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Hi...my 2009 Genesis is in the shop with similar issues at 42K miles. The left bank lifters were changed at 38K miles. Helped the occassional ticking...but still ocassionally it would lifter click upon start both cold and hot start conditions. The dealer had misfiring codes this time so they checked deeper...the left bank oil control valve to the cam phasers was bad. They are waiting for the part now...3-5 days!! Come on Hyundai...parts should be avaliable overnight...not 3-5 days!! Get with it.Car is in the Shop now we will see what they come ujp with.
Hi...my 2009 Genesis is in the shop with similar issues at 42K miles. The left bank lifters were changed at 38K miles. Helped the occassional ticking...but still ocassionally it would lifter click upon start both cold and hot start conditions. The dealer had misfiring codes this time so they checked deeper...the left bank oil control valve to the cam phasers was bad. They are waiting for the part now...3-5 days!! Come on Hyundai...parts should be avaliable overnight...not 3-5 days!! Get with it.
Hope this solves the problem. I like to car and am considering a 2013 R spec as the replacement.
Update: the cam phaser oil control valve was replaced and seemed OK for a day. Then it hit again....some symptoms...mis-fires below 1500 RPM. Did not want to risk engine damage...dealer had it flat bed towed to the dealership. It sure seems like the engine ECU that controls the cam phasers is either getting bad cam position feedback...or....the ECU is defective. Either way the dealer is going to dig deeper on Monday. I will advise the outcome when more is known.
Update #3 as of Sat 10-Dec-2011. DEaler guys are still waiting on parts. It is supposed to be ready by next Tuesday 13-Dec-2011///we shall see. I have called and talked to Hyundai "care center". I asked to talk to someone who is technically competent, but to no avail. These folks are pleasant enough but simply quote the script and offer condolences for the problem encountered. I went up the food chain to supervisor level and strongly requested to have the region service guy call me to discuss. He finally did and was very, very rude and unhelpful. Could not answer any technical questions and refused to discuss the issues...he told me to talk to the dealer. This guy needs to go live under a rock and never be allowed to insult customers again. My dealer is a friend whose people are doing everything possible to resolve and correct the issues...but...they are at the mercy of Hyundai Techs who seem to not be able to find the root causes of my issues. The dealer is holding up their end of the deal but Hyundai is not in my opinion. ARE YOU LISTENING HYUNDAI??Update #2 as of 7-Dec-2011: The dealer Tech checked codes and had some new ones. After the tech confered with Hyundai Tech folks...they concluded to change the left bank intake cam phaser and the chain tensioner for same. Frankly...I don't think this is going to cure the problem. It seems more like a control or position feedback / control issue. We shall see. I am losing faith in Hyundai Tech Service to diagnose and cure the problems. If they do not get it this time....I am going to start action to have this car replaced as a lemon. I am an engineer and 30+ year member of SAE. I've developed engines for years. The Hyundai folks have not been able to answer the questions to my satisfaction. It sure seems like they are throwing darts. The local dealer guys are at the mercy of the Hyundai techs. The dealer guys are just parts changers with very little diagnostic skills to find root causes and solve the problems. Very frustrating.
Update #3 as of Sat 10-Dec-2011. DEaler guys are still waiting on parts. It is supposed to be ready by next Tuesday 13-Dec-2011///we shall see. I have called and talked to Hyundai "care center". I asked to talk to someone who is technically competent, but to no avail. These folks are pleasant enough but simply quote the script and offer condolences for the problem encountered. I went up the food chain to supervisor level and strongly requested to have the region service guy call me to discuss. He finally did and was very, very rude and unhelpful. Could not answer any technical questions and refused to discuss the issues...he told me to talk to the dealer. This guy needs to go live under a rock and never be allowed to insult customers again. My dealer is a friend whose people are doing everything possible to resolve and correct the issues...but...they are at the mercy of Hyundai Techs who seem to not be able to find the root causes of my issues. The dealer is holding up their end of the deal but Hyundai is not in my opinion. ARE YOU LISTENING HYUNDAI??
I was considering a 2013 R Spec....but not now. I am done after being insulted by this regional service moron. Simply no excuse.
