OIL CHANGE ON 2019 G80 RWD

[Kraig Wilkinson]

2017 G80 3.8. No access hatches like on her Kia Sportage. Got to the front panel with a floor jack, but no way to remove the rear panel without going up on ramps.

I'm thinking about alternating every other change with a pump. Siphon, throw in a pint of cheap stuff and siphon again. The filter I put in is rated to 10k and might do that every other time as well.

I know, I know, filters are cheap, but I'm fat and have better things to do than wallering under and car. I just don't trust someone else as much as I do myself.

10k on an oil filter? Yikes! Such a nice car, why cheap out on maintenance?

 

[Kraig Wilkinson]

I've used Wix for years and it was due to the tear downs and how it compared to other filters. Wix and one other brand (where Wix made the filters for them ie... rebranded) mopped the floor.

However, the worst back then like Fram, Mobile1 (paper coffee like junk filters) etc... have now joined the extended mileage filters and now have a line of their own which I'm sure are good enough comparatively.

Mahle makes good stuff and is definitely top shelf quality. The stock filters used on our Genesis are Mahle oil filters..

As for driving I'm in the same boat as you with the miles driven per year... Since I'll be using the usual Amsoil Signature in my Genny I should be able to go quite a while before having to change it. The rated change interval is 25K or 1 Year ... however, I'll likely keep a close eye on it at around 10K and periodically check the oil as I plan to send in a sample to get it tested for my own data. I'll change the filter around that time too... I've tested many samples back in the day during my track days so I know Amsoil holds up... it's actually quite incredible.

Pennzoil is good stuff. I've used the Ultra platinum before when I had bought a few cases when it was on sale.

Out of curiosity, since you're in a hot environment, do you plan to change out your transmission fluid early for preventative measures? I'm not sure how many miles you have, but I like to change mine out at the 30K mark, just because I have the Amsoil ATF already anyway and it's one of those things of "eh why not..."

Have you looked into using Motorkote? It's very promising and being that you're in a hot environment it would be really beneficial.

I do my trans every 30k as well. Just had it done at the dealer. She shifts really smooth now. Well worth the $.

 

[TinsleyC]

After reading about the GDI engines and how they get less gunk buildup with more frequent oil changes, I may change it more often - like every six months. Changing it in the late fall and early spring is great because the weather is cool. Most all of my driving (unfortunately) is heavy city. I also idle it a bit when I run into stores and leave the wife in the car.

As for the trans, yes I'm thinking I'll do a flush at 50k. It's just preventive maintenance. I typically keep cars 10 years so that should be around the 5-6 year mark. I bought my car new, it's only the base model 3.8 but I like knowing everything that's been done to it.

 

[TinsleyC]

I do my trans every 30k as well. Just had it done at the dealer. She shifts really smooth now. Well worth the $.

Interesting. Was it a flush, and do you mind me asking what it cost?

 

[TinsleyC]

Have you looked into using Motorkote? It's very promising and being that you're in a hot environment it would be really beneficial.

I have not, but something else to research now...

 

[Kraig Wilkinson]

Interesting. Was it a flush, and do you mind me asking what it cost?

No . They did not do a flush. It was like 280. But I dont believe they changed the filter/pan. I was not real happy about that. But however I will take it back in about 10 or 15 k to have the pan/filter replaced. Either way it feels better now.

 

[unlock42]

I do my trans every 30k as well. Just had it done at the dealer. She shifts really smooth now. Well worth the $.

Excellent. Cheers to taking preventative measures.

After reading about the GDI engines and how they get less gunk buildup with more frequent oil changes, I may change it more often - like every six months. Changing it in the late fall and early spring is great because the weather is cool. Most all of my driving (unfortunately) is heavy city. I also idle it a bit when I run into stores and leave the wife in the car.

As for the trans, yes I'm thinking I'll do a flush at 50k. It's just preventive maintenance. I typically keep cars 10 years so that should be around the 5-6 year mark. I bought my car new, it's only the base model 3.8 but I like knowing everything that's been done to it.

