Adding an amp to the 14 speaker factory sub - keep your spare tire, too!

[CortinaJ]

So I just finished installing and tuning a mono amp to the factory subwoofer on my 17 G80 (I know it's a Genesis, but it shares almost everything with the 15-16 so posting it in both places because it could potentially benefit both groups) with the 14 speaker system.

I know there has already been a walkthrough posted on doing this for the 17 speaker system, and there was a lot of confusion with the similarities and differences between the 17 speaker and 14 speaker setups, so I figured I would ask -

Would anyone be interested in a detailed walkthrough on how to do this with the 14 speaker system?

 

[Smitty15Gen]

I have to 14 speaker system, I just want to know what color wires to connect for the sound, From the factory wires to the new sub amp??

I thought I had the 17 speaker system... so trying to wire it that way did not work. lol

 

[CortinaJ]

I have to 14 speaker system, I just want to know what color wires to connect for the sound, From the factory wires to the new sub amp??

I thought I had the 17 speaker system... so trying to wire it that way did not work. lol

The gray plug on your amp, if you're looking at the end the wires go into, it's wire 21 and 22. Blue with orange stripe is (-) and gray with black stripe is (+)

 

[CortinaJ]

I have to 14 speaker system, I just want to know what color wires to connect for the sound, From the factory wires to the new sub amp??

I thought I had the 17 speaker system... so trying to wire it that way did not work. lol

 

[Smitty15Gen]

ok, Cool. Only difference is I will be adding a new sub box as well. So I can just splice into those wires in stead of cutting them..
Thank for the info. Ill let you know how it works out.

OOh, one more question, where did you run the amp turn on wire too??

 

[CortinaJ]

ok, Cool. Only difference is I will be adding a new sub box as well. So I can just splice into those wires in stead of cutting them..
Thank for the info. Ill let you know how it works out.

OOh, one more question, where did you run the amp turn on wire too??

So I actually didn't run one. The Alpine MRV250 amp that I used has the remote sensing feature if using the speaker level inputs, so it automatically turns on when it senses a signal coming in. If you get an amp with remote sensing and speaker level inputs, you do not need to run an ACC wire.

 

[Smitty15Gen]

So I actually didn't run one. The Alpine MRV250 amp that I used has the remote sensing feature if using the speaker level inputs, so it automatically turns on when it senses a signal coming in. If you get an amp with remote sensing and speaker level inputs, you do not need to run an ACC wire.
View attachment 39590

Ok. Well i have an amp from my last car that I am using and i have to find the wire.. I may just use a fuse piggy back.

Thanks again for the information.

 

[CortinaJ]

Ok. Well i have an amp from my last car that I am using and i have to find the wire.. I may just use a fuse piggy back.

Thanks again for the information.

Look for a pink/light pink wire on the white connector. That will be your ACC line.

 

[carguy75]

So I just finished installing and tuning a mono amp to the factory subwoofer on my 17 G80 (I know it's a Genesis, but it shares almost everything with the 15-16 so posting it in both places because it could potentially benefit both groups) with the 14 speaker system.

I know there has already been a walkthrough posted on doing this for the 17 speaker system, and there was a lot of confusion with the similarities and differences between the 17 speaker and 14 speaker setups, so I figured I would ask -

Would anyone be interested in a detailed walkthrough on how to do this with the 14 speaker system?View attachment 39528View attachment 39529View attachment 39530View attachment 39531

What is the RMS wattage for the stock subwoofer? If you overload(blow) the stock subwoofer with an aftermarket amp that is rated too high for the stock subwoofer to handle; it will be a pain in the ass to replace it since you have to remove the back seats to access it from the rear deck.

However, you do have a clean install.

 

[CortinaJ]

What is the RMS wattage for the stock subwoofer? If you overload(blow) the stock subwoofer with an aftermarket amp that is rated too high for the stock subwoofer to handle; it will be a pain in the ass to replace it since you have to remove the back seats to access it from the rear deck.

However, you do have a clean install.

