Adding powered subwoofer to Lexicon system

[Minsc]

I am generally happy with the sound from the Lexicon system after some time spent tuning it to various sources. One area of deficit is I wish it had a little more thump in the sub-base range. I have a Rockford Fosgate P300-10, which is a 10-inch subwoofer in a sealed box with a built-in amplifier that I had in my 13 Cadenza. In the Cadenza, I simply spliced into the signal wires for the factory 8-inch sub in the package tray, and it worked flawlessly.

Anyone tried and succeeded adding a powered subwoofer to the G70? I figure I can just get the signal from the factory amplifier, which I believe is in the trunk on the driver side?

Thanks!

 

[Gramreaper]

I am generally happy with the sound from the Lexicon system after some time spent tuning it to various sources. One area of deficit is I wish it had a little more thump in the sub-base range. I have a Rockford Fosgate P300-10, which is a 10-inch subwoofer in a sealed box with a built-in amplifier that I had in my 13 Cadenza. In the Cadenza, I simply spliced into the signal wires for the factory 8-inch sub in the package tray, and it worked flawlessly.

Anyone tried and succeeded adding a powered subwoofer to the G70? I figure I can just get the signal from the factory amplifier, which I believe is in the trunk on the driver side?

Thanks!

I don't think there's much experience with people trying this. Be the pioneer and let us know!

 

[Aquineas]

First of all, you should have asked Boo first! Baldur's Gate references aside, you really shouldn't have to splice any wires if you use something called a line-out converter; they come with wires that you can attach to your factory speaker connectors. I haven't done this personally, it is how I have my aftermarket subwoofers installed (I usually have them professionally installed because I figure they know a lot more than I). But if you want to try it yourself, you could try watching a video on it.

 

[otis604]

I agree, the G70 needed a bit lower bass so I added an Rockford Fosgate P300-12 Punch to my car. I had it professionally installed because I did not want to damage the car or mess up the interior by accident. Sounds awesome but I have no idea how they connected it to this car but it took them about 2.5 hours to do. That being said, the car now sounds awesome

 

[ncrashb]

I have installed a shallow 10" 600w sub in a custom built box in my G70.
I mounted the amp to a piece of wood we cut to size to fit where the meth kit usually gets mounted under the spare tire, behind the battery, vertically.
Thankfully the battery is right there to connecting power was simple. The only wire I ran to the front of the car was the bass boost remote control which is optional.
Tapped my signal from the OEM subwoofer left & right wires located in the rear drivers side fender/bumper accessed via the trunk.
I believe I posted more info and photos on another thread here and/or in the Facebook G70 Owners group if you're interested.

 

[reek]

Just finished adding a 12 inch dual voice coil sub to my 2023 G70 Lexicon system tonight. Definitely sounds much better, more presence. still have to play with the settings (cross over, gain, etc). not into booming bass and I like tight accurate base so I've always gone sealed box with a lower box volume. I made a custom box with about 1.1 sq ft volume.

the wiring is off the red harness on the OEM amp. get to it from the driver side access panel in the trunk next to the manual fuel door release. I did one channel, grey is + and yellow is - . spliced that onto an RCA cord. fed that into a speaker level input on my amp. don't see a need for an LOC. Power and ground was easy since the battery is right there under the spare. have an amp that has the speaker signal as the on signal so no ACC power needed. one of the easiests sub installs I've done in a long time. definitely worth it, IMHO

 

[ncrashb]

Just finished adding a 12 inch dual voice coil sub to my 2023 G70 Lexicon system tonight. Definitely sounds much better, more presence. still have to play with the settings (cross over, gain, etc). not into booming bass and I like tight accurate base so I've always gone sealed box with a lower box volume. I made a custom box with about 1.1 sq ft volume.

the wiring is off the red harness on the OEM amp. get to it from the driver side access panel in the trunk next to the manual fuel door release. I did one channel, grey is + and yellow is - . spliced that onto an RCA cord. fed that into a speaker level input on my amp. don't see a need for an LOC. Power and ground was easy since the battery is right there under the spare. have an amp that has the speaker signal as the on signal so no ACC power needed. one of the easiests sub installs I've done in a long time. definitely worth it, IMHO

Nice! Right on.
Only tapped one signal? Might only get one channel’s worth of sound then but not sure if the oem amp sends mono or stereo signals to the oem subs.

