even harder to pull out as you've already experienced haha.

 

[12Rspec50]

You cant push them In too far it's just a slight pressure if you push them farther than Intended you end up expanding the prongs making them even harder to pull out as you've already experienced haha.

I just ate the $27 and let all of them explode.

 

[Cali Gen]

I just ate the $27 and let all of them explode.

hahaha that's great.. any recommendations onwhere I could look for donor cars?

 

[Marcus]

So, your 5.0 gave up the ghost, and you don't have a warranty and don't want to pay a shop/dealership to do your engine swap.

This swap isn't for the faint of heart, or the inexperienced. That being said, if you have general knowledge of mechanics and general mechanical ability, accompanied with this write up, the engine swap should be a breeze.


Parts list: replace at your discretion, I figure if you're already in there, you might as well replace easily accessed items.

I sourced my parts through Rock Auto, my local Hyundai dealership, and local parts stores (autozone, oreilly auto, napa etc.)

Radiator hoses.
Main drive belt.
Engine plastic cover clips.

Tools list: I used only basic hand tools, nothing I did required any air tools or power tools. If you have access to power tools USE them.

Shallow and deep Metric socket sets that go up to 25mm. 10mm 12mm 14mm 18mm will be your best friends.
Metric wrench set up to 19mm.
Pry bar set.
Phillips and flat blade assorted screw drivers.
Ratchets, both 6" and 10" (socket wrench)
Extensions 3" 6" 18"
Drain pans for oil and coolant.
Engine hoist/cherry picker
Engine leveler or chain as level as you can manage.

TAKE LOTS OF REFERENCE PICTURES AND NOTES

ORGANIZE ALL OF YOUR HARDWARE BY LOCATION OF REMOVAL.

The more care you take with your notes, pictures and organization, the smoother this whole operation will go.

Disconnect positive battery terminal.
1. Jack the car up. (Use appropriately rated jacks, and jack stands to ensure safety).

2. Support the front of the car with the jack stands at their highest safe positions. (This will aid you in under car movement and access to bolts).

3. Remove all skid plates and under trays. (Most of these you will be using a 10mm socket because they are recessed). Remove the hood. it is fastened with 4 12mm bolts, and one strut.


4. Drain all fluids from the engine and radiator. (Once fluids are drained, close drains.)


5. Remove engine plastics/covers. There are small tabs that fasten the plastics down that I have yet to figure out how to remove without breaking them. I bought new ones from Hyundai. (all engine plastics and covers use 10mm bolts)

6. Remove airbox and air intake ducting. (all use 10mm bolts)


7. Remove radiator. (I have a write up on radiator replacement on here, just search it up.)


8. Begin disconnecting the engine harness. Disconnect all connectors that attach to the engine.

9. LABEL ALL ENGINE HARNESS CONNECTORS.

10. There are Ground points on the rear of the valve covers at the bottoms of the connector banks, they come off with a 10mm. The connector banks are difficult to get to the clips, if you've got a friend with thin hands, utilize him here.

11. Disconnect fuel supply. This is located on the driver's side of the engine on the rear (firewall side) of the valve cover. This is push to connect style fitting. Push in on the connector, and press the clip in, the connection should release easily.

12. Remove the Serpentine belt. (NOTE THE BELT ROUTE WITH PICTURES, NOTES, DRAWINGS)

13. Remove the A/C compressor, there are 4 14mm bolts, 2 are accesible from the top, and 2 from underneath.

14. Pull the A/C compressor from its spot and move it clear of the engine bay. (I didn't have to evacuate the A/C system)

15. Remove the Alternator. (There are write ups on how to do this job. I can do a write up of my process if necessary.)

At this point, both motor mounts are accessible.

16. Unbolt both brackets that connect from the body to the exhaust.

17. Unbolt the exhaust from the manifolds at the flexpipe joint. These are on with 2 goofy looking 17mm bolts.

18. Remove inspection cover from the transmission. (a 2"x3" rectangular piece of plastic) to gain access to the flexplate-torque converter connection.

19. Using a ratchet and 22mm socket, turn engine over clockwise, by hand to expose each of the 6 14mm bolts. Remove all 6 bolts.

20. Remove all accessible bellhousing bolts from underneath the vehicle. There are 6 14mm bolts. (NOTE THEIR LENGTH AND LOCATION)

21. Unbolt the steering shaft at the steering rack. it is 1 12mm bolt. Shimmy the coupler off of the steering rack splines. (NOTE AND MARK THE ORIENTATION OF THE STEERING SHAFT IN RELATION TO THE STEERING RACK AND SPLINES)

22. Inside the car, locate the steering shaft. remove the 3 12mm bolts fastening the steering shaft boot to the firewall. Remove the 1 12mm thru bolt at the steering shaft connection to the steering wheel. (same removal method as at the rack.) Remove the steering shaft and pull it into the car. It will make the engine come out a lot easier.

23. Remove the 4 remaining bellhousing bolts from inside the engine bay. They are 17mm. (NOTE THEIR LENGTH AND LOCATION)

24. Using the cleared out space from removing the A/C and the Alternator, you will have access to the 18mm motor mount bolts.

25. DOUBLE CHECK ALL CONNECTORS, WIRING HARNESS, GROUND POINTS, BOLTS, FASTENERS TO ENSURE EVERYTHING HAS BEEN REMOVED.

26. Hook up your engine hoist/cherry picker and chain or engine leveler to the engine pickup points on the driver's side front of the engine and the passenger's side rear of the engine.

27. Lower your jack stands to their lowest point. (makes for less work when lifting the engine out)

28. Support the transmission with a block of wood and a jack to prevent it lowering. (use gentle pressure, no need to jack it up.)

29. Hoist the engine upwards and towards the front of the car. (get a friend to help with this process for safety and ease of removal.)

30. Double check again for any potential hang ups. (this is where I ran into issues with my steering shaft, and is why I suggest removing the shaft entirely)

31. Lift the engine up and out of the engine bay.

This process took me a total of about 30 hours. My engine from a recycler cost me around $3500 USD.

Bare with me as I collect pictures of specific trouble points. Feel free to reach out for specific descriptions if you intend on doing this job.

My write up was my process, and will definitely vary from the dealer, but at least proves that a regular guy without any special tools can do it in his garage in his spare time.

Which year model?