2015 5.0 Reliability To 200K

[Suburbazine]

...and then I come in the thread and mention that I had the main bearings wiped out and and a seized exhaust valve at 84,000 miles. Now on engine #2.

The bearings were apparently a slow death item, they didn't get scored or anything, just lost tolerance until the oil pressure couldn't keep up. I do NOT recommend ever running 5w-20 even if Hyundai lists it as compatible. The "unofficial analysis" from a Hyundai engineer was that the bearings failed due to insufficient oil viscosity during extended engine operating hours, as I drove the car for upwards of 8 hours a day at the time. If running more than an hour or two continuously, I would recommend only using 5w-30.

 

[carguy75]

...and then I come in the thread and mention that I had the main bearings wiped out and and a seized exhaust valve at 84,000 miles. Now on engine #2.

The bearings were apparently a slow death item, they didn't get scored or anything, just lost tolerance until the oil pressure couldn't keep up. I do NOT recommend ever running 5w-20 even if Hyundai lists it as compatible. The "unofficial analysis" from a Hyundai engineer was that the bearings failed due to insufficient oil viscosity during extended engine operating hours, as I drove the car for upwards of 8 hours a day at the time. If running more than an hour or two continuously, I would recommend only using 5w-30.

That sucks.

Hence why I only use 5w-30 oil in this engine. Even the owners manual suggest that 5w-30 oil protects the engine better while 5w-20 is best for better fuel economy.

5w-20 seems too light of an oil for this engine for long term reliability, unless you drive the 5.0 very lightly without much full throttle high rpm drives.

Rule of thumb; if the owner manual gives a choice of oil weights based on better warm weather protection or fuel economy; go with the thicker option if you plan on keeping the car for long time.

 

[Kraig Wilkinson]

...and then I come in the thread and mention that I had the main bearings wiped out and and a seized exhaust valve at 84,000 miles. Now on engine #2.

The bearings were apparently a slow death item, they didn't get scored or anything, just lost tolerance until the oil pressure couldn't keep up. I do NOT recommend ever running 5w-20 even if Hyundai lists it as compatible. The "unofficial analysis" from a Hyundai engineer was that the bearings failed due to insufficient oil viscosity during extended engine operating hours, as I drove the car for upwards of 8 hours a day at the time. If running more than an hour or two continuously, I would recommend only using 5w-30.

Thanks for the info.
The knowledge on this forum is outstanding.

 

[skipgen]

Thanks for the info.
The knowledge on this forum is outstanding.

Yes - it is!

 

[5.0KDM]

, I would recommend only using 5w-30.

Thank you sir! I changed my oil today and went with your recommendation

 

[smirn0ff]

mine is 3.8 fully loaded European version because I buy it new here in Bulgaria where I live.
until now I have 200,000+ kilometers for 7.5 years and everything is going well.
major repairs were:
- changing front right upper control arm suspension, I don't know how it fails at 45000km..
- and on around 150k I have changed the fuel pump control module which is in the trunk(when it fails the PSB warning goes still).

for that mileage the oil was changed firstly on 30,000 kilometers, because all service needed was covered by dealership.. after that when it runs out of warranty, after 5th year, I started to change it on 8 to 15k(depends how dirty oil gets)
transmission fluid changed on every 90,000 kilometers along with spark plugs and service engine belts.
until now differential oil and transaxle oil is changed on 120,000 kilometers.
coolant was changed firstly on around 120,000 km and after that it changed on every year or 30k kilometers.
brake fluid is changed on every two years no matter of mileage.
every year the AC is serviced.
on around 75k kilometers my brake pads are for change, I am changing brake pads with rotors every time, front and rear.
for all this kilometres passed I don't feel huge change in the engine how is working, if we speculating about the carbon buildup, also transmission is changing gears almost perfectly.
car feel and drives very nice, also almost no squeks and sounds from interior. car is very good autobahn driver, I love it

 

[Kraig Wilkinson]

mine is 3.8 fully loaded European version because I buy it new here in Bulgaria where I live.
until now I have 200,000+ kilometers for 7.5 years and everything is going well.
major repairs were:
- changing front right upper control arm suspension, I don't know how it fails at 45000km..
- and on around 150k I have changed the fuel pump control module which is in the trunk(when it fails the PSB warning goes still).

