G70 aftermarket brake pads

[Volfy]

As a footnote to my previous post about the brake pedal shudder and then the brake smell .......... I have put about 200 miles on the car since this happened and it has not occurred again. Brakes seem fine, in fact, in traffic they are actually doing better and I am not getting that hard 1st gear downshift when slowing down (around 20-15 mph) that has been present on the car since I bought it with 2000 miles on it. I am guessing that the pad build up was causing some jerky braking that was affecting the transmission sensors. It is very smooth now - I can slowly approach a traffic stop and not notice the transmission downshift at all. I had read the other threads with posts about getting the TCU reset and thought that was what needed to be done to mine but apparently the brake pad buildup was so bad it was causing this issue too.

Very odd. I have owned a lot of cars & motorcycles over the years and this is a first for me. Still might change the pads but will hold off for a while to see if the build up happens again.

I think that is a good approach. I drove on stock pads for about 1-1/2yrs without too much issue. I could see the obvious pad build up on the rotors and occasionally feel the effects when I had to step on the pedal a bit harder than usual. For me, it wasn't even a pulsation, more like just a rough gritty feedback. The braking performance didn't deteriorate and the pedal feel was still quite linear for the most part. Realistically, I could continue to drive (everyday/commute) on them, albeit keeping a close eye on all the rotors. The only reason I swapped the pads "early" was for the Track Day back in October. Besides the stock ceramic pads not being suitable for the much higher temp range at the track, hard braking in an event like that would risk hot spotting the rotors that already have copious amounts of pad material deposit.

FWIW, pad compound formulation is ALWAYS going to be a compromise. Despite advances in materials science, any pad compound has a temp range it works best in, and choosing one over another for performance gain in some areas will ALWAYS be accompanied with drawbacks in other characteristics. Those who claim one particular pad is good for all types of driving conditions are either ignorant, or lying... or both.

The stock ceramic pads on the Brembos might be scorn by just about everybody who have driven on them, but the very reason they tend to cause rotor deposit may also be the reason they don't generate much brake dust at all. In the 1-1/2yrs I drove on them (on the Stinger), I was very impressed with just how little brake dust I've had to clean off the wheels. The Eurosport pads on our G70 6MT left no rotor deposits but do generate considerable amount of brake dust. The EBC Bluestuff I have on the Stinger now... effing brake dust city!!! But boy were they brilliant at the track.

Pick your poison.

 

[Xclusive]

They’re fine. Unless you get that vibration issue or drive on track an upgrade really isn’t needed

I get the vibrating bad. I just made this account. 1st time owning a 2020 genesis g70 3.3t and its only at 14k miles now. I get that brake shrudding from 40mph if I try slowing down. Its annoying lol Haven't really explored this forum so this could have been answered already. But its my oem pads right? I know its not my rotors that are warpped lol cuz rotors are super hard to warp. If you have any info I'd appreciate it or a thread u can post for me to check out

 

[ejguillot]

Read this thrrad from start to finish, and you will have your answers.

 

[Slip_Angle]

Yes, OEM pads can't handle the heat.

 

[ajwklajdskla1]

Hi, all.
I just replaced all brake pads on my 19 g70 3.3T Sport @ 42500 miles.(purchased a used car with 31k miles on it)
I had vibrations near 70~80 mph but after getting new tires and wheel balance, vibration was gone. this was around @ 36000 miles. so I changed brake pads because I thought it was time to replace pads.
I am not sure these are replaced by previous owners or not but front brakes had about 0.7mm and 0.6mm left and rear brakes had 0.7mm and 0.5 mm left(I measured it with tape measure so probably not as accurate)


I replaced old ones with DFC5000 semi-metallic pads and those fit right in no issues in replacing.

However, one component of brake pad(rear, pic below) broke while I was installing it. could this be issue? I drove like 12 miles and everything seems to be ok, no noise or squeaky but brake seems somewhat grabby. (I went for a drive to break in the pads, and did 35 mph to 5 mph like 6 times and drove back home)

I also did break fluid flush using DOT 4 fluid and used about 1 L to do all. brake fluid I bought had almost clear color and fluid that came out were like a bit dark yellow so I tried to get all the old yellow fluid out till I saw clear fluid.
I did not use any kind of scanner or device to bleeding.