Doesn't really seem like anyone knows what the stock subwoofer is rated for, but the amp I used is 150 watts RMS 4ohm/250 watts RMS 2ohm. I specifically used a 250 watt amp to (hopefully) avoid overloading the factory sub. On top of that I have the Bass Boost set at 0 on the amp, the gain slightly below 50%, and the bass set at 0 on the head unit.

As far as removing the rear seats go - it takes less than 15 seconds to remove the rear bench. If the process is similar for the upper portion as well, I can't imagine it taking more than 5 minutes to remove the rear seats.

Also, thanks for the compliment - this was actually the first time I've ever messed with car audio myself. Planned it all out in my head before I did anything, I'm just glad it actually worked the way I saw it in my head lol.

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[carguy75]

Doesn't really seem like anyone knows what the stock subwoofer is rated for, but the amp I used is 150 watts RMS 4ohm/250 watts RMS 2ohm. I specifically used a 250 watt amp to (hopefully) avoid overloading the factory sub. On top of that I have the Bass Boost set at 0 on the amp, the gain slightly below 50%, and the bass set at 0 on the head unit.

As far as removing the rear seats go - it takes less than 15 seconds to remove the rear bench. If the process is similar for the upper portion as well, I can't imagine it taking more than 5 minutes to remove the rear seats.

Also, thanks for the compliment - this was actually the first time I've ever messed with car audio myself. Planned it all out in my head before I did anything, I'm just glad it actually worked the way I saw it in my head lol.

Removing the upper portions of the rear seat is a bit more involved than releasing the lower seat cushion latches. The rear pillar trim, seat belts, and package tray has to be removed to access the rear subwoofer. Not an impossible job, but time consuming.



I am betting that the stock subwoofer can only handle about 50-75watts rms over a long period of time before the voice coil goes out.

Well anyway, do the new amp give the stock sub more punch without distortion?

 

[CortinaJ]

Removing the upper portions of the rear seat is a bit more involved than releasing the lower seat cushion latches. The rear pillar trim, seat belts, and package tray has to be removed to access the rear subwoofer. Not an impossible job, but time consuming.
View attachment 39664
View attachment 39663

I am betting that the stock subwoofer can only handle about 50-75watts rms over a long period of time before the voice coil goes out.

Well anyway, do the new amp give the stock sub more punch without distortion?

That's still not too bad when you're used to working on race cars/drag cars.

I guess only time will tell. There's 0 distortion with my current settings. And it doesn't add a ton of overall volume to the stock sub, but it makes a HUGE improvement on hitting the lower frequencies. I'd say overall volume capability of the sub is increased by 25-30% but it fills out way more.

 

[carguy75]

That's still not too bad when you're used to working on race cars/drag cars.

I guess only time will tell. There's 0 distortion with my current settings. And it doesn't add a ton of overall volume to the stock sub, but it makes a HUGE improvement on hitting the lower frequencies. I'd say overall volume capability of the sub is increased by 25-30% but it fills out way more.

My guess is that it may take about 30 minutes or less to pull the rear seats and panels out to change the rear deck subwoofer, so not the hardest job to do if necessary. Hopefully the stock subwoofer is built fairly well and can handle the extra power.

 

[Smitty15Gen]

Ok. Last question. Who did you connect the amp to the battery???

 

[CortinaJ]

Ok. Last question. Who did you connect the amp to the battery???

 

[Smitty15Gen]

View attachment 39797

Hmmmm, does anyone know if theres a fuse that goes to the big cable??
Mehh... ill make that spot work..
Thanks again.

 

[CortinaJ]

Hmmmm, does anyone know if theres a fuse that goes to the big cable??
Mehh... ill make that spot work..
Thanks again.

Why look for a fuse when you can just connect directly to the battery and add a fuse in your power line?

 

[Smitty15Gen]

I was talking about here... but i think it has a fuse.. So I decided to try to make your attachment point work.

 

[CortinaJ]

View attachment 39801
I was talking about here... but i think it has a fuse.. So I decided to try to make your attachment point work.

Ohhhhh. That's a ground wire. Doubt you'd get power off of it.

 

[carguy75]

Ohhhhh. That's a ground wire. Doubt you'd get power off of it.

Incorrect, that is a positive power cable. I use that cable to power my aftermarket amp.