Good point about the GDI and oil sludge @TinsleyC ... Since I'll be using Amsoil and since the film strength is ~4x better than other synthetics, I'm thinking that changing it at ~12k-15k mark (with an oil filter change before that) would suffice and be still conservative with amsoil signature.

I'm confident that my oil (amsoil) can deliver 100%...I've seen it with my own eyes with my own lab testing (sent out). With using quality oil being my first priority, the next most important thing for me is to flush out any "debris/shavings/etc.." more often ... this is why I normally change out the oil filter every 5K-7K before when going with the longer intervals with the oil. However, you do have a great point and I'm all for having fresh oil in there more often than not.... again, not due to the motor oil quality, but due to flushing the debris out more often. (Option 1 below would be good for this...)

I'm definitely not trying to break any records here or anything and I'm not a penny pincher at all when it comes to my cars lol. Quite the opposite. It actually baffles me when people buy expensive cars and then skimp out on the important things to save a few pennies. I've never understood that.

I've thought a lot about which option to go with:

1. Pennzoil Ultra Platinum (~$5 a quart) w/ Motorkote + Wix; every 7500-10,000 miles.

2. Amsoil Signature (~$8 a quart) w/ Motorkote (optional) + Wix + 1x oil filter change out about mid way; every 12K-15K+.

Since I have a nice stock of option 2, I'll likely just stick with that.

Interesting. Was it a flush, and do you mind me asking what it cost?

I despise going to the stealership, but for the sake of getting the service done and having it report on the VIN (carfax etc...) is why I'll bite my tongue to just do it under certain conditions.... I literally watch them like a hawk.

I've called around to different Hyundai dealerships and spoke wit the service dept manager. They quoted me $280 for the transmission fluid + cleaned & flush (back flush) for $280 (no pan removal or filter change). However, since I'll be bringing in my own ATF, it'll be cheaper...basically $280 less the price of what they would charge for their OEM ATF... I believe our Genny's take 11.7qt? So that's a nice slice off of the quote.

When getting your ATF changed with your own ATF fluid, just make sure that they use your ATF and not their own and keep yours (even with your own oil and filter)... you have no idea how shady these stealerships are, so watch them like a hawk.

No . They did not do a flush. It was like 280. But I dont believe they changed the filter/pan. I was not real happy about that. But however I will take it back in about 10 or 15 k to have the pan/filter replaced. Either way it feels better now.

I wonder what the mileage rating is for the AT pan filter? Hmmm...

 

[TinsleyC]

I don't like bringing in my own fluids for that very reason, just don't trust them. I'm not the type to hang around the garage watching, I'll take their G70 loaner and drive back to work.

With my 3.8 the filter is down low on the engine, can it be changed without having oil go everywhere? Seems like if removed with oil still in the car, it would drain out when the filter is removed. But hopefully I'm wrong!

 

[unlock42]

I don't like bringing in my own fluids for that very reason, just don't trust them. I'm not the type to hang around the garage watching, I'll take their G70 loaner and drive back to work.

With my 3.8 the filter is down low on the engine, can it be changed without having oil go everywhere? Seems like if removed with oil still in the car, it would drain out when the filter is removed. But hopefully I'm wrong!

Fair enough, to each his own... but the thought of them using conventional oil and charging you for synthetic is not beneath them. I'm happy to watch the like a hawk, when the labor for the change is literally under $20... It's easy.

 

[Kraig Wilkinson]

Excellent. Cheers to taking preventative measures.



Good point about the GDI and oil sludge @TinsleyC ... Since I'll be using Amsoil and since the film strength is ~4x better than other synthetics, I'm thinking that changing it at ~12k-15k mark (with an oil filter change before that) would suffice and be still conservative with amsoil signature.