 

[Husky]

I believe what broke off is a dampener weight to reduce potential brake squeal. It won't affect normal operation, but it's kind of crappy that it broke off.
Did you put the hurt on it, or is it just crappy quality control by the pad manufacturer?
Otherwise sounds like you did a great job. The new pads probably are more aggressive and have more initial bite that you'll get used to. (Usually the bedding procedure is breaking from about 60mph, so you took it pretty easy, unless that was their instructions.)

 

[ajwklajdskla1]

I believe what broke off is a dampener weight to reduce potential brake squeal. It won't affect normal operation, but it's kind of crappy that it broke off.
Did you put the hurt on it, or is it just crappy quality control by the pad manufacturer?
Otherwise sounds like you did a great job. The new pads probably are more aggressive and have more initial bite that you'll get used to. (Usually the bedding procedure is breaking from about 60mph, so you took it pretty easy, unless that was their instructions.)

Thanks for the reply.
I think it was just crappy quality control. I bought thru rockauto so i will contact to see if they can send placement.
For the bedding procedure i just looked up in google and followed it as there wasnt any instructions on the new brake pads box.

 

[Volfy]

Could just be shipping damage. Doesn't take much to bump one corner to weaken or put a crack in one of them.

Btw, are you sure it's 0.6mm, not 0.6cm? That would be close to grinding on bare metal.

 

[ajwklajdskla1]

Could just be shipping damage. Doesn't take much to bump one corner to weaken or put a crack in one of them.

Btw, are you sure it's 0.6mm, not 0.6cm? That would be close to grinding on bare metal.

Ohh yea sorry i meant 0.6 cm or 6mm

 

[canucklehead604]

jason991 - sub'd for updates on how you like the DFC pads. i've been considering those for my next Re+Re.

BTW - if your pads had 6-7mm on them they had lots of life left. new pads typically come with ~10mm give or take, so you had plenty of meat left. pads are considered worn at the 2-3mm mark so you had ~50%+ remaining. perhaps you were not happy with the stock pads (dreaded pad deposit issue?) so maybe there was another reason for the swap. just wanted to mention it...

______________________________

Help support this site so it can continue supporting you!

 

[ajwklajdskla1]

jason991 - sub'd for updates on how you like the DFC pads. i've been considering those for my next Re+Re.

BTW - if your pads had 6-7mm on them they had lots of life left. new pads typically come with ~10mm give or take, so you had plenty of meat left. pads are considered worn at the 2-3mm mark so you had ~50%+ remaining. perhaps you were not happy with the stock pads (dreaded pad deposit issue?) so maybe there was another reason for the swap. just wanted to mention it...

I bought my used 19 g70 back in april and carfax didnt have any record on brake pads replacement so i thought its time to replace brake pads since i was @42500 miles.

I had no issues with stock brakes or honestly i didnt know what brake pads i had until i took those picture above because i did not have vibration issue when stopping.(i assumed previous owner replaced pads with oem pads right after the car was purchased new)

Attached pic was taken like a month ago this is when i really started to think about replacing new pads by the end of 2022.
i thought the wear indicator is almost touching the rotor..


I will update on how these dfc pads feel later but its gonna take a while as im receiving replacement for rear pads soon because dampener fell off while installation..

 

[Volfy]

If you didn't have the dreaded vibration issue, there is a chance those are the OEM Euro-Sport pads. If that is the case, I would've tried to squeeze every last mm of wear out of them. We have them on our '21 6MT Sport and I'm not changing them until the wear indicators have made contact and are hissing away. Other than generating a good amount of brake dust (which most high-performance track-oriented pad compounds tend to do), they perform brilliantly.

BTW, if DFC doesn't specify a bedding process, then it probably isn't that critical on that pad. The typical street compound usually aren't. That said, you still need to "seat" or "break in" the pads to the rotor, which is to wear the pads/rotor together so they make optimum (full) contact with each other. This is true whether you use brand new rotors or resurfaced rotors, and especially if you just replaced the pads straight onto old rotors. Depending on how even the wear surfaces are to each other, it might take up to a few hundred miles of driving and "easy" braking to seat the pads. It's important in this stage to avoid heavy braking on partially seated pads, which might create hot spots that could glaze the pad surface and be detrimental to rotor life.

