Im not an expert i did this myself in a garage with a self bleeder lol but from what i feel is that as far as stopping distance? its relatively the same but the initial bite and how long i can brake or hard brake before there is fade is much improved.. also feels like the car is stopping much more smoothly and through front and back opposed to all the stopping being done up front. but i also have perforamnce pads and rotors soo idkHow do you handle the different braking forces front/rear? In "legit" brembo swaps they include a method to prevent overbraking the rear
lol, the brembos do look good.tru the oem calipers works fine @ 170k miles just wanted them juicy red brembos
Im not an expert i did this myself in a garage with a self bleeder lol but from what i feel is that as far as stopping distance? its relatively the same but the initial bite and how long i can brake or hard brake before there is fade is much improved.. also feels like the car is stopping much more smoothly and through front and back opposed to all the stopping being done up front. but i also have perforamnce pads and rotors soo idk
I'm not really sure what you're trying to say.. the issue to me seems to be you offering up 0 information on the what what thread starter was asking about. And when I offer my REAL world experience with them you got some "hooplah about blah blah" I've ever have come anywhere close to locking up my tires front or rear slowing from 60 or from 135. our intrusive Esc works just fine with them too literally 0 issues never felt like I had one I'm not over or under braking never seen an issue and I check brakes wheels and tires every two weeks. Pads wear evenly.. I mean honestly if you want to record some 60 to 0 times on dragy or something I'd be happy to do that. Gods honest truth you put me in a life or death set up I'm goi g with my brembo set up over my OEM Mandos. Please bear in mind I drive the lighter 3.8. If I had the heavier 5.0 i would swap the equus rotors and calipers because they're the biggest available and to bolt right up.Yeah. The issue is they sort of “work” but the front / rear split of braking force is almost certainly off. You can’t (or shouldn’t) just slap on Brembos and call it a day. It’s not about brake fade or bite.
..................... the issue to me seems to be you offering up 0 information on the what what thread starter was asking about. And when I offer my REAL world experience with them you got some "hooplah about blah blah" ...............
Dealing with proportioning valve issues on brembo conversions are very common knowledge. Simply google 'brembo conversion proportioning valve' and you will see countless threads on how to deal with the problems.
Just because you aren't capable of noticing a problem does not mean there isn't one. And you're dealing with a safety component of the car - this isn't adding a banging subwoofer or annoying exhaust, you're dealing with something pretty serious. I know that if someone were to hit and injure me or my family, and I found out they modified their brakes in frankly a very stupid and uninformed manner, I guarantee that either they or their insurance company would be writing me a very, very large check.
What you're proposing and what you've done to your vehicle without proper research is frankly totally negligent. The OP needs to be aware that any brake conversions, but especially brembos with the MUCH larger rear calipers, requires research to make sure that they are set up properly.
FYI - this has nothing to do with ESP, and unsprung weight has not a thing to do with stopping distances. I strongly suggest that you do not give folks advice on this topic.
Well please do inform us. Educate us all on the proportioning valve and the proper way to adjust front rear brake bias so that we can make the streets safer for you and your family.Respectfully, you simply don't understand the issue we have here. Lots of emotion in your post but the fact is, you're giving bad info. The proportioning cannot be the same between a single piston vs four piston rear caliper. It might "work" for you because you simple don't notice the issues, and if you personally want to take that risk then fine, however the OP and others deserve to know the intricacies of a swap like this, and that it's not as simple as it may seem.
I understand its simple..Listen, it's very simple to google 'which proportioning valve brembo' and you will get pages of info. I'm not going to give personal advice on it.
Generally, people either use a prop valve from the car the brakes came from or purchase an aftermarket adjustable valve. Brembos (even the pseudo brembos like on these cars) are VERY rear biased. Your ABS and to an extent ESP systems can try to compensate but it's a very poor bandaid to getting them set up properly and safely.