Dear god man, how long have they had the car?We shall see...supposed to get the car back tomorrow 16-Dec-2011. The dealer guys want to drive it for a day or so to verify if it is OK or not.
Dear god man, how long have they had the car?
Interesting, I am afraid I will end up with the same issue. I have a great recording of the noise now. Took it into the dealer and they listened to it. They said it is becomming more common in the Technical reports they use. The final solution so far is they have said there is a new Oil filter out with a valve to prevent bleed down of the oil line. We did a oil change and will see. They also sayt it is neccessary to chang the oil every 3750 miles; the Manual says 7500. They keep it for about 1/2 week and said they couldn't duplicate the issue. I will see what happens, if the problem persist I think they are going to have to do something for me. I have had it in the shop twice now.
"SCOTT: Universal averages show typical wear levels for Hyundai's 4.6L V-8 engine after about 3,500 miles
on the oil. You ran your oil just 2,500 miles and everything looks very good in this report. We liked your note
stating that drive your car "pretty darn hard". Hard use can cause a bit of extra wear that is mainly found at
iron (from steel parts). Iron wear also increases with oil use, so your iron was a touch above average for
2,500 miles of use, but not enough to suggest you should stop having fun in your Genesis! Your engine is
looking very good at 19,500 miles. Cool car!"
All together since 25-Nov-2011. Yes I have had a loaner. Go back to my previous posts for the history on this deal. The Hyundai regional service guy is simply a moron.
The dealer is a friend...so after this is done and the dust settles a bit...I am going to request a replacement Genesis....not just an engine. We shall see...stay tuned.
Update No 2
The car has been in the shop for 24 days now. They have replaced the oil sensor, cam sensor, camshaft(s) and now they are replacing lifters.
There is no end in sight. While I loved the car, I have now lost all confidence in Hyundai and my car.
In all of my prior years of owning BMW, Audi, Mercedes and Lexus, my car had never been in the shop even overnight before.
That’s all good. I bet it was the fuse rupturing (with 700V DC at virtually unlimited current into a sudden dead short!) that created the smoke and smell. Also I believe the fuse is external to an otherwise fully sealed ICCU box.They got back to me today confirming that it was indeed the ICCU as well as a fuse that will be replaced under warranty. Hopefully this replacement goes smoothly, my new 12V is okay, and this can be put in the past. I will ask about what part number they replaced it with when I pick up the car.
When my 2023 ICCU blew, they replaced it with the same model number ending in 1XCA0. Starting with the 2024 model they begin using the newer ICCU 1XCA0A. I don't beleive that I've heard of any GV60 ICCU's going bad on the models 2024 and forward?Okay so I got my vehicle back. Here's the diagnosis:
- FOUND PA19096 DC/DC CONVERTER INPUT VOLTAGE SENSOR FAILURE (I think this is a typo for P1A9096)
- FOUND ICCU SHOWING SIGNS OF OVER-HEATING AND HAS LIKELY FAILED INTERNALLY UNDER SEALED COVERINGS
- REMOVED AND PERFORMED INTERNAL RESISTANCE TEST OF FUSE, FOUND FUSE BLOWN, OL RESULT ON DVOM
- REMOVED AND REPLACED ICCU AND HIGH VOLTAGE FUSE
The replacement part is coded as "36400-1XCA0A" which is different than the original I found online for my 2023 MY ("36400-1XCA0", missing trailing A). They also replaced the HV fuse and all work was done under warranty (thank you Genesis Canada).
Other than the hardware failure itself, the experience from Genesis Roadside through to the Genesis dealership was super nice. Took about 1 week end-to-end, failure was on a Sunday so Monday to Monday (I picked it up Tuesday morning).
I’m betting this is @Armeca59 ’s problem. The two step sequence is critical.you must push the lock button on the key fob first ....and then within a few seconds, push and hold the start button. You must push the lock button even if our car is already locked.
Makes sense. Reminds me of a situation some years back when a person let their grandson play with the key ring and later found their car running. Things like that introduces safety features and limited run times.I’m betting this is @Armeca59 ’s problem. The two step sequence is critical.
