No crank no start issue 4.6L

[Mycarhateme]

I have a 4.6 A/T 2010 genesis premium that is completely dead. Car has 170k miles and I have had it since 35k miles. It has a new die hard battery, new spark plugs and oil was just done. The car has always had issues with no crank no start. Each time the battery has been switched out the car turned back on. This time none of the old ways of turning genny on are working. I’ve attached a photo of the codes my scanner picked up a month ago I replaced the evap purge valve in the engine thinking that would fix the problem, then a few days later car was dead. Lights and everything else in the car in working but it won’t turn over. No engine codes and the navigation in the vehicle won’t turn off either no matter how many times I press the push to start to turn everything off. Also the car would not start mostly after getting fuel. The only way to get gas was to fill up with leaving the car on. Any suggestions please? If it’s the starter or fuel pump why am I not receiving codes specific to a starter or fuel pump? Maybe I am missing something l, this car has been hell to own. Thank you for your help

Btw I just noticed code p2187 in freeze frame DTC. Any explanation specifically to this car would be helpful

 

[Gunkk]

to the forum.

Driving as car 12k miles with an active CEL is a sign that the problem is between the steering wheel and seat.

 

[Mycarhateme]

to the forum.

Driving as car 12k miles with an active CEL is a sign that the problem is between the steering wheel and seat.

Like an unplugged sensor? What should I be checking specifically? Couldn’t be the ignition right?

 

[Gunkk]

No crank no start can be any number of dozens to hundreds of things. Fuses. Fuse blocks. Relays. Wiring. Grounds. Immobilizer. Half dozen modules or so and every sensor they're connected to.

Those codes are emissions related. Trouble while/after fueling is almost always purge/vent system related. Filling the tank with the car on is a bad idea and can cause more issues. Doing so to try and avoid a problem will likely make it worse.

The internet is not the place for this kind of diagnosis; but hey, free advice is worth every cent! Fire the parts cannon if you wish, but most folks find themselves better off getting the car in front of a competent automotive electrician and paying $250 or so for a proper diagnosis. Some might discount part or all of that fee if they also to the repair.

Once you know what's wrong, then you can decide what problems you want to continue to ignore.