for that mileage the oil was changed firstly on 30,000 kilometers, because all service needed was covered by dealership.. after that when it runs out of warranty, after 5th year, I started to change it on 8 to 15k(depends how dirty oil gets)
transmission fluid changed on every 90,000 kilometers along with spark plugs and service engine belts.
until now differential oil and transaxle oil is changed on 120,000 kilometers.
coolant was changed firstly on around 120,000 km and after that it changed on every year or 30k kilometers.
brake fluid is changed on every two years no matter of mileage.
every year the AC is serviced.
on around 75k kilometers my brake pads are for change, I am changing brake pads with rotors every time, front and rear.
for all this kilometres passed I don't feel huge change in the engine how is working, if we speculating about the carbon buildup, also transmission is changing gears almost perfectly.
car feel and drives very nice, also almost no squeks and sounds from interior. car is very good autobahn driver, I love it

Servicing a vehicle before the manufacturer states is a good thing.
Much ,much cheaper than hard parts and down time.

 

[smirn0ff]

Servicing a vehicle before the manufacturer states is a good thing.
Much ,much cheaper than hard parts and down time.

the only thing I dont get until now is how I was encuraged by the dealer to service first 120-130km in a huge 20-30km periods of changing the oil...
But despite the first high oil changes, the engine almost dont touch the oil.. compared to the german cars, it doesnt even touch it
for 7.5k km there is not more than milimeter missing on the dipstick from the MAX

 

[skipgen]

I generally change my oil every 3000 - 4000 miles. Had valve cover gaskets replaced ~ 90k & my mechanic said the top end looked spotless.

 

[HG2015]

Hello All, Just curious if anyone has any real world experience of a 2015 Genesis (esp 5.0) lasting to 200k. I am coming from driving Toyota Avalons for the past 20 years and have never had to change an engine, transmission, AC unit, or hardly anything else, all of them lasted well past 200k miles (I heard my old 95 Avalon went past 300k miles by the person who purchased it from me), and I got oil changes well past recommended timing, (10-15k). I don't want to set the bar too high, and the 2015 is a thing of beauty with lots of great features, but I hear people on here talking about transmission changes on these models like it is a normal thing and it shocked me a bit. The other thing I noticed reading these forums is nobody seems to know how these cars actually perform past like 150k miles, all of the comments seem to be from people with less than 100k miles. Based on my typical usage (based on the Avalon) I would like this car to last to 200k miles, if I have to do regular oil changes every 5k miles, no problem, but I don't know that we even know it that is enough since nobody is sharing that experience of the car lasting that long. Is this car basically expected to die at 150k miles? Every time I got rid of my avalon, it was because of some cosmetic reason, I was just getting tired of it, never because it just quit working.

Ok I just passed 152k miles I'm no car guy but here are the nuisance stuff I can remember...

Shifting problems where the heat would get stuck and it wouldn't shift into drive or wouldn't go into park.

The start/stop button malfunctioned which caused an embarrassing problem of not being able to turn the car off. Dealer replaced now it's fine.

Starter went out and it cost me $1k. Car wouldn't start but now it's fine.

Backup camera went out a few years ago. Haven't replaced due to the next item on this list

The last thing here is something I'm going to write a separate post about. After all the other repairs I finally figured I want the backup camera fixed. It's about 850 but when I pull up to drop it off my guy at the dealership makes a face. Says he heard something weird with the engine, one every 3 to 4 months it would stutter for a minute but never cut off. But this time my guy had someone take a look and says the engine won't least much longer. Told me not to fix the camera and start getting my money right for a new car soon. Disappointed I check dealer prices and no one wants to give me more than 6500 for it . I get a second opinion from a local mechanic and he says the car engine seems okay but he doesn't think it's about to go. That was 6 months ago. I haven't had any major issues with it sense

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[5.0KDM]

Backup camera went out a few years ago. Haven't replaced due to the next item on this list

Check your trunk harness 1st. Its a known issue.

Says he heard something weird with the engine, one every 3 to 4 months it would stutter for a minute but never cut off. But this time my guy had someone take a look and says the engine won't least much longer.

What did he hear?

 

[Suburbazine]

Well, sadly mine has found the end of the road early. Transmission failed at 106,000 miles, and now I'm debating on whether to try selling it as-is or if I should spend $4000 to replace it with an equally old transmission and then sell it. Apparently the early A8TR1 used in the 5.0 Genesis has a common issue with burning out either the underdrive (1-4) or the overdrive (5-8) clutch packs, in my case the overdrive pack failed so I only have the bottom 4 gears and reverse left.

Currently negotiating with a dealer for a pristine 2019 Stinger GT2 still under warranty, so I will be moving away from the Genesis line for the time being.