Careful with the auto-on. My amp has the same but I found that the amp wouldn’t shut off. Didn’t cause any issues for a long time, but then after 2-3 years I started to get “battery drainage” warnings when starting the car now n then, and then one day my battery was shot. Replaced it with a new one, new one got drained too. Replaced that again and unhooked my sub, been 100% ever since.
Just ordered more fuse taps and will be installing a remote turn-on wire once it’s warm enough outside to avoid this issue again. Hope you have no issues, but yeah there’s my warning lol.

Edit;
Here’s another thread with further info on the sub topic:

Sub and Amp Install

Here it is. Sorry I didn't see this message for a while. So.. dumb question Are you saying you just cut those sub wires and then added wires that run to the powered sub (in my case a powered sub)?

genesisowners.com

 

[Pyrosaxplayer]

I love booming bass. My previous car (07 mustang) has 2 Sundown Audio SA-12 DVC 4ohm wired to a Hifonics Brutus 2000.1D at 1ohm. Pulled 140dbs.

My G70 3.3t SP has 2 Sundown Audio SA-8 DVC 2ohm wired to that same amp but @ 2ohms for 1000w.

It produces a lot of bass. Acoustics is perfect but I miss my boom I had.

However, y'all notice any annoying rattles from our rear decks? I gotta pry that rear deck off and figure out how to minimize it.

 

[ncrashb]

I love booming bass. My previous car (07 mustang) has 2 Sundown Audio SA-12 DVC 4ohm wired to a Hifonics Brutus 2000.1D at 1ohm. Pulled 140dbs.

My G70 3.3t SP has 2 Sundown Audio SA-8 DVC 2ohm wired to that same amp but @ 2ohms for 1000w.

It produces a lot of bass. Acoustics is perfect but I miss my boom I had.

However, y'all notice any annoying rattles from our rear decks? I gotta pry that rear deck off and figure out how to minimize it.

My rear deck has been good so far! The front centre console and sunroof however are annoying, but not even from the bass lol

 

[Pyrosaxplayer]

My rear deck has been good so far! The front centre console and sunroof however are annoying, but not even from the bass lol

So far, no issues there lol *knock on wood*

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[reek]

Nice! Right on.
Only tapped one signal? Might only get one channel’s worth of sound then but not sure if the oem amp sends mono or stereo signals to the oem subs.

Careful with the auto-on. My amp has the same but I found that the amp wouldn’t shut off. Didn’t cause any issues for a long time, but then after 2-3 years I started to get “battery drainage” warnings when starting the car now n then, and then one day my battery was shot. Replaced it with a new one, new one got drained too. Replaced that again and unhooked my sub, been 100% ever since.
Just ordered more fuse taps and will be installing a remote turn-on wire once it’s warm enough outside to avoid this issue again. Hope you have no issues, but yeah there’s my warning lol.

Edit;
Here’s another thread with further info on the sub topic:

Sub and Amp Install

Here it is. Sorry I didn't see this message for a while. So.. dumb question Are you saying you just cut those sub wires and then added wires that run to the powered sub (in my case a powered sub)?

genesisowners.com

I've had the same problem in the past with the auto on. my paranoia got the better of me, so I broke down today and wired an ACC signal from the blue harness off the OEM amp. plus, when the volume drops, the auto on signal must not be strong enough because the amp shuts off. anyway, its nice having a pinout diagram!

in terms of the mono vs 2 channel sub, there doesn't seem to be much advantage to running 2 channels for a close space sub application. I think the OEM is mono to each sub. but there's two subs. so not sure if one sub is left channel one is right channel or just split a mono signal. Plus less splicing work. either way, sounds great!

 

[reek]

I love booming bass. My previous car (07 mustang) has 2 Sundown Audio SA-12 DVC 4ohm wired to a Hifonics Brutus 2000.1D at 1ohm. Pulled 140dbs.

