Adding bass to your 17 speaker Lexicon with new amplifier

[BillySmalz]

I appreciate this write-up, and will definitely be using it in the near future. My question is what is the rating of the stock sub, and why are we utilizing the stock amp along with an additional aftermarket amp?

 

[kocyk123]

No problem! Unfortunately I don't know the rating of the stock sub but maybe someone else here does and can pitch in. As far as utilizing the stock amp goes, we want to utilize it in order to be able to control the sub using the user interface. If you bypass the OEM amp, you can only control the sub from the new amp.

 

[bigdogbts]

I appreciate this write-up, and will definitely be using it in the near future. My question is what is the rating of the stock sub, and why are we utilizing the stock amp along with an additional aftermarket amp?

The stock amp powers all the speakers in the system, and receives a proprietary optical signal from the factory head unit. It's easier to add an amp inline to the sub than it is to replace the entire system.

Also, I looked pretty extensively on the web, and I couldn't ever find specifications for for the stock sub. I'm running an amp that puts out 250W RMS @ 4ohms, and it drives the sub PLENTY hard. Others have put more power behind it ::cough cough kocyk123:: and have blown their stock sub.

 

[kocyk123]

It happens, ok? LOL It works just fine and does not rattle (yet) when hooked with OEM amp only

 

[arcman]

The stock 10" sub can put out much lower bass than the stock amp provides. I put in a Rockville RXD-M1 amp ($100) and it made a surprising improvement. Enough, that I wouldn't even consider a different speaker.

One 10" sub isn't going to blow the windows out but if you want some bass in the 20-30hz range that's currently missing, install an aftermarket amp. Well worth the $100. The only minor thing I could complain about is since there's more bass it seems more directional than before. You know it's coming from the back of the car. Small drawback compared to the improved bottom end.

 

[brp]

Thank you. You are absolutely right. Thanks for catching that! It was my mistake when creating this tutorial. You want to use 4 and 5 from Connector A and 22 from Connector B:
View attachment 28131


I am not the greatest with explaining things but I added more explanation to my drawings:
View attachment 28133

I got a 2016 ultimate, and none of the colors your staying are matching

 

[kocyk123]

Send a picture

 

[princelybug]

Does anyone happen to know the wattage specs of the rear deck sub?

 

[brp]

#1 - wires going to the RCA adapter which connects to the input on the new AMP
#2 - wires coming from the new AMP from the speaker side
(picture from my first attemp with tap a wire. I fixed it with soldering and heat shrink so it looks clean)
View attachment 28100

below you will see where I grounded the amp. You can use self tapping screw:
View attachment 28101


Below you will find the RCA splitter. You can also see my gain and x-over setup. With this setup, my bass is set to 3 and it is sometimes too much when listening to XM Chill channel.
View attachment 28102

I ended up with your help installing a Julie basspro hub. Thanks again for posting.

 

[princelybug]

You mean "JBL BassPro Hub"?

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[brp]

Yes... stupid auto correct did that.

 

[FrostedCatTurd]

Added aftermarket sub and amp thanks to this thread and used #13s pins, soldered the remote wire. Factory amp does not turn on when the trunk is closed, everything works when the car is in ACC or On and trunk is open. Pull the fuse for aftermarket amp and factory amp will work with trunk closed. Maybe I need to find another remote to tap? Very weird stuff. Thanks for the idea to start this project! Any help is appreciated!

 

[kocyk123]

Hey, I made the correction couple posts later and this is correct:



You get the remote by splicing into pin #22 in Connector B. You grab input from Connector A from pins #4 and #5.

 

[FrostedCatTurd]

Hey, I made the correction couple posts later and this is correct:

View attachment 30370

You get the remote by splicing into pin #22 in Connector B. You grab input from Connector A from pins #4 and #5.

Yes, wired it using that correction. Suspected excessive tension the pink remote wire when the trunk is shut. Currently trying pin 21 the orange "ignition" wire right next to it, also should help that the aftermarket amp is only running when the car is running

 

[kocyk123]

It has to be something wrong with a wiring. You said that you have used pin #13. You don't want to be using that pin at all. Please share a picture of the connectors and where you tapped into.

 

[FrostedCatTurd]

It has to be something wrong with a wiring. You said that you have used pin #13. You don't want to be using that pin at all. Please share a picture of the connectors and where you tapped into.

Sorry meant post #13, your revised diagram

 

[Jamesalanb]

Working on this today, will be using an LC2i output converter.
my question is, do you HAVE to cut the speaker wire? I am using PosiTaps on them to get the the signal and I’m guessing if I run the amp output back to the speaker wire without cutting, it’ll close the circuit and overload. Is that correct? Must cut the wire to have one line from factory amp and one line to sub?

 

[kocyk123]

Sorry meant post #13, your revised diagram

I would make sure that your wire connections are solid and tight. What year and trim is your Genny?

Working on this today, will be using an LC2i output converter.
my question is, do you HAVE to cut the speaker wire? I am using PosiTaps on them to get the the signal and I’m guessing if I run the amp output back to the speaker wire without cutting, it’ll close the circuit and overload. Is that correct? Must cut the wire to have one line from factory amp and one line to sub?

Yes, if you are not adding the new subwoofer then you must cut the wires and make sure that the 2 wires coming out from the OEM amp go to the input of the new amp. Then add 2 new wires to the output of your new subwoofer and splice then with the 2 remaining wires that go to the oem suboowfer.

 

[FrostedCatTurd]

I would make sure that your wire connections are solid and tight. What year and trim is your Genny?

2015 5.0 Ultimate. Same problem with the ignition pin as the ACC pin so that leads me to belive there is a connectivity problem then closing the trunk adds a bit of tension on the wiring harness. Unless the aftermarket amp is giving some sort of feedback to the factory amp through the remote wire to put it into protect mode? It is all taped up right now so pictures will be no good. Acc wire is now fairly short so I'm going to add to it and check connection inside the pin.

 

[kocyk123]

There has to be something wrong with the wiring. Trunk has nothing to do with the sound system and its components.