2015 5.0 Not Starting After Replacing Crankshaft Sensor

[dan1239]

So, I got a correlation code for the crankshaft position sensor P0019 and the vehicle would take about 6 rotations of the starter before actually starting (long crank). I decided to replace the sensor and the car started up fine for about 4 start stop cycles. Moved the car off of the lift and it sat for a little. I tried starting it to leave and it did not want to start this time. It would crank and start really roughly then die immediately after. Took it to the dealership to get some answers and they had to contact Hyundai as they couldn’t even figure it out. Hyundai said that it could be a shorted ECU as there were no codes popping up. Any idea on what could be the issue? She only has 96k miles on the clock. No issues before this other than leaking valve cover gaskets and a leaking thermostat housing.

 

[onecrappie]

New parts fail too. Return the one you put on and try another. Also check the fuel pump relay. If the CPS doesn't read, the fuel pump relay won't turn on.

 

[dan1239]

New parts fail too. Return the one you put on and try another. Also check the fuel pump relay. If the CPS doesn't read, the fuel pump relay won't turn on.

The dealership also put a new factory one in. I’ll check the relay. Thanks

 

[dan1239]

The dealership also put a new factory one in. I’ll check the relay. Thanks

New parts fail too. Return the one you put on and try another. Also check the fuel pump relay. If the CPS doesn't read, the fuel pump relay won't turn on.

I checked the relay, it’s fine. Still nothing.

 

[onecrappie]

Can you hear the fuel pump click on?

If not, then you need to find the sensors that must be made to activate it. These can be the cam position sensor, crank position sensor, gear shift position (park) sensor. There are usually several devices in series, if any one fails the motor will turn over, but you won't get fuel. Unplug each until you hear the fuel pump kick on (a tick and slight whine).

 

[dan1239]

Can you hear the fuel pump click on?

If not, then you need to find the sensors that must be made to activate it. These can be the cam position sensor, crank position sensor, gear shift position (park) sensor. There are usually several devices in series, if any one fails the motor will turn over, but you won't get fuel. Unplug each until you hear the fuel pump kick on (a tick and slight whine).

I’ll try this when I can. Thanks for the help!

 

[dan1239]

Can you hear the fuel pump click on?

If not, then you need to find the sensors that must be made to activate it. These can be the cam position sensor, crank position sensor, gear shift position (park) sensor. There are usually several devices in series, if any one fails the motor will turn over, but you won't get fuel. Unplug each until you hear the fuel pump kick on (a tick and slight whine).

Do I do this while the car is in the on position or while trying to start the vehicle?

 

[joegr]

Do I do this while the car is in the on position or while trying to start the vehicle?

In the run position, the fuel pump should come on for a second or two to pressurize the fuel system, then shut down due to the engine not turning. It will be easier to hear if the starter isn't going, so just press the start button twice, without your foot on the gas pedal. (first press is accessory, second press is run)

 

[dan1239]

In the run position, the fuel pump should come on for a second or two to pressurize the fuel system, then shut down due to the engine not turning. It will be easier to hear if the starter isn't going, so just press the start button twice, without your foot on the gas pedal. (first press is accessory, second press is run)

I’m sorry, bare with me, I unplugged each camshaft sensor and then listened for the fuel pump in the vehicle or is it outside the vehicle? I tried unplugging one then plugging it back in and then unplugged the next one. Then I tried just unplugging each one without replugging them back in. Also I have no idea where the gear shift sensor is located.

 

[joegr]

I’m sorry, bare with me, I unplugged each camshaft sensor and then listened for the fuel pump in the vehicle or is it outside the vehicle? I tried unplugging one then plugging it back in and then unplugged the next one. Then I tried just unplugging each one without replugging them back in. Also I have no idea where the gear shift sensor is located.

I don't know why you are unplugging the camshaft sensors.
The electric fuel pump is in the fuel tank. You would best hear it at the back of the car, on the outside. Due to the quick shutoff time, it would be best if you listened while someone else pushed the button. The neutral safety switch should be on the side of the transmission. (No offense, but if you have to ask, you probably won't be able to check it anyway...)

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[dan1239]

I don't know why you are unplugging the camshaft sensors.
The electric fuel pump is in the fuel tank. You would best hear it at the back of the car, on the outside. Due to the quick shutoff time, it would be best if you listened while someone else pushed the button. The neutral safety switch should be on the side of the transmission. (No offense, but if you have to ask, you probably won't be able to check it anyway...)

Can you hear the fuel pump click on?

If not, then you need to find the sensors that must be made to activate it. These can be the cam position sensor, crank position sensor, gear shift position (park) sensor. There are usually several devices in series, if any one fails the motor will turn over, but you won't get fuel. Unplug each until you hear the fuel pump kick on (a tick and slight whine).

I need to figure this out because no one else including the dealership can. I do have some knowledge of cars but not on this new of a vehicle. Also I am extremely stressed and frustrated because this is my only car and I need it to get to work. “onecrappie” said to try to unplug them because it would cause the fuel pump to not engage which I would assume makes some sort of sense. I am technically stranded and alone so I don’t think I can have another person help push the button.

 

[onecrappie]

Ok bud, plug everything back in. Then do this in order.

Make sure car is in run (start button twice). Listen for the fuel pump to come on to pressurize the fuel system. Like the other person said, it will only go for 3-5 seconds. If you don't hear it, then there is a sensor that isn't making.

IF you don't hear the fuel pump come on, then you want to unplug the each of those sensors one at a time. Unplug, listen for fuel pump (or the relay to click). If it doesn't come on, plug that sensor back in and go to the next one. Do the same thing. Once you get to the "bad" sensor and unplug it, you'll hear the fuel pump kick on.

The vehicle won't start without fuel. Fuel pump won't come in unless the car is in in park/neutral AND all those sensors read.

IF the fuel pump does come on, then we'll need to troubleshoot elsewhere.

BTW, how do you know the fuel pump relay is good? How did you test?

If someone has a wiring schematic, I can go through and find all the sensors to tell you what needs to be connected.

Electrical gremlins are a b*tch. Even for experienced mechanics.

 

[carguy75]

So, I got a correlation code for the crankshaft position sensor P0019 and the vehicle would take about 6 rotations of the starter before actually starting (long crank). I decided to replace the sensor and the car started up fine for about 4 start stop cycles. Moved the car off of the lift and it sat for a little. I tried starting it to leave and it did not want to start this time. It would crank and start really roughly then die immediately after. Took it to the dealership to get some answers and they had to contact Hyundai as they couldn’t even figure it out. Hyundai said that it could be a shorted ECU as there were no codes popping up. Any idea on what could be the issue? She only has 96k miles on the clock. No issues before this other than leaking valve cover gaskets and a leaking thermostat housing.

Well, my "guess" could be a bad ECU if you did not disconnect the battery before changing the crank sensor. Sometimes a circuit is still charged on a sensor even if the ignition is switched off and can short a module terminal when a new component is connected if the battery is still connected to the circuit.

I would first try to disconnect the battery and then reconnect the battery after 15 minutes or so to see if that may clear any electrical glitches in the ECU. If not; then I would let an automotive electrician troubleshoot the wiring going into the ECU for any open circuits.

 

[cbarrien]

I'm outta tackle the starter on this puppy, alternator too - that'll be easy, remove the fan and shroud, and use a tow strap to keep the rad hose outta the way and u bolt and maneuver the alt out, no need to drain ur coolant. The starter though I've been putting off knowing Itll be DREADDING to work on, unless u got any pointers?