My G70 3.3t SP has 2 Sundown Audio SA-8 DVC 2ohm wired to that same amp but @ 2ohms for 1000w.

It produces a lot of bass. Acoustics is perfect but I miss my boom I had.

However, y'all notice any annoying rattles from our rear decks? I gotta pry that rear deck off and figure out how to minimize it.

I wrapped all my wiring in foam conduit to avoid that and obviously covered my sub box with felt carpet. but still, I initially had a rattle but it turned out the fold down rear seat wasn't fully latched. after fixed that, no more rattles even at high volumes. knock on wood.....

 

[Marshallg70]

I’ve got a 10 inch box in my 24 and the back package tray area rattles like crazy. I’ve Dino the trunk and underside of the floor, but the rattling is still driving me nuts. Seems to be coming more from the rear passenger side and the rear driver.

 

[Marshallg70]

I have installed a shallow 10" 600w sub in a custom built box in my G70.
I mounted the amp to a piece of wood we cut to size to fit where the meth kit usually gets mounted under the spare tire, behind the battery, vertically.
Thankfully the battery is right there to connecting power was simple. The only wire I ran to the front of the car was the bass boost remote control which is optional.
Tapped my signal from the OEM subwoofer left & right wires located in the rear drivers side fender/bumper accessed via the trunk.
I believe I posted more info and photos on another thread here and/or in the Facebook G70 Owners group if you're interested.

Do you know of anyone that is selling a custom box for one 10 inch sub? I’ve only seen the ones for the dual 12

 

[GV70Electrified2024]

Do you know of anyone that is selling a custom box for one 10 inch sub? I’ve only seen the ones for the dual 12

I went to an audio shop and had them build me a custom box with the back of the enclosure angled the same angle as the rear seats. It fits back there perfectly, and utilizes the trunk space well. I have 2 10" Morels in a sealed enclosure and because the box has rear angles, it only sticks out 4 inches passed the rear seat. I have changed the grills because the ones in the picture look a little silly.

 

[Alfer]

If anyone isn't looking at losing a bunch of space, just go this route

Hideaway Powered Subwoofer | KICKER®

KICKER produces high-performance car audio, vehicle specific solutions, marine audio, home and personal audio, and power sports products since 1973.

www.kicker.com

 

[orange260z]

Just finished adding a 12 inch dual voice coil sub to my 2023 G70 Lexicon system tonight. Definitely sounds much better, more presence. still have to play with the settings (cross over, gain, etc). not into booming bass and I like tight accurate base so I've always gone sealed box with a lower box volume. I made a custom box with about 1.1 sq ft volume.

the wiring is off the red harness on the OEM amp. get to it from the driver side access panel in the trunk next to the manual fuel door release. I did one channel, grey is + and yellow is - . spliced that onto an RCA cord. fed that into a speaker level input on my amp. don't see a need for an LOC. Power and ground was easy since the battery is right there under the spare. have an amp that has the speaker signal as the on signal so no ACC power needed. one of the easiests sub installs I've done in a long time. definitely worth it, IMHO

I was reading this thread and was hoping @reek or someone else with a 2023 G70 could help me.

I was following this Stinger sub install - the pinout list he included was the same as this one 2022 G70 Lexicon Pinout, but the wire colours are not the same in those locations.

I see that @reek used the same pins #1 & 16 as the Stinger guy, but with gray and yellow wires vs red & blue in the Stinger pics as well as those posted by others.

Are you confident that those are the sub #2 wires? Are the ones next to those (pins #2 & 17, brown and (can't remember))?? how did you connect, did you use posi-tap, scotch lock, or splice? what gauge are the factory wires?

thanks!!

 

[GV70Electrified2024]

I was reading this thread and was hoping @reek or someone else with a 2023 G70 could help me.

I was following this Stinger sub install - the pinout list he included was the same as this one 2022 G70 Lexicon Pinout, but the wire colours are not the same in those locations.

I see that @reek used the same pins #1 & 16 as the Stinger guy, but with gray and yellow wires vs red & blue in the Stinger pics as well as those posted by others.