I'm confident that my oil (amsoil) can deliver 100%...I've seen it with my own eyes with my own lab testing (sent out). With using quality oil being my first priority, the next most important thing for me is to flush out any "debris/shavings/etc.." more often ... this is why I normally change out the oil filter every 5K-7K before when going with the longer intervals with the oil. However, you do have a great point and I'm all for having fresh oil in there more often than not.... again, not due to the motor oil quality, but due to flushing the debris out more often. (Option 1 below would be good for this...)

I'm definitely not trying to break any records here or anything and I'm not a penny pincher at all when it comes to my cars lol. Quite the opposite. It actually baffles me when people buy expensive cars and then skimp out on the important things to save a few pennies. I've never understood that.

I've thought a lot about which option to go with:

1. Pennzoil Ultra Platinum (~$5 a quart) w/ Motorkote + Wix; every 7500-10,000 miles.

2. Amsoil Signature (~$8 a quart) w/ Motorkote (optional) + Wix + 1x oil filter change out about mid way; every 12K-15K+.

Since I have a nice stock of option 2, I'll likely just stick with that.



I despise going to the stealership, but for the sake of getting the service done and having it report on the VIN (carfax etc...) is why I'll bite my tongue to just do it under certain conditions.... I literally watch them like a hawk.

I've called around to different Hyundai dealerships and spoke wit the service dept manager. They quoted me $280 for the transmission fluid + cleaned & flush (back flush) for $280 (no pan removal or filter change). However, since I'll be bringing in my own ATF, it'll be cheaper...basically $280 less the price of what they would charge for their OEM ATF... I believe our Genny's take 11.7qt? So that's a nice slice off of the quote.

When getting your ATF changed with your own ATF fluid, just make sure that they use your ATF and not their own and keep yours (even with your own oil and filter)... you have no idea how shady these stealerships are, so watch them like a hawk.



I wonder what the mileage rating is for the AT pan filter? Hmmm...

I think manual states 60k on filter and fluid change for trans.

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[Dan G]

So I finally changed the oil on my 2019 G80 3.8.

Process was easy, I jacked up the left front side of the car using a 3 ton floor jack and put a jack stand next to the floor jack for safety. I was able to access the oil filter and drain plug with ease.

Not sure if it's okay for the car's frame to jack it up on one side to change the oil 20 times over the car's life, so I may buy some Rhino Ramps instead. I never liked getting under a car held by jacks and stands, anyway. At least I'm not in an earthquake prone area!

A simple socket set was used to remove and install everything, no issue there - easy access.

The oil drain plug faces rearwards on the car, so raising the front end might help with draining all the oil out. It uses a 17mm socket to access.

The two access panels were easy to remove and use a 10mm socket, but the rear one which accesses the oil drain plug also had two plastic snap-in panel joiner things that also had to be removed. Overkill if you ask me, but it is what it is. Just pry them open with a flat blade screwdriver and they pull out easily.

I made the mistake of buying 10 oil drain plug aluminum gaskets - I didn't realize that one comes with the WIX oil filter I had bought. So I'll never use those. The filter also comes with the rubber o-ring you need to replace on the oil filter cap.

My old drain pan only held 5 quarts, so I bought a new one that holds eight quarts. It's the Capri Tools CP21024, on Amazon for $20. It's easy when it comes to pouring the old oil out. This engine holds 7.3 quarts, it worked well. Plus, it's very convenient to have a second catch pan - one for the oil, and one for the filter.

I bought a 27mm socket to remove the oil cap to access the old cartridge filter. Bought the "Steelman 27mm Low Profile Oil Filter Wrench Socket" on Amazon for $10. It's well made. You could use a box or crescent wrench but it would not be nearly as easy. Plus, you're less likely to damage the cap by using a proper socket.

For oil, I used Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30 and the filter is a WIX WL10033. Got the oil at Walmart, bought three 5 quarts jugs - the 3.8 engine uses just under 1.5 jugs per change, so I kept half a jug which I'll use on my next oil change. Actually, the car seemed to use more like 7.25 quarts, so I may use the extra, left over oil to help flush the old stuff out on next oil change.

The WIX WL10033 oil filter was bought at RockAuto.com. They have good prices and fast shipping. I researched every filter available for this engine and the WIX is about as good as they get.

I noticed that the oil filter housing is made by Mahle, and that company also makes oil filters for this car. I overlooked them when searching for filters but will consider them in the future. I suspect the OEM filters are made by Mahle. One would think Mahle knows how to make filters for their own filter housing.

The only unusual part of this was replacing the new filter, o-ring, and cap onto the filter housing. It became tight sooner than expected as I was screwing it on, I was afraid I was cross-threading it. There were marks of white paint on the filter housing, one on the housing and one on the cap. Before I removed the cap I noticed the two white marks lined up. When replacing the cap I stopped tightening it when the marks lined up again and the cap was seated. I was glad to have that visual reference.

I was able to get all the old oil into empty jugs I had, filling empty space in old jugs used by two other cars. There's a Qwik Lube on my way to work where I can dump the old oil, so no issue there.

All in all, I would say that I can change the oil in the car in equal or better time that it would take two drive it to the dealer and have it done. I don't trust the Genesis valet pick up anyway, or the synthetic oil upcharge, so this works for me. Plus I kind of enjoy doing the work.

Great detailed write up, I use the OEM - Mahle oil filter 26330-3CKB0 which comes with the drain plug gasket and oil filter housing O-ring. I purchased it from the Kia dealer.

 

[TinsleyC]

Thanks for the comments... I've considered using the OEM Mahle filter, but honestly the WIX just looked better to me. The Mahle had paper on the end, the WIX was hard rubber. I assume that paper doesn't act as a filter. Maybe the paper acts as a bypass if the main media gets clogged up.

 

[Dan G]

Thanks for the comments... I've considered using the OEM Mahle filter, but honestly the WIX just looked better to me. The Mahle had paper on the end, the WIX was hard rubber. I assume that paper doesn't act as a filter. Maybe the paper acts as a bypass if the main media gets clogged up.

View attachment 31703 View attachment 31704

The WIX appears to have a better filter construction. The Mahle is flimsy, probably utilizing the filter housing for support. My Toyota has a similar filter housing and only paper filter.
I bought Rhino Ramps for my last oil change. They get the front of the Genesis up 7 inches but not enough to reach the drain plug and filter at the back of the engine. I still need to jack - up the car for better access

 

[Kraig Wilkinson]

Thanks for the comments... I've considered using the OEM Mahle filter, but honestly the WIX just looked better to me. The Mahle had paper on the end, the WIX was hard rubber. I assume that paper doesn't act as a filter. Maybe the paper acts as a bypass if the main media gets clogged up.

View attachment 31703 View attachment 31704

I agree with you TinsleyC, the wicks looks to be a better filter. I have been using the Genesis OEM filters for my 5.0. I purchase them from the dealer who I use for Warranty Work. I think I paid 7$ per filter.

 

[bubbaG80Sport]

I used the Purolator PureOne (rebranded as PurolatorONE now) oil filters on my 2011 Hyundai Genesis 3.8. They don't make a PurolatorONE for the 2018 G80 Sport 3.3T. I did research and determined Wix was one of the best oil filters on the market. At the time the NAPA Gold filter was made by Wix so I have been using NAPA Gold filter ever since. A little pricey ($12.49USD), but my girl gets the best (or I spend more on her ).

 

[Kraig Wilkinson]

I used the Purolator PureOne (rebranded as PurolatorONE now) oil filters on my 2011 Hyundai Genesis 3.8. They don't make a PurolatorONE for the 2018 G80 Sport 3.3T. I did research and determined Wix was one of the best oil filters on the market. At the time the NAPA Gold filter was made by Wix so I have been using NAPA Gold filter ever since. A little pricey ($12.49USD), but my girl gets the best (or I spend more on her ).

I feel the same way ! My Girl Gets the best... Just did 1100mile 19 hours straight run with my Genny!!@ Best Road tripping Car Ever...