Burger Motorsports JB4 high performance tuner for Genesis vehicles

[Samy]

It's the one on #2. Follow the link I posted for the Veloster N. It is the white wire on Pin #2. Pin 1 has no wire in it.
The white wire translates to red wire on the engine side. But don't tap the engine side. Just the sensor side.
The 3.3TT is red on the sensor side.

You're awesome NLJ. I checked the N-Veloster forum. Thank you so much. Question for you. What if I tap it on the engine side. It's just super hard to get to the sensor side as you can see. Is this a big deal?

 

[NLJ]

You're awesome NLJ. I checked the N-Veloster forum. Thank you so much. Question for you. What if I tap it on the engine side. It's just super hard to get to the sensor side as you can see. Is this a big deal?

The part you're holding is the sensor side. The engine side is hard to get to. For the Veloster N guys it is easy cause their engine mounts transversely.
You can either tap it right at the sensor, or by the connecter like in the image of Pin #2.

 

[Samy]

The part you're holding is the sensor side. The engine side is hard to get to. For the Veloster N guys it is easy cause their engine mounts transversely.
You can either tap it right at the sensor, or by the connecter like in the image of Pin #2.

You're the best man. It is done. Now regarding the boost safety. The max is 21. Can't get to 24 because you get an error message stating that the valid safety fail safe is 21.

 

[NLJ]

You're the best man. It is done. Now regarding the boost safety. The max is 21. Can't get to 24 because you get an error message stating that the valid safety fail safe is 21.

Are you using the desktop interface or mobile Interface?
If you're on the desktop one, make sure you update to v10 firmware first and then try.

 

[Samy]

Got the latest firmware. Just drove the car a bit. It's better but goddamn the car still has no low-end torque. Such as a shame. I have the BMS Throttle Tunner on race mode and the car in Sport mode. I need to do some logging to see whats up.

 

[NLJ]

Change it to F-Series instead of Other under Platform. Then set back to above 21psi. It is in the settings tab I believe.
Otherwise you're only getting 2-3psi of boost over stock.

 

[Samy]

Change it to F-Series instead of Other under Platform. Then set back to above 21psi. It is in the settings tab I believe.
Otherwise you're only getting 2-3psi of boost over stock.

It worked! DUDE YOU ARE GOOD!

 

[NLJ]

It worked! DUDE YOU ARE GOOD!

Yeah I'm Gangsta like that!

 

[NLJ]

Unfortunately they are not updating the Desktop interface as much so we have to figure stuff out like this. The push is for the mobile app.
The OSX one is many years outdated. It doesn't log all the required channels. The Windows one is way better.

 

[Samy]

Yeah I'm Gangsta like that!

Just went for a drive. Dude now the car feels faster. Holy shit. It's very weird tho. Same thing, the turbo kicks in at a higher RPM. Around 2500. Like it's BRUTAL. It feels very much like a turbo S2000. You need to rev that baby to get the juice. Btw, is there a way to check if the fuel wire actually do something/were installed properly.

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[NLJ]

Just went for a drive. Dude now the car feels faster. Holy shit. It's very weird tho. Same thing, the turbo kicks in at a higher RPM. Around 2500. Like it's BRUTAL. It feels very much like a turbo S2000. You need to rev that baby to get the juice. Btw, is there a way to check if the fuel wire actually do something/were installed properly.

Yeah not sure that can be changed much cause I don't know if it is related to the 6MT gearing or anything else. But 2,000+ RPM is where you feel it. If you want a more linear ramp up, enable Bit7 in Future Use D. It won't affect WOT but the ramp up in boost for normal driving will be more linear by cutting boost here and there.
As for Fuel wires, Enable Bit1 in Future Use D and set Fuel Bias across the board to 10. Log it with Bit1 On and Off. With it ON and 10 across the board, your AFR under WOT should be under anywhere from 10.8-11.5 and with it OFF, it should be 11.7-11.8

You're tapering it down too much at the high end. Set 7,000 to 3.5 and the ones before it can be 4 and 5 at the lower rpm.
The ECU takes a while to adapt so eventually it will be a smoother spooling experience.

 

[Toddasaurus]

So, now that the temperature is really hot outside, looks like my ECU is dropping timing big time between 2500-3000 rpm (up to 6º!). Evidently my engine has a hot spot at that range when it's warm outside running on Map 2 and Portland 92 Octane gas (which I've read is actually really shite due to lack of state regulations, and is no better than 91).