Are you confident that those are the sub #2 wires? Are the ones next to those (pins #2 & 17, brown and (can't remember))?? how did you connect, did you use posi-tap, scotch lock, or splice? what gauge are the factory wires?

thanks!!

Just a thought if you can’t get an answer, I went to a local stereo shop and they printed out the pin out for 2024 gv70 and electric. I thought no one would have access to it but some stereos shops have access to info that isn’t available online. I offered him money and he said don’t worry about it.

 

[orange260z]

Just a thought if you can’t get an answer, I went to a local stereo shop and they printed out the pin out for 2024 gv70 and electric. I thought no one would have access to it but some stereos shops have access to info that isn’t available online. I offered him money and he said don’t worry about it.

Thanks, I ended up going to the place I bought the LC1i from, and they were able to pull up the wire colours corresponding to the pinouts... and they did the splices for me too! They recommended against using the ACC wire for remote turn-on - they said that it can send a thump/pulse through the sub. They suggested leaving the LOC on " the default GTO signal sense", and try "Audio sense" only if the former doesn't work.

I went home, finished up all the connections, and I've now got a working sub. I dialed up the gain on the LC1i to the point of the "Maximized" light turning on, and then back a bit. The gain on the sub amp is almost at the minimum level. I still need to play around with the gains as well as the low-pass cutoff (it's at 80Hz now). Even with the seats up, this sub can produce almost unbearable SPLs in the car. I will need to look into some dynamat or similar as I'm getting serious buzzing/rattling from the rear deck.

For future reference, my car is a 2023 G70 3.3T AWD SP, and I've installed a JL Audio ACP112LG-TW1 Microsub+ 12" amplified ported subwoofer unit with a Audiocontrol LC1i active line out converter, using the Knuconceptz KOL-AK8 OFC 8 gauge amp wiring kit. My signal is sourced from pins 1 & 16 (brown & white wires) and 2 & 17 (gray & yellow wires) on the red amp connector. I mounted the LOC on the amp end of the sub, and am running the power and ground for this from the sub P&G cables. The sub is getting the remote turn on signal from the LOC. I have L&R speaker wire running from the splice to the LC1i, and RCA between the LOC and the sub. I need to get some shorter RCAs.

 

[GV70Electrified2024]

Thanks, I ended up going to the place I bought the LC1i from, and they were able to pull up the wire colours corresponding to the pinouts... and they did the splices for me too! They recommended against using the ACC wire for remote turn-on - they said that it can send a thump/pulse through the sub. They suggested leaving the LOC on " the default GTO signal sense", and try "Audio sense" only if the former doesn't work.

I went home, finished up all the connections, and I've now got a working sub. I dialed up the gain on the LC1i to the point of the "Maximized" light turning on, and then back a bit. The gain on the sub amp is almost at the minimum level. I still need to play around with the gains as well as the low-pass cutoff (it's at 80Hz now). Even with the seats up, this sub can produce almost unbearable SPLs in the car. I will need to look into some dynamat or similar as I'm getting serious buzzing/rattling from the rear deck.

For future reference, my car is a 2023 G70 3.3T AWD SP, and I've installed a JL Audio ACP112LG-TW1 Microsub+ 12" amplified ported subwoofer unit with a Audiocontrol LC1i active line out converter, using the Knuconceptz KOL-AK8 OFC 8 gauge amp wiring kit. My signal is sourced from pins 1 & 16 (brown & white wires) and 2 & 17 (gray & yellow wires) on the red amp connector. I mounted the LOC on the amp end of the sub, and am running the power and ground for this from the sub P&G cables. The sub is getting the remote turn on signal from the LOC. I have L&R speaker wire running from the splice to the LC1i, and RCA between the LOC and the sub. I'll add some pics later.

Great news and awesome setup! If you have any issues with LCI like I did (I had the lci2 pro), get the kicker keyloc. I just couldnt the audiocontrol to work right at different volumes. the output was unbearable to be honest. the kicker keyloc is a game changer and can actually help you tap the correct wires in the future if you're unable to get a pin out. i would say the audiocontrol is probably a higher quality products, but the kicker is a lot smarter and will get you a flat, uncolored, signal from you OEM speaker cable.