As with any insurance or warranty, you need to read the fine print rather than assume. At the end of the day, the only thing that matters is the actual wording in your coverage.I am purchasing from CarMax and I know their MaxCare warranty typically covers mods which came with the car so they would have to prove I did the mods I assume?
My 340i had a modified front end which wasn’t installed correctly and killed both headlights from moisture getting into the light casings and they covered it no questions asked.
Didn’t even charge me the deductible.
good point I'll definitely give them a call before I make any purchases.If you want to be safe, I'd call a dealer and speak to their service manager about Genesis/Hyundai's stated position on mod's. I don't know if it's written in any of the documentation we get. I would also ask about any specific mod's you had in mind and if the dealer has any discretion.
I come from an Audi background. Audi had clear guidance for dealers with wide ranging restrictions on mods. They were required to add a flag to the VIN if any restricted mods were found and this "TD1 flag" would stay with the car. Lot's of guy's had warranty work excluded. Some dealers however were mod friendly and would make certain exceptions.
The idea that an intake or exhaust mod might not be related to a particular engine issue would make no difference...warranty denied. Given the potential for expensive warranty work to be denied, I would not just rely on a few forum comments.
You should be OK with this issue. Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act of 1975 protects you in many cases. If the modification caused the problem, yes, but putting in a different air intake should not affect headlight problems.Hi all, I'm experiencing the issue with my G70 that is systemic across their fleet models 2015-2024 (at least) of the ultrasonic weld and/or mounting screws on the headlights causing a major water leak. I'm about to take my car into the dealer and currently had made the following mods to the vehicle: Afe Twin Takeda cold air intakes, JB4, 2 step colder plugs, BMS oil catch can, TIAL BOV (Blow Off Valve), under-glow, and a Skar sound system. I am also concerned about the 'mods' being a point that the dealership attempts to dismiss the claim. I have pictures of the water leak, pictures of cracks from the mounting screws being factory over-torqued, a video of the front-end being perfectly aligned with the rest of the bottom, plenty of clearance (zero contact) between the headlight assembly and modded parts, the actual TSB (Tech Service Bulletin) covering the issue, diagnosis, and when warranty covers it. I'm prepared to argue and fight the good fight, but I'm hoping I don't have too. I have scoured online forums, like this, and noticed it's a mixed bag as far as if you get it or if you have to fight (even with modding). Does anyone have any advice they could throw my way?
Hello GenesisOwners!
I came into my Genesis last August with 100K miles on her and she's a blast. As with all my vehicles I try and get a hold of the service manual so I can work on them with a semblance of knowing what I'm doing. Combing through these forums I found some dead links for the 2009/2010 service manual. I was wondering if anyone had been lucky enough to grab a copy of it while it was available and could send me/post the manual again? I looked through the 2009 manual that OneFunGenesis posted to his dropbox but I fear that the differences between the 2009 and 2010 are too much. I'm specifically trying to do some electrical work. Much appreciated fellers
Zach
Go back through this forum and you will see where all of them have been shared.i have been searching for the 2009 manual forever! have you got one more in your hat? [email protected]
Hello, hoping you can hook me up with a 2012 4.6 manual. Much appreciated. [email protected]If you send me a message or email with your email address I can arrange for a 2010 4.6 service manual to magically appear.
Yep, nobody actually reads this thread...Hello, hoping you can hook me up with a 2012 4.6 manual. Much appreciated. [email protected]
Just got a call and email with video showing issues. The video shows the voltage measured at the electrical connections to be as expected in the service manual. They are quoting him $8,000 to replace the "MOTOR DRIVEN POWER STEERING MODULE". The car is only worth $9000 sold to an individual in great condition, and much less if traded in. It doesn't make sense to replace the steering module at this price.My first stab at it would be to disconnect the electrical connections related to the unit and inspect for corrosion. Clean them up with some de-ox spray and maybe put a little dielectric grease on the seals on the connectors and then re-mate them. See if that makes any difference with the issue. Are the under-covers still installed? I've heard of problems developing with the steering when the undercover is left off.