Have not heard any knock, nor have I felt any significant drops in power, but I figure I'll switch back to Map 1 just to be extra safe. Been between 90-95 degrees out here. I'll focus on more power via bolt-ons for the time being.

 

[NLJ]

So, now that the temperature is really hot outside, looks like my ECU is dropping timing big time between 2500-3000 rpm (up to 6º!). Evidently my engine has a hot spot at that range when it's warm outside running on Map 2 and Portland 92 Octane gas (which I've read is actually really shite due to lack of state regulations, and is no better than 91).

Have not heard any knock, nor have I felt any significant drops in power, but I figure I'll switch back to Map 1 just to be extra safe. Been between 90-95 degrees out here. I'll focus on more power via bolt-ons for the time being.

Add more fuel to that range to see if it fixes it and cools it down a bit. Drop the AFR down to around 11.4 or so at 3,000 rpm.
Different engine I know but the Veloster N guys add more fuel to the bottom and to the very top to keep things cool when running high boost.

 

[FastEddie]

So, now that the temperature is really hot outside, looks like my ECU is dropping timing big time between 2500-3000 rpm (up to 6º!). Evidently my engine has a hot spot at that range when it's warm outside running on Map 2 and Portland 92 Octane gas (which I've read is actually really shite due to lack of state regulations, and is no better than 91).

Have not heard any knock, nor have I felt any significant drops in power, but I figure I'll switch back to Map 1 just to be extra safe. Been between 90-95 degrees out here. I'll focus on more power via bolt-ons for the time being.

Hot out? Come on down to Phoenix where it 105-110° and 91 octane. At least we are at 1300 ft elevation.

 

[Toddasaurus]

Add more fuel to that range to see if it fixes it and cools it down a bit. Drop the AFR down to around 11.4 or so at 3,000 rpm.
Different engine I know but the Veloster N guys add more fuel to the bottom and to the very top to keep things cool when running high boost.

I like that idea, but I'm not too worried about tinkering with these maps just yet. I've got more mods to install!

Also, I'm not seeing all those options in the Windows interface...

 

[NLJ]

I like that idea, but I'm not too worried about tinkering with these maps just yet. I've got more mods to install!

Also, I'm not seeing all those options in the Windows interface...

It is there on the Windows interface under User Settings/Adjustments. You don’t need to change Maps. The Windows interface has everything you need. Just needs updating to automatically recognize the platform.
Turn Bit1 ON in Future Use D and then just change the numbers in the Fuel Bias section. Starts at 3,000 rpm.
The default is 0 which is the same as 80 if you don’t change it. Basically targeting 11.8 or so.
The lower the number the richer the mix and the higher the number the leaner the mix.
Try with 80 first and WOT, then drop it by 10 points and WOT again. See what the difference is and adjust from there.

 

[Toddasaurus]

It is there on the Windows interface under User Settings/Adjustments. You don’t need to change Maps. The Windows interface has everything you need. Just needs updating to automatically recognize the platform.
Turn Bit1 ON in Future Use D and then just change the numbers in the Fuel Bias section. Starts at 3,000 rpm.
The default is 0 which is the same as 80 if you don’t change it. Basically targeting 11.8 or so.
The lower the number the richer the mix and the higher the number the leaner the mix.
Try with 80 first and WOT, then drop it by 10 points and WOT again. See what the difference is and adjust from there.

Future Use D? I have Future Use A..... set to 0 right now.

Example...

 

[NLJ]

Future Use D? I have Future Use A..... set to 0 right now.

Example...

View attachment 22122

The one right below A. There are 7 Bits you can toggle there.
Are you using the latest version of the Windows interface?

 

[Toddasaurus]

Yupparoo.

Problem is that I have no fuel control under 3k. And my ignition retard is showing specifically right between about 2100 and 2300rpm.

 

[NLJ]

Yupparoo.

Problem is that I have no fuel control under 3k. And my ignition retard is showing specifically right between about 2100 and 2300rpm.

Yeah that was an issue the Veloster guys were not too happy about.
Your best alternative then is Map6 and lower the boost @ 2,000 and 2,500 to 4psi. Then keep inching up .2 until you are solid.