 

[ajwklajdskla1]

If you didn't have the dreaded vibration issue, there is a chance those are the OEM Euro-Sport pads. If that is the case, I would've tried to squeeze every last mm of wear out of them. We have them on our '21 6MT Sport and I'm not changing them until the wear indicators have made contact and are hissing away. Other than generating a good amount of brake dust (which most high-performance track-oriented pad compounds tend to do), they perform brilliantly.

BTW, if DFC doesn't specify a bedding process, then it probably isn't that critical on that pad. The typical street compound usually aren't. That said, you still need to "seat" or "break in" the pads to the rotor, which is to wear the pads/rotor together so they make optimum (full) contact with each other. This is true whether you use brand new rotors or resurfaced rotors, and especially if you just replaced the pads straight onto old rotors. Depending on how even the wear surfaces are to each other, it might take up to a few hundred miles of driving and "easy" braking to seat the pads. It's important in this stage to avoid heavy braking on partially seated pads, which might create hot spots that could glaze the pad surface and be detrimental to rotor life.

Mine is not dynamic trim so i assumed i have ceramic pads. However, to me, the pads look like semi metallic pads because it has same color as DFC pads i bought. I could be wrong tho.
I tried googling those parts numbers from original pads i took out but i cant find any info on those.

 

[Husky]

You might hold onto them. Maybe the previous owner put good pads on? Looks like there's a lot of meat left on them.

 

[Slip_Angle]

How good are the euro spec pads? I can get them for $150 new.

 

[Husky]

How good are the euro spec pads? I can get them for $150 new.

Wow! That's a deal. I love mine.

 

[Volfy]

How good are the euro spec pads? I can get them for $150 new.

That is a superb deal. Are you sure they are the Euro-Sport brake pads? I have seen brake pad listings on Hyundai/Genesis microfiche OEM parts websites that pretty much all say "European" origin. I'm not so sure they all are the fabled Euro-Sport pads that we refer to. Because Hyundai/Genesis sourced these brake calipers from Brembo (Italy), the OEM brake pads are likely also sourced from the same supplier, mostly likely Euopean in origin. The Euro-Sport pads are a specific subset of all OEM brake pads that fit these same Brembo calipers.

That said, performance-wise I really like the brake pads that came with our G70 6MT. They are clearly different from the other OEM pads I had on the Stinger Brembos. Very gentle on the brake rotors. Ours are about 1/2 worn and all 4 rotors are still bright, smooth and shiny. This is indicative of a softer friction material compound. As such, they tend to wear faster and produce more brake dust. There are always downsides to different compounds. To get better performance, prices have to be paid in other aspects of the pad's characteristics.

 

[Slip_Angle]

Lozic in Korea can get parts for great prices. I asked him if he could get this part 58101-J5A55 and he said it was $150. I assume that's just the fronts.

Those are the euro spec, right?

 

[Volfy]

Dunno, on OEM parts websites, that P/N pulls up as fitting basically all the G70 models that come with Brembo brakes.

I have not pulled the pads out of our G70 6MT to check the P/N.

 

[Phastroh]

I had absolutely no vibrating nor pulsing on my 20 3.3 Sport however at around 18k I started getting that squeak and you let off and press again and it may squeak again or not.

Now I just hit 20k and it seems to have returned and I asked the dealer to check the pads but instead they drove it and said it did not make noise lol

I really hate to have to take off the rims to look but if I do I guess I can use a ruler to measure them but the squeak I feel like must be the wear bars. I def do not drive hard and I think my hardest brake since I had it was last week when a driver pulled into the turn lane as I was coming down and I really had to press them and still no noise or shake.

So since I barely drive much or hard is there really a way to ensure I can get these exact pads without having the dealer involved or do I now need to play the ferris wheel of pads.

I guess I will also need to have the rotors cut.

Just looking for whoever has the experience and good advice.

I was going to go with a set of the slotted and drilled for looks but I do not know anyone that has purchased a set and used them. I think I would pass on the drilled anyway and just do slotted.

I saw on ebay seller transit_auto with a brand named TEK with what they say is a standard replacement.