McGyver9
Hasn't posted much yet...
Hey guys, and gals...
I replaced the front brakes on my 2016 3.8.
Took some pix along the way, so those that might be intimidated about doing this EASY task can see it's simplicity.
I'm not a 'tuner' or anything...I don't hot-rod my car around...I ordered my rotors/ceramic pads off of Amazon...
FIRST thing....If you EVER want to change a tire on the roadside, you BETTER be carrying a piece of cheater pipe (3/4 black iron pipe/get it at home depot) that will fit the lug wrench, at LEAST 2 maybe 3 feet long! (also useful if some idiot approaches you while you're in your trunk)
Otherwise, you're going to be waiting for a tow truck!
The tiny supplied lug wrench will NEVER give you enough torque to get those lugs loose...
I (220 pounds) even jumped on it (really stupid), just so I can tell you that THAT didn't work either.
Spread the word!
That said, if you are starting on the drivers side, turn the wheel ALL the way to the right.....(turn to the left for the passenger side)
Once you have the car jacked up/jackstands in place/brake set/rear wheels chocked....and get the wheel off, just follow the steps in the photos.
I removed everything I could with the caliper still attached...so it's stable. That access plate, the retainer clips in the pins, and the pins.
I clamped the vicegrips (pictured) on the pins, then tapped them out with a hammer.
Don't forget the 10mm retainer on the brake line.
An impact with a deep well (not necessary/that's all I have) will fit to loosen the caliper bolts....or you can use a socket wrench.. 17mm IIRC.
I had this little chock to set the caliper on, but you can use a block of wood, or you can balance it on the suspension someplace if you don't...I wouldn't let it hang from the brake line.
Had to beat the rotor loose with a sledge (after removing the #3 Philips...NOT the standard size #2...you'll strip it out!)
THANKS NY salt trucks!
NOTE: If you are really anal and added brake fluid prior to it being "low", then you're going to have to be prepared to catch some overflow/suck some fluid out before compressing the pistons...
Use the c-clamp to compress the pistons all the way back into the caliper.
I've also seen people jamb a screwdriver in between the old brake-pads and the old rotor, (before removing the caliper) and force them back THAT way...
Whatever....I like the c-clamp on the old pad myself....If you don't have one, the other way WILL work.
Put the new spring clips in, (being careful to not cut yourself) ONE at a time (remove the old one/replace it w/ the new one...so you don't get confused)
If you're in the rustbelt, like ME, you might want to take a file/wire brush to the rusty places on the caliper,under the spring clips, before installing the new ones. The pads will go in easier.
Be sure to use a healthy amount of brake cleaner and paper towels on both sides of the rotors, to get the shipping oil off of them.
I set them in the opened cardboard box, (on concrete) to catch any overflow.... It'll melt blacktop.
I always put "never seize" on the pins/bolts/lugs/hub.
Somebody will probably chime in and tell you that I'm "killing you and your family", but if you have to go rent a torch to get one of these things off NEXT time, I might ALSO be saving you from killing your family at a DIFFERENT time......
Everything else is pretty much the reverse of everything you did in removal.
This is a REALLY easy job.
It kills me to see what people pay to have things like this done FOR them.
I guess if you work 70 hours a week, maybe your time is more valuable to you....but I bet you wait LONGER at the dealer/garage to get it back, than it would take you to DIY...and you don't have the satisfaction of a job well done!
PS, I'm SURE there are torque specs for all of these fasteners, but I just use my built in torque wrench...tight as you can comfortably make them.....I've done literally a hundred brake jobs, and survived 57 years...
That never-seize would throw off a torque spec anyway... (but again, you WILL thank me later/next time/side of the road)
I replaced the front brakes on my 2016 3.8.
Took some pix along the way, so those that might be intimidated about doing this EASY task can see it's simplicity.
I'm not a 'tuner' or anything...I don't hot-rod my car around...I ordered my rotors/ceramic pads off of Amazon...
FIRST thing....If you EVER want to change a tire on the roadside, you BETTER be carrying a piece of cheater pipe (3/4 black iron pipe/get it at home depot) that will fit the lug wrench, at LEAST 2 maybe 3 feet long! (also useful if some idiot approaches you while you're in your trunk)
Otherwise, you're going to be waiting for a tow truck!
The tiny supplied lug wrench will NEVER give you enough torque to get those lugs loose...
I (220 pounds) even jumped on it (really stupid), just so I can tell you that THAT didn't work either.
Spread the word!
That said, if you are starting on the drivers side, turn the wheel ALL the way to the right.....(turn to the left for the passenger side)
Once you have the car jacked up/jackstands in place/brake set/rear wheels chocked....and get the wheel off, just follow the steps in the photos.
I removed everything I could with the caliper still attached...so it's stable. That access plate, the retainer clips in the pins, and the pins.
I clamped the vicegrips (pictured) on the pins, then tapped them out with a hammer.
Don't forget the 10mm retainer on the brake line.
An impact with a deep well (not necessary/that's all I have) will fit to loosen the caliper bolts....or you can use a socket wrench.. 17mm IIRC.
I had this little chock to set the caliper on, but you can use a block of wood, or you can balance it on the suspension someplace if you don't...I wouldn't let it hang from the brake line.
Had to beat the rotor loose with a sledge (after removing the #3 Philips...NOT the standard size #2...you'll strip it out!)
THANKS NY salt trucks!
NOTE: If you are really anal and added brake fluid prior to it being "low", then you're going to have to be prepared to catch some overflow/suck some fluid out before compressing the pistons...
Use the c-clamp to compress the pistons all the way back into the caliper.
I've also seen people jamb a screwdriver in between the old brake-pads and the old rotor, (before removing the caliper) and force them back THAT way...
Whatever....I like the c-clamp on the old pad myself....If you don't have one, the other way WILL work.
Put the new spring clips in, (being careful to not cut yourself) ONE at a time (remove the old one/replace it w/ the new one...so you don't get confused)
If you're in the rustbelt, like ME, you might want to take a file/wire brush to the rusty places on the caliper,under the spring clips, before installing the new ones. The pads will go in easier.
Be sure to use a healthy amount of brake cleaner and paper towels on both sides of the rotors, to get the shipping oil off of them.
I set them in the opened cardboard box, (on concrete) to catch any overflow.... It'll melt blacktop.
I always put "never seize" on the pins/bolts/lugs/hub.
Somebody will probably chime in and tell you that I'm "killing you and your family", but if you have to go rent a torch to get one of these things off NEXT time, I might ALSO be saving you from killing your family at a DIFFERENT time......
Everything else is pretty much the reverse of everything you did in removal.
This is a REALLY easy job.
It kills me to see what people pay to have things like this done FOR them.
I guess if you work 70 hours a week, maybe your time is more valuable to you....but I bet you wait LONGER at the dealer/garage to get it back, than it would take you to DIY...and you don't have the satisfaction of a job well done!
PS, I'm SURE there are torque specs for all of these fasteners, but I just use my built in torque wrench...tight as you can comfortably make them.....I've done literally a hundred brake jobs, and survived 57 years...
That never-seize would throw off a torque spec anyway... (but again, you WILL thank me later/next time/side of the road)
