100k mile club?

[mtrot]

109,000 miles now on my 2012 4.6. It runs pretty well, but I really want to install new plugs myself since they are rated to 105,000 miles. For anyone who has replaced the plugs at ~105,000 miles, did it make much difference in performance? I'm just a bit apprehensive about being able to do it properly, as well as finding the best plugs for it, as the OEM plugs are no longer made.

I did take it out Saturday night and taught some lessons to some of the local hot rod pickup truck drivers on the main drag out of town, for some stop light take off action!

 

[mtrot]

2012 Non R-Spec 5.0 with 102,105, runs great. Up until about 2 months ago, I was planning on trading it in for a 14 RSpec with super low mileage, but the dealer was an a*****e and tried to low-ball me. Even more recently, I've noticed that the trans occasionally shifts a bit hard on the 1~2 and the 4~5 upshift when driving very conservatively. (under very mild acceleration) I had the trans flushed/filled at the dealership, but it occasionally still shifts a bit hard. Under heavier throttle it will shift normal.
I've been reading about other owners that have reported tranny issues/subsequent replacement and I must admit that I'm a bit worried since the car is now out of warranty. Either way, I plan on keeping the car as long as it remains reliable. It's been an absolute blast to drive and quite possibly one of the most under-estimated sedans out there.

Dang, the non R-Spec 5.0 was exactly what I was looking for back in 2013, but they are so rare to find that I went with the great deal I found on my 2012 4.6.

 

[Paul]

Dang, the non R-Spec 5.0 was exactly what I was looking for back in 2013, but they are so rare to find that I went with the great deal I found on my 2012 4.6.

That's kind of one of the reasons that I'd like to hang on to it. Since I've decided that I'm going to have it for a few more years, I splurged a bit in the past couple weeks and bought a few mods for it. This is the longest that any car that I've owned has remained stock, and its time to have some fun with it.

 

[ROInRaleigh]

109,000 miles now on my 2012 4.6. It runs pretty well, but I really want to install new plugs myself since they are rated to 105,000 miles. For anyone who has replaced the plugs at ~105,000 miles, did it make much difference in performance? I'm just a bit apprehensive about being able to do it properly, as well as finding the best plugs for it, as the OEM plugs are no longer made.

113K on my 2012 3.8. Looking for the same info Mtrot. There are no videos on YouTube that I could find. On the 3.8, the driver's side plugs look reasonably accessible but passenger side is going to require removing a few things and I would really love to see some pics or vids of someone who has already been there and done that!

 

[Paul]

113K on my 2012 3.8. Looking for the same info Mtrot. There are no videos on YouTube that I could find. On the 3.8, the driver's side plugs look reasonably accessible but passenger side is going to require removing a few things and I would really love to see some pics or vids of someone who has already been there and done that!

Plugs shouldn't be too bad too change.. If you've ever done plugs on an F-body, or even a 1st Gen Xterra you know the pain...
Denso and NGK both make an iridium plug, which is what the V-6 and 5.0 call for. Be prepared to spend anywhere between $8-20/plug depending on what brand and style you buy.

 

[Audio]

109,000 miles now on my 2012 4.6. It runs pretty well, but I really want to install new plugs myself since they are rated to 105,000 miles. For anyone who has replaced the plugs at ~105,000 miles, did it make much difference in performance? I'm just a bit apprehensive about being able to do it properly, as well as finding the best plugs for it, as the OEM plugs are no longer made.

I did take it out Saturday night and taught some lessons to some of the local hot rod pickup truck drivers on the main drag out of town, for some stop light take off action!

I've been far deeper than just plugs, so my idea of "easy" is going to be a little skewed, but I will say I distinctly recall the plugs not being too hard to get to on either side.

I will take a peek in my engine bay some time and see if it sparks(no pun intended), my memory. But I think once you've disconnected the wiring connectors from each coil, there is a single bolt(8mm? 10mm?) that holds the coil. They should pull off with minimal force, and the plugs, again if i remember right, should be easily gotten with a spark plug socket on a 12" extension. I think I used a wobble head extension to give myself a better angle but I am quite sure a straight extension should work.

 

[ROInRaleigh]

Plugs shouldn't be too bad too change.. If you've ever done plugs on an F-body, or even a 1st Gen Xterra you know the pain...
Denso and NGK both make an iridium plug, which is what the V-6 and 5.0 call for. Be prepared to spend anywhere between $8-20/plug depending on what brand and style you buy.

My main concern is that it appears that the air intake has to come off for the passenger side access. I've done a fair amt of work in the past on cars, but am a little wary about digging into this one without some guidance! Hate to spend the $300 that my shop wants to do it though ($120 parts + $180 labor).

 

[Audio]

Again, I could be mis-remembering because I ended up disassembling most of the engine and ultimately completely replacing it, but you should not need to take off the intake manifold to do the passenger side plugs at all. The intake manifold sits between the heads with nothing spewing over top of them. If you mean the intake tube/filter box, that is quite easy to remove and reinstall. If need be, I can take a few pics as a walk through on how to do so.

 

[ROInRaleigh]

The intake manifold sits between the heads with nothing spewing over top of them. If you mean the intake tube/filter box, that is quite easy to remove and reinstall. If need be, I can take a few pics as a walk through on how to do so.

if you could do that, I would surely appreciate it!

 

[Audio]

if you could do that, I would surely appreciate it!

I'll try to get around to that tonight. I have a couple plastic cover pieces I need to finish installing since the engine swap anyway.

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[ROInRaleigh]

I'll try to get around to that tonight. I have a couple plastic cover pieces I need to finish installing since the engine swap anyway.

If that's too much trouble, let me know and I'll PM you my cell # and you could do a quick Facetime vid if it's easier. Although maybe that would not be as informative for the rest of the group!

 

[Audio]

Here is the video. It's hot out today, so deal with my pasty fat arms lol. Also, keep in mind, the plastic trim piece I mention in the video will have a bunch more clips holding it in, I literally had a single one that was not damaged or lost so I just set the plastic pieces in place for demonstration. I also have a cold so deal with the voice and sniffling lol.

 

[ROInRaleigh]

Great video @Audio - unfortunately I have the 3.8L (v6) engine. It's set up quite differently with respect to access. I'm going to try to take a closer look in the next day or so and maybe post a vid showing what I think is the challenge. That engine looks much easier to get to than the 3 passenger side plugs on the 3.8L. I really appreciate your post though and I am sure it will help others besides me!

 

[Audio]

Is this what the V6 looks like under the engine cover?

If so, it should be very similar. From the looks of it, you should be able to pop the tabs on the air box cover, the same type of clamp holing the intake tube to the air box cover, and remove just the cover.

From there some pliers for that hose clamp on the small hose at the end of the intake tube, slide it down the hose, the hose should wiggle free from the intake tube.

It looks like there is no MAF anywhere on the intake tube itself, so it should just be another hose clamp with a 10MM screw on the end of the intake tube where it attaches to the throttle body.

I definitely think it would be an easy job to remove that stuff, and I don't even think the bottom half of the air box would need to come out at all.

 

[rpetty458]

I haven't posted much and am not sure how to post in this thread as a new post and not a reply. That being said, I have a 2012 non Rspec 5.0. It has 153,000 miles. Has had some issues with hard shifting, but it is hit and miss. Lately it has been using more oil. Other that that, no problems.

 

[Paul]

@ rpetty, at approximately what mileage did your car start shifting hard? Mine started at around 98k and it's very hit or miss. It will go a few days shifting perfect and then bang 2nd and 4th all day long. There is really no ryhme or reason. It's more of a mild annoyance than anything.

 

[rpetty458]

@ rpetty, at approximately what mileage did your car start shifting hard? Mine started at around 98k and it's very hit or miss. It will go a few days shifting perfect and then bang 2nd and 4th all day long. There is really no ryhme or reason. It's more of a mild annoyance than anything.

I don't remember for sure, but I'm thinking 70-80k. I took it to the dealer and they couldn't find anything, no computer code, wasn't happening when they drove it. With mine, it is more than a mild annoyance at times. There are times when it is such a hard shift that I look in the rear view mirror to make sure I wasn't rear ended.

 

[ROInRaleigh]

Is this what the V6 looks like under the engine cover?

If so, it should be very similar. From the looks of it, you should be able to pop the tabs on the air box cover, the same type of clamp holing the intake tube to the air box cover, and remove just the cover.

Yep, that's the v6 basically. I'm going to work on getting some video or close up pics this weekend. Stay tuned!

 

[ROInRaleigh]

I don't remember for sure, but I'm thinking 70-80k. I took it to the dealer and they couldn't find anything, no computer code, wasn't happening when they drove it. With mine, it is more than a mild annoyance at times. There are times when it is such a hard shift that I look in the rear view mirror to make sure I wasn't rear ended.

Similar to what lots of folks have had w/ the 2012 xmission. My mechanic says it is a known issue with valve body quality in the xmission. My problem didn't start until sometime > 100K, which was post warranty. If you still have warranty coverage, get it documented by the dealer and you can probably make a case for new xmission if it gets worse even if you are > 100K at that point.

I found that I could almost make it happen by driving very easily through the 1 --> 2 shift, then just as the 2 --> 3 shift happens, ease up on gas a little bit (e.g. unload the xmission synchronizer) and it would almost certainly see a higher RPM 'slip' as it hunts for 3rd gear. If you had that same condition occur while loaded, that is where the 'bang' and the hard shift comes into play. Try it - you may be able to get good enough to demo it to the dealership. I really wish my problem had started at < 100K. Hyundai knows about it for sure, but once you hit 100K all bets are off!

 

[fungo45]

112,000 on my 2009 3.8
Still running like a champ.
Looking to get another year out of it for me until my son is old enough to drive. Then I'll get a new Genesis!