 

[carguy75]

Well, sadly mine has found the end of the road early. Transmission failed at 106,000 miles, and now I'm debating on whether to try selling it as-is or if I should spend $4000 to replace it with an equally old transmission and then sell it. Apparently the early A8TR1 used in the 5.0 Genesis has a common issue with burning out either the underdrive (1-4) or the overdrive (5-8) clutch packs, in my case the overdrive pack failed so I only have the bottom 4 gears and reverse left.

Currently negotiating with a dealer for a pristine 2019 Stinger GT2 still under warranty, so I will be moving away from the Genesis line for the time being.

That sucks. Your Genesis only have a little over 100k miles. Too soon for a transmission clutch failure in a modern transmission.

Good luck on your new Stinger!!!!!


I was concerned about the transmission lifespan in my 2015 Genesis 5.0 due to the solenoid TSB and the relatively untested long-term durability of the transmission due to a small number owners that go on record as keeping the Genesis pass 100k miles.

It seems the upkeep cost for the Genesis after 100k miles can be just as expensive(and as difficult) as the luxury car brands the company tries to undercut in sales. However, I will give Hyundai/Genesis credit for standing by their products for 10 years of warranty coverage. The other luxury brands still only give you about 5 years of coverage.

 

[skipgen]

I'm relatively confident that the engine could last close to 200K... However, I'm not confident on the rest of it. Especially considering how downhill the condition of mine has gone in the last 10k or so miles.

 

[Suburbazine]

I'm relatively confident that the engine could last close to 200K... However, I'm not confident on the rest of it. Especially considering how downhill the condition of mine has gone in the last 10k or so miles.

The interior of mine has begun to show accelerated wear as well. The steering wheel is chalky, the door armrest is cracking, the rubber toggle switches are breaking, etc.

 

[skipgen]

The interior of mine has begun to show accelerated wear as well. The steering wheel is chalky, the door armrest is cracking, the rubber toggle switches are breaking, etc.

My interior is OK for the most part - my items are some of the other "usual suspects".... Broken plastic gears in folding mirrors, perishing molding around 3rd brake light, disintegrated trunk button cover, window trim turning grey, malfunctioning auto wipers and my personal favorite - Transmission 3rd & 5th gear shift solenoids performing erratically. To be fair, the last item can go weeks without issue but then misbehaves for a bit. Changing fluid / filter pan helped but did not eradicate the problem. Always shifts perfectly if I mat the go pedal to the floor - however, the local constabulary takes a dim view of that practice.

Oh, one more thing - I've got a dead front parking sensor!

Other than the above, I'm a happy camper... Engine seems just fine!

 

[Suburbazine]

It's worth noting that my Genesis is from the first 3 months of production and has a different transmission control unit than the models produced after the first 3 months. It also cannot be updated, which means that the car is stuck finding a transmission from other 3 month Genesis production cars. This is also apparently why the speedometer was off by 10% all the time with stock tires. I've also found some suggestions after the fact that the Genesis A8TR1 in tiptronic (manual shift) mode can put more torque through the clutches than they're actually rated for, especially if you don't downshift while accelerating.

You could call me a sucker for punishment, but the Stinger GT2 AWD also uses the A8TR1... but with even further revamped programming and internal hardware. Don't tell it I'm putting a JB4 on it

 

[smirn0ff]

mine with the interior and exterior is just fine, this december will be 8 years, but maybe there is a difference in production for Europe and US.
Only problem is the wear of the steering wheel, which is normal, and the wear of the driver seat around the lumbal support, because I am heavy guy.
All internal trim is in almost new condition.

 

[skipgen]

It's worth noting that my Genesis is from the first 3 months of production and has a different transmission control unit than the models produced after the first 3 months. It also cannot be updated, which means that the car is stuck finding a transmission from other 3 month Genesis production cars. This is also apparently why the speedometer was off by 10% all the time with stock tires. I've also found some suggestions after the fact that the Genesis A8TR1 in tiptronic (manual shift) mode can put more torque through the clutches than they're actually rated for, especially if you don't downshift while accelerating.

You could call me a sucker for punishment, but the Stinger GT2 AWD also uses the A8TR1... but with even further revamped programming and internal hardware. Don't tell it I'm putting a JB4 on it

My next car will have a ZF 8 spd... I'm thinking Alfa Romeo Giulia - want something a bit smaller.

 

[smirn0ff]

My next car will have a ZF 8 spd... I'm thinking Alfa Romeo Giulia - want something a bit smaller.

If you get Giulia, get the Quadrifoglio with the 2.9 liter Twin-Turbo